Of all the RU-vid vids I've viewed showing how to make your own wood countertops, this is the only one worth watching. Biscuits, ripping opposite a jointed edge, clamps alternated top and bottom, sealing both sides, oversize attachment holes so the top can float a little, and especially spending a little of what she saved on a new tool. She really nailed this!
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ru-vid.comUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
Thanks for sharing! With the prices of building materials, we, my hubby and I, are doing ALL the work ourselves on a total gut and rebuild remodel. I have 2 pieces of high quality plywood I bought before the prices went sky high and after coming across your video, I now know I'm finally going to get my wood countertops!! Just saved $$hundreds of dollars$$! Thanks for sharing!!
Wonderful video! Such a beautiful countertop! Just as a word of advice: at 5:43 you said that the biscuits give it "a lot of strength," which isn't true. The strength of the bond comes from the glue - biscuits are more just for lining up the pieces together. :)
I'm sure by now someone has already made a comment regarding the sizing "6/4" is said six-quarter. As 4/4, being 1"+/- is four-quarter and 8/4, 2"+/- is eight-quarter etc... No criticism here just an FYI. Counters look great. Nice job.
Great job loved that you scribed the back wall. Makes for a better fit I am attempting to do a butcher block top the wood I have chosen is Purple Heart. I'm cutting my strips to 1 1/2" to 2" X 1 1/2"
Very awesome work! I'm close to replacing our way out of date countertops with ash :) I would like to dispel a misconception though, biscuits don't add strength. They don't go deep enough into the wood to do that. They are perfect though for alignment though :)
Very very great work! Beautiful source of inspiration and lots of useful details.I envy the large space available in the Usa... everything big and wide.
WOW ... WOW WOW SOOOOOO BEAUTIFUL I love this video... so glad I found you After you sealing this... is it FOOD Safe? Seriously... This is the BEST video on WOOD COUNTERTOPS... Happy Happy Happy Where did you find the wood to buy? Thank you for sharing this BEAUTIFUL Video
I just woke and am having my cup o coffee. My eyes are not even clear yet. But the algos brought your video up. I had been wondering how I was going to dimension for new kitchen counter tops. There has been quakes and the house has shifted. Even after I lift the house and the floors, it will not be square to fit. I hadn’t thought of using a template.
We are planning on a tiled black splash (hoping to add it soon) and so I haven’t caulked it yet. I will caulk the base of the tile when it is done though. I also caulk to edges of the counter where it meets up against walls or cabinets. If you don’t have a backsplash you definitely want to caulk the back.
This video is AMAAAAAAZING! I’ve watched a few dozen and yours is by far the best! Thank you! I will have to cut my boards on the floor as well with a circular saw. I like your idea of using a piece of rigid foam, but there are so many types: 15psi, R-4, etc…. I know to get 2” though lol. What did you use? Thanks!
This looks great and helped me out a lot on how I am going to do mine. What kind of table saw blade did you use for those nice seamless gaps? It looked like a Freud blade but I am wondering if I should get the Freud glue line rip blade or the heavy duty Freud rip blade
I just have a high tooth (labeled for cutting plywood) Diablo blade on my table saw. Make sure your saw blade is exactly 90 degrees and keeping the jointed side flat agains the fence is more important than a fancy blade ;)
How are these holding up? I too want to use wooden countertops but the idea of constantly having to chase after them is what's keeping me at bay :( Did that sealer really lock the woof from letting water seep in if it sits for any reasonable length of time?
They look as good as the day I installed them, going on 2 years now. The only thing I pay attention to really is not putting hot pans directly on the wood. Everything else I use like any other countertop.
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@@HousefulofHandmade thanks for the reply! You may very well have just rekindled my desire for this style of countertop! 😁
The sealant has no heat protection that I am aware of. We have had this in place for around two years. Most days we run the dishwasher at least once. When the kids are home for the summer or if we have guests over it will get run a second time quite often. Absolutely zero warping in the wood.
Looks amazing! We’ve been looking for a sealer for our kitchen butcher block. Would you say the coating provide a waterproof seal? Or only water resistent? Also, could you list the exact products used? Thanks so much!
The coating is definitely waterproof. It creates a complete seal on the wood. The exact products I used are linked in the description. Start with the Tung Oil sealer and finish with the H2OLOX. All the tools and more are listed in the blog post.
All the products used as well as all the details are in the article I wrote. WaterLox is what I used to seal it, and the number of coats depends on the wood you use.
Okay so I watched dozens of these texted videos and I have every tool you guys are using except I don't have a planing machine period can I still do this job?
I have never heard anyone say that their wood counter tops have "looked good for years" without constantly having to worry about them staining, separating, warping and getting water damaged except for ones that are epoxy coated. I have see those in bars undamaged after years.
Well done but you’re not supposed to use waterlox h20 with a paint brush, use a paint applicator. I made this mistake my first time using it but watch the waterlox videos, it’ll explain a lot!
Thanks for your feedback. It worked perfectly for my application, could be that we have so much more humidity here. But good for others to hear your experience as well as mine.
exactly what I've been searching for for DAYS now I seriously wanted the dull or matte finish on our new install and this product looks perfect, thank you so much for posting so glad I came across your site, stay blessed!
