*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Making use of the ru-vid.comUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
1. For safety, always remove negative first. You did get the reassembly sequence right (positive first). 2. Be damn careful not to short the positive battery cable to anything metal.
Negative battery terminal removed first. Always!! And this has nothing to do with shocking yourself. It is to stop you shorting out your spanner between the chassis of the vehicle and the positive terminal with your spanner when loosening/tightening it.
This is exactly what I do. I see all these videos of connecting a so called "Memory Saver" to the OBD port but that is not needed if you use this method in this video. It is such that the car never actually looses battery power so it does not loose any settings in the multitude of computer modules in the car. Myself, I just use a small 12 volt battery that one would normally find in a riding lawn mower. Never tried a 9 volt battery like in the video, but if nothing else, one could use 8 AA batteries in series and have 12 volts. Myself I would want no less then 11 volts since I am unsure of the low voltage threshold of these modules in newer cars. Still, he clearly showed that this 9 volt setup worked for the vehicle in the video. Cool.
Let me relate something that happened to a friend of mine, a dentist by trade who likes to work on his sports car occasionally. In preparation for some other work, he elected to remove the battery from the car, using a box wrench to loosen the battery clamps. The wrench made contact with his wedding ring (he's lefthanded), and the ring in turn made contact with the battery holddown. A massive short circuit welded his ring to the holddown and to the wrench, which in turn was welded to the positive terminal.
I have personal knowledge of a generally similar accident. The ring and wrench weren't welded together and to the vehicle, but the ring did a really good imitation of the filament in an incandescent light bulb and nearly completely "cut" the finger flesh around the bone...in effect, an electrical self-amputation. I had never heard of similar accidents and figured this was about as likely as being hit by a meteorite, but your report makes me think maybe these happen with some regularity, that they're just "infrequent" rather than being almost impossibly rare.
i found your vid informative . we came on here to find out how to get to our battery . we are use to the older cars and are grateful that people like you are willing to give up your time to make life easier . if not for you and everyone who does these vids . we would have had to shell out some bucks to get the car towed . so thanks
This wont work on many cars so here is the easier way. Call your mate with a car and connect the cables from your battery with a pair of jump leads to his battery (+ first ...) and make sure you get some nice contact. Then just lift the cables with the jump leads on and replace the battery. It might cost you a drink afterwards but it does always work.
Heres another idea. Use a car/truck battery charger. Connect the Positive (+)/Red jumper from the battery charger to your Alternators Positive (+)/Red connector. Than take the battery chargers Negative (-)/Black connector to any good Ground (-) on your vehicle ie a fender bolt or the hood latch.. some place under the hood with a good Ground (-) connection. Good luck hope this helps.
The instructions I give is what is written on the back of code saver unit, buy it and read it yourself I have no connection to the sales of this unit. Because it is always positive first, negative second when connecting two batteries together. ALWAYS, in every country in the world, look at your jump start instructions. Positive of dead battery to positive of healthy battery, negative of healthy battery to negative of dead battery. You got confused because when removing or placing a dead or live battery directly into a car with no other battery connected you go negative first then red. Simply put there is a difference between connecting two batteries and replacing a battery.
You don't have to go through all this. If you have a small 12 volt lawn mower battery, then just clip on the + terminal of the small battery to the + terminal of the car wire and the - terminal of the small battery to the - terminal of the car wire, and then remove the terminals from the car battery, first the positive and then the negative. The you can change your regular car battery. The small battery will keep all the information on the dashboard and radio from disappearing. It takes very little amperage to maintain it.
You should always take off the negative first & put it on last.Not a huge biggie with 12v although it will short out your spanner if you happen to touch it to earth with the positive still connected. On 24v system it is a must, I have seen rings melted into fingers by doing it wrong.
I thought the proper procedure for disconneting a battery is to alway undo the negative terminal first, then the postive terminal. And when installing the replacement batter, you reverse the order...positive first...negative last. What is the advantage of doing it as you mentioned??
