Attention! This video contains mistakes: 06:48 - the tightening torque is 27 Nm, not 55 Nm. 08:38 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 72 Nm. 08:45 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm. 08:51 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 75 Nm. 09:37 - the tightening torque is 110 Nm, not 75 Nm. 10:43 - the tightening torque is 28 Nm, not 38 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
7:42 How did you get the lower strut to be the same height as the knuckle ? My knuckle is much higher in its free position. I have to stand on it to get it to lower to the right position but then I am unable to get the bolt in.
It is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car or we recommend consulting with your mechanic.
@@autodocuk I've since attached the lower strut to the knuckle. It required me pushing down hard on the knuckle to get the holes to align. When the lower control arm is installed, the bushes' torsional stiffness give it a no-load position, which should, presumably, be about the vehicle's static ride height.
What is worth emphasising, as it was a mistake that I made, is the the orientation of the top plate has to be correct when reassembling the the strut as, unlike with the front strut, you can not rotate it once it's assembled.
@@The_North0 You can't get a bolt through the bottom hole of the strut to bolt into the knuckle, as it points the bolt away from the knuckle hole... as I found out last year. The front strut can be rotated on the top mount bearing to fit. The rear can't.
@@The_North0 You can't rotate the bottom of the strut to align the bolt hole to the knuckle bolt hole. As the interface between the strut top and the body is held by 3 bolts, you can have it at 0, 120, 240 degrees.
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