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Soooo... how did the heating work out? What kind of internal temps were you able to get when the outside temps got to around freezing or slightly below? Just curious. GREAT build video! Definitely gave some very useful tips for when I design mine. Thanks for sharing! 🤠
install 4 -5 hoops for more strength , install the lights on the bottom because heat goes up not down and last you need blanket ( bubble wrap or reg blanket ) for more heat at night
Heat rises but with that little cubic space it does not matter in the slightest. Plus the fact that my man is in southeast NC means its not really getting all that cold anyway. it's not engineering here it is gardening advice.
Zone 6b. BTW, I'd like to encourage people to always preface their comments with their growing zone, to help others understand what conditions are like in different growing zones.
@@westdavies my location and hardiness zone are at the bottom of the video description on all my videos. More detailed info is in the channel description.
I like that you did a shout out for James P because he does a lot of the same instructions, just like you, so there isn't much I don't misunderstand anything. You both are my goto gurus. 🌻
James' channel is great. It's one of my favorite gardening channels. I'm not a guru, please 😂 I'm just a guy that likes gardening more than most people, probably.
To make your greenhouse last longer use grey electrical conduits. They are UV stabilized. Also your greenhouse plastic will get brittle where it touches the pvc. Pvc off gasses and deteriorates the plastic. I wrapped the exterior surfaces of the pvc with 3” gorilla tape.
Zone 6b. Thanks for providing such detailed instructions! I was thinking about using old christmas lights and this provides good information on how. As mentioned in previous comments, I'll put mine down low in my greenhouse, where I'm setting up a solar panel to power grow lights and the christmas light 'heaters'.
I have watched several videos on constructing a covered hoop house! So far this has been the most informative and thorough explanation! Thank you so much!
Very good video. Step by step thorough explanation, material list. Did not feel rushed, making it easy to watch and understand. Excellent job! Thank you 😊
As a general rule you shouldn’t screw into the end grain as it’s weaker than cross grain. Over time that is where the grain will loosen and open up first and your hinges will be compromised. Corner bracing will give it a lot more strength and prevent any warping and wobble 😊👍🏽
I saw a big tomato plant wintered in a lightly heated greenhouse in Utah. Its canopy covered most of the greenhouse. After a trimming the tomato "tree" started to wilt. So it's important to keep its big size for moisture and life force though the branches may look straggling. It produced tomatoes in dead winter.
There are a few ways to stiffen the PVC pipe, if you like the idea it won't move much after the modifications even under heavy wind and snow loads. Basically you put rebar inside, cut it a little longer than the pipe piece to make up the distance through any connectors used. You also want the rebar to stick out the end of the pipe pieces to fit into holes in the base frame for a very tight fit. The rebar is rather cheap, so it comes down to if you want a flimsy frame, or a stiff one enough to spend a little more. A really clever person would also use connectors to link the rebar parts together for maximum stiffness through out the frame. In this method of construction the PVC pipe does little more than cover the rebar as a way to give it a smooth surface, so some folks use other types of tubing that is rated better for solar UV light exposure for a longer service life of a plastic greenhouse frame. Extreme greenhouse projects weld the rebar frame joints and cut the plastic tubing length wise so they can easily fit it over the rebar frame, cut to custom fit, and replace the plastic tubing as needed over the years. It is still important to use a system that prevents the plastic tubing from friction damaging the sheet plastic covering, which often comes down to some sort of low friction tape, or attaching the sheet plastic with double sided outdoor rated sticky tape, or glue. That way if one of the panels of the sheet plastic gets damaged, it is easy to replace it, rather than the entire covering. The same idea is used for geodesic frames made of many triangles of at least two different sizes.
Great video and presentation. Really appreciate that you took the time to put on the screen the exact name/size of parts used and posted links. Think this is something I could actually build myself with your tutorial!