There's a diode or some other protection between the 9V battery and the 12V accu. Don't do this with a plain 9V battery! When you directly connect a 9V battery to the 12V car battery , a undefined, possible high charge current will flow from the 12V car battery to the 9V battery. This may blow the 9V battery! Indeed, take care not to have any car lights on (including the interior lights, that switch on when one of the car doors are still open)
Hi. Just want to ask, which one is the better method, the one where you place backup power on the battery cable connectors, or through the OBD socket? What are the pros and ocns of each? Thank you in advance.
i CANT BELIEVE THAT CARS TO NOT HAVE A SECONDARY POWER SOURCE!!! Can you imagine if you had to reconfigure your COMPUTER every time you pulled out the plug?
that's a negative ground battery.You should ALWAYS disconnect the negative terminal FIRST and the positive last.When replacing,connect positive FIRST and negative last!
To the comments of Jose Peixoto & Larry Bui. You are right if you simply replace old for new battery and don't care if settings for radio and clock etc, are wiped out. However, if you want to retain the your settings the the video is correct.
I never heard any one recommend removing the positive first (unless it's a very old or odd car with positive ground.) The vast majority of cars have a negative ground. By removing negative first, you reduce the chances of shorting something to ground. If the wrench being used to remove the negative terminal should touch any grounded part of the car - no damage done. If you go for the + first and touch the tool to metal whilst the + is still connected, it's a direct short circuit of the battery. This could be very dangerous, allowing potentially hundred of amps to flow. Battery could explode, fire could occur, etc. And how could one possibly remove both simultaneously? Loosen both clamps simultaneously? What if the tool touches the car's frame 2 microseconds before you remove & loosen the negative?
It's a little dangerous. The 12 volt battery (depending on current charge) will be pumping voltage onto the 9 volts beyond it rated capacity, and could cause the 9 volt to heat up and blow. It could also happen during moments you have the new battery installed with your minder still connected.
Putting a 9V battery across a 12 V battery will cause potential difference and current starts flowing from 12 V to 9 V. Since the 9V batter is not a rechargeable, it may explode.
Hi - thanks for the great video. I have a mazda 2 neo (2006) where I needed to remove the battery. I decided to go with another 12v car battery (as the donor battery) instead of a 9v. All was going well until my one of my donor clips fell off, so I lost all power. Its possible my car has the ability to remember the settings for a short while, as all I lost was the clock time and speedo travel distance.Just to be sure, in case the ecu was reset, I ran the car for a while at idle to help it.
Jeez - what's with all the ungrateful comments about it being too long. Use the double playback speed if you're so impatient. I thought it was a good video 👍
If anybody wants to make their own memory minder, it's not just a battery with leads. If it was, the car battery would try to charge the 9V battery and perhaps blow it up. There has to be a diode built in that allows current to flow from the 9V battery into the car but not from the car battery into the 9V battery.
@@cmscott Have another look. He connects the 9V battery directly across the battery terminals. That's why I said the car battery will be charging the 9V battery. Can't have that.
@@cmscott I said the car battery would try to charge the 9V battery. The engine doesn't need to be running for that. There needs to be a diode in the memory minder lead to prevent that.
!!Dont do this with ordinary home made 9V battery ensemble hooked!!. Until you disconnect old 12V battery it will 'charge' small 9V and it is 'no no' to charge nonrechargable battery - they can explode. Even rechargable types are not supposed to be recharged with several amps as here will be the case. Gadget that is shown in video is (hopefully) protected from such scenario.
The reason to disconnect the negative first on a negative ground vehicle is because if the positive was disconnected first and somehow it accidentally touched any metal part of the vehicle, there would be an instant short. Sparks would fly and the battery may even explode due to the sparks igniting the hydrogen gas from the battery.
