You can use the thin wedges you removed from the legs to set the angle for the shelf trim, and for the shelf dados. Better to use the actual part than to measure.
That is a method, however, I hand-planned the saw marks off the legs, so the angle was no longer the same as the wedge. Also on thin parts like that there is a tendency for them to move due to releasing tension in the wood. So I felt measuring, and doing a test cut was the most accurate way to be sure nothing moved on me.
That's an elegant little table, dude. I've never had any kind of positive luck with water stains, and found that a very dilute tint in denatured alcohol works best for me - kind of eliminates the stress of the whole "Oh, no! An overlap mark!" Your stain technique is good. One other thing, as a huge fan of A&C and Craftsman furniture, cloud lifts are HARD WORK to execute, so I really like your approach with the cove bit and template... might be borrowing that idea soon. Don't worry, I'll put it back where I found it.
Quick question (that might have a more complicated answer than I think). By my observation, you are the most frequent user of your table saw fence on the left side of the blade. May I humbly ask what your rationale is for doing so?
Most importantly, when I am setting up the fence for an operation, I will set it up to what feels safe. If a cut feels awkward, I stop and rethink my setup. A lot of it is mental and what feels comfortable in any given setup. With that said, Typically: When I do rip cuts I typically have the fence on my right (camera left), because the tablesaw blade tilts to the left. This way I never have to worry about the blade tilting into the fence. If the fence was on the left of the blade and I tilted the blade to lets say 45° there is a possibility that the piece will get caught between the fence and the blade causing a kick back. I also feel like I have more control over the piece when having the fence to the right of the blade when ripping. However, there is an exception to that rule. If I am using a sacrificial fence attachment to make a 45° chamfer, I have to have the fence on the left, or the geometry doesn't work well to cut a clean chamfer. When I am cutting a rabbit, I will often set up the fence on the left just because it feels safe, but those can go either way unless I have a reason to set it up differently. For example, on the dado insert, the gap is wider on the right side because I use the same insert for 1/2" or 3/4" wide dados. If the piece is skinny and I don't want it to fall into the gap in the table saw insert, I will set up the fence to cover the gap. When using the miter gauge, I almost always have it to the right of the blade so I can make full use of the table to support the piece. Again safety.
@Benham_Design thanks for the reply. I totally understand the "what feels right" mentality. Since I switched to a slider, I've had to relearn how I process material, and with the blade tilting to the right, my rip fence has become difficult to use for bevel cuts. Anyhoo, very cool table and I always take something away when I watch
In my case, it would be hold my bottle of wine. Good tip about the damp rag. Rather than use all the butcher paper to cover the bench, I have a couple of cheap disposable picnic table clothes that so far I have had for over 18 months. Just being 'Frugal'. 😊
As a Scot living in Scotland you may or may know that only Scotch produced in Scotland can be spelt as Whisky. Any other variation of Scotch produced outside Scotland is spelt Whiskey. That’s how you know if it is the genuine article. Great video Brian need to see a lot more of you.
I did not know that, thanks for the info. Here in America, you know the moonshine is the real deal if it was brewed in a hillbillies back yard, and the guy you bought it from is missing teeth.
Beautiful design and execution. Is there certain species of wood that are better candidates for dyes than others? Obviously white oak, but how about other blonde woods like ash, hard/soft maples…?
I've had good luck with ash, hickory, white oak. I've had blotching challenges with maples, cherry, and pine. I think the key is to test before committing. I make several samples in different woods to be sure my client likes the look of them.
