I made a waste valve with 2" coupling and 2x1" boozing, one of the boozing is inverted ang welded. I install a reducer from 1" to 1/2 inch for plunger rod. The plunger is made of hard rubber(truck tyre) around a inch thick with stud bolt as a rod. It can adjust to the desired cycle of the pump. I learned that it is better to have a slower cycle if the delivery distance is longer and higher vertical to lift.
Thanks for the informative inovation...this well help plenty of population which has scarce water supply...tnx again idol...godbless...Stay safe always
You're the first one here to put emphasis on the little air hole below the pressure tank valve to replenish the air. Other posters here on youtube state that you need a bladder tank, a pool noodle or another elastic and compressible device to prevent losing the pressure in the tank. Keeping in mind that hydraulic ram pumps were invented in 1796 and successfully worked for more than 200 years without a bladder tank, this is the crucial element to make the pump almost maintenance free. My grandpa used an already old one some fourty years ago to deliver water to his garden. My cousin, who inherited it, said it is still working. In Swabia those pumps are nicknamed 'the diligent cobbler' due to their never-ceasing knocking sound.
@@frenchriverspringsmakes sens to me. I'm a plumber, and if i understand correctly, it just makes it so you always have air and thus, pressure in the tank? Because I imagine if the pressure chamber were to fill up completely, the pump would stop functionning?
Great demonstration of a ram pump on how to build it and how it works. No false claims only advice on what to alter to give possibly a better performance
your is THE best I have seen so far. I have not seen that crucial 1/16 hole under check valve sending water to Chamber on other YOU TUBE Presentation. Air being replenished in Chamber make the whole thing operate smoothly and work right. 40 years ago I did one of these for final practical Engineering project. I had to Machin the valve with adjustable length and weight. What you are doing is much better ; calibrating the SPRING. Try three different spring and a 5 gallon Bucket at the end of hose and measure the time; see which spring fills the bucket sooner. These Ram pumps are great for hilly areas with running water at lower levels. Depending on amount of water, one can put 4 of them next to each other. Great job, I hope everybody follow your design and read my comment. greetings from California , best wishes.
Love this ram pump design. Seems simpler than others I have seen. I would love to get one setup and have a pressure nozzle on it, to push a small water turbine to charge a battery bank and be off grid. Keep up the great work. - Danny
@@LandtoHouse what to pass through the turbine? Yeah makes sense. what you could is just have both set up next to each other, run one pipe for the ram pump and another for the wires to run from the turbine up to the charging station.
@@BrassBashers I had a simple 1-1/4" ram pump setup nozzled down to a strong stream of water. I then just used a treadmill motor with homemade water wheel to make like 4v. Haha
The Hole is allowing a momentary vacuum break, and the "pressure tank" which is actually an expansion tank. Like what is on a deep well pump. Very neat idea using the reversed spring on the one way valve. Will try to build one like this. Thanks.
Finally! Somebody answered the question we’ve all been wondering. I though maybe it was to keep the pressure tank from being water logged. Or am I still missing something?
At about eight and a half minutes into your video you were talking about the heart beat. The optimal number of beats per minute will depend on every individual's unique setup. For my setup, about sixty beats per minute turned out to be just about perfect. A problem with my setup is the available water in my spring can be vary seasonally. During times when my creek doesn't have as much water in it, a faster number of beats per minute means less water wasted through the pump so my dam is less likely to run out of water. My ram pump has an adjustable stroke length on the valve and also some big fat washers for weights which can be to added or removed, as well as changing to stronger or weaker springs. I had to use a stopwatch and a count the number of beats per minute and keep measuring the pumped volume with a bucket and stopwatch at the other end. I made a graph of the performance curve and then settled on a number of beats per minute which conserved my dam water and still resulted in a pretty good volume of water delivered to my tank. For you it looks like you have an ample water supply for the size ram pump you made so maybe the speed of the pump will be less critical for your setup. Nice video, thank you for sharing it, it's always nice to see other people's ideas. You have a great setup, congratulations.
After reading your comment, that is exactly what you need to do! (I did the same thing) after that it's a matter of water management at your holding tank !
