Most people overlook the steering wheel, make sure you have less that 1/8” of play in the steering wheel or it may need to be adressed. Narrow fronts will wobble and can be dangerous af higher speeds due to steering play.
Perfect list. You didn't include the obvious like oil/coolant condition, because that of course goes without saying. Your five are what people over look all to often. Good job!
I was a farmer, I had to quit because of my health. We had a H, a super M both with the narrow front end and a 656, and a 966. We had a 715 combine too
Thank you for all of your helpful tips, info, and how-too's. The First Five was very helpful, and now I know. I recently bought a 1945 Farmall H with a front loader on it, for $800. I can't wait to dig into it and see what I've got. Again, Thanks
To add to if they have filled tires- I look around the valve stem to see how rusted or gone the wheel is. I do about the same as you described. Thanks for the info!
Good evening Farmall, I seen this video posted a few days ago and really wanted to watch it. I finally got around to it and you gave some valuable info my friend. Maybe you can put out a series of these videos telling people what to look for when buying a tractor. I know I would be interested in watching them.
Good work. In addition I would check the draw bar pin hole for excessive wear and perhaps a chance to see if the clutch will slip under load. And no tractor is going to be of much help without a functioning PTO along with a 3 point hitch or a model for which a 3 point hitch adapter kit is available .
On the old Farmalls, I always check the condition of the transmission oil. You would be surprised of how often the gear oil is nasty. Nasty gear oil means bearing troubles are a possibility.
Great video! Those gas tanks are really important! I haven't read every single comment, but there are some excellent points there too. Just to add my .02, I always look at the seat, especially on Farmalls, and especially if the tractor's been painted. I started doing this after a friend of mine had the seat on his H break. He went a** over teakettle while raking hay. Luckily he didn't get hurt too badly, a broken collar bone where the wheel on the rake went over it. But it could have been much worse, especially if there'd been a PTO shaft spinning back there! Old tractors can have the parts that secure the seat rust out, causing it to break, usually at the worst possible time. The letter-model Farmalls, of course, have seats that bounce up and down a lot, much more so than most other tractors. All that bouncing can eventually weaken support members. FWIW from an old guy who grew up with Farmalls.
Those are all great. The one I like the most is, walk up and feel the engine. If it is warm or hot you can just about bank on having starting problems. When I bought the IH-1086, that engine was ice cold, lol. I turned the key and it instantly started. I was sold. The same thing with the John Deere 6600 combine. The guy had a battery charger on it but it still started quick. Ok, so it needed 2 batteries, no biggie. Again great info.
Hey there! My son in law restores antique tractors in Ohio. He had one on the cover of a JD calendar and they put the actual tractor in the JD headquarters showroom for a time. Both he and my grandson farm, too. Farming is life! 💥 BOOM
That's a reason to look at the paint. If the paint is original, you can see any seepage and wear. If there's new paint, there's a few questions. Is it a QUALITY paint job?? Or does it look like they used spray cans to cover up defects. If they took the time to do a GOOD paint job, the mechanicals are likely good too.
Also check the amount of play in the steering in my farmalls the ones that have been worked a lot the steering always has lots of play in it I also like to check the oil pressure
@@FarmallFanatic my problem was the two bearings in the a column that it sits in, my tractor had so much play that you could fully spin the steering wheel 1 revolution in either direction before the wheels started, and it caused me to run through my boss's new high tinsel fence because it hit a rut while i was raking hay
Another great video from you Farmall, you know your red tractors well. Picked a great spring like day to do it. Have a great weekend my friend. BOOM!🇨🇦
Sweet looking H. I just found a Farmall A for sale $1200. It is not pretty Red though. It looks farm fresh. Lol turn on a dime get 9 cents back. Love it. Have a BLESSED day.
Great video man. Only thing I might ad in a top 5 list is looking at the radiator and coolant condition. Lot of the them seen water and paid the price for it. Thanks again man.
Yeah tell me about a bundle wrapped up in a tractor. I'll have 3000 in that super a demonstrator to get the showroom patina. Lol worth every damn dollar. I really am enjoying your recent videos on the farmalls.
I would look at all fluids. Radiator does it look like mud. Transmission is it overfull and milky. Engine oil is it black, or gassy. Hydraulic does it feel gritty. Differential is it milky, is it gritty. In our area rim valve stems. Chloride rusts out the valve stem holes. If you have to replace a tube with chloride could be $300 to $600 per tire.
had to rewatch this also. yes I agree they are important I would look for about 10 before I moved on, such as oil is there fuel in it? Air filter has it been cleaned or serviced? Electrical, connections clean and tight, worn cables, middle and connector ends rodent nests, do they all work? Major pieces in good condition? Since many are being scrapped or parted, so things may not be available anymore except from a salvage tractor. Lastly, Aux equip. Hyd, TA, PTO/Belt etc.
