OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH perfect timming i was just about to start track preping my first car that can get 0to60 in under 10sec 350Z HR and i had alot of questions now thay are all answered ill be doing steps 123&4 this summer!
a few years ago i went through all 40 something pages of your build on my350z forums. I love the dedication on the build through the years. I also love the fact that you kept it N/A powered (not sure if thats wanting to keep it in a specific class). I do have one input for your videos. I would recommend some sort of mic for your videos because at times it is hard to hear.
@@mohamedsakka2338 wow old comment. Nope, ended up getting a truck and two new supersport motorcycles. I run them on track and I eventually got up into the advanced group. Tons of fun going fast while being smooth and knee down is awesome. Total motorcycle head now.
Michael Gardner .....missed this response. When you talk about how bad the front end understeers when OEM. I have had 255 in the front end for like forever. OEM is 225. At the track, I thought it did ok in the corners. With 285 in the rear, the back end really stuck well I thought. I am getting new rims and I have been wanting to get rid of the staggered and go square anyway. Just confirming a square set up is best to go, I figured staggered is for safety with understeer. At the track, the OEM rotors at 15 mins for sure got warped and you would have to be gentle. I want the BBK g37 caliper/rotors but they do weigh more is why I like my OEM for the street. If you think the oem brembos are good enough for the track, then I will find a used set of them instead. Plus they are lighter. More info about the VLSD I didn't know. I just googled those JRZ coilovers. Are they really 5k? Wow that is up there in price and I have never heard of them before. KW v3's are more for street use, not really hard core track. This is a good video from an actual race car driver with winning experience. What is not to like about this video? More on the engine would for sure, be a good video. I know about where your top plenum came from and how the curve is the bottle neck.
Motordyne G35 Yeah Square is the way to go. Night and day difference. Get some 285 RE71R, RS4, or Rival S then see what what it does. The Brembo are good for the price. The G37/370Z Akebono probably are a good choice too.
Motordyne G35 yeah this level of Coilover are all over 5k. JRZ, Moton, Anze, MCS, Penske, KW Clubsport are ok but I wasn't happy with their supplied Spring rates and there wasn't room to make changes. JRZ at least has a range to choose from and there is room to make custom changes. It's one of the top companies for sure.
whats your opnion on the tokico d shock? and why the swift spec r springs arent progressive spring terrible for track and linear springs better like the RSR?
Great guide! Everyone who wants to track there 350Z should reference this. I'd like to put an emphasis on cooling as I have learned that this weekend! Also I love the beginning "Its not a track build if it never sees the track"
Well done. Adding power should be the last or close to last thing one should do when making a track car. Chassis and suspension tuning come first but even before all that, #1 should have been driver mod. Have them take their stock car to the track and see what it's capable of. A stock 350z is already a handful for a lot of amateur drivers. Get some HPDE done with a stock car and then follow up with suspension, chassis, wheels, brakes, tires, lsd, aero and last power.
Michael, I truly enjoyed your video, but even more your no-none sense approach to the decision-making on modifications. I found refreshing the similarities w/ my father --now a retired Pharmacologist-- and self-made automotive mechanical engineer. The latest was his real passion & it sure showed it on the track, and crazy "as needed" modifications he made on a "shoe string". The sweet smell of hot "Castrol" oil & burned rubber tires & the melodic sound of fine-tuned high rpm engines remains in my sensorial part of the brain. He trained one of his friends as pilot, who eventually placed 12th as part of the Porsche squadron in Le Mans. As a young impatience driver, I couldn't comprehend why it took my father such a long time to get to the "power" phase. He always said "fast cars need to be able to handle the curves, be stable, responsive & efficient on the entire performance range, but most importantly, one needs to be able to stop the car when you need it to stop... I am a newcomer to your group, but your video already inspired me to move forward --on the right foot-- w/ my 2008 350Z mods journey . I do thank you for that. However, was that a single turbo shown on your video? If so, any comments on what you have vs a twin one? My car will be used for street and weekend track. I n the meantime, I will be going over your prior videos.
This is perfect for me ! Exactly what i needet :D Thank you for being so active lately and helping us so much :) I cant get enough of your Car and your experiences :)
Thank you very much ! I have fun making them and I will try to be more active soon :) Edit: I just saw you Videos and they are great. I think i can learn from you hehe.
If my 350Z race car had priority an important improvement would be to move the engine back, perhaps remove the false firewall to give even more space back there. As you say, the most effective weight reductions increase the already front weight bias.
