@Hitman If its collecting on the bottom pulling the plug isnt going to pull it out. Todays oil suspend particles better than ever. In theory it all sounds bad, but even Mercedes Benz uses extractors.
If you’re so worried about extra particles, flush the oil every oil change. Empty it fill it. Empty it fill it. That’s the only way to get even more out, as he has said even oil drain plugs don’t just get every drop or piece out.
@@nitrofreakmanho I'm guessing gravity would work well. Then once pretty well drained you could do a final rinse with alcohol, like just rubbing or denatured.
As a mechanic in the OPE industry. Fluid evacuated are essential Tool for the job but does not replace Draining from the plug. When you drain from the plug it removes deposits from the bottom of the crankcase that you can't get too with a straw from the fluid evacuated.
Well... I converted over to vacuum extraction a number of years ago. It really saves me time and effort on all the cars in the family, power equipment, and air compressor pumps. I can now change any of my cars/trucks oil in under twenty minutes while wearing a suit and tie. I no longer need to get out the jack stands and crawl around under the car. Every Summer or so, the vehicles are always up on jack stands for other maintenance. This is when I usually do a full oil pan bolt drain and filter replacement. I fell so in love with vacuum extraction, I removed the oil pan on my 1993 C1500 an welded in some sheet steel to keep the tube inserted down the dip stick from getting hung up on some of the pan's slosh baffles. Even if you're not a full-on hard core DIY'er, a vacuum extractor will pay for itself in a year or two if one has to service two or more family cars. And every other year, visit a quickie change place and risk some teenager buggering up your drain plug or double gasketing the oil filter.
What money is it saving? If you are doing it yourself anyway. If it has a drain plug you get more out. Plus if the filter is underneath you're going under anyway. Plus I can remove the plug without getting any on me.
I am going to put a quick drain valve in place of the drain plug on my car and vacuum it into a 5 gal plastic bucket with a lid. One new bucket every year (4qt oil in my crankcase * 3 synthetic changes per year) - I already have the shopvac. This video is shilling a pump for their Amazon affiliate awards on top of RU-vid views payouts.
This is the way! A few years ago I got an oil extractor for my small engine business... Talk about a game changer. I used to dread doing oil changes on machines like the generator in the video. The other tool you want to make the job faster is a measuring cup. The owners manual for your engine usually tells the exact amount of oil required. The beauty of the extractor is if you overfill it's no big deal, you can simply suck some oil out.
I personally enjoy creating “oil art” on my driveway by removing the oil plug, (usually located behind a wheel or other obstruction on the machine). Then I catch most of the oil by rigging a path for it to flow into my waste bucket- usually with some scrap cardboard. Then the fun part; move the machine and check the asphalt! Never know what pattern you’re gonna get from all the missed dripping onto the driveway.
You may be able to add a metal screw Nipple with a Cap to the oil plug fitting. Use Teflon tape. Then, you should have an easier time with draining oil. A simple used metal bake pan on the concrete will help too.
I have Kia Sorrento, oil filter on top. Great product, eliminates creating drain plug issues an crawling under vehicle! When draining the old oil likes to splash onto things like concrete floor or me :-). Thank you!
Very cool been looking for something like this. Also you didn’t show the part where when you’re pouring it into that smaller jug it overflows and it goes all over the garage floor.
When I change the oil with this, I will usually remove all the oil, then pour back in about 1/2 quart of fresh oil to stir up the bottom, then remove that as well. It mixes with whatever dirt may be on the bottom that did not come up. Then I can extract that as well.
I guess that’s one way of finding out if you’re getting all the oil out, is to put a half a quart of fresh oil in and then if that comes out clear you know you’re getting all the oil out. You’re a genius, i’m gonna have to try that. Not that you have to do that every single time but if you do it one time you know you’re always getting all the oil out.
Everyone misses a key part of undercar oil changes... INSPECTION. If you never look anywhere except at the top you never check suspension, undercarriage, possible start of leaks, etc. I've got an extractor, but I alternate with oil pan plug drains too.
4 cars and will be using with all of them. Thank you so much for making this video! Just did this with my wife’s Kia soul. Afterwords I remove the drain bolt and not a single drop of oil came out.
Thank you the nice compliment and glad to hear its working just as it should. Very handy device, in addition to oil I use it for transmission fluid, brake and coolant, makes emptying the reservoirs so easy. Thanks again
I was curious what this was all about and when I saw the post. I’ve been using an extractor since 2005 on my Toyota Tacoma. It works on some cars but doesn’t work on my 2012 Honda Accord. Good info. I also Pour a I/2 quart of clean oil and extract it to see if l miss any dirty oil.