What a good service you provide to show how to do this substantial improvement on ones garden. It took a significant amount of time. That was all free folks. He does have a great list of products that would be reliable. I hope to do this someday, but am not getting any younger, am 80 now, and wish all this info was available twenty years ago, I would be in a different place, figuretively and regionally.
I saw James' video how he made his hoop house over his raised bed, and at the time I thought that his conduit hoops could have been a little longer, as he had to really force them to bend into his conduit caps and I think he put a Lott of stress on those little caps!! You gave yourself a lot more bending room and they were not forced into your caps! Nice hoop house! Especially like the lights, must look fairyland like at night! God Bless!
I, too, thought he built his hoop house too low. It really is only for shorter greens. Granted, he is in a colder climate than I am, but I still think he should have gone higher. Mine is borderline too high, but I'm determined to try and grow tomatoes, so I had no choice. Thanks for watching!
Very good vid . Been in horticulture and greenhouse building now for 40+ years and your on the right tract. Have a helpful suggestion you may consider which is to build an additional hoop layer of 6” that would attach to your existing one. This extra 6” space WILL work wonders in heating efficiency. Don’t need to provide the specifics for it is quite clear you are very capable of figuring it out. Again your thorough attention to details not normally considered in other vids made this a pleasure to view. Even those who don’t know what a drill is could understand how to put it all together. Best of luck to you.
WOW, You gave me the answer I needed to heat my greenhouse!! Gee PLUS I COULD add A HOOP HOUSE like the one you built to put Veggies in that don't have room in my bigger Greenhouse. Thank you so much for teaching your skill to me.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. I plan on building a few more, but I will be using bug mesh on top of them so I can grow plants pest-free in my insect-ridden climate. It's not just for frost protection. You can even use shade cloth to shade your sensitive plants in summer.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes, we used Shade Cloth for our kale this last season. I put Straw Bales in my greenhouse and am seasoning them with nutrients and HEAVILY WETTING THEM after each addition. I will put my composted Soil in them and plant in them as well. As they breakdown they will create more heat in there as well. Got that idea from Old Farmers Almanac. I have 6 long 2string bales. 3 at each end.
You are such an amazing teacher. You will make someone a very happy spouse one day! Thanks for sharing your knowledge in an easy to follow, detailed way! Appreciate you!
I'm glad the videos are helpful! I don't feature Brittany much in my videos, but if you want to see her, she has a rare appearance in this one. She thinks I'm OK, I guess. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t4XAT_5-_04.html
I have used normal 6mil poly for years, and it's still going strong. I think that because I live in the north, the sun isn't as strong as your area. The heating idea is really smart. Another idea, may be a temp controlled gutter heat tracing/pipe heat tracing buried in the soil to keep the soil temp consistent. Great vid sir. New to the channel but enjoying the DIY stuff. I am just accumulating so many ideas!! Cheers!
You might check out borax for treating your 2x4s. You could even do it before using the boiled linseed oil. Even pressure treated lumber doesn't last that long outside where I am - all depends on climate. Nominal size (think "named" size) 2 x 4, actual size - 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - due to 1) drying and 2) planing to make it smooth and rounded over. Fresh milled lumber used to be sawed on mills that had 1" marks on the sleds - so the wet and rough size of the lumber is 2" x 4". Once it's dried and dimensioned in a planer mill the finished size is smaller.
Oh my goodness. I never even thought of that, I thought since I don’t have a greenhouse, winter gardening is marked out for me. But it’s not! Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing. You are fantastico! encourage people to do something in the garden. How I wished that all man like you. You look so healthy body mind and heart. So positive young man and always working hard.in your garden and your videos encourage us and learned us how?....
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. My goal is to try and encourage people to get back into gardening, so I try to make things as easy as possible. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever wanted a hoop house in your garden? You can build this one for little money no matter your skill level. I'm no expert carpenter! You can do it, too!
Hozor A Elahy thanks. I really am not good at carpentry, so I say if I can do this, anyone can. The fact that I am so bad at it makes me believe anyone can build this. Dale made a brief appearance at the end, but this video was already so long that I didn’t want to make it longer. Dale will make an appearance in my next shorter video for sure!