Very nice video! From my personnal experience however I would put the anti-roll bars and seats before the LSD and shocks : - Even with stock shocks the anti-roll bars make a huge difference, I was 3 seconds faster per lap at my local track after changing them (1'3x.xx laps). - Stocks seats don't maintain well, with stock(ish) power you'll gain more with a good bucket seat than with coilovers, just because you'll have a way better control of the car.
Yeho_One thanks for the comment. For safety reasons I wouldn’t change the seat until you are ready to do cage, seat, harness, helmet, and Hans all together at once.
for my 2004 so far I've done: dot4, Hawk hp+, front poly bushings, front ball joints, adjustable uppers, Conti ExtremeContacts @ 245/255, new stock calipers, new fr bumper with splitter, new Corbeau seats (huge pita to get them low), CAI (no tuning allowed in CA), radiator flush, oil change to full synthetic, Tein shocks and springs, adjustable rear lowers. it's a good start in only 2mos.
SUPER !! Feel like i should pay you money for that. I just got an ultimate deal 350Z owned by a slender wealthy young married woman. It was garaged. All she did was play the radio and float from salon to parlor. 18,000 miles for $18,000 . I'm gonna change my last name to Carmax.
great video, only suggestion I'd make is keep the volume level..have it to my ear to hear you talk and then my ear drum is busted with a straight pipe vq ;) the #vq35ftw
Fantastic lol awkward and awesome. I have a 2003 z With everything on your list with the exception of the big GT wing :( this car is down about 2675 pounds making about 270 to the rear wheels. Big brake kit koni shocks with swift Springs fat fat sway bars this thing is a rocket ship it could be faster but it's about handling for now thanks for the good review bro
The weight difference assuming the low end weight of the stock car and the figures you provided is only a difference of 124 lbs, most likely less since your car is stripped. The stock difference is 186 lbs, front bias. for anyone watching in later years wanting some Z info.
Couple other weight reduction mods I've done and still kept my entire interior ( I'm also not racing ) are : ac condenser, compressor and its drive belt, aluminum crank pulley, idler pulley delete, shorter belt, 18lb flywheel vs stock 28, aluminium driveshaft (only about 1 oz lighter than stock I just needed a new one 🤣), 3lb weight removed from rear hatch lid, rear wiper and motor delete, wiper reservoir delete (I just carry a spray bottle 😅 dont want that overspray) removed the airbags, braum seats( I have a touring model ) and a couple lil tech's 😁
This is a very good video. When I purchased my Z 2016. The tires had 275/35/19 on the rear and 245/35/19. On the front/rear, brand new Nitto Neo~Gens now. You are correct about the heaviness at the front handling. I like to keep the 19 inch rims, what tire size or brand for every day driving and track..?? I like to achieve a more balanced gripped performance ride. Btw, I like the Hotchkis swat bars. Its going to take a little bit of time to get it where it will handle and perform well. Please feel free to comment. Thank you very much. Finally, a very humble race driver. Subscribed
Sprydo7 I am honestly not even sure how to help with those wheel sizes. A staggered 19” set up looks good but you will be fighting with it at the Track from day 1. Since it’s a larger size you will also be paying a lot more for tires and a lot of the fastest brands of Street tires end at 18” in diameter sizing. The only advice I can give is put as wide a tire as you can fit on your front wheel. Something like a 265 up front wouldn’t be that bad. Try to get the tire sizes to eliminate a lot of the stagger. I believe Hankook makes some RS3 and RS4 in 19” sizes and Yokohama has the Neova AD08R.
Thanks for the awesome video man, lucky enough to have Datsuns since my 72 240!! Now it's a beautiful red 07 350 have some cool tracks in the Chicago area to play around on, your advice is on point for the everyday guy, hope I can use some of your ideas down the road, thanks again see you at the track!!
Your video have pushed me to make a 350 my next track car. Maybe in the future make a video on all of your modifications like oil cooler/ Oil Sump you have ect.
I saw that video too. I think i have seen all your videos minus the fender once you use to do at first. I was more interested in how you installed the oil sump and oil cooler and stuff like that little more technical then just showing what you have. I'm interested in building a car, but want to start slow this time going to start with building it first safety things for the car fluids Cooling ect, then work from there. I was looking on a accusump but don't see how this will work since the space is limited under the z with Oil cooler ect. here is my other channel I had a track build 03 Mini cooper S. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9oeZt6ceTmU.html
Nice, I did most of the mods in a similar order to my WRX which is a great track car but is also usable on the street. Just bought a mint 350Z and plan on going down the same path with that . . .
