Oh god thank you for this video it really helped. I just had my birthday and asked for a mandolin… BUT I DIDNT ASK FOR THE INSTRUMENT I WANTED A MANDOLIN YOU USE TO CUT VEGETABLES IN THE KITCHEN but oh well still an epic instrument and it sounds much better with new strings
I've got four mandolins. Changing the strings is ALWAYS a nightmare, even after 40 years. The old fashioned tailpiece with the offset hooks was designed 100 years ago, and at that time the A and E strings might come unwound under tension - modern strings don't have this problem so you can safely ignore the offset hooks. I don't think you should just throw the old strings. They're still sharp and can easily pierce a rubbish sack, so I carefully wind them up and put them in original envelope. Unfortunately, D'addario are now shipping their strings in plastic instead of paper envelopes, and they're not as resistant to holes, so you might want to use a postal envelope instead. D'addario have a recycling scheme but tbh I don't think it's particularly practical. After cutting off the excess at the nut, the ends are still sharp and I'm quite worried that a curious child (or adult) could get badly gashed fingers. So I use the pliers to fold back each string end into a U shape, back towards the post. This means the sharp string ends are no longer pointing outwards, but instead are pointing inwards.
Can you do a video of just a close up of how you tie and wind the strings around the tuning pegs. I am especially interested in how you do the A and E strings, but in this video, your hand obscures some of the ties that you are doing with the extra steps for the A and E, so I'm having a hard time figuring out what to do. This is the one element of re-stringing that I always screw up, so having a clear video of what you are doing and maybe sketches of the knot pattern would be incredibly helpful. It's just so hard to see these tiny wires and whether we are going up or down, under or over, etc... Thanks
I know CAPO is a bad word with a lot of mandolin players but I use one (about the 8th fret) to keep tension on the loop end of the string and in place on the bridge while I mess with wrapping. You're welcome.
My mandolin is a family heirloom, I ended up getting it in 2014 or 15 when it was stolen by a crooked contractor who stole a whole bunch of stuff. It was dumped and found by a passerby and recovered by the police. I changed out the strings in October of 2015 based on age and the fact that we didn’t know how long it had been sitting out in the elements for. I discovered that my grandfather had glued the bridge to the mandolin when I took all the strings off and it didn’t move
The idea with the graphite is that will serve as a dry lubricant. Dry lubricants resist dirt, dust and oil. They are commonly used by locksmiths to lubricate new keys and lock mechanism. Thanks for your video!
Re: The extra hooks - As I understand it, the extra hooks for the plain A and E strings were to take up most of the tension from the twist above the loop. In the early days of string making, they weren't as precise and tightly locked, and had a tendency to unwind. Unless you're making your own (as I sometimes do) there is no need to use those 'retro' hooks for today's strings.
Just got a mandolin and really look forward to the journey of learning to play it. Already your videos have been a huge help in understanding the first steps - thank you! I may be stranger than the average bear as I don't mind changing my guitar strings because the improvement tone and volume always outweighs the labor, and besides changing guitar strings is really easy! Now onto my mandolin. As an aside, D'Addario has a service in their Player's Circle that allows people to recycle their used instrument strings. It makes maintaining our instruments just a bit more friendly for the world! Loved the video!
Thank you for your time in explaining how to change mandolin strings. I own a ibanez with a Floyd rose floating bridge and change strings on there. I would do the same one at a time. Only one at a time. One string at a time so thanks very much for that. You confirmed what I was thinking originally before I saw the video and I love the way how you put it over to anyone who's a complete novice beginner you made. It sound absolutely so simple, so easy and truly it is once you get into the hang of it. I've changed many many guitar strings including bass, I can't wait to check out some of your videos. Nice work! Have fun! That's all it's all about
Hi David -lots of great advice, there. If I may add another tip - the only time I use a capo on the mandolin is when I change the strings to keep the new string from slipping when I wind it. Just sayin'. Keep these great videos coming. Thanks
I was going to offer the same tip but you beat me to it. After connecting the string loop, place a capo at the seventh fret. It's like having a third hand and makes the job much easier!
