I have an ‘06 A6 3.2L Quattro that I got for the demolition derby. It had a transmission seal leak which I’ve been told is common in these. The car didn’t shift because it sat for a year and the fluid all leaked out. So this video came in handy refilling it. Side note: these things are a nightmare to strip and work on. Never again 😂
So today is the 2nd time I'm refreshing both the fluid & the filter in my 2005 C5 2.7T allroad.. I did not need to use VagCom nor do I anticipate needing it today. The C5 is up on jack stands & level. Bentley manual says 3.5 to 4 qurts to refill...Refilling is tedious.. Fill till it runs out, reinstall fill plug. Run motor to operating temperature. shift transmission thru all gears. Turn motor off, remove fill plug reinsert filling nozzle & top off until full. Now restart motor & continue filling until spilling out. Remove filler nozzle install fill plug & you should be done for now.. Go drive for 100 miles & rehoist car level to check level. Remove filler plug, insert filler hose & refill until overspill. Start motor & repeat refilling when running until it spills out.. Reinstall filler plug, torque to specs & lower car & drive.. I would check level once more in bout 250-300 miles, This will also let you know if you've installed the pan & gasket & torqued correctly so no leaks.. Do Not Over Torque these bolts on either the transmission pan or the motor oil pan. 1st time on the oil pan I snapped 2 screw/bolts. Luckily Audi anticipated this so the screw/bolt holes are deeper than the pan bolts so you'll shear the head off but once you remove the pan, there's enough of the screw/ bolt left to easily remove it with small locking plyers.. ( So do no do this unless you enjoy removing 27 little torx screw/bolts... Torque settings for the 2 atf filter ( C5's trans filter is held in by 2 screws ) screws is 5nm or 44 in lbs. Fluid pan screws to transmission is 10 nm or 7 ft lbs.. ( Be careful to not confuse inch lbs with foot lbs If you tighten with foot lbs instead of inch lbs you will snap off the screw/bolts ) Drain plug is 12nm or 9 ft lbs.. So have fun Y'all..
I have an Audi A6 2009 2.0 TDI Automatic C6 engine and the car jerks and stalls on hill starts and also when driving on around 100 kmph i feel some jerks and i can see my rpm go down and up for half a second . What could be the issue ? I went to a mechanic and he said the gearbox oil was a little low and he toped it up fully to see if that will make any difference but unfortunately it is the same. Couod transmission/gearbox oil be the cause of the stalls and jerks? Any suggestions? Thanks
If I understood correctly, the procedure starts like this. 1. Heat the oil in the gearbox. 2. Drain the old oil and remove the oil pan. 3. Change the filter, clean the oil pan and magnets of dirt. 4. Return everything to its place and then add oil to the limit. 5. Start the car, put it in each gear, then while the car is still running, add oil again until the limits. Is that all? If I have the right oil and do everything as I stated, do I need to do something on the computer system? I have 2.7TDI quattro with 09L 6HP Gearbox!
@@NIKARTIST89 where are you located? I found some shipping from USA and from the UK. Here is the USA link - ebay.us/ERhtB4 & here is the UK link - ebay.us/TqHcx7 Hopefully that helps!
Hi! I have A6 2.7 tdi quattro 2009 6hp19a I should make oil change but what to use ZF6 or ZF8? OEM part number is G 060 162 A2 so it ZF8 but still i'm not sure Please tell me!
i did put ZF8 into my 2007 audi C6 4F 3.0 TDI and got already 30000 km on this oil and works very smooth all the time.... i wasnt sure if i am filling it with right oil, because i found informations i should have ZF7, but seller recommended ZF8. I also found information that these oils should be not mixed together.. Also one mechanic told me if old oil was orange i should go for ZF6 because ZF8 is more blue or green.... Old oil was more to orange but it was also old... I removed as much old oil as i could and replace with ZF8 and my transmission is doing great, that is what i wanted to say.
Hi Cole. I got the transmission pan cleaned and re-installed. Just waiting on the ZF LifeGuard 6 to re-fill. I too purchased the wrong oil. Also, I was looking into the major engine oil leak I have. It looks like the leak is right below the coolant bottle, adjacent the oil pressure sensor. The timing chain covers seem to be okay and the sensor doesn't appear to be leaking. Also th oil filter housing seems to be okay as well. I have the cam girdle seal leaks in the spark plug holes but I do not see the oil coming from there. I figured I would ask you since you probably know this engine like the back of your hand. I saw one youtuber re-sealed the pcv gasket oil/coolant exchanger in the valley of the engine. Please let me know your thoughts. Speak with you soon.
