Hi, you can't judge oil quality based on colour. But as I wrote in description MB doesn't want you to change it. In fact I was doing the job for other reasons. So what you say is true. Good luck 🙂
Good work! I changed the oil in my GLK which should be the same as the W204. What oil did you use? I bet on Ravenol DGL. Complies with Mercedes standard 235.7 and 235.74. I also poured it into the front differential. There, the oil must be forced through the drain hole.
Hello mate, I have a GLK x204 as well. Any videos you would recommend changing the differential in the front?? I can’t seem to find any video guides on the matter. Thank you in advance!
Hi, unfortunately I don't know very well the manual. For differential I don't know about issues, for the gearbox I'd have a look at online forums just to be sure, but it should be a bulletproor gearbox. If it's an old w204 check also for rear subframe rust. Good luck
How u know when unhave to Change this oil? I have an manual car and între 1 ft gear da back of car îs jumping, îs transmision problem? Or only The diferential oil?
I don't understand the problem you describe, this is differential oil, not manual gearbox oil, but the method of replacement is the same. Let the car have a diagnosis by an expert. Good luck
I don’t give videos dislikes but I have the same car. You put blue thread locker on the drain plug - 1 drop is too much. The factory doesn’t put thread lock on that for a reason and you should follow the factory. This is a drain plug and as the fluid heats up it comes in contact with the drain plug, which is the idea. You’re running the risk of literally putting glue in your differential. Follow the factory and don’t come up with your own solutions. Thread lock goes on parts that are susceptible to vibration like brake calipers, pads. And those are bolts that aren’t holding any liquid. This isn’t a component that vibrates - at all. Just torque to spec and that’s it.
@@ticktime6569 My cousin is a certified MB master technician. Where the factory doesn’t put thread lock you don’t put thread lock. The differential case is not a component that is affected by vibration. The threads are exposed to fluid. Take out any drain plug in any part of any car, it has fluid on the threads (and no it’s not due to fluid immediately pouring out). And the differential expands and contrasts due to heat. Please don’t tell people they’re wrong. If you disagree, say you disagree. That’s the smart way to reply. But in this case, you’re being irresponsible to the next owner by reducing the life of the differential by coming up with solutions where there aren’t problems - but this will create a problem. And you’re also making it more difficult to open the next time for the next person.
@@AlGolzari honestly I reported exactly what WIS manual recommends. But I'll write a warning in video description anyway. You could be right or not, but we end up in the usual debates about changing or not the diff fluid, etc.. If you are worried for some thread sealant residues, you should be worried even more for iron filing inside, due to wear and tear. WIS recommends omnifit 100H, that is a thread sealant. A drop not more. I'll write the warning anyway, thank you for you message
Anyway at this link you can see WIS pictures for a CLK. In the picture it shows the two types of plugs. Before year 2004 they had sealant already on, after 2004 the plugs came with no sealant on it, but it's required a droplet of omnifit 100H sealant. mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w208/568503-2000-clk430-rear-end-diff-oil-help.html#&gid=1&pid=3
@@ticktime6569 you can put thread sealant because you have to heat very high before the selant is coming out. But you don't need to put so much, just a vertical line drop is enough.