Thank you for the enjoyable lesson, found it gladly as I am about to change the rusty strings on my mando. Great little video coming from a nice human being and musician. Blessings ❤ and greetings ✌🏼
Thanks for this David! Super helpful. I must have repeated the 'bend it to the left' A and E string trick 20 times. One question: I just can't get my A strings to stay in tune - one or other of them always slip out just a tiny bit, usually halfway through a tune, which is really frustrating. I'm considering buying some upgrade machine heads but am wondering whether it's something to do with my playing/stringing. Any help would be hugely appreciated.
Hey Gabriel! Ugh, I know the struggle! Could be the tuning machines for sure. Maybe try some different string gauges and brands to see if there's a difference if you haven't done that already.
Hey David. The tailpiece was designed a long time ago. Back in the 20’s and 30’s the string production technology wasn’t able to make loop ends that would reliably hold, especially on the thinner strings so those extra tabs made the E and A strings take a 90 degree turn which provided enough support that the loop wouldn’t pull out. Hope this helps. JR
@@RustyMadd thanks for that mini- physics lesson. So what you are saying, it's probably a good idea to use those extra hooks. I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thanks, Clifton. Bob. 😀😀😀
I do the stretching thing on each string as I put it on, before moving on to the next string. I *think* this helps in that when you change that final E string, you'll have a lot less tuning and retuning to get everything evened out.
Change them one at a time to avoid moving the bridge. Curl the end of the strings back towards the peg with a pair of needle nose pliers to avoid drilling holes in your hands. I change my strings once a year because I don't play that much, but used to change them every few months when I played daily.
My trick: a small piece of earthquake wax! It’s a mixture of clay and wax designed to keep lamps, vases etc from falling over in a quake on furniture without marring the finish. It leaves no residue at all. I take a pea-sized piece, put the loop on the hook and stick the wax on the top of the hook (not on the string). This keeps the loop from popping off the hook. Once the string is on tension, remove the wax and bingo! Life is good. I also use a luthier’s lock on the tuning post (look for guitar string changing videos to see how). Some people hate them because they’re harder to get off the post but they really minimize slipping when you tune up - especially on the e and a strings.
David, fantastic video! You have taken time to go through a lot of things that, if unprepared for, can add a lot of frustration to the mando experience. I think I tie all my strings a bit differently, and I might add one additional criteria to "when to change strings," but you have taken the time to give instructions that, when followed, are going to make mando playing even funner! Thanks!
Hey, David, a note on the Bill James tailpiece: Closing the cover locks the string in place. This allows you to not fret about keeping tension on the string as you thread it through the post. The old design's extra hooks were to relieve tension on the winds of the plain strings, which were not as tightly twisted as today's machine lock-twist. 😉
Acquired a Pava with James tailpiece and just learned this: when you initially place the loop of the new string over the tailpiece post, if you CLOSE the lid, your string is now CAPTIVE, and you don't need to mind the tension as you work on the other end. News to you?
Yeah! That's a great trick! Was try to demonstrate for folks without a James tailpiece here, but I'm glad they're becoming much more common these days!
Great lesson. D'Addarrio is now recycling their strings, and they take other brands as well. You get credits for sending in the old strings. Save the plastic bags for the serial numbers.
Thanks David...FYI, I have been doing the “hitch” over wrap on the wound bass strings as well as the unwound strings for my last few string change outs. I have noticed that it makes the bass strings more responsive to tuning (they tune faster). It is a bit of a pain to make sure you have enough room on the tuner peg for that hitch but I have found that it is worth it and will continue this process for now. I also like to clip off all of the string ends at the end like giving the mandolin a haircut; it cuts down on the mess and is very satisfying (in an OCD kind of way). And finally, I like to write the date of the change out on the old string envelop and put that with and old set of stings back in the case; it acts like an oil change indicator letting me know how old the current strings are. I start coveting new strings after a month or so if I have not been doing a lot of jamming.
It's a cinch if you have a James tailpiece when putting strings on... But for the mando I have that I won't put a James on... I use a capo to hold a string in place until it's at near tension.
