Very handy video, thank you :) The builder they recommended let me down so I'm building it myself as it seems easy enough. Only trouble is while waiting, it was outside for six weeks getting very wet which made it difficult to assemble due to swelling, got there in the end though. Good value garage/workshop for the money
Thanks very much you gave more information than the people who would construct my one bedroom cabin in my garden in Ireland. I would consider any more information from you as valuable. I’ve worked construction all my life so it’s the finished product I’m interested in. Thank you kindest regards from Ireland. May you be dead an hour before the devil knows your dead.
This video pertaining to recommendations and suggestions on how to assemble log cabin are quite challenging. It is such a useful details that I have learned through watching this post. Thank you!
This video on log cabin assembly is very informative. It is very simple and in fact, economical. I admire your endeavor on showing your knowledge and skills on doing these. Congratulations for the job well done!
Extending your great endeavor has a great learning to be pondered after all! I truly appreciate your expertise on creating such beautiful log cabin. You did a great job!
Does the roof need treating before attaching the shingles? Do the assembley team do this if paying for assembley? Also, you say to use screws for the floorboards but show the guy using nails. Which is it?
I can guarantee if you roof in this fashion you'll be replacing the entire roof in about 5 years after water ingress behind the facia boards soaks back up the roof timbers under the shingles and rots the roof completely. The facia can't protect the end of the roof boards and the back of the facia can't be retreated once it's in place. I've replaced several log cabin roofs that were originally done in this fashion and the status of them is always the same, rotting facia from water trapped behind it and rooting roof boards from the trapped water soaking back into the boards via their exposed ends. Before any shingles are put on the entire roof should be wrapped in felt and 4*2 added on all edges so the felt can be wrapped around it to create a drip edge stopping water ingress. There are loads of good instructional videos on how to correctly felt roofs, particularly on how to felt corners correctly. The shingles can then be applied over the felt. On a side note rotting wood causes spores (most common coniophora puteana) which is nasty crap to enhale.
Assuming its not too late, if you do order one speak to someone who knows how to put them up properly before you begin assembly. They can point out all the extra bits you should be doing that never come with the instructions like protecting the cabin from damp in the ground, building above the flood line, roofing and insulating correctly. Then you'll have a chance at having a cabin that will outlive you.
Easy, nope, but they do come apart if need be. I had one log that was mis-cut (the plunge depth was 3cm instead of 4cm on the joint and I had to remove that log to cut the depth 1cm deeper (I believe it is an automated process for the most part on the log cutting, so if a bit of wood got stuck in the jig, it would make it not cut correctly. That being said, there's hundreds of parts in my kit and only one mis-cut that wasn't a hard fix with a sharp chisel and a circular saw. And yes, you can take the logs apart (the slower, the better on the small logs with a wooden wedge about 2m wide, driven into each seam at the ends of the log you want to remove. NOW the slowest part would be repeating this step for ALL logs. And it's likely you removed the labels upon assembly, so if you're taking several layers off or removing them to a new site. Also note, the bottom wood bearer IS pressure treated, but also screwed to the concrete, so that and the first layer of logs are screwed to that, so if you want to take one down, it's a slow process to get down to the bottom log while labelling everything. Also note, the roof will be screwed/nailed down. and if you chose a wooden floor, it would require taking that up too.
horse rider The building will settle etc and reduced the gap but not to zero. You need a gap there so that the weight of the building is not carried by the window frame it could start compressing the windows and they would be come difficult to open. You just don’t want the gap extending outside the trims
I think rotting/moulding parts within short period of time will be a main problem here. But who cares? Thus I would name the movie "how not to build a wooden structure cabin/house". I saw houses in Eastern Europe (Lithuania, Russia) which were 50-70 years old and the logs were in perfect condition (made of quality wood, preserved with anti-rot substances). Here in the UK the quantity matters more then the quality, so the built wooden houses/cabins look more like doolhouses.
Johnny English no Iv had one of these in the garden for 15 years. Just paint and treet it alot better than mobile home. Some people just put them in stupid places and end up with rot on them due to not bothering to treat them.
@@davidskeeterskeeter1835 I do know, I've seen it first hand so Johnny is correct. Regarding the response to treat the wood frequently, that doesn't help the areas you can't reach after it's built, like the back of the facia boards or the floor joists that's are soaking in all the lovely damp from the ground. People then wonder why they have to walk like sailors inside their cabins.
ravenlorans traditional log cabins were never treated either. I've seen them built from raw un skinned logs before. Every 5 years is exactly regular is it.
Log cabin? I guess in Europe they have a different definition of a "log cabin" from the US.This is a milled lumber frame structure to me. I'm not knocking this product I can see with a proper foundation and treatment/painting where this would be perfect as a back yard/garden structure... or a little weekend cabin in the woods.
paul s The building will settle etc and reduced the gap but not to zero. You need a gap there so that the weight of the building is not carried by the window frame it could start compressing the windows and they would be come difficult to open. You just don’t want the gap extending outside the trims