I greatly appreciate this video and how clearly you show it while also building it. Should not be an easy job to clearly shoot a video like this. Quick question: What do you do with it during spring/summer? Do you simply remove it and store it? I am thinking of building another one with a lighter row cover like Agfabric ag-15 to prevent insects and pest like the squash bore....not sure if it is worth building another one versus just changing its cover. What do you think?
TheDenizification you are correct, it took literally 2 weeks to film and edit together, which you can tell by the way I’m wearing 4 different outfits. Having to make those shots dragged out a build that could’ve been done in a Saturday into a multi-day event, but it is worth it to get the info out there. To answer your question, I intend on removing this lid in the spring. However, I intend to build 2 or 3 more that I intend to cover with light row cover fabric and clips. This heavy duty plastic one will be what I will grow tomatoes, peppers and frost sensitive stuff under all winter, but the other floating row cover builds I intend to use to keep bugs off during the summer and as very light frost protection for things like beets, snap peas and other plants that can tolerate a frost but not a very deep freeze. That’s my plan, anyway.
@@TheMillennialGardener Great work! Maybe even this ol fart can do this!☺️ When you get around to the light weight bug cover, you might want to look at tulle. It's the netting that wedding veils are made of. I used that years ago to cover my brassicas and it worked beautifully. If I'm remembering correctly, it comes 120" wide or maybe 180".
Hey man! I really enjoyed this video. I will be building one for next winter season. Great instruction, not too much mindless chatter, lol. Great video!
I really enjoyed this video. Well detailed and presented. If I may make one suggestion. It would be best to have the crown of the wood facing up rather than down (so the grain of the wood looks more like an 'n' rather than a 'u'). This will allow any water from soaking deeper into the soft grain of the wood which could result in rot further down the line. Just something I learned when laying decking back during the days I worked.
There are a number of things I would change if I could do this build again, but overall, it worked very well. I was able to keep 3 tomato plants alive all winter long under it. Problem was, the hinged design didn't work, because the hinged top was 50" wide and my bed spacing is only 26" apart, so when I'd open the top, it would fall into my adjacent bed. It was no big deal during winter, but when the spring came and that adjacent bed was filled, I couldn't open the top more than halfway. Keep that in mind - the hinged design requires significant bed spacing.
How is it holding up now that some time has passed? I also wanted to thank you because your videos have helped me tremendously. I live in NC also....about an 1.5 hours from your area. Ha...I just broke down in Sunset Beach a week ago and some good ole Brunswick County folks ended up helping me out. Keep the videos coming...good stuff
3 года назад
Looks good and keeps plants warm though winter. Thank you for sharing
You had the same idea I had for using pvc to connect the hoops instead of more wood like he did. His way is good but I'm cheap and usually broke so pvc made more sense.
I love this, wanting husband to build one. I would probably not make it as tall as yours since I won't be trying to grow tall produce like tomatoes during winter. I'm in zone 7a so we get quite cold in deep winter. Just need it for brassicas. A lower ceiling would mean less to heat and easier to handle when opening and closing. Also more stable in wind. Thank you for showing how to build it.
You're 100% correct. If you don't need the height, smaller is better. It'll hold up to winds better and be easier to keep warm. More air volume than you need is the enemy. I only built it this tall to try and grow dwarf tomatoes. Hopefully, it works for me. This design in Zone 7a should make brassicas, kale, lettuce, etc. feasible all winter! Definitely do it if you can. I love mine so far.
Great vid G! I've been watching Tubers use pressure treated for the longest time and I thought they were crazy but it's just copper now so yeah. J.Prig is a beast glad you could build on his plan forealz!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! There's no need to fear over modern copper azole treated wood. Avoid the arsenic-based stuff, which isn't sold for residential lumber anymore, anyway. As long as you aren't building a garden bed out of old pressure treated utility poles and railroad ties, you're in good shape 😂
Great Tutorial! I love the way you explained all the steps, and added your personal experiences while building it, for example how you said you replaced the hinge screws with better performing ones. Your editing allowed for an easy follow. Thank you for this video!