Very glad I found this channel...recently purchased an 04 z , it is stock..past weekend finally got back on track after few years absence...I am use to driving older style m3's so very different feeling in the z...I do like it, but do have kids so either a second car or an m3....nonetheless this is lot of great info!! Thx for making these videos!! Awesome car you build..awesome driving!!👍
Love the video man. I just got a stock HR which I want to upgrade. Springs, sways, 4.08, exhaust, cai, cams, tune. Just did a JWT clutch & LW FW. For street.
Great stuff, I've done lots of that already but good to hear about my future intended updates too. (although my one will still largely be used on the street for now). I'm really keen to learn more about the power upgrades, although I've seen what you've got, and read about Sasha's build but perhaps anything you'd do differently, or maybe what wasn't needed. Oh, and I can wholly recommend Meister R GT1's for street/track use.
I keep coming back to this video periodically every time I knock out some of the stuff on my "350z to do list" lol. Next up is trading in my street coilovers for some JRZ ones. Which ones do you have specifically or which ones do you prefer? Their vast customization options are a double edged sword when it comes to narrowing down any specifics.
Gotcha, your straightforwardness is always appreciated! I actually answered my question by watching your walk around/mod explanation, so I appreciate you taking the time to get an already redundant point across.
Also love your page and I’m sure you get asked a lot but what exhaust do you have? I think it might be Frankenstein’d but still would like a vague idea of whatcha got goin on, sounds beautiful! Also love the channel been watching for awhile now!
This was the semi secret list until 2020. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-88cN6SU5Wj0.html It’s being improved a bit for 2021. Check out the channel as I’m organizing it better and posting updates more often.
How did you decide on the camber settings, and do you change them ahead of an event based on the track you're going to, or do you keep them always at -3.7 front and -2.3 rear? Do you find your settings changing on their own to whatever degree after a race? Also, looks like you have Hotchkis sway bars...? What settings for front and back work best for you, re stiffest vs softest positions? Thanks.
KaosTheory360 No. I'd recommend turning VDC off at the track. But VDC is more dependent on tire height than width. But even with the front and rear tires being the same height the car will be ok.
Nice build my friend! I’d like to talk with you! I have a 2003 Track Edition that I had built from stock for the track. My Z was the “Bull Run Prep 350z “ featured on RU-vid but after trying a Track day I was hooked! Got rid of all the extra BS and now it’s track time.. let’s talk.. Will
Hi michael. Thanks for the video! It's very interesting! About cooling; what water radiator recomends? Koyo? I have a 25 row's oil cooler but water temp rises to 102-103°C. Thanks!
AnthonyJ350 hey here's a complete walk through of my car. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6kdRDYBgw0Y.html the clutch is a clutch masters carbon Kevlar. No point in touching the shifter.
Michael Gardner Not even replacing the worn out nylon bushing with a brass piece for better feel? Or you don't care for it? And is the hydraulic system upgraded at all?
If you were to do it all over would you have started with another platform ? I'm really considering a 350z but all forums saying get something else as a base ..yet you're the only real well documented track 350z
Thanks dude this is a very good video I do not Have a 350 Z but an 01 Acura CL that has plenty of power and handling that I think I’m going to build and do next year also what our tracks do you go to
370Z engine is harder to work on for power due to the VVEL. Shorter wheelbase than the 350z too which means potentially quicker in tight turns but at the expense of high speed stability.
Hi Mike! Quick question. What are your thoughts on relocating the battery rewards? 30+ pounds shifted towards the rear might seem minimal, but it’s a step toward improving the Z’s weight distribution. Looking forward to your response and thanks for the video!
christopherpuig12 negligible improvement for the amount of labour to do correctly. Batteries I’ve used batteries as light as 6lbs. I literally only had the OEM battery in there because I needed ballast to make weight for a class I was in. If you were striving for optimum you could go to the trouble however.
Davin Sturdivant it’s true. A 350Z is only a great option once you factor in the cost of getting one and the aftermarket support. It’s a great bang for the buck choice.
Oof, 57 in front. I always heard it’s was 52-53 in the front for weight distribution 😅. I guess it would be better for a drift car or a Bayshore route racer, lol
Hi great video. Ive curently got eibach sportline springs with oem shocks. I want to get the koni yellow sport shocks, will the eibachs be too much with the konis or woudl i be better getting the swift specs?