Thanks for the video, David. Regarding the double locks (at the tail) for the A and E strings. A luthier on another string-changing video explained that, in the old days, A and E strings were weaker, so they broke more easily, and needed reinforcement. He then said, if your strings were made after some particular year (approximately 1910, I believe) you wouldn't need to use the extra locks (or hooks). Unfortunately, this comes from my memory. I can't give you a source or guarantee that what he said is true. As the old timers used to say after telling a tale, "If it's a lie, it'a lie that was told to me."
you need to make sure that the string is winding down on the peg, wrapping from the hole down toward the peghead, and not up toward the end of the tuning peg. otherwise you get strain against the peg bushing, more resistance tuning, and you will wear out your machine heads faster. also, if you measure the string first, put it through the peg hole second, wind it one turn around the peg, and only then put the string on the tail hook, you can save yourself the whole dance of trying to keep the string on the hook, while you fiddle with the peg. as far as string chemistry and longevity are concerned, always scrub like a surgeon before playing, always clean your strings after playing, using an approved cleaning oil - i find diesel works well. you really should also tell people to use a neck support when doing this, they break SO easily. am better at these things than playing, thank you very much for all your other videos, and i hope this helps, in return.
Nice! Thanks for the video Some tips: For traditional style tailpiece cover removal, you can use a coin to push against it so you don't hurt your fingers. When the string is slack for removing, I always cut it several inches from the tuning post (as shown in the video) to make removal from the tailpiece and peg easier and quicker. When installing the string, wind it 2 to 3 times around the post before threading it through the post hole while keeping the string fairly tight. (2x for wound strings, 3x for plain steel strings) This will keep the loop on the tailpiece and make tuning up to pitch much quicker. When you're winding it around the post by hand, make it spiral up the post from bottom to top, ending below the post hole. Most modern tuning posts are conical and are designed to lock the string automatically by pushing up against the part of the string that goes through the hole. Exceptions are Waverly and Golden Age Restoration tuning machines with cylindrical posts. Get used to changing your strings by doing it every month or 2 and then when you're playing a gig and one breaks, you won't be phased.
David, I've done it both ways in hooking up the loops. Doesn't seems to make any difference. I'm sure there is a good reason for the other hooks, but it can be a shock and source of confusion to someone changing the A and E strings for the very first time, or even after 2 months time. My take on this important subject ...Bob
Question if anyone knows anything, I recently got a Kent 744 mandolin (it was my great grandfathers) and I believe it’s supposed to have ball end strings but I have loop end strings, could I just loop the string through itself and through the hole? (That’s how the old strings were on it)
I actually like changing my strings, I was at a point where I was changing them once a week. But I think the old tail piece configuration like that was because I guess back in the loar days the A and E strings didn’t come with a loop in them so you had to do you’re own haywire twist, and the extra hook was kinda a fail safe. I think I read this on a forum somewhere so I’m not 100% sure it’s true.
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Maverick Kaden i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I brought a mandolin today for the first time . And while tuning one of the E strings broke 😭 should i get all the strings replaced ? Its my first instrument i guess i surely did something wrong 🥺 help me please
Ah, I know the struggle! Yeah, might be good to replace them all. When 1 string breaks, usually others are close to follow suit. Best wishes for your new journey with the mando!
Graphite is used as a dry lubricant in nuclear power plants...personally, I use pencil lead on my flute headjoints and Saxophone necks both places where we need metal on metal contact and grease is not close to ideal. Smart move, and I am sure it works great! 6:00
I once bought some ball end strings for my mandolin and was assured that it was "easy" to remove the balls by slightly unwinding the loops. NEVER AGAIN! The loops are wound by a machine, and the average human wrist doesn't have the same strength to unwind them. Plus, you need multiple hands to hold the string while you try to unwind it. After breaking several strings at the loop, I gave up and bought a new set with loop ends.
I do this with my octave mandolin, if you have a pair of tiny wire cutters you can VERY carefully crack the ball into small enough pieces for it to fall out, without clipping the ball end
I recently bought some mandolin strings made by Thomastik Infeld. Very pricy but purported to last much longer. I was curious to find that neither the G nor the D strings were bronze wound, but just like the A and E. Any thoughts about this?
The tail piece is designed that way because strings used to be more inferior and the higher strings would go out of tune sooner. The extra hook lessens that. Newer strings you don’t need to use the extra hooks.
