Friend, a piece of advice and I hope you don't get annoyed! Laughter ..... Before applying the lines (cables) apply white glue between your fingers, applying some pressure. Thus, the thread lint disappears. On the other hand, I believe that the line will be a little more rigid, which will facilitate its manipulation. It could be beeswax but it has the drawback of making it difficult for the glue to adhere! A hug!
Not annoyed. Actually this is a good idea. I think the beeswax would be the better choice as PVA would make the thread stiffer and more difficult to get tight knots cleanly. (I could be wrong). However, I have used beeswax extensively in my fly tying and it does nto seem to affect the head cement used to finish off the fly. Though head cement is a laquer, I don't think the results would be different with CA. This is a great piece of advice.
Really appreciate your tips. My first time building and painting these ships (in the starter kit), and you no doubt saved me a lot of grief. Thank you!
My advice is to paint them while they are still in the plastic mouldings. No sweaty fingers on the painted bits and they are easy to touch up after you have clipped them out. This is especially true for the deck and the inside of the gunwales which when painted before assembly makes life so much easier. Before painting the elements in the mouldings, clip off the unnecessary sprues, eg leave the main sides just connected by the bottom sprues, etc. I prime in white and do the yellow banding as my first base coat. As you say adding the black afterwards is so much easier. Great series of videos, thank you
You are generally correct on white primer (I like light gray) but in the case of the "black ships" there is almost no yellow visible on the bridges so priming the hull black is better than white.
Thanks for the video have not began painting and think this will help me a lot hope you can put some more tips. Just bought the game and more ships. Have a great day!
Thanks! i already have a series of guides on rigging as well as one on the sails, one on the ratlines (which you should watch before you start rigging your ships) and one will be coming out on the flags next week. If you are looking for specific kinds of tips, let me know because I am open to suggestions.
Have you built the 1st Rate Resin/White metal ships? How do you run the rigging from the Bowsprit back to the hull like you did on the plastic frigates and 3rd Rates?
I have built the Santisima Trinidad and the Spanish 1st Rate. The way I do that is to drill a small hole on each side of the bowsprit where it meets the hull. the holes go all the wat to the bottom of the ship. I actually stat by treading each end of the rigging thread through each of the holes so it comes out above and then I ties them to the ends of each of the spritsail yards and tie off at the tip of the bowsprit.
@@DZSabreOkay, I was wondering. So I looked at Santisima and the other two 1st rates and the two Merchant ships. I'm thinking maybe if I am really careful I can use a large enough drill bit and drill up from the underside a little, then using a smaller drill bit Drill from the top down to where I drilled from underneath. I'll need to do that since the small drill bits are not long enough to reach from top to bottom of the ships hulls. Your thoughts? Also, just as an fyi, I use a needle threader for feeding the thread thru the holes so the depth of the hole will be crucial since the threader will also need to reach thru to the other side.
That's why you prime it in white. Then you don't have to paint yellow over the black. Didn't know about the rear sail so hopefully mine will still be a little bowed.. Have 6 Frigs and 11 Brigs to do. Will remember this on the larger ships.
Also can you tell me if there is a guide on colors for painting the models? Or in each box it came the colors I have to used, I want to make a complete ones as ghost ships , I want to play not as an historical way but more to have some fun in painting and playing.
This s an excellent question!!! The Warlord Art is not accurate from a historical perspective. I would recommend this link as a starting place as a painting guide. www.larsonweb.com/Transfer/Miniatures/Sail/NAPSHIPS.htm I also have a painting guide for my ships in a different video about the colors of the Spanish fleet.
Yes, those are valid approaches. It is possible if you have a punch small enough. You can cut the acetate as well to make a gap but your hobby knife skills need to be good and your knife sharp. Since the ratline piece must extend all the way down to the chainwale, it would not look good, in my opinion, to cut the acetate short and have the ratline stop at the gunwale above the cannons.
Thanks! I zoomed into warlords 3rd Rates and noticed the acetate had been cut to allow for cannons, I will try this approach on my next frigate. Posted pics in black seas fb group.
If you don't like modelbuilding, then Sails of Glory might be better but it all depends on how many players of each game are in your area and how well SoG is supported by the company.
please go look up how to paint yellow over black. there are many reasons why you want black primer and paint yellow. This been debate to death in warhammer community.
as you said, it is a debate and I have been following many miniature figure painters who have differing opinions. This is art so there is more than one right way to do it.