I absolutely love it...looking forward to a hoop house in spring...maybe I can just start growing earlier can't wait to see your results...so excited for you!
Thank you. I appreciate you watching. I think I am going to build a few more but use very thin floating row covers during the summer for shade in my harsh UV summers and to keep bugs off as well.
@@TheMillennialGardener I agree those floating row covers saved my tomatoe plants and pepper plants from Tropical Strom Isaias! They really held up...all the best!
I need to borrow you for a few seasons. All the years before this last 3, I would have been able to do this myself. Unfortunately, life happens, and I am not able to do much (med issues). But, glad to see a millennial devoted to sharing there work, savings and technology to feed themselves.
There's no better time to start a garden than now. Food is in short supply and more expensive than ever. I hope everyone tries to grow whatever they can on whatever piece of land they have, no matter how large or how small. It never hurts to have some supplemental food.
@@TheMillennialGardener No doubt. I have grow bags on elevated stands, with my walker I can manage Swiss Chard, carrots, potatoes, most herbs, tomatoes. I can reach asparagus and strawberries from the ground, but I'm exhausted within 10-20 minutes. I keep trying. I have hens, and I dreamed of beekeeping and inoculating logs with mushroom spores.
That's the key is the plastic you go cheap it's not going to work my hoop house stays 70 degrees when it's 40 degrees outside if sun's out well explained video good job
Exactly! Don't cheap out using "plastic sheeting" to save $20, because it won't work out well. However, the other key is to not go "too thick" with your plastic because the thicker the plastic, the less solar energy will reach your plants. If you go too thick, your plants won't grow well. The key is finding the minimum amount you need. 6 mil works for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener just got to compensate w/ more led rope lights for the loss of sunlight. Look at the big commercial specialty greenhouse over in Canada or in the UK. They have lights and sensors so that the lights turn on as needed not just for heat. But for lighting on rainy days. Big ole HID lighting for heat and light. LEDs for light w/ minimal heat. Also about those clip, you should really consider screwing them on, otherwise your gonna be putting them back on after windy nights.
Install hinges both sides. Use smaller diameter L shaped pins. You now have the option to open either direction and eliminated the worry of wind liftage. Probably better to add more hinges per side if you open a lot.
@@hyacinthABC Short piece of wire just thick enough to be a somewhat sloppy fit. Bend a little L on the end to grab easier. Home depot or Ace sells wire of different thickness that doesn't rust...Might want to consider a short piece of brass/ stainless all thread rod found at those same places
Great video... Why not use zip ties to loosely fasten around the PVC pipe, then use plant clips or curtain rod clips through the slack between the zip tie and the PVC pipe to hang the lights? If the lights go bad, the lights could still easily be replaced and still stay secure w/out falling off the hook above when opening and closing the hoop cover. I really like how it turned out.
Great video! You managed to cover even the most basic parts for the novice gardener, and at the same time not bore anyone IMHO at least! And it was fairly obvious that you live in a moderate climate area, working in shorts and a t-shirt in mid-October was a big clue. A great hint as to why GREENHOUSE film is a necessity!
Thanks. I always announce the date and location in the beginning of my video to get that point across, but my location information and zone is always in the video description and the channel description. I want to be very clear what conditions I'm growing in because what I do may not work for you without modifications.
Wonderful video. Very doable if you have tools and a little bit of knowledge of how to build something and a little patience. This is excellent for a beginning gardener like me!
Thank you so much for bringing up the treated lumber topic! I see that myth about it still being treated with arsenic over and over and it's very frustrating. Excellent video!
Yes, indeed, it frustrates me. If the pressure treated compound were toxic, the plants would be sickly. The amount of toxin it takes to make plants sick is tiny compared to what makes a human being sick, so if the plant is not ill, it is literally impossible for it to contain any measurable level of toxin that can hurt a human.