Got one of those in Canada at Princess Auto 25yrs ago and has saved me 10's of thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours on lots of equipment. Change your all your fluids as they are super cheap. Buy good filters and no more oil change rip offs.
I use one of those 5 gal racing jugs to store my used oil in. They are great for cleanly storing and dumping oil. I use a cheap basic drain pan with a spout to catch the draining oil, then just dump into the 5 gal jug right away. No funnels needed.
I use this exact oil extractor , however I use it on my Audi A6 which doesn't have an oil plug . Seven liters of oil usually takes around 20 minutes to remove , I love this system I only wish it moved faster . Yes I know I could have an oil plug put in to the pan , but if any of you have ever had an Audi you will know about the front belly pan under the bumper and that is a nightmare to keep removing and reinstalling it . Outside of the time I truly love using this system , very clean overall...
I do not recommend that. Being a marine mechanic for boats and water craft and of course many other items, by sticking the skinny plastic tube in a hot motor they can and will melt to the inner pan or maybe other hot metal and stick and then will not come off. Then you pull hard enough and part of it breaks off inside and your real problems begin because you need to get that part out. It has happened.....and will continue lol.
I pour/transfer my used oil into the 5qt bottles from previous oil changes vs an old milk jug. The milk jug works, but the small mouth makes it difficult even with a funnel....plus I get that extra qt
I have an oil extractor and have found it to be more useful for power steering, brake fluid including bleeding brake lines, transmissions, garden tractor hydrostatic fluid. None of my cars will extract more than a quart using extractor so for that purpose it was useless but great for the other things described.
Love this vacuum oil pump😍 saves time and money 💰 also can be used for 4x4 differential oil changes as well as power steering fluid changes! Must have for marine engine oil changes 😁👍🏻😎
I used to have a vaccum can so I could do oil changes when living in an apartment, but went back to jacking the cars and the drain plug because I had to crawl under the cars anyway to change the filter can. Plus a Jack and stands and chocks costs $35 at Walmart and that pump is over $80
I made an electric version about 30 years ago.and it pumped straight into a disposal container. I had to change the engine oil on spray pumps in the back of pickups. I used it for everything from oils to antifreeze. I should have got a Patent on it.
Would be great for motorcycle forks which often don't have a drain plug. I've had to improvise with plastic tube and a syringe before which is a right pain.
i recently purchased an extractor pump for one vehicle and now use it for all of them. i have found that when the oil starts gurgling, push the tube back and forth about an inch which finds oil at the bottom of the pan. during my last oil change, when I unscrewed the drain plug, no oil came out - literally no oil came out. while i "search" for oil at the bottom of the pan, i keep pumping slowly as to maintain a solid vacuum.
That one looks much better. I had a Mityvac and the hose reduces to a smaller diameter via a rubber adapter, well when I was pumping the used oil back into the canister, the rubber adapter came undone and oil went everywhere.
Hello - just wondering what size is the smallest dipstick hose your using and how flexible is it? I have a dipstick tube that has a bend in it and I wasn't sure if the smallest one would get around that bend - Thx
Great channel! How come you don't suck out the oil refill then pour out the oil then show people by measuring and then time the 2 methods to show people the time savings?
I took one look at what it would take to change the oil on a VW Jetta diesel and bought an extractor. Changed the oil every 6,000 miles for 238,000 miles. I'm guessing it's adequate. Never got under the car. Imagine changing the oil standing up. (The oil filter is genius on the 1.9L diesel, too.) I'll get the bigger one for my G8GT using the affiliate link. EDIT: the old one I had used a pinch clamp on the tube. It's a cheap modification for a huge improvement in use. You can shutoff flow when you start sucking air so you can move the tube without losing vacuum.
A 1/4 turn valve on the bottom would be a simple and convenient addition so you didn't have to turn the whole thing on its side. Some of the convenience of using it is lost during the emptying process especially if you completely fill it and have to try landing the oil stream into a small jug or something.
using a drain plug gets all of the settled gunk and/or metal shavings out of the oil pan especially on a car. For small yard tools you can tilt the tool over to the one side where the plug is to get it all out. Only dip sticks suck it out of the dip stick and probably don't change the filter either. Convince me i'm wrong
My Maserati Ghibli would cost $480 at the dealer for an oil change. Regular oil change places like Jiffy Lube flat out refuse to do the service because they're fearful of screwing something up and getting sued (even though it's EXACTLY the same as any other oil change, no magic involved). I change my own oil with an extractor like this that I bought for $100. My costs for each oil change are now $50 for the oil and a $15 filter, that's $65 TOTAL. For my car, that's a savings of $415.00 for each oil change. That allows me to change it much more often without killing me financially. I can do 7 oil changes before I've spent $480. So instead of paying ridiculous fees for a single change every 12k miles, I can do 7 oil changes at 6k mile intervals, always insuring my oil, the life blood of my engine, is always well within it protective ability. I understand that not everyone drives a car that's as expensive to maintain as mine, but I promise you, doing your changes yourself WILL SAVE you money. You'll also have the added benefits of knowing it was done right, and the money you save can be used for maintenance items you can't do yourself. You can do this !!!