I think they will be a bit much and bit too low which will decrease your useful suspension travel. I had great experience with the Spec R. I’d sell the sport lines and pick up the swift spec R
square doesn't work on any model besides base because of the VDC (my Touring has it). i put 245/40 on my stock fronts and 255/40 on my stock rears. i COULD turn off VDC but that's not a good solution.
Have you ever managed to get the 350z to a wind tunnel to play with the aero? Could help with the weight issues. Use the wing to get the rear end tighter in corners to it doesn't swing out as bad
Hey Michael I love your videos and need your input. I have been trying to religiously follow your advice about building my 2006 Nissan 350z track car. I just bought brembos front and rear with stop tech steel braided brake lines and high temp brake fluid Mishimoto aluminum radiator & oilcooler also a oil catch can. What is your opinion on carbon fiber bits such as the hatch and hood I’m trying to shed weight. I’ve noticed you don’t have any full carbon fiber parts on the car. I wasn’t sure if it was to keep the weight more balanced or if you felt it wasn’t necessary. Also have you done any ecu tuning to the car? I’ve watched you videos and it seems like you cammed the car which is out of my price range for now. Any information will be very useful. This video is really the only information I have to go by as far as building the car. Not many people are knowledgeable about this car in Louisiana. Thanks, Kenny
I love your vids man! I'm taking a long shot for a response . I was about to buy some ksport coilovers and i kept hearing you say to avoid cheap coilovers. I'm guessing those are in that class.. Are BC coilovers also considered cheap? Without going into too much detail my fairly experienced racing friends are saying im a fool if i get koni yellow and swift springs instead of at least bc..
Thanks for the response brother! I agree with that and a good indicator of that is that megan racing has the exact coilover for the same price! The konis already have adjustable stiffness so the only things bc coilovers offer is height adjustment and preloading the springs. I want to stay around stock height so the only other factor is the preloading.
You can get adjustable collars for the Konis to control ride height and corner balance. I’m going to say... Koni dampers better than BC for sure. Just my opinion.
Hi Michael, my 03 Z is a dedicated track car. I upgraded the entire front suspension bushings during this winter, whitelines for LCA, spl solid for the rest. I was wondering if it is necessary to upgrade the rear bushing as well, if you did, did you feel the difference? Thanks
how's fitmeant with the wheels and 285 tyres and streering response I have coil overs and camber/toe arms. hoping to running them on street and track. are they liveable and no poke. or am I better off with 265 on 18x 9.5. hoping to stick with sqaure set up
Lightning lashX more tire up front is better in every conceivable way. I used 305 up front with no problems. So if it’s a choice 285 is the one to go for, preferably on the the 10.5” wide wheel
Awesome video, thanks!! Also, any reason you haven't replaced more panels with carbon? The price of carbon fenders etc. is relatively cheap for the 350z.
Haha yeah, can be hard to spend that much on some body panels :) I've heard the hatch and roof skin can help a lot, considering how much those factory parts weigh and how high up they are. Do you think carbon fenders/hood/splitter would shave enough weight to help with the weight balance?
Hi MIchael, I've been following your racing for some time. I have the koni/swift combo you spoke of, I wanted to ask if you still recommend a square wheel setup on those shocks/springs?
Michael Gardner yea 2 track days now, njmp was ok smooth turns, went to another small track in Englishtown NJ was very technical, car was all over the place but also running crappy tires 245 all way around, thanks for the tips man much appreciate it.
Who also saw the manifold platinum got cut out and they relocated the throttle body all the way down that way another custom u forgot to add in just saying
Rashid Belk you’d have to research this in your area. 350Z prices vary widely worldwide. In the US where most of my subscribers are from a decent Z can probably be purchased for 6-7k. A good welder cage alone will probably be over 3 k. So, you are already over budget. Suspension is usually at least 3 k for something track ready. The cheap stuff is truly garbage. Brakes can be upgraded with better components for 1000 bucks on the low end. Wheels and tires will be 2500.
In motocross when you downshift you don’t rev match to downshift because it allows you to stop quicker from the engine breaking would it be good or bad idea to do this in a car for the added braking from the engine?
Jacob Tapanes bad. It would unsettle the car and lock up the rear wheels. You’d have less control of the car as the grip of the rear tires would be useless at that point.
