i also seen a amazing trick using magnets to move things outside the wtc wall without need for holes so there no risk of leaks. basically, a inside driveshaft spining a wheel with little magnets in it that attracts and spins another wheel with magnets outside the wtc to turn the prop. and rudder and dive planes use similar techniques but instead of rotation its a back and forwards movement. and if you keep the moving magnet parts hovering a little off the wtc wall there wont be any extra friction while still close enough to move the outside parts. brilliant!
Just a quick suggestion. Your mixing your dimensions mm and inches.... your international audience would appreciate it if you could list both imperial and metric :)
Thanks for the info. I was on submarine in the navy, built a 10 foot model of it, but had to let it go, shame. Question , where do you source those bushings? I went to Mc Master Carr and found them , but they do not give a dimension of the housing diameter of 11/32 for a size 3/16 shaft, only a 5/16 size. I am trying to build a tugboat stuffing box for a 3/16 shaft. I see you have PA as the source of the seals but not the bushings. Thanks you are a terifical builder.
Thank you for an excellent video. What is the max rpm that the shaft turn at using these seals ? Or perhaps a better question is what is a reasonable rpm that will not drastically shorten the lifespan of the seal ?
Depending on the scale, sub shafts should spin at between 2000 (big sub) to 5000 (small sub) rpm. These seals should be perfectly fine at almost any rpm you can throw at them (within reason, of course).
All your videos are excellent, but I´d like to know, ad I´d appreciate that, what are the electronic circuits you use to control leakage of water, faiil RF signal and low batery. Thank you.
There are electronic standalone modules to monitor water presence, battery voltage and loss of signal. All are listed for sale in the electronics section of my website.
This answered my question to myself on a sure way to seal my shaft BUT oh where calnI get a few of these cup seals? any help appreciated before I sink ( lol )
I offer them on my site at www.nautilusdrydocks.com. I also outlined the source in this video (which I'm sure you watched through in it's entirety, right? ;')
Dought you read anymore maybe someone can help me, I have a 1/4” SS metal shaft, what size tubing would I need to make a sealed bearing for my 1/4” shaft? Thanks
It depends completely on the seal you find for the 1/4" shaft. When you locate one, there will be an OD for it. The ID of your tubing has to interface tightly with it.
Hey, i think you make amazing builds. I myself would like to try making such models at some point, but the first thing that i'd like to know (from an expert :D ) is basically what kind of ranges & especially depths should i be aiming at with such builds? And what's the frequency you use for your RC? Keep up the cool builds man
We always sail our subs in fresh water , not salt water , that is important . I'm told , and have never tried it myself. That the radio will not work as well under salt water . I have not had any problems with going down to 6 feet under water and we sailing them within say 20 feet of us . In other words as far as we can see them . It's important not to use 2.4Ghz radio , it will not penetrate the water , being to high a frequency to do so. Here in Britain we can use either 27 Mhz or 40 mhz or in the USA 72 Mhz . Model submarines are tricky so and so's to build . They are not easy to get to work properly . I recommend that you join some sort of club that specializes in subs . Good luck !! :-)
No. Water molecules and alcohol molecules attract each other. Therefore, when water is added to alcohol, the molecules are attracted to each other and a solution of alcohol in water forms. The opposite happens with oil and water.
I haven't had the opportunity to destructively test the seals, but the cup seals are rated to over 10,000psi. The weak point is the interface between them and the brass tube. I would be surprised if they leaked before 5atm of pressure.
@@RCSubGuy for a low pressure application you can't beat the simplicity, the tolerance is as tight as possible while maintaining free rotation, the grease won't get washed out by the water, I've tested it and it works even if I squeeze the water at one end with my hand, water doesn't get through
I believe this video was your help... If it wasn't you need to be a lot more specific to why something isn't working or why this wasn't what you were looking for beyond vaguely asking for hlep... What size shaft are you using? if its bigger than the example of 1/8 that he gives you can probably just get away with upscaling the parts which you make the seals out of. eg. if you need a 1/4 inch shaft maybe start by looking for some 1/2 inch brass tubing and 1/4th hole cup fittings or whatever sizes will fit together with a bit of research. As RCSubGuy said in response to at least 2 other comments "A seal is a seal."
