I don't envy you for having to edit this video lol. This tutorial is super inspiring tho. You used so many techniques I have never seen/thought of before!
I would have preferred this one to win but oh well, it's not necessary to consider the official canon if you have your canon of how things should look, that's what's great from Bionicle, it brings endless possibilities.
The only possible drawback would be the color scheme, but colors don't clash too much and you would expect him to look wealthy and bejeweled as the universe's greatest artisian. Everthing else, functions, detales, articulation, stature, is vastly supperior. You won in our hearts!
Thanks again to everyone that voted for this entry! We didn't win, but it certainly went further than I ever imagined a moc like this could. If you want to see more of what this moc can do, I have a features video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l-UiT7YXo_g.html A quick note about the Studio file - part 44847, "sports hockey skate", is used often in the real moc but hasn't been released for the program yet. So in the file I've linked here all instances of that piece have been replaced by bohrok feet, part 51668, the closest analog I could find in terms of shape.
Hey random builder here I plan on ordering basically all the parts for this guy and building him just wanted to say I saw this video like 2 years ago and I couldn’t find it for a couple minute and thought it had been taken down. I am so relieved to find it again this is such a gem for aspiring builders great job please leave this on yt for all time lol
Wow, I'm flattered to hear that! Don't worry I have no plans to take this video down. But looking at it again two years later (can't believe it's been that long already), I can't help but wish I could go back in there and tweak some things differently. I've picked up a few new tricks along the way I didn't have before. But yeah, if you're planning on building this yourself good luck! Let me know if you have any questions down the road.
Timestamps, for anyone interested: 0:00 Intro/MOC showcase 0:23: Paints used 0:41 Upper torso 21:12 Lower torso 26:05 Head 26:21 Right upper arm 30:09 Left upper arm 30:28 Right lower arm 34:51 Right hand 36:11 Left lower arm 40:08 Left hand 41:52 Right upper leg 52:28 Left upper leg 1:01:30 Right lower leg 1:09:43 Left lower leg 1:10:03 Right foot 1:13:06 Left foot 1:13:18 Masks 1:14:43 Work hammer 1:18:45 War hammer attachments
This may not have the colour 100% true to the book but this captures the characters personality so well, my personal winner. Also the ingenuity you to have to come up with something this poseable and this detailed from Lego pieces is incredible. Subscribed 👍
Oh man oh man, I’ll be taking this challenge on over the next few weeks. Time to go through my parts and see what I’m missing, then put out a few orders through bricklink.
I do you use bricklink, and stores will vary. I don't have any one set of stores I use consistently but rather compile a wanted list on the website first then filter by which stores have the most of my needed parts in one place. Chances are you'll probably need to shop at more than one place to get everything, especially since plenty of the "professional" biggest stores with an unusually high number of parts stocked tend to be massive price gougers. Compare several stores for the same parts; often times if a store is cheaper in one they're cheaper across the board. From my experience, you can roughly divide stores and thus your shopping priorities into two: stores that have a wide variety of constraction parts, and everything else.
Honestly outside of highly specific situations, that's a level of nitpicking that's not a concern for me. Moreover, black friction pin-axles are more than 150 times the price of their common blue counterparts in bricklink stores where I live; there is no scenario in which I'm wasting that much money to replace a common utility piece that I'm barely going to see by the end.
@@purplehaze2358 Never paint anything that directly connects or goes into a connection. Or at least try to avoid it as much as possible. Notice that there’s no painted ball joint or entire axle piece because those are in direct frictional contact with something else. Paint would gunk up everything inside and make it impossible to use. I’m not painting my pins black.
Thanks, I ordered mine from shapeways with the Smooth Fine Detail Plastic material. I find it's both sturdier than the brittle base plastic and its print quality is indistinguishable from a real lego mask, but from my experience even the cheapest shapeways material option shouldn't require additional sanding. That's one of the things you're paying for really. The color comes as a dull transparent clear and needs to be painted. The paint I used is listed in the video.
So do you recommend to use rustoleum for painting Bionicle parts, and if you do which primer do you use, or is primer not necessary? Also your Artakha is a great interpretation.
Azlan A While I haven’t tested a wide variety of paints, I’ve been using Rustoleum for the last year for its reliably robust coat once *completely* dried. Dry to the touch is within 30min to an hour, but full cure to the point where you can be rough with it without gloves can take a couple days. But once it gets there, I find you can handle it as casually as a normal piece. Now that doesn’t mean you have to wait that long before putting pieces together, just use gloves before that point. The 2X line I use, “2X Paint and Primer”, is convenient in that it’s just that - primer included. The only time I’ll use a separate primer is for white paint which I’ve found notoriously difficult to fully cover up the original color underneath without it. There are considerations though. I wouldn’t recommend painting over any kind of ball joint. And for any piece with a stud that connects into a technic pinhole, I’d leave that stud clear of paint or it’ll be an extremely tight fit.
Could anyone tell me the specific parts-number for the piece at 2:24? Just I feel like the collection from my childhood could use a serious update. And this looks like an incredibly useful piece.
Honestly, despite being inspired by Artakha it doesnt look like the comic Artakha (since this has more like a "athletic/agile warrior" body rather than a "squared body and a solemn posture". Cause this, i humbly recomend to modify the mask so to give it a younger vibe or to give life to a new character!
I'm not quite sure what you're referring to here by a "comic Artakha". There was never any official visual representation of Artakha during Bionicle's run. Maybe you're referring to artwork that came out from the TTV canon moc contest? If so, that contest IS what this Artakha was part of. But Artakha never actually appeared in any official Lego artwork or comic book.
Thanks man. The mask is a custom design by a fan; you can download a file of its model for free to 3d print yourself, or you can order it fully made and cleaned from a professional printing company. My moc uses the latter. I've linked both in the video description. Now the price of everything depends on a number of things, the first being how many pieces exactly you already have. Most people interested in moccing already have at least several of what's needed here so that would cut down on cost. But assuming you're starting fresh and need to buy every single piece here...I'm afraid I can't really give you a maximum estimate except to say it's probably somewhat pricey. That's because it'll also depend on where you buy your pieces. I order my parts from a site called bricklink. If you've never used it before, it's not a straightforward parts seller itself but rather host to thousands of other second hand parts shops. Each shop sets its own price for things so you'll have to compare to get the best one. Again depending on how many of these pieces you need, you may have to shop at more than one store at a time.
This particular moc? Not at the moment. But sometimes sites like ebay have fan recreations of other peoples’ mocs for sale if you can’t build it yourself.