Usually the hole in the pipe has a tiny SS cotter pin in it or a piece of copper wire bent on both ends to restrict flow. I am building a ram with a schrader valve - tire valve, but made for old style water well tanks as an air entrance valve - it has no spring and it is stainless steel. Available at good well supply stores, but getting out dated. Basically a tiny check valve - lets air in and water not out. Still you can't beat a simple hole - but the wire makes it self cleaning.
If there is water in a ditch without flow, can you use a ram pump to send water? Or it is necessary to have flow in order to work? What if the black tank was already filled with water at the beginning?
It would have a higher delivery rate, and would have started much quicker, if you hadn't lifted the pipe coming from the spring. Hydraulic rams don't depend on pressure on the inlet side in order to work, they depend on the SPEED of the incoming water. Flowing water possesses kinetic energy. If you halve the flow rate of the water, the kinetic energy drops to a quarter of what it was - and there's a drastic reduction in the flow rate out of the ram through the delivery pipe. When you lifted up that spring water pipe, the flow rate dropped very sharply - and there's the problem. The flow rate has to reach a critical speed in order to snap the waste valve shut, and cause the pressure spike which opens the delivery valve; the more you interfere with the free flow of input water, the longer it takes for it to reach enough speed to snap the waste valve shut, and the more water you waste out of the waste valve. Reversing that spring in the waste valve made it worse, because the the spring water not only has to overcome the weight of the waste valve to shut it - it also has to overcome the spring pressure as well. Those two factors significantly reduce the efficiency of the set up, and that's a real pity. I'm sure that if you turn that spring water pipe down to where it was to start with, take the spring out of the waste valve, and then connect your hydraulic ram in the vertical position again, you'll see a heck of a difference. HTH
His ram obviously works, but does have problems if lifting to a greater height. I built a ram pump in 1978 and used it for 25 years lifting water 320 feet. For high lifting you must use STEEL Drive pipe and steel delivery pipe first 250 feet. Also for lift above 60 feet pump must be all metal. ( l have watched metal freon tank explode and fly over 100 feet high) My ram had 20 feet fall from water resavore through 1 1/2 inch drive pipe then union conecter to pump valve to steel pressure tank is 1 1/2 CLATON MARK one way check valve. Tank is 3 inch steel pipe. My clacker valve 1 1/2 inch SWING CHECK VALVE ( very loud). My delivery pipe is 3/4 inch steel water pipe to 4000 gal water tank. I got 4800 gallons every 24 hours.( approx 1 1/2 gal per min).
I have had mine in operation for over 3 years, 1 in. stainless with 30 ft galvanized drive line from a stand pipe. My fall is apx. 12-15 ft. Im pumping apx. 80 ft in elevation at 200 GPD. I do have to empty the pressure vessel (4in pvc) on occasion when I see it becoming week.
Lay the delivery pipe back down and set the ram pump back on in vertical position with the delivery lying down as it was? If you do that you wouldn’t have to wait for water level to rise? I’m just asking...
thanks for the detail other instructions were missing. particularly showing that you can change the checkvalve and showing where you added the airhole. many people dont even understand that the air dissolve in the water.
Thank you so much for your advice on the check files I just modified them You know one could Use a bicycle pump to run air hundreds of feet down to the accumulator and keep it full of air
I have several questions. 1- Can you tell what should be the ratio of the diameter of the outlet pipe to the inlet? 2- There are some other types of check valves that do not have a spring and have a hinge and pivot on one side, and based on their weight, the valve opens and closes, and they do not need a base in the middle of the valve to install the door of valve. Doesn't the middle diagonal bar of the valve make resistance against water? What is their disadvantage compared to this type? thanks
I noticed that you are losing water at your reducer on your 3 or 4" elbow this should be sealed tight so you don't lose any kind of air or water pressure that you are building up this may help you push more water through your garden hose.
That ram pump is beautiful! The pope should fly down and bless it! Lol! Some ppl put a bicycle tube fillled up inside the pressure reservoir (air tank). Great job!