Yeah the PCV valve is a common leak. Hard to say exactly without seeing it. There is a few places it could leak right there. Always trace the oil from the highest point.
Hi, what seconds do you keep cycling each gear and do you wait specific operating fluid temp or just start te car wait 30 sec and start cycling trough the gears?
If you have a tool to watch the Temps definitely do it that way. If not, just cycle through each gear for about 15-20 seconds, wait for it to warm up, then check fluid level while vehicle is running
Hi Cole it's Mike again. I started draining the transmission fluid on my 2005 audi a6 3.2 quattro. It looks like the dealer serviced it once before. I can tell from the gasket sealer they used to adhere the paper gasket in place. Here's my dilemma. I purchased from Blauparts Ravenol ATF 8 - Audi A6 ATF Transmission Fluid Change Kit - 2005-08 - 6 Spd Update Fill Paper. While the tranny oil is dark brown I can clearly see they used the original tan oil. The updated one I have I believe is green. They say there is a TSB to update the oil if you have a shudder which we do. I will also have to also do the the TCU software update. GM, Ford and I guess VW all came out with better Tranny fluid as the years went on. Maybe the viscosity is better. The question I have is do you think I should upgrade to the new ATF 8? There will still be the old ATF 6 in the torque converter and throughout the transmission body. I read you can go up to the newer transmission fluids but you cannot take a new tranny and go backwards with the fluids. What do you think?
Hi Mike. I would NOT risk mixing the 2 and heard a lot of horror stories with Ravenal. I would only stick with the Lifeguard 6 and avoid the update. To many people had problems after the update with their trans shuddering and having issues. Not worth the risk in my opinion
@@Mechani_Cole I'm going to have to look around tomorrow for the Lifeguard 6. We were having alot of rough shifting cold. If the tranny goes back to normal with the flush and filter change I was going to look into fixing the engine oil leaks.
hey man, I’m doing over the weekend & I have a question about the transmission fluid. I have a 2009 Audi S5 4.2L V8 with a 6spd tiptronic transmission. The tag in my trunk is absolutely gone so I can’t tell. But would I be using the ZF6 or ZF8 fluid?
Im about ready to give this a go myself.... doesn't seem terribly involved. I have a 2008 A6 with the 4.2. Like you i doubt the ATF has ever been changed , ive owned it since about 60k miles and now touching the 155k mark and was told like many its lifetime fluid doesnt need to be changed which is bull lol nothing is lifetime. My question is you said 08 they changed the fluid color. How would i tell if its blue/green if its got 150k miles on it? im sure its going to come out black like yours. Also lastly I use OBDeleven, can you monitor trans temp with that? And how do i check trans software version to see if its been flashed etc? Great video and thanks for any feedback.
When you pull the fluid out and put some in a clear container and shine a light on it you can tell if it's blue or green. I imagine you have/need the blue Lifeguard fluid. Obd11 should work ok, never used it myself. Not sure how to check if the software has been updated or not myself.
Thanks and good question! I did not consider anything other than the OEM fluid or the Lifeguard fluid. Went with Lifeguard since it's made by ZF, the maker of our transmissions. There is way to many horror stories in the forums of folks using other "approved" fluids in their Audi and causing the transmission to slip, fail or shudder. I'll likely stick to this fluid unless there was some convincing evidence.
How much fluid did you end up using? I'm wondering if I should buy 5 or 6 liters. I'm also planning on using Liqui Moly top tec 1800. I would prefer Lifeguard ZF 8 because its the closest thing to OEM but Its out of stock on rock auto and I'm not paying $20 per liter on other sites when LM is only $9. I trust Liqui Moly with their other products so I'm not too worried about it.