Very good tips there! Thanks for the video! You nailed some really important stuff! I always hate it when the engine is already warm when I get there, but, at the same time, I usually bring a tractor out from the shed before someone comes to look at it. I'm also pretty honest, and you really have to be if the whole tractor history is on youtube lol! Thanks for sharing! Have a good one!
The 282 is an excellent powerplant. I have one in my 560. Barely burns any fuel, and puts out good power. If they are properly maintained they start good down to about 25 with no ether and no block heater. Just have to have good glow plugs and injectors. I work the snot outta my 560 and she always takes it and asks for more. Also on any IH the TA is the first thing I check because they are super expensive to do right.
Farmall Fanatic Ive never been around a 656, so I cant speak for those. I have been around a very poorly maintained 706 with a 282 and it was a cold blooded pig.
Dont be afraid if they dont start as long as they turn over. My brother and I picked up a M that had been sitting outside for 15 years, new gas and a battery and it runs good. I recently picked up a super c couldn't get it to turn over, new battery and gas and it's good to go.
I have 3 things to look for. Paint and body condition, mechanical operation, and rubbers. If 2 of the 3 aren't good then the price better be right. I like the 282. I've even thought about putting one in a truck. The operator just needs to know the nature of the beast.
For some strange reason, 282 in the 560 tractor seemed to be a better engine then the one they put in the 656… and I don't know why that is, but that's just from my statistical gathering.
One thing to watch out for that is a deal breaker is look under the rear axle for welds. The bull gears on Ms and Hs and others run through a shallow cut in bottom of the rear end and if anything hard ran through there it will bust out the casting. There's no room under the gear. This means a bearing came apart or a gear tooth broke that maybe got fixed or maybe not. Safe to say it was really worn out before that happened.
Ballast in rear tires-necessary when pulling load and minimizing tire slippage[keeping lugs on tires].Never test drove any of the tractors i bought. they did not run.282 IHC engine is la nova style diesel- had energy cells,old first style of diesels,lower compression ratio.When i was working at IHC dealership ,cust brought a 656 that he worked on. said he replaced batteries and it started without using glow plugs.He was right -he removed 2 six volt batteries,replaced them with 2 twelve volt batteries, and it spun over so fast, you did not need glow plugs.amazing what 24vdc can do!
Another tip is to turn on the tractor then turn it off and cycle it again, checks if any flywheel teeth are broken. Bought a truck like that, it only turned on once then the damn ring gear teeth where all stripped. Didn't find out till I stalled out in the middle of an intersection. Not so common on tractors buy still... might help someone. Cobgrats on the 11k
An engine, when shut off, will naturally coast to a stop in the same position every time. One trick is to hold the brake and let out the clutch before it can come to a complete stop. That way the starter drive hits different spots instead of the same one every time.
I always have a tendency to look the engine block over for any patches specially on the sides and undercarriage. Not sure if I need to do this or not but it’s something my grandpa always told me to watch out for!
I appreciate your knowledgeable insight on your videos. I noticed the H in this video has a very similar font end as my 1946 W4. Is there a instructional video you could share on adjusting it back shortening the wheel base ?
You can make very long videos on RU-vid. I think you just have to be "verified" and keep an eye on file size. A possibly better solution would be to do a video series and put them in a playlist with each video being roughly 10-15 minutes long. Maybe section the videos off by area on the tractor to look into. In my area, old tractors are getting expensive. Used to be you could find a decent used old tractor for around $1K or so. Now, that same tractor in the same condition is selling for $5K or so. They're also getting harder to find. I would love one, but even if I found one with a reasonable price in reasonable condition, I have no way to transport it. My little truck can tow about 1000 pounds total lol. Everyone I know with a truck that may be willing to let me use it or tow it for me only have light-duty trucks and towing an old tractor would be sketchy as you know what with one of those. I've seen people do it, but I wouldn't risk it.
