Auto-doc is one of the best tutorials Iv ever came across. Very very professional. I had been looking for some tips replacing this particular bearing. I’m an old guy out of practice but wow. This is definitely one of the best tutorials Iv ever come across ever and Iv been around a while. Anybody remembering John Haynes OBE from the Haynes Manuals will agree I’m sure, he too would be very impressed with Autodoc. Brilliant. Thank you. 👍
Exactly... I hit a kerb in w203 and have bought a hub carrier as the rear end is steering by itself (think it’s cracked) yes I only drove it a few miles home! Reading the manual anticipating doing the change myself. That hub nut seems awfully easy to remove... I wonder if mines going to be so loose....
Great video. Thanks. If anyone can answer this the question, I would grateful - how long would it take competent mechanic to do this job? I know the video is approx. 34 mins long, but that has to account for the way it has been edited.
I wish I could just see 1 person do that. I figure you just disconnect the knuckle from the spring control arm to do so? I'd really like to not touch any of the other arms if possible. The potential for "while you're in there" is too great with the method here haha. I also don't anticipate my hub coming off so easily.
I just replaced both wheel bearings on my wife's car this weekend following this tutorial. Showing the torque values as things were being reassembled would have been nice, but if you follow the method shown in this video, you will not have any issues. Thanks autodoc!
Hello AUTODOC LU how does it work with the simple removal of the hub after you have loosened all screws. This is anything but easy or easy, as it sits firmly on the axis of the w210 like a hammer. Thanks in advance. (at time 14:00 following)
Thank you one can figure out all that needs to be done with your video, thanks for sharing. I suspect I may have to do this on my 08 W204, however would like to confirm with anyone that had to have this job done to their cars, what are the suggested symptoms usually to narrow that the issue is the bearing and not other part? As for me I hear a loud hum. buzz inside the car coming from the rear and an occasional rattle coming from the truck area when I'm driving, I know Mercedes don't sound like that, but unsure which part is at fault. Would appreciate some tips to diagnose and narrow down which side.
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, one can't answer your question unambiguously. We recommend that you contact the Car Specialized Service to carry out full diagnostics and to reveal the side of the part wearing. Best regards, Autodoc.
Just diagnosed mine today. If you jack your car up, put it on stands and neutral, and rotate the tire Youll def be able to hear what’s going on with each wheel. After confirming that no metal plates were making contact with the rotor, I kept hearing grinding and the wheel came to more of a sudden stop when free spinning at a certain part of the rotation. Def a bad bearing. Ordered a new part and will tackle with this vid...not looking forward to it. 🤦♂️ But I’ve worked on shoes and spring tensions before.
@@fdavila021 Thanks for the reply. I think my issue has to do with controller arms as the noise continues, but went away when I had to put new tires after an unusal wear in the inside of both rear tires.
Was the axle nut put back to spec’s?? Couldn’t see any torque wrench and. I would say the way that axle nut was put back with just 2 turn with the wrench is not the proper way.
I have 1.2 mpi engine 1198cc 2011 vw polo run 54000 km.i want to ask vw need to change fuel filter or not .if need to change pls tell me the righte time to change the fuel filter or after how many kms
I could not remove my rotor. It kept spinning and moving out a bit, but it would not come out. What is the guy doing at 3:06 cause it looks like he had the same problem I have now?
Thank you for your comment. The mechanic facilitated the dismantling of the brake disc through the hole in the brake disc and reduced the brake pads Best Regards, Autodoc team.
Wonder why my bearings split open when I tried to pounce on the hub like he did. I had to then find a way to take the bearing racing out, it wasn't difficult with a bearing splinter and a 3 leg extractor, but still I would have love to just smash it out and unbolt the old bearing.
Do anybodyknow what torque spec for the rear axle nut on a 2012 C350 coupe base model rwd someone try stealing my hub and took the axle nut off I want to put it back on
Thank you for your feedback! We understand that sometimes the moments of dismantling, especially the ones that are associated with threaded connections, do not look realistic in the videos, however, to save time, we have to loosen them earlier so as not to spend a lot of time on them. Best regards, Autodoc.
I think people need to see a bit of struggle to have a better understanding of what might be involved in attempting a job like this. Its giving the wrong impression. Ps drop the music.
auto doc please help me with a information y have a MB A140 W168 Classic 97-01,where my mechanic change the rear left wheel bearing (new) , and now its making a sound like a plastic tic tic tic tic ,more speed more tic sound its making .how can be fixed ? .thanks .
This video is not accurate. I changed mine today without removing any of the brake shoes or emergency brake components (except for the emergency brake adjuster) nor any of the suspension linkages. Steps: remove axle nut, remove tire, remove caliper and rotor, tap the axle shaft inward. There is enough clearance to remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing in place. The bearing will come out with a bit of wiggling of the brake shoes. Buy a new spindle for $20 from Rock Auto rather than trying to get the old bearing race off the old spindle.
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. Best Regards, Autodoc
Yea... that doesn't work on 4matic.... axle shaft doesnt move inward nearly enough to get at the bolts and odds are the ABS magnetic ring needs to be replaced too.
By the time I finished this job, I had begun to hate the guy in this video. haha. Do yourself a favor and buy the bearings with a new hub already pressed on. The "hit it with a hammer trick" most likely will not work. Local shops wanted to charge me an hours labor (anywhere from $100 to $120 US) just to press out the hub and press on the new bearing. Since I had to do two, it was cheaper for me to simply buy a cheap 12ton floor press from harbor freight. Even with that, getting the hub out of the old bearing was approaching impossible. I got it out but in pieces and took a lot of heat and cutting too. The new bearing pressed on in two seconds.
Thank you for your comment! Our channel is for informational purposes only and is not a guide to car maintenance, We understand that sometimes on video the moments of dismantling do not look reliable, however, to save time, we have to weaken them earlier so as not to spend a lot of time on them. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Could have used a vice instead of a press, and a bearing puller is a cheap solution to getting the bearing out, especially if it leaves behind just the outer race
@6:22 my parking brake cable does not disconnect like that. I have a 2010 GLK 350 and the E brake cable does not have a removable pin. HOT TIP ** Also keep in mind the orientation of that part that he is removing as it's important to reinstall in the correct orientation to not cause issues.
Glad your not working on my car with those needle nose pliers on the parking brake. You just remove the two spiral clips and spread the bottom two shoes and remove the assy in one piece, replace it the same,dont need to disturb the adjustment.
Hi! Unfortunately, we cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be made at specialized services.
Appreciate if can have some captions on what tool size to use for each tools shown. And also show the end results of how things look like when the bush is pumped in. Coz the video just show he went straight to install on the car without showing how it look like.
- 12 point 32mm axle nut socket + a new axle nut because you destroy it when removing it if not self locking - 18MM lug nut socket - Various socket extensions - Various torx bits + reverse torx bits (seriously, get a good set, you'll need them for the rotor retaining screw, caliper slide pins, suspension bolts, hub bolts) - 18mm box end wrench - 21mm box end wrench - Hammer + punch - Patience + luck to deal w/ the removal of the ebrake actuator cable pin + reinstallation of the hardware. - Brake grease - Brake parts cleaner
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the car you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. The music can be turned off in the area below the video for your comfort.. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your attention to the details. Our experts will look into it. Stay tuned for more videos in the days ahead. Best regards, Autodoc!
I am talking about Mercedes clk w209 year 2005. I thought that your tutorial will be also good for w209. I bought n32sockket and it is too big :) Maybe for w204 is good :). Thank you for tutorials. They are helpfull :)
