I’m a trucker and circumstances make myself self a mechanic too, sometimes the shop are very crowded and no time to loose, thanks again brother for letting me know how to doit with safety first,
Thanks Adam I'm a self contractor, i do undecking and like to see videos like this so I can have more knowledge of how to do things even though I'm not a professional mechanic i like to have the knowledge and skills. Thanks on not forwarding fast like other videos does, you go slow and explaining on details, i really appreciate it, you're the best 🤜🏾🤛🏾 keep the hard job on teaching.
I’m no mechanic but am working a new parts job for peterbilt with no prior knowledge and these videos have helped me understand what these parts are, where they are, and what they do. Thanks!
I overhauled my engine in this shop in 2022, spent 50 thousand dollars on my and first month engine broke parts inside, every month my truck was in the shop for leaks, and broken parts, after a year the engine still burn one gallon oil every 15k miles, totally regret overhauling in this shop
Glad to see you back either Spanish or English I enjoy your videos I'm the one who requested the video about your tools thank you again boss keep the hard work
Been a driver 5 yrs. Bought first truck a year ago. Done a few jobs mechanic side myself. About to do this but interesting enough I starting to want to switch sides...
Hmmm on the road I do it different, sometimes the roll pins are frozen and I hv to cut the clevis or the slack adjuster has to come off and work it loose on vise, so at time I split the brake chamber to avoid all that. Back back in the day we use to replace diaphragms on the side of the road
Solid video, excellent camera angles, plenty of knowledge. A+ brother. Just to be funny here though.. it's not "Carter pin" it's Cotter pin" hahahaha but for real, keep those videos rolling out, you're doing great.
xtra deep socket for the caging bolt, got one off the tool truck. Gotta make sure a guy get the right size clevis and pin size, there is bushings ya can get for that....important , otherwise they are out of sync with the other brakes 😉 Thanks for the vid, be well! PS: love them Gray lifts you got....$$$
When i replaced the brake chamber on the trailer what i did was: Release the brakes, back off the slack adjuster all the way and then pull the red line and then take off the hoses. Vise versa for installing. Can i do the same on the truck ? i miss understand that part thank you
What the heck do you do if you don't have them Jack's. I have been driving a truck for over 30 years and I have never been in a shop that had Jack's like that. It's mostly done on the ground.
You cut the length fully released !!! The way your doing it means the brake will require more pressure to apply the brake !!!!! Cause the pushrod is under more spring pressure. Screw in a air fitting to the spring break side to help compress the brake chamber before using the caging bolt (makes it easier to do.
*****🇺🇸🎼🎸🎤We like T new equipment 🤗 is more safety N easier 2 work 🥰 have space 2 move around more complicated 😇Tks TAT 4 another safe work video 👼🏻UR upgrade with technology 4T new trucks their R here already 🙏🏽🥁🎹🎶🇺🇸*****
Im still learning how to do chambers but i was always told to never taking the caging bolt out once its off the truck is that true? They always said u take a risk of it exploding and i also was told to make my measurements with the chamber fully caged and then cage the new one before i cut….. any insight u could give me on this would help.
If its totally safe to remove the caging bolt from the chamber once u have it off the truck im going to start doing it because the cutting process i was taught confuses the hell out of me lol
@@TuggSpeedman_ Its relatively safe if the housing and the clamps are in good shape. Those parking brake spring are no joke though. Id advise doing it how you where taught and also understand that the cage bolt should be reinstalled until the parking brake spring is cut for disposal. They can kill.
@@TuggSpeedman_ This is the right way. It sets the brake up properly so that it will minimize strain on the mechanism while maximizing braking potential. You never know what idiot replaced the chamber last so its good to make sure its right. I even have got a copy in a binder in my toolbox for reference. www.cbsparts.ca/admin/bulletins/PUSH%20ROD%20CUTTING%20PROCEDURE.pdf
Great content. Why did you have a chain over the axle and what was it connected to ?. Please explain the process . I am getting ready to change all 4 cans on mine for the first time and I do have lifts /
The chain is put on before the vehicle is raised up. Chain goes around axle to the frame. Keeps the axle from sagging and putting strain on the suspension. The axle he worked on was not under the lift.
I am confident in my abilities to replace a brake chamber or even just replacing the diaphragm but I know what damage those brake chamber can do so if I can help it I'd much rather let a shop tech do it because for lack of better terms, once the brake is caged essentially you have created an IED lmao so I really dont like messing with em but I can if I have to especially when doing just the diaphragm or "clocking" the air ports
Its more of an IED without the cage bolt especially if you drop it on one of the ears of the clamp and they separate had one fly 45ft once and it was worn out.