The purpose of the bicycle tube inside the air pressure reservoir is to isolate air from the water. Without it the air will slowly dissolve in the water creating a vacuum that reduce the pressure and effectiveness of the pump. I might be wrong, but his little hole in the check valve might serve the same purpose as the bicycle tube as it appear to replenish the air in the pressure reservoir with bursts of fresh air, so no problem with some of it dissolving in the water. I could be totally off the mark with that though....
What if you used the valve from a bicycle tube in that little hole, so that it acted as a one-way valve for taking air in? Would it result in better air pressure or would the difference be marginal? I've successfully used tubeless presta valves from the local bike store as one way air valves in a few projects before.
Usually the hole in the pipe has a tiny SS cotter pin in it or a piece of copper wire bent on both ends to restrict flow. I am building a ram with a schrader valve - tire valve, but made for old style water well tanks as an air entrance valve - it has no spring and it is stainless steel. Available at good well supply store, but getting out dated. Basically a tiny check valve - lets air in and water not out.
@@TheBryce98 There is no need to put check valve as snifter, water release only happen when delivery valve is closed and suck air when delivery valve is open, thus notbing affecting the pressure of the chamber at all. Snifter release water at a fraction of second before waste valve is open, we can say it dump water at the same time with waste valve, so no need to concern. Thanks.
There is something funny about all ram pump videos. They show the output discharge of water just for a fraction of a second just like the first appearance of poltergeist.
what happens if you just hook up the garden hose to the existing pipe? it will probably work fine? 20 feet... are you planning on going higher? do you have any plans to improve setup?
Thank you very much for your intention, but with all respect and admiration for your work, I would like to recommend that you divide the content into two videos so that you can give details about the measurements of the pieces that are used. By the way, in normal video speed.
You also do not need to add a "snifter" hole if you use a commercial pressure tank as that snifter hole costs you a lot of water being pumped over time....been there done that to....
Is there a way to insert a ballon filled with air inside big black pipe? maybe at construction stage? if the cap is threaded then you can remove the ballon if you suspect air pressure loss. just throwing ideas
Good idea,but I would be concerned about not enough water being moved to supply a generator with a reasonable out put. It could be used as a way to fill a back up water supply tower, to feed the house's supply should the power go out
if you have flowing water, you'll just lose some energy to the pump's inefficiency. so you're probably better off if you just put the generator directly on the water source.
@@frenchriversprings Same thing goes your way Gilbert....I won`t be around till Spring I think....stay away from the big city....don`t catch the covid....CHEERS
@@frenchriversprings gov will have all heads for this tech thay teach us that we always have loss but never talk about the converted gain we can make from eletromagnets if u convert all the wast thermal energy around you u can use it universally as energy u need a true sine wave bipolar like the power comp dose a true pure sinewave like a grid tie inverter once the signal is made the system will turn on and consume wast thermal energy from the environment and space around you... there is free energy but it comes from Universal thermal loss and converted into a gain. so a pole Transformer and a microwave Transformer have a common between each other u can take 2 microwave Transformer provide a pure sine wave grid tie inverter to it or a true bipolar sinewave that inter acts with nature in a perfect spherical motion like a flower of life.. if ur home provides this use it as a Source signal then u can simply stack the Transformers on top of eachother in correct fasion and note that the 1 wire on the Transformer must stay connected and the other disconnected your only useing 1 wire on the hi side .. so test ur self 2 microwave transformer stacked on top of eachother same face sides. one side 120 to the wall and the other 120 side to what u want to power and useing the Transformer just the way it came out the microwave with the wire attached causes the energy in its perfect spherical motion to converted wast thermal energy to amp for u hot to cold in to out... should look a bit nuts with u use a form of wireless energy but its interacting with the environment...this is my work a compilation of Otis car. Tesla. and many other very smart people nowadays i think i found the gate source and drainif this gets out to much that it works the power comp and mib will have our headsdont do this at home warning high voltage yet i cant stop u lol DO NOT TOCH THE CORES OR THE WIRES OK u will die make sure u dont touch the core if the hi wire is mounted to it u dont have to mount the hi on the core if u dont want u connect the 1 hi wire to the same side hi on the other transformer then the core should besafe to handle if nessary grab your multimeter and prove me wrong thats what u do i have my whole home on this and u can take one of the lows side out the wall and hook it up to other stuff and power it for verry little amp makeing nature convert and pumping latent heat effect into the device. and u can have a microwave hi volt cap in between the hi side and make a system that powers its self u can flip the switch on ur breaker and the room stays on up to 2kva with both lows in the wall this is the zero point that was taken from us...