I can tell that you have different ideas than I do. We buy tractors of all states of repair, some to fix, some for parts, and some that are in good condition. The leaks part, I pay no attention to. Rubber is important, you're right, but yours is a simplified guide to those who aren't overly mechanically inclined. I look at originality, and sheet metal condition. Not all tractors are equal. There's nothing special about a 1949 H, and you must bear that in mind on what you pay for it and what condition it is in. If the tractor was a 1953 H with disc brakes, that changes the story entirely, because they only made a few. A 1939 H is also sought after. You can afford to put in more. In the next month, we're going to put an International 650 gas in the shop. It was seized, we bought it from a wrecker with pieces missing, although we did get the hood. It's going to take the parts of other old tractors to make a good one and we got a parts Diesel, as well W-9s to help make that tractor up. No tires were on it either. However, 650 gas tractors have 2 digit production numbers. A 49 H in that condition is usually a parts tractor. Not always. If you found a 49H that is the consecutive serial number mate to yours it may well be worth fixing it up. Having twins is worth much more than 2 single tractors. The tractor you're fixing up isn't only worth more but the tractor you have is also worth more.
282d engine is a great powerplant, ran them and owned them for years in 706, 656 and 560. In my opinion great tractors for hay and light farm work. Any tractor with a good 282 is superior to a letter series farmall. Maintenance is key to any machine in any field.
I agree German 310 is a good one too dad had one back in the 80s, cool looking flame out the stack working bottom ground all day long. Power toooo spare💪 like your videos👍 just caught you knocking the 282d everyone has there bad experiences, kinda gives you a sour face and chapped rear. Lol
@@FarmallFanatic well I kinda disagree, I have had a couple that were hard to start but it is not the engines fault. As long as they are maintained right, that is good clean injectors, good fuel flow and working glowplugs should not have a problem. I have 2 560s and dad has 3 706s all 282s. We don't have any starting trouble, they start a lot better than my fatherinlaws 4020s.
I try not to buy a paint job. Chrome don't getcha home. Look for slack in the steering wheel. The early H and Ms.had the crap ran out of them during the war because nobody could get a new one till about 48. Corn picker tractors are sometimes good because they souped them up a little and fixed everything then left the picker on there so they didn't plow any after that. Some they put " picker gear" low gear in the transmission. Or an M-W clutch. Nice!
Really great tips ! I would check the pto and how fast the hydraulics to the 3pt go up if it has them . Anther is can you get parts. I bought a 1961 John Deere 2010 that was a big piece of crap and had a hard time getting parts . I have hard time getting parts for my Hinomoto .
New friend to your channel I Love antique tractors they are awsome I grew up in a farm town and now a lot of those farmers have beautiful all tractors.. Thank you for sharing this video I look forward to watching more of yours please take a moment to stop by my channel show me some love click that red button and become my friend and thank you again and have an amazing Mama's Little lambs
I haven't watched it yet, my list would be some might say no. #1 would be tires & rims but my take is check by rapping on the tire all the way to the top & if there the same hollow sound, from 1/2 way, then 3/4 and especially the top. there probably not loaded. Because "if there loaded", it takes a $50 to 75 dollar to buy a 12v pump, and 35 gallon to 50 gallon, Polyethylene/ plastic barrel could cost $50 dollars, too. The other thing is people these days use metal, (wheel weight's) by adding up to 4 per side. SO I'm saying tires with cracks can last a long time. It's a gamble. At least with out fluid for weight, there easy to work on "if", you own a manual ($100 dollar bead breaker) slam hammer and a couple tire irons & know!! the rule that rubber doesn't stretch.. the rest is don't buy a farmall h in the winter, In the Midwest. The cold seems to hide the small bit of antifreeze getting in the combustion area and in the summer makes that grey smoke, I hate. The winter cold hides that I think I might be wrong . Could be every time i get home with one , then they go out, Coincidence. I don't know. SO IT WOULD BE 1# Tires/ 2# quiet Tranny that says in gear a must #3 engine that doesn't smoke, 4# steering tight or not 5# gas tank clean
I go a little further on the gas tank . Pull the cap off and look at the bottom of the cap for rust and moisture .stick your finger inside the tank and rub the top inside see if there's any rust on your finger. Also check the sediment blow for water and rust. But I wouldn't buy that tractor just because of the front end. I like wide front fronts but not that style,looks like a rear end off an international combine .it just looks wrong, should have regular wide front that sets under the radiator. That one sets too far forward, I have seen that wide front snap off the tractor if it hit a hole or dropped in a ditch in a field.
Tks for info. If the parts were not so expensive. Ppl could still work them.ppl who really need a good tractor.Maby to help feed the family. Pull ah stump. The parts ppl.are just too greedy for me. Let them go to scrap, Take the parts put them in their shade.
I'm looking at a Farmall H. It looks like yours. Motor is seized up. Tires look good metal is all there and straight. What's it worth ? Paint is sun faded.
Clutch tells a lot. Instead of brakes for me is transmission. Do all the gears work stay in gear make noise of any kind besides gear whine. Grumbling grinding oil level or bumping with a missing tooth. Has the pto been changed to live. Has it sat outside for 50 years or more.