Nice video, one thing you demonstrated but didn't mention is to wear glasses- I've had more than one friend injure an eye while changing strings! Also the "lid' on the james can be shut after placing the loop on the hook, eliminating the need for three hands.
that most important part on the E string made no sense to me. I'm still trying to figure out what hook the end down and over the string means. It looks like you are hooking it under the string. Either way, my mess just keeps unraveling. :(
I play guitar, bought a used mandolin it only had 4 strings on it, so I went and bought new strings and took the old strings off. Like I would with my guitar 🤦🏼♀️ I have changed my banjo strings this way too, I just mark the position of the bridge. Well I think after viewing this I’m gonna go to my guitar shop and hand it to him 😂 Had I watched this first…
Marking the bridge position is a good idea, but a difference of 1mm can change the intonation, so it's best to change the strings one and a time - as long as you're sure the bridge is in the right position to start with.
Great video David! My only disagreement is that it's not necessarily a bad thing to have to pay someone to change strings. Mandolinists who aren't pros and need a side hustle to support their habit could do well as professional string changers. Haha!
NOW you tell me! ;-) Just changed the original strings and found it much harder (and more dangerous!) that changing classical gitbox strings, which I've done for years. I don't think I got any bloodstains on my mando....
I made the mistake of buying a cheap mandolin to discover the instrument I knew that mandolins from this brand (Rayzm) often have defects and it appears that the ones on mine prevents me from changing the strings 😵💫 The hooks are so tight I can't remove the loops
I just paid $20 to have strings changed. (Just got a used mandolin with a missing string). I didn’t want to get into this job the first time with the instrument.
☺😃😊😃 Honestly. ...NO....old strings sound mellow on a mandolin...as for changing them.....well one of the great bass players from a 70-80s group called chic...when asked what strings he used...he said erm I don't know what do these come with....turning to another member of his group...with a puzzled look...(he never ever changed them All you really got to do is play endlessly get your stuff together and boom it will with time sound better....stop looking for the magic item....because you already have it in your fingers
Hey Andrew! Thanks for watching! It may seem crazy, but changing strings is important to do regularly on the mandolin. Bass strings can go years without having to be changed because they’re so thick and durable, but mandolin strings should be changed every few months if you’re playing regularly. Otherwise you risk poor tone and breakage.
One thing people should possibly take into consideration when choosing strings is what kind of mandolin they have. If you have an older mandolin without a truss rod, like an older bowlback you probably should consider using "light" or even "extra light" strings on the instrument. They will be less likely to cause the mandolin neck to warp.
Guitar players have the privilege of taking all the strings at a time while changing them and this also gives an opportunity to clean the fretboard using a light lemon oil or something .. But given the fact that in mandolin we change one/two strings at a time , how do we go about cleaning the fretboard - maybe it’s a once/twice a year thing .but how to do it .. with most of the strings staying on the bridge .. isn’t that going to make the cleaning difficult to do ?
The one thing that confuses me as a new player, and you didn’t touch on is - how much play you leave on the strings before tightening so you end up with the correct amount of wraps on the peg heads.
My usual guide is about the distance of two tuner pegs. Like, pull the string to full length, then measure the distance of two tuning pegs past the tuner you’re stringing up, then slacken the string so that where you measure lines up with the tuner you’re working on. Crimp the string off there and wind!
Hey Wayne! Yeah, I wasn't specific because I don't think it has to be too exact. As long as there is some slack on the strings it should wind up alright. Best of luck!
Thank you so much. I still have the original strings on my Mandolin, which I bought … 24 years ago? 🫣 Granted there were periods where I didn’t play much or at all, I’m a multi-instrumentalist. But still, considering that they still sound pretty decent 😂 But I started playing violin under three years ago and with some help changed those strings so maybe it’s time to bit the bullet on these strings too. Your video will help a lot but it is hilarious to think I’m using 24 year old strings compared to … some of your other examples.
I had to turn this this off about one minute into it. It was far too annoying trying to make out the instruction over the din of irrelevant background music. I don’t know why it’s so difficult to grasp the concept that music not to be listened to is just distracting noise.