Great video! Very informative, thinking of building my own desk and going to use this as a guide. I was wondering if you can stain it as well as use the waterlox sealer? Would you have to stain first, then finish it with the seal or are stains a sealer of there own. Never really done any DIY builds before. Thanks!
The fact that you did this all without a mitre saw makes me envy your back pain tolerance. A tip if you didnt know already, using a belt sander to put a slight bevel to a scribed edge makes a PERFECT fit!
We didn't have my shop set up yet after our recent move so working on the floor was my best option. Hoping I dont have to do that again! Thanks for the bevel tip, I have not done that yet but will for sure on my next scribed edge.
It was very amazing , congratulations for the strength of your will ! I met your channel today and I'm going to marathon all videos! hugs from Brazil :)
Wow! You are amazing. I just read your blog post about this. You are so detailed and thorough in your post. Thanks so much. Can you tell me about how long it took you to make these, start to finish? Thanks.
So glad it was helpful! Sometimes I feel like I write too much information ;). It took 2 full days to prep the wood, cut, glue-up, and cut to template. Then almost a week to get all the coats of sealer on it since you have to wait 24 hours between coats (but that only took about an hour each day).
Now that it's been 2 years now, have they held up, and would you do anything different, like change the wood type. I want to build something like this, but I don't know what kind of wood I need. I know Maple is very hard. I just got a quote today for one side of the countertops that I need for my place. It is 103 inches by 29 inches. They want 2,000 dollars for just one side of my countertops. So I'd be looking close to $3,500 for the two cuntom pieces. Which is nuts, in my opinion.
How has the finish held up long term? I'm doing butcher block counters and I'm close to being ready for finish, but I'm looking for a solid solution. Your counter looks great!
Gorgeous results, and a very inspiring video. You make this type of project seem very doable. I also do as you do by purchasing a new tool with the money saved.
I am interested in making a desk the same method as your counter top, I am also interested in the maple boards, you mentioned you used 6/4 boards, not sure what you mean, what is the width and is it a 4 inch thick board?? I am looking at 10 ft length?
The 6/4 refers to the thickness of the wood. It is rough sawn to 1 1/2 inches thick. At the lumber yard the boards come in varying widths and lengths in that thickness. I go into more detail about buying lumber at the lumber yard in my post linked in the details.
This was so empowering! I watched you in almost awed silence for the entirety of the vid, lol. Thank you so much. I know exactly what I have to do now, and more importantly, that I can
I am making my kitchen countertops now and I am planning on staining them to a nice brown color. If I want to seal them, can I use the same sealer you used in this video? If so, would the sequence be first the conditioner, then the stain, then your sealer? Would your sealer take away partially the color of the stain?
The quick answer is yes. I would test any stains with the sealer to make sure the colors end up how you want. Waterlox makes a bunch of stains to work awesome with their sealers. Here is a video I did all about it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X189dBff4W8.html
Very appreciative of the information provided. It really does look outstanding! Two questions that are not criticisms but educational (I hope ;-) ): 1. I think I missed this step - for the top that you made for the sink area, did you piece together a bunch of boards for the long rear section where the faucet is? Or, did you have one long board? If you connected a couple of pieces together, how was that accomplished - biscuits with pocket screws? I tried to focus on the section of the video where you were in the shop laying your boards under the cardboard template but I really can't tell if there is one board back there or multiple boards. 2. You indicated that your lumber yard planed the wood and ran one edge through the jointer. You show that you ran the boards through your own planer as well. Was that just to ensure proper thickness? Since you were putting multiple boards together, is there a reason why you only had one edge run through the jointer? Thanks. And again, great looking stuff.
Thank you for the kind words! 1. I specifically searched for a board long enough so I didn't have a seam at the sink. If this wasn't possible I probably would have used pocket holes and glue to get it nice and tight. 2. I had the lumber yard do one pass on the planer and used mine to get them all to an even thickness. The reason I had them run one edge through the jointer was to ensure I had 1 flat edge for cutting on my table saw. There are a lot more detailed instructions in the blog post housefulofhandmade.com/build-seal-wood-countertops/ Hope this helped!
I’ve watched so many videos on building wood counter top and when I started watching yours I couldn’t stop , you did a great job start to finish, ❤️❤️❤️❤️👍thank you
While I have not built my own worktops as the cost of the wood where I am far exceeds the cost of such tops prebuilt around here, I just wanted to say thanks for sharing as the beauty of your worktops convinced me to spend a little extra on my new kitchen install and go for beautiful Beachwood worktops rather than laminate. :o) Looking forward to sealing them :)
I have an 8 foot section and a 12 foot section of butcher block that I’m installing in a basement finishing project. I’ve used the waterlox UTOS on them and have the same H2OLOX Matte finisher to do next. But I’M very hesitant, because I am struggling to find a tool that I feel will do a good job. I know you used a foam brush and then a paint brush. The Waterlox website suggests using something different, like a stain pad type of tool, but those generally have tiny synthetic hairs that just keep falling out in the product despite using tape firstly to remove as many as possible. Did you use a paint brush for your second coat and just go on very liberal with the product? Any application tips for the H2OLOX would be greatly appreciated!
I used caulk to seal around the sink. I have all the details in the blog post I wrote if you are interested. housefulofhandmade.com/build-seal-wood-countertops/