Oh good to know about the pressure treated wood! I will have to remember that! I’ve just been getting wood from the scraps the builder in my neighborhood leaves. I’ve made my raised beds for free if you don’t count the tools or screws 😂
I always laugh at the "pressure treated wood" argument. There is a lot of merit to it with the arsenic-treated wood, but not with modern copper-treatments. If the pressure treated wood was making the soil toxic, the trees would be suffering. If the trees are healthy, then by definition, the soil isn't toxic. If there isn't enough toxin in the soil to adversely affect the tree, there is no way it could be harmful to humans. My beds perform great across the board.
@@TheMillennialGardener yea I don’t think a lot of people know that the process to pressure treat wood has changed. I know I didn’t until I started watching RU-vid to learn more about gardening.
Nice build. I would only change one thing. Rather than have the light strung from the top of the hoophouse, I'd string them along the bottom inside edge to increase overall heat distribution considering the fact that heat rises. Even better would be to used staked exterior landscape spotlights. They put out even more heat and offer a better look than string lights.
I understand that people think that hot air rises, but when you're dealing with such a low volume of sealed air and also realize the point of the design is to hold in heat, it is going to build and distribute the same. What you want to prioritize is placing your lights in a safe place that won't be a fire risk or contact the foliage, which is why I placed the lights where I placed them. You can use an exterior light, but if you use lights that are too hot, you can cook your plants or create a fire hazard. Also, I like the Christmas lights because they last a very long time. They're designed to run for very long periods, so you don't have to change them often. Just consider all these safety and maintenance options beforehand. Then, customize the amount of lights you have for your climate.
Another good video; I'm making PVC hoop tunnels on my planters which are either 4' X 10' or 3' X 10' and covering them with 6 mil plastic to stretch my fig season by 2-3 months here in Victoria, BC
John C. I think they’ll do very well in your climate. Possibly even better than mine since your sun won’t make it so hot during the day. My biggest challenge will be venting them in my winters because the nights can get very cold, but the days could roast my plants! Good luck.
Great concepts and info. I might try this but with a PVC around the inside diameter of the base of the hoop with some holes drilled every few inches and run the lighting through it for more radiant heat
okielahjiajia I will provide it, but it will take me a few months for my climate to cool off, begin using the hoop house and collect the data. Stay tuned for the long haul 😊
Thank you, I appreciate it. Where there is a will, there is a way. If you have a yard, you may be able to make some room. When I lived in the city and I had no backyard and all I had was a roof deck balcony, I literally screwed containers into the deck railing and grew plants in them.
I love this type of hoop house/lid .. Still working on my raised beds and have just harvested my butternut squash and carrots that reseeded themselves. (yay) I'm curious if the constant light on the plants will play affect them.. Never thought about that till seeing this video.. not having darkness at all. I'm curious to research about it. Maybe it will make them grow faster and bigger.. hmm fun fact., if you bury large twigs in your raised beds (or tree stumps for bigger raised beds), by the second year you will not have to water the beds. the lower beds it may be a good idea to lay a layer of twigs and small branches to cover the whole bottom then add your soil on top of that. it's call hugelkultur.. The decaying logs stay wet and create a microbe environment, mycellium, and attract beneficial insects and worms. this is year 2 for mine and I never watered my butternut squash one time this year.. it mimics the forest where you see little plants growing out of a fallen rotting log. If you put in some small hay bales under that lid and poor beer on it, it will heat up enough to heat the raised bed also.. Great fun experiment too.:)) Thanks for the video.. just found your channel and subscribed.. you have a very pleasant way of explaining... looking forward to seeing more.. oh and I love your garden set up!! what are the trees lining the edges?
