Make sure you notice the reference marks on the dry clutch plate and put back on in the same orientation, otherwise you’ll put it into 1st gear and go nowhere
@@chrisj2127yes, if you can see the clutch like in this video, its a dry clutch. If you cant see it, then probably its a wet clutch(running in oil). But most of the time its Ducati or other italiens using the dry clutch, most other bikes are wet
This is one of those projects it seems much more intimidating than it actually is. I think the hardest part is actually figuring out what the torque specs are.
No you can't that motor will detonate in no time trust I had one with a dry clutch....but it was a good bike for longer rides a little uncomfortable but it rode but the second you finger fk it bang
Good for you, that you have a dry clutch. but motorbikes who have a dry clutch take up about 20% or less on the market. if you have a wet clutch, you should consider, that you have to renew the clutch cover sealing and maybe drain and change the oil too. so your title is right. but only for dry clutches.
@Alice Bate yes they do just like brakes and the wall and roofing around your oven does, asbestos is still used plenty plenty of things for specific reasons
It might not be the case depending on your bike, but you need to pay attention to the orientation of the stamp steel. One side of every disc is rough, you need to put them in the same orientation (usally rough edge facing the springs). If not on tight tolerance basket(like japanese bike) the edge of the clutch plate will catch and get sideway, the springs won't be able to push enough to get it unstuck. It is especially true on dirt bikes, high horse power for a small engine, really tight tolerances.
Depending on what bike you have, your clutch kit will include extra clutch disc with varying thickness. You have to measure the stack height before just slapping it in. Refer to the service manual for the specs. I'm a stickler for shit being in spec versus slapping stuff together but I will if I have to
as someone who will never use this information and pretty much wasted my time watching it, i feel absolutely prepared to swap a engine into a street bike
What I am curious to know is, why would you ever need to do this? I put 45000 miles on my first street bike and then changed the clutch "just in case," and I could not detect any difference between the old parts and the new parts. I put 67000 miles on a YZF600R and it never needed a replacement clutch. Also did all manner of slow speed clutch-riding hill-climbing off-roady stuff on a KLR650 and its clutch was also still working. Maybe drag racing? Never been into that so maybe that's it.
It's easy as pie for most bikes like my dads 02 honda shadow 1100. But for my 98 bmw r1100rt they german engineard the crap out of that thing. It's got a single plate dry clutch like a cars.
REMEMBER. Evenly remove the clutch springs on removal to not cause damage to your steel plates. Same thing on install. Do a little at a time on each spring til there’s equal tension the whole time. Seen some gnarly damage removing it without being mindful.
A wet clutch is encased and usually encased in oil. Dry clutch is in open air. Look at a Ducati. Dry clutches also sound like there is something rattling in your engine.
Wet or dry you left a few things out - you mislead to demonstrate that this is an easy job - okay, about the spring retaining bolts - what is their torque, and why did you not explain the importance of not warping the pressure plate upon reassembly. - That's just for starters - enough said considering the other replies - what is best is to have a parts diagram which can be obtained off the net - You got good delivery skills - it would be nice if there was substance too !
You left out the part about cleaning everything (the new parts ship with” slime” on them to prevent rust) including the parts of that will be reused; flywheel and clutch cover.
Do NOT just commence just loosening bolts on a Norton Commando or other bike that may use a diaphragm spring!!! Without first using the proper clutch spring compression tool, you'll launch that thing straight into your ribcage.
@The_jN Maybe the word's got out nowadays...yet I remember grisly tales of yore, when folks, long used to the old springcups type clutches, would just commence a-wrenching on their Commando clutch with painful results.
Sucks fot the guys with moto guzzies needing a new clutch. Its basically just a tiny normal manual engine. Gotta pull the trans off and replace the flywheel or resurface it.
