Thx for the video. Changed out my water pump today with your help. Hardest part was loosening the fan. Had to use a fan removal tool that I rented from the auto part store and I didn’t have a giant wrench. Thanks again. Great detail
Before I took the fan off I would slide a piece of card board down behind the fan shroud so I didn't gouge the radiator. For me I would need a couple guide bolts when Installing the water pump. Also I've had leaks at the thermostat housing ,after replacing with a billot aluminum housing that cured the leaks. I'm sure everyone has there own procedures but I think you did a great job of explaining what you was doing. Thanks
I replaced my water pump with a Navistar pump from Diesel O-Rings. I upgraded the thermostat housing and outlet with billet aluminum items from Riff Raff Diesel. Both are great sources for 7.3 parts.
All that you're replacing the original clamps. I've used those time and time again on European cars. Is there something about the Ford ones that they corrode or something? With the right little tool to undo those they're much faster and more reliable then the hose-eater clamps you were using.
I’ve had them fail several times. Especially ones that are 25 years old and have been removed and replaced several times. Also, up here in the Midwest we get lots of rust to where they rot off… so, going with a new clamp assures that won’t be a problem.
I have a 1997 7.3l. I drained the system last night and got about 5-6 gallons out of it. It drained for about an hour and stopped dripping. When I took off the old water pump about 2 more gallons came out from the engine. Did I do something wrong? Also, if you refill with cap off does that help burp the system?
Sounds like you might’ve just had an air bubble stuck in there that held some antifreeze back. And yes, if you refill the system and then start it up and let it run a while with the cap off it helps get the air out of the system. Then drive around the block a few times going up and down some hills and bring it back home and shut it off and let it sit for about an hour or two to cool down on level and top it back off again. And then drive it for a week and see if it needs anymore.
great video. very helpful, but, man, you're totally misusing the word cavitated. Cavitation is basically bubbling in a fluid going through a pump. The rough flow can wear away at the surfaces around it.
@@badsanta518 Cavitation has multiple definitions, including the formation of vapor bubbles in liquids, the wearing away of solid surfaces, and the formation of cavities in organs or tissues: Vapor bubbles in liquids Cavitation is the process of forming vapor bubbles in a liquid at low pressure regions. This can happen when a liquid is accelerated to high velocities, such as in water turbines, centrifugal pumps, and marine propellers. Cavitation can also occur when a high-intensity ultrasonic wave causes gas pockets to expand and collapse, generating high stresses in the liquid. This is known as ultrasonic cavitation. Cavitation can cause structural damage to propellers and pumps, and can sound like a pump is full of gravel, marbles, or rocks. Wearing away of solid surfaces Cavitation can also cause solid surfaces, such as concrete or metal, to pit and wear away as the vacuums in the surrounding liquid collapse. Cavities in organs or tissues Cavitation can also refer to the formation of cavities in organs or tissues, especially during disease. In embryology, cavitation is the formation of the blastocoel, a fluid-filled cavity that defines the blastula or blastocyst.
@@badsanta518 would you rather I waste my time explaining the definition to you in my own words rather than sending the correct definition? Also, erosion is a process or action. It’s not the result. “Eroded” is the result of erosion. You’re batting 1000 tonight. And once again, I used the word “cavitated” or “cavitation” correctly.