I did a little searching, that is why you said it must be incandescent light. It is not enough to affect plant growth . Good for only the heat... Darn.. lol.. learn something everyday. lol.. Great video =D
The strand lighting isn't nearly strong enough to substitute for the UV rays of the sun. I wouldn't anticipate it having any measurable effect. Unless, of course, you are filling your hoop house with strands of large C7 or C9 lights and have serious wattage going. When you start dealing with wattage in the hundreds, you start mirroring grow lights, so that could very well have an effect. However, bear in mind that places like Alaska have daylight nearly all day in the summer. That's where almost all the "large fruit" records are made in the USA because of the incredibly long days, so it certainly won't hurt the plants. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for watching. If you're talking about the trees on my yard in containers or up against the fence, they're figs.
@@TheMillennialGardener ;)) yes I soon realized I was considering the light as tho the plants can 'see' the light..lol.. instead it is the rays, uv and infrared etc that have to do with it using the light.. Not only is your idea will keep the chill off it will look nice at night. I like the whole idea.. :)) Ahh fig trees.. you have a wonderful food forest going on there friend.. :)) Thanks for the reply... Best to you....
Your video has great articulate and detailed instructions. In addition, the boiled linseed oil and wireless outlet hints were unexpected and helpful. Subscribed!
I would have not cut the ends, i didn't understand why u did. Great video though. I'm in the process of redoing a couple of mine and u gave me good tips.
great idea but i would use 4way cross fittings on the middle pipe.it will be stronger.you should put the second endcap at the edge of the 2x4.for the second hoop.the more airspace the warmer.with the 2 hoops you should be about 3 to 3 1/2 zones down.they have screws wthat are selftapping.
4 way fittings were not available. I also wouldn’t want to make cuts in the pipe because it would become a weak point. The greenhouse is supporting very little weight. There is no need for a second layer in my climate. If you need a second layer, customize accordingly. Thanks for watching.
Maybe it’s just me but you are the best instructor for how to co plate a project that I’ve viewed on RU-vid. And I have viewed many. Another project on my to do list this fall. I’m curious how it worked for you. Did you need more lighting? How often did you have to raise and lower the top? And most importantly, how did the tomatoes come out? BTW, I bought the cannon and it comes Friday. Can’t wait to use it. Keep them coming.
Thank you. As the winter continued to cool, I had to add larger C9 incandescent lights. I made a follow-up video on that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2qYwQmBAapQ.html The tomatoes inside survived all winter, and I was able to begin harvesting the first few cherry tomatoes in March.
You may already know any lumps and bumps in a plastic frame becomes a friction point the wind can use to rub a hole into sheet plastic. You may want to use 3/4 inch PVC pipe for the frame, that way you can use 1/2 inch PVC pipe and connectors to link the 3/4 inch pipe without lumps and bumps. You do have to make some short 1/2 inch pipe pieces with a unique modification so they will squeeze down a bit and fit into the 3/4 inch pipe, but it sure does make for a nice, smooth connector. I used this method to make a foam glider launcher since I didn't want my soft foam gliders getting damaged as they launched off the end of the rails. Any lumps and bumps would do some series damage to the soft foam gliders often sold for $1 at the Dollar Tree stores. The grandkids loved to play with them even though they are very poor glider toys. I like to modify the gliders and then test launch them to see if the changes made them better gliders, or not.
So far, it's been through two tropical storms with no effect. It's pretty stout. Because of the dome-shaped design, it sheds wind very easily. It doesn't snow in my climate, so snow isn't an issue. If you have an issue with snow, that can be taken care of by periodically brushing it off or using additional conduits. I wouldn't go too much thicker on the diameter or the conduits will be difficult to bend.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes, I can believe it is stout, but that would be more about the shape resisting wind load and your skills as a builder. A dome has even more resistance due to its shape from a wind load from any direction. In my locations wind load is huge at times, as in over 70 mph, so shape is important. The rest is about the materials used and the builders skill.
Thank you! If I can do it, you can do it. It's actually a really simple build. It takes a little bit of time, but the parts are very cheap and easy to deal with.