@@frenchriversprings gov will have all heads for this tech thay teach us that we always have loss but never talk about the converted gain we can make from eletromagnets if u convert all the wast thermal energy around you u can use it universally as energy u need a true sine wave bipolar like the power comp dose a true pure sinewave like a grid tie inverter once the signal is made the system will turn on and consume wast thermal energy from the environment and space around you... there is free energy but it comes from Universal thermal loss and converted into a gain. so a pole Transformer and a microwave Transformer have a common between each other u can take 2 microwave Transformer provide a pure sine wave grid tie inverter to it or a true bipolar sinewave that inter acts with nature in a perfect spherical motion like a flower of life.. if ur home provides this use it as a Source signal then u can simply stack the Transformers on top of eachother in correct fasion and note that the 1 wire on the Transformer must stay connected and the other disconnected your only useing 1 wire on the hi side .. so test ur self 2 microwave transformer stacked on top of eachother same face sides. one side 120 to the wall and the other 120 side to what u want to power and useing the Transformer just the way it came out the microwave with the wire attached causes the energy in its perfect spherical motion to converted wast thermal energy to amp for u hot to cold in to out... should look a bit nuts with u use a form of wireless energy but its interacting with the environment...this is my work a compilation of Otis car. Tesla. and many other very smart people nowadays i think i found the gate source and drainif this gets out to much that it works the power comp and mib will have our headsdont do this at home warning high voltage yet i cant stop u lol DO NOT TOCH THE CORES OR THE WIRES OK u will die make sure u dont touch the core if the hi wire is mounted to it u dont have to mount the hi on the core if u dont want u connect the 1 hi wire to the same side hi on the other transformer then the core should besafe to handle if nessary grab your multimeter and prove me wrong thats what u do i have my whole home on this and u can take one of the lows side out the wall and hook it up to other stuff and power it for verry little amp makeing nature convert and pumping latent heat effect into the device. and u can have a microwave hi volt cap in between the hi side and make a system that powers its self u can flip the switch on ur breaker and the room stays on up to 2kva with both lows in the wall this is the zero point that was taken from us...
@@frenchriversprings gov will have all heads for this tech thay teach us that we always have loss but never talk about the converted gain we can make from eletromagnets if u convert all the wast thermal energy around you u can use it universally as energy u need a true sine wave bipolar like the power comp dose a true pure sinewave like a grid tie inverter once the signal is made the system will turn on and consume wast thermal energy from the environment and space around you... there is free energy but it comes from Universal thermal loss and converted into a gain. so a pole Transformer and a microwave Transformer have a common between each other u can take 2 microwave Transformer provide a pure sine wave grid tie inverter to it or a true bipolar sinewave that inter acts with nature in a perfect spherical motion like a flower of life.. if ur home provides this use it as a Source signal then u can simply stack the Transformers on top of eachother in correct fasion and note that the 1 wire on the Transformer must stay connected and the other disconnected your only useing 1 wire on the hi side .. so test ur self 2 microwave transformer stacked on top of eachother same face sides. one side 120 to the wall and the other 120 side to what u want to power and useing the Transformer just the way it came out the microwave with the wire attached causes the energy in its perfect spherical motion to converted wast thermal energy to amp for u hot to cold in to out... should look a bit nuts with u use a form of wireless energy but its interacting with the environment...this is my work a compilation of Otis car. Tesla. and many other very smart people nowadays i think i found the gate source and drainif this gets out to much that it works the power comp and mib will have our headsdont do this at home warning high voltage yet i cant stop u lol DO NOT TOCH THE CORES OR THE WIRES OK u will die make sure u dont touch the core if the hi wire is mounted to it u dont have to mount the hi on the core if u dont want u connect the 1 hi wire to the same side hi on the other transformer then the core should besafe to handle if nessary grab your multimeter and prove me wrong thats what u do i have my whole home on this and u can take one of the lows side out the wall and hook it up to other stuff and power it for verry little amp makeing nature convert and pumping latent heat effect into the device. and u can have a microwave hi volt cap in between the hi side and make a system that powers its self u can flip the switch on ur breaker and the room stays on up to 2kva with both lows in the wall this is the zero point that was taken from us...