Yeah, and before I ordered something like this I checked to see whether I could get to the oil filter w/o removing under-engine parts. Nope. So the advantage of something like this are minimal.
I am using the rest of my Honda oil but now I have switched to amzn.to/2SF5mUs - Kohler makes some great engines and this is economical but still a brand I can have some trust in.
Just as shown, pump it by hand. You can also see me using it here to change steering fluid easily. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LYGPqewZvYg.html
@My Pets - unless you have a vehicle with a top loaded cartridge filter. Like say a Volvo, Volkswagen, or Ford F-150. I’ve used one of these pumps on all 3 vehicles for years now, haven’t had to crawl underneath a vehicle until I bought a 2020 F250 last year. It’s old school. Filter is still on the bottom.
I would like to buy that extractor pump. What is it called, I tried to search for it on eBay but there are so many types. I need an extractor minimum 4 quarts.
You really don't ever clean the inside of the pump. But if for some reason you wanted to, I would vacuum up a little kerosene or diesel and swish around and dump out (legally) I never reccomended dumping oil the wrong way. Our local dump takes it for recycling as do many retailers
@@SilverCymbal thanks for the quick reply! I recently ordered one of these and want to use it on multiple types of fluids, which my recycling center wouldn't take if it were contaminated.
@@Will_JJHP Ah that makes sense, I don't think you will have much more than a few tpss left of any fluid in it, I wouldn't think it would be an issue, you can even turn it upsidedown after to drain out every bit and save cleaning it. That may be easier and no worries of fluids.
One word of caution! These vacuum fluid extractors are indeed great tools, however do some research into your vehicle before you buy one like I did. I am an old guy with a bad back so I wanted to change my oil from above on my GM LS engine. I installed a remote oil filter kit, so I could change the filter from above; no problem there. Upon receipt of my oil extractor, I pulled my dipstick and inserted the larger tube and it would not go to the bottom of my oil pan; so I tried the smaller tube and would not go in either. I did some lengthy research and found that most GM LS engines have some baffle plates to keep oil from surging and sloshing in the pan. While the dipstick will pass the plates even the smallest flexible hose will NOT pass. As a matter of fact it will not even reach the top of the oil, let alone the bottom of the oil pan. So LS owners beware!
The only situation this unit may not work is a few vehicles were designed with two oil plugs... the oil pan actually was designed to fit over drive train components and the oil pan actually has two oil sumps or wells.... but these pan designs are probably not even on the road any more.
It's better to drain the oil by removing the drain plug as the drain plug is located at the lowest point on the oil pan. Since most vehicles have the oil filter located on the engine and is changed from the bottom, then why not drain the oil as well. If you use that pump to change the oil and not change the oil filter that filter will eventually get to the point where it can't filter the oil which will cause the oil to bypass the filter media via the bypass which would be like not having a filter at all. Also, that pump may not be able to reach the lowest point in the oil pan. The lowest point of the oil pan is where most of the gunk builds up which is another reason to drain the oil by using the drain plug.
I believe Mercedes dealer has been using an oil extractor to change oil for a long time. In my experience, changing the oil filter takes much longer than draining the oil, so not sure how much time an oil extractor saves.
Yes, OEM has a brake bleeder-specific part to add to this extractor for about $20. Works fine, just back the bleeder all the way out and wrap the threads in teflon tape. That will prevent bubbles in the extractor line when bleeding the brakes.
Does anyone have much experience cleaning these pumps? I thought I could open the cap but it seems to be on their tight--which is good, but I was wonder if anyone has figured out a workable way to clean these pump after you've sucked oil into them.
Fumoto valve is a better option. Open valve, drop oil directly from the car into an empty gallon. Close valve. Voilà ! I put one on my car 12 mm threads and one on my Ariens snowblower 3/8 npt threads.
In addition, when doing the oil change using a Fumoto valve, you don't have to transfer oil from pan to an empty gallon as it drops directly into it. This means no messy pan to clean after. It also prevent oil to bounce from the oil pan onto your driveway.