@@Mechani_Cole I checked the links but I'd rather get LM for cheaper. Rock auto has ZF 8 for $12 a liter which is the best price I could find but they only have 2 liters left in stock
@@Mechani_Cole I just got done with the job yesterday and it's driving smooth so far. One thing had to go wrong of course and it was one of the bolts on the drain pan. The last bolt I was taking off close to the the fill plug had something directly below it that made it extremely hard to remove. I think it was a mount that held the transmission into place I'm not sure exactly what it was but It forced me to go at the bolt at an angle and I ended up stripping the hell out of it. I blame myself completely, If i was patient and looked into taking that mount off and getting a better position on the bolt I would have been ok. I ended up skipping the filter change and just changed the fluid. I only used 3.5 liters out of the 6 I bought, I was skeptical so I kept cycling the gears and giving it time to take in more fluid so I can try filling it more but it wouldn't take anymore so that was it. I'm thinking it was because I didn't change the filter and I also didn't jack the car up from the back to drain more, I was out of patience at that point.
Hello, I HAVE 2008 Audi a6 3.0 tdi quattro, have zf 6 speed transmission and 250.000km, and Up to now the fluid is not changed, do you think that it will be beter to change now, or is it risky, I asked to zf local dealer, they check with little transmiission oil from my car and they Said that do not change from now on , what is your opinion ?
Not related but I don't know where else to ask. On the front of intake manifold of A6 C6 quattro 3.2L there is a solenoid and an actuator which control the upper intake manifold runner flaps. Under idle condition, should the actuator actually pull in its lever, presumably opening up the flaps? If I pull the plug on the solenoid, then the actuator goes back to its "relaxed" state, i.e. flaps in the rest position.
@@Mechani_Cole That's my understanding, but I am observing something different. Idling, no gas, the actuator has its lever/control arm at least partially pulled in. If I pull the plug on the solenoid then the actuator extends the arm back to its rest position (when the engine is not running). It strikes me as not normal. Why would voltage be applied if I am not pressing gas? Doesn't seem right. The solenoid on the back of the IM only opens up at around 3800rpm. I tested two solenoids with same behavior, so it seems to be coming from the ECM.
Resting and running position should have a small difference I believe. Are these the ones that have the vacuum lines going to them as well. Are you getting any codes? Why are you there again? Sorry if I missed that part
@@Mechani_Cole The solenoid sits in between the intake manifold vacuum and the actuator. When the solenoid opens the IM vacuum is applied to the actuator, which pulls in its arm, thus rotating plastic gears, and opening up the flaps. My general problem is rough idle, very poor fuel economy, and occasional EPC light with traction. I have been chasing this problem for a while.
Yes, you should be able to use the Bluetooth adapter linked in the video that's only about $20. Add a chart in the app for trans Temps and you can watch it through your phone. Super helpful!
Have you worked on a Audi a8 before since the 4.2 is the same as the c6? Well I have a issue with my prnds lit in red and it won’t shift manually The automatic works there is no limp mode but the car does lag acceleration Any tips??
1:36 I'm not slandering them, but I've had a few issues with FCP Euro sending me some wrong items as well. Ordered an oil filter seal for the A6, and they sent me one for a Porsche Cayenne. Then later on I actually bought a Porsche 911, and they sent me the wrong shims for the rear brake pads. I would advise anyone to double-check and compare parts from them.
@@Mechani_Cole don't have to get every last drop of old trans fluid out to make a difference. On sold older volvos for example it is suggested to change the fluid half a liter at a time, prevents slippage.
Sure, but just let the pan drain and refill that amount in my opinion. That will still barely be 40-50%of the fluid. But there's a dozen ways to do things so either way, wouldn't hurt
No, because with driving over time you've probably lost some capacity so you want to fill back up to required fluid amounts. 1 out / 1 in is not going to match.
@ryanhansen8312 it's been the best decision ever made. I was cleaning my pool in a t shirt yesterday. The summers are a little much, but it's just 2 months out of the year instead of 9 months of rain haha
I need to do this. I'm in Vegas. Love your videos, super informative and enjoyable. Dangerous though because you make it look easy. LMK if your available for side work.
Edited videos make everything look so easy. Problem with this job is how messy it can be especially if it's the first time. These Audis are very specific on the fluid used as well. I am taking in side work. Email me at wallmedia702@gmail.com
Cole: "Holy $#&@" God: Leviticus 22:32 “Neither shall ye profane my holy name; but I will be hallowed among the children of Israel: I am the LORD which hallow you,”
