Yes, you are right. Had that argument with my wife years ago, and she was right. However, I use discretion. If I think it needs a different psi I go with my gut. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.
Oct. 25, 2020----Thanks for the video as I didn't know a spare would be carried under the frame. Is this common on class C's? From what I've seen on class A's, their either in storage bin or on the back part of it. Comments welcomed about this as I'm looking at buy a USED class A. No plans of rv'ing full time, mainly for staying with family north of Tampa, Florida up to 4 weeks at a time and several times a year. Or going fishing to Marysville/Yuba City or east of Reno where I live Drove truck for 15 years (now retired), but before that, worked as yard dog for a produce company cleaning out trailers, refueling the reefers, etc. This also included changing tires on the trucks & trailers. You don't need to use a hydraulic jack to lift an axle when the outside tire is the one needing changing. That's if you have 4 tires on the back end like yours. Get a 6x6 or a 12x12 inch board 3 long, then if you want, make an angled cut on one end. Put it in front of the inside front tire and slowly pull forward, then stop. This way you'll have a few inches of ground clearance for the outside tire to be removed/replaced. Yeah, brute strength will raise your tire to install it, but I used 2, four foot long pry bars which made life a lot easier. Especially when I'd have to do up to 4 tires on a trailer. Imagine having to screw with a jack when you're in snow for example. Also, anyone out there ever have to chain up because you had no choice? What voltage is your impact drill? This is something I NEVER thought would be useful because it was battery operated. I'd been using air driven ones during my time. Checked Harbor Freight and their off brand ones are going for $300, including tax. But Evilbay has the 18 volt Milwaukee ones going for $170 w/free shipping. I can already see this is a hell of a lot better than using a lug nut wrench on my personal vehicles.
Yes a lot of class C motor homes have it bolted underneath with a chain or a cage. Class A motor homes usually don't carry a spare. Those are the tour bus type motor homes. If I owned an RV I would mount the spare on the back. I would also mount two spares. You sometimes need two spares. I would rather carry two and need one than carry one and need two. Also the ramp idea to lift the outside tire. Yes, that is a great one. I usually have a Trailer Aid Ramp with me. That's the little yellow ramps on Amazon. They work great. As you mentioned you can make them also out of wood. The problem for me is I only have so much room in my work car that I often don't carry the ramp. That impact is a Milwaukee 18 volt. You can buy that from Home Depot online for $250. It is the best impact on the market. I had a Snap On before this and the Milwaukee out performs that Snap On by a huge margin. It has 1400 pounds of torque. You can change a semi wheel with this impact. Harbor Frieght is great for tools. All except electronics. Never buy a drill from them. That's wasting money and causing aggravation. Anyhow, hope you get an RV and come down. I live near Tampa so we can be neighbors. Thanks for watching. Take care friend.
I’ve been searching the web for info about the inner wheels and you mentioned the name, “dowel pin” .? So im finally getting closer... i need to know if i should have two spare wheels/tires 1 with the dowel pin. Any ideas?
I upgraded to the Milwaukee inflator. Sold at Home Depot also. The Ryobi kept breaking. I kept returning them under warranty until they stopped making them. The Milwaukee is way better. Thanks for watching.
Wish I had watched this before ordering a rear spare mount. Didn't realize I should have been looking underneath for a spot to put the extra that was just rolling around in the rig I got.
@@roadsideguy5902 ok or I can dig a hole to put bottle back in to get it low enough lol Hope I never have to do this. Bringing a big heavy floor jack nust seemed to be a pain although a flat tire is more of a pain but I’ll leave floor jack at home
Remove the outer wheel and then the inner wheel will come off. Sometimes they have dowel pens with a certain whole next to the lugnat hole on the rim. Make sure to align this dowel hole with the double pin.
Absolutely Mr. Butler however the correct torque specs on an RV are nowhere near 450. You are thinking of a semi truck. An RV usually requires somewhere around 75 - 150 lbs depending on what class. A person could actually change most c class motor home wheels by hand. Nothing to it. That Milwaukee 1/2 Is capable of 1400 pounds of torque. It's the strongest impact on the market. The only cordless impact that I know of capable of changing a semi wheel. It comes with 4 settings. When I am installing a wheel I use setting number 2 which gives it enough torque without over torquing it. If I use setting number 3 I would over torque the lug nuts. But let's say you have a log not that will not come off setting number 3 is sure to get it off. I've never had a log not not come off. This impact is twice as strong as my last snap on half inch impact.
@@roadsideguy5902 The difference is between 19.5" wheels and 22'5" wheels. The torque is 150 for the 19s, but it jumps to 450 for the 22s. My point was, that you didn't mention torque and did show using a torque wrench. Unfortunately, my RV has the larger wheels and requires the higher torque.
My E450 requires 140 foot pounds, for lug nuts with washers, and I always torque properly. I'm always surprised by people, even in the repair business, that don't know how to use a torque wrench.
It would be impossible for anything to happen so yeah with two wheels bolted on why wouldn't I? What's so funny? How else you gunna let the jack down? You got Go Go Gadget arms?
Thanks Bro I don't know how I'm going to get that spare tire down I don't have the strength to hold it up while I'm doing the bolt stupid design stupid design
Worst spare tire storage method I've ever seen. I guess that's why you didn't show putting the tire back in there. The spare was also upside down so it couldn't have the pressure checked. You didn't align the tire valve stems at 180 degrees.
You never mentioned safety. No safety glasses. Those cute little latex gloves might keep you from getting dirty, but not from getting injured. I keep 2 reflective high vis vests in every vehicle. You didn't chock the other tires. You put the tire on with your legs under the motor home. If a semi comes by and blows it off the small area on top of that bottle jack, especially with NO chocks and NO safety blocks, you'll be a paraplegic. (Neighbor "Hey RG. Hows it going?" You, " Oh, I can't kick.") You didn't torque the nuts. I don't care what a tool manuf. says.Most people don't know how to use a torque wrench correctly, not even in tire shops. In reality, you have no idea how tight they are. Also, I put anti seize on the hub where the wheels ride and on the mating surfaces between the wheels and on the hub or you may find you can't get the wheels off when they're rusted to the hub and each other. (NEVER lubricate the nuts or studs) Check the torque after driving 50 or 100 miles, especially if you have alloy wheels. You also did this under ideal conditions. It's likely that in real life the motor home will be sitting significant lower to the ground. This may make getting the spare out much more difficult,if not impossible and the jack may not fit under the axle. I think I'll stick with my methods.
@@Eec2023 Ok, genius, when should someone decide to do things safely if not while INSTRUCTING? And where do you think 99.9% of spare tires are installed? Flat and level driveways? This guy has no business teaching how to install a spare tire. Furthermore, OSHA does not regulate private individuals and apparently neither does common sense. Jeez
