Always first remove the Earth -ve terminal first and then the red +ve next, and when refitting connect the Red + first and last the negative if you don't want spanner touching body work and causing big sparks.
Just be care full that you don't mess up. Lol nothing will be deleted. If tmps is reset then drive for 5 min it will be good again. Remember to disconnect negativ first and then postive. When reconnecting do the opposite. Connect the postive first and then negative.
Could you please do a new version of this video? It wasn't helpful apart from showing someone where to find the battery and what you have to undo. I felt you really didn't cover anywhere near as much as you could. I needed to do this for my neighbour back at Christmas so I had already worked out this much the hard way. I am pretty sure the socket you need is 13mm, not 14mm, if someone could physically check and confirm please? I manged to get an open-end spanner onto the nut (which is why I think it's 13mm not 14mm, but it was 3 weeks ago now so I'm not certain) Unfortunately it's so deep in the hole and the hole is so narrow that I wasn't able to turn the spanner. Cheap and nasty un-userfriendly design. What's the bet GM sell a special long-handled battery removal tool to specialist mechanics? (for like $100!) I ended up using visegrips (mole grips) locking pliers because I don't have any deep sockets. I even wasn't confident that a normal deep socket would have fitted over the 3-4cm of bolt sticking up, so I didn't want to race out and buy one specially. (deep 13mm sockets are only around £2-£4 on eBay at the moment) I hate using any kind of pliers on nuts or bolts unless they're rusted solid and going to be thrown away, but that was the only thing I could fit down in the hole and turn. Once I put the vice grips on I only needed to move it 1/2 a turn or less to unlock it and from there on it was only finger-tight and easy to turn so I was able to take the pliers off and undo it the rest of the way by hand. It will be a pain to do when it gets older and gets dirt or rust on the bolt though. By the way, "Ah" on a battery is pronounced "Amp hours" - please call it that, not "AH". (Officially it stands for "Ampere hours")
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I had the same feeling about the depth. Unfortunately I have sold my car so I can't make a new video or confirm about the 13mm or 14mm. Hopefully someone else could verify this. You could join some Facebook groups. Opel Astra k or vauxhall astra k. Usually there are plenty and from different countries.
@@Mr.Gheasi Lucky man. I've met two owners so far and something has always burned (only models with proxy keys). The climate control unit, for example. I've also heard of other cases. I want to ask how long do you wait before reconnecting the battery.
Why do you keep tapping everything with your finger? We know you are talking about the battery, it is the only thing we can see on the video at the time you mention it. You forgot to show the battery being changed, which is what the video was all about. I could point at a car and say - here is how to change the engine, you need all these tools and just undo all those bolts and thanks for watching. Waste of time even filming that, you did not even show the new battery fitted. You also failed to explain about how the settings in the menu will need to be altered again. What you should do is fit a small 12v alarm battery across the positive and negative and then change the battery over to the new one so that none of the settings are lost and the alarm is not triggered. You would need to go through a whole procedure to get the car to learn everything again which is a pain. You also forgot the vent tube. I seriously doubt you even changed the battery as you did not seem to know much about it and didn't once mention the different types or sizes, why they might be chosen or about the venting.