Before i am wandering why did you take out the spring on your check valve, lately I realize that without removing a spring sometimes the ram pump is malfuctioning or stop,. I decided to remove the spring from my checkvalve of my ramp pump, it is much more better.
Yea, I have seen a lot of pumps made with stock valves with the spring load kept as is. But I guess when the pump is running, the water is doing the work of opening and closing, and the spring can just get in the way a bit. Either way will usually work I would guess, but you probably get a bit more flow without the spring, once you get it running. I think I would leave mine in if it was working good enough just because it would make priming easier to have that slight pressure for the water to work on.
I was having a issue with the same type of check valve here, but now i see it's because i started with the other design when everything is in line. I get good pressure and flow, but cant get the check valve to work. I also used a plastic check for the pressure tube. When I first set it up, it blew the pressure tube off the rubber reducer attached with hose clamps. I had to add 2 clamps to each end. Its like 30 or 40 psi!
why would the ram pump not work if you left the spring in the "driven" check valve? Can you recommend some guides that you used to get this design working? I'm facing the issue of "cycling" the two check valves to get the ram pump going. Hope you could help.
Now your talking Gilbert....that`s the way to go....no solar....no gas pump.....just do it the old way....that could probably water your garden with the sprinkler and even feed your fish pound.....dirty water for the activation and the clean river water on the push side.....you did a great job with this pump....did you now you can still buy the old ram Pumps the way the use to build then....when we meet we talk more about this.....CHEERS my friend
Why is it not possible to put this pump into a closed loop system and continually pump water to the top of a hydro generator for a positive yeilding electrical system?
You would need an awful lot of water to sustain that. It might be ok to run a generator for a few hours a day, but not sustained, and I don't think it is feasable on a commercial level. But, theoretically I guess you could. It would be ugly and noisy and you would either need a gazillion pumps or some huge ones.
It's an attempt at making a snifter... but not a very good one. You need a reed valve or similar so that it closes whent the water is pushing on it and opens to let a little air in to prevent water from displacing the air in the pressure tank. As also mentioned below it can help to put a check valve in the pipe going uphill to reduce back pressure.
This is going to depend a lot on what's available to you locally. Sizing will also depend on your water source and how high you are needing to pump the water.
Just wondering, but would a third loose check valve on the inlet pipe from the spring cause more water hammer allowing for a great volume to enter the accumulator tank above?
Nature is fascinating, and engineers ideas to use natures energy without adding new energy at all is even more fascinating - human spirit, thats what it's all about!
The hydrologic water ram was invented in the 1740s to blow up balloons in england technically speaking not any new technology. Just thought that may spark a bit of intrest in history
😊 third remark is the noise level it’s quite loud because the tube is not insulated and it’s only because of the valve underneath it that the black tube that the overpressure tube that are tube bushes should out and makes that noise and is there a solution to make it more ease to the ear 👂.
I did one with almost the same set up, but my waste valve isn't cycling. Any thoughts what could be the problem? Is there at least a minimum fall of water? I simulated it with a homemade water source placed 2-3 ft high with 8 meters flexible pipe connected to the system. Also, my pressure gauge is not reading anything. Initial thoughts: i think the inlet water velocity is too slow
some late information. as a result of the supply-side flow restriction the pump causes, , the (per-second) flow rate out of the source (at this point in the system) will be Reduced. cheers
😮 Do you put a garden hose to the point where you want to uplift the water to a higher level but the so much excess water in the other valve through the other valve I would also try if possible to capture that water to get also on a higher feel the plan is that possible do you think?
Great job for first time project. What is the local government and environmental protection agency have to say about these over 100k years inventions? Are they will soon making new law? Thanks for sharing video.
you already had pressure at that point, if you would of reduced down to the hose without all those valves you don't think you would of had flow at the end of the hose ?