When I disconnect the battery on a Mitsubish Pajero iO for an extended period it messes up the tick-over. Fixing is simple when you know how, albeit a bit time consuming. Simplified, get the engine warm. Run the engine for 10 minutes, stop the engine. Restart the engine, switch on the air con, fan, open the electric windows, 10 minutes. Stop the engine. Restart the Engine, run for another 10 minutes and tick-over should be OK. I'm not making this up. The good news is that disconnecting the battery doesn't cancel the radio settings. Jack, Japan Alps
As cars have advanced changes have been needed in the old days it was the negative first (lead acid battery) so you avoided arcing these days consider the car has an engine control computer and gell and calcium batteries emit little or no hydrogen gas etc. Some suggest to avoid a voltage spike going through the computer's and voltage regulator's circuits remove the positive cable first to de-energize the wiring harnesses. Reconnect the negative cable last to avoid spiking those systems. -cont
What is the device you are using that is connected to the battery cable when removing the battery so you don't lose the code or car settings. What's the name and where I can get it from? Thanks your video is very helpful.Thanks!
Yes, removing the negative cable first ensures that you do not accidentally weld your wrench to any grounded metal when tightening or loosening the positive battery cable. There is no danger of arcing when removing the negative cable first because the frame and the negative terminal is at the same potential.
@@torTxoFognaTuluZ It does work... we hooked up our 12v trickle charger to the input inside my wife's jeep while I swapped out her battery. It worked perfectly, and we didn't reset all of the internal memories for her radio, presets.. etc etc.
4 years old and you didn't even clean the contact areas of the terminals ? I have to disagree with the Positive OFF and ON first , just for safety's sake alone : ) Nice video quality . Thank you and be well, mate : )
For replacing a new battery because of danger of fire caused by spark the black negative cable is always the first cable to remove and the last cable to connect. Some VW and Audi cars may need more than 9v to save memory.
heymargaretlook I don't have to make a video to show people how to do this...any fool can make a video. Several companies make an OBD II connected memory saver that connects to a 12 Volts DC source. A 9 volt battery is inadequate, for most applications.
heymargaretlook 1. Charging the car battery. 2. Cleaning the battery posts and clamps. 3. Testing the battery for battery internal resistance. 4. Higher priced autos have a greater memory battery drain. (In other words; it's a bad idea to rely on a battery source that may fail. And, it's just awkward to use the device you are using.)
314Tazo 1.This video has nothing to do with charging a car battery. 2. A 9v dc battery Nothing to do with Cleaning the battery posts and clamps 3. Most multimeters are powered by a 9v dc battery for Testing the battery for internal resistance and work perfectly 4. I suggest you tell the manufactures who worked out their product, patented it and spent a lot money manufacturing they are wrong.
Please don't. If the battery is not present, you could get low current voltage peaks from the charger that otherwise would get absorbed by the battery and may destroy your electric systems, especially on "dumb" chargers.
Voltage spikes are not related with 'dumb' or 'smart' but with cheap or decent quality charger. 'Smart' will cut the power, if batery not present. To be safe, best ask proffesional to do the job.
There's s simpler way. Just start the car and leave the car running when you change the battery. The alternator will keep your system happy. Make sure you keep the two terminals insulated during the switch out.
Changed my battery today using this method and easy as and done in 5 minutes with no loss of system. The alternator keeps power to the whole system whilst running.
Hi I have a 2007 model BF Mk2 and my car keeps all radio codes and settings if you remove the battery you just need to press FM and all the presets are there!!!
I was thinking about doing like you described but the clamp on the new battery will be in the way when connecting to the car. I prefer to use a backup battery.
Hi mate, can you please tell me what camera and lighting you are using for this video. It looks so professional. I want to buy a camera this weekend and I just saw your vid. thanks.
Why did you remove the positive terminal first? What the common wisdom on that is is to remove the negative terminal first in order to lessen the chance of a short through the wrench to the chassis if you remove the positive terminal first. As long as you are careful I doubt it matters much, but the negative first is what I have been told.
can i use this device to all modern car to avoid the NON START issue when i disconnect the batery lead when i need to make a job on the engine? cause im afraid to disconect negative cable to work on the engine cause im afraid the engine wont start then,,, cause of the DAMN electronics, alarm code or anti theft code *AND I ll be obligated to go to the dealer THATS SOMETHING AS A TECH I DONT WANT TO DO,, can you recommend me a webpage to know more about this stuff
That doesn't always work as some cigar lighters do not have power unless the key is turned on. Some have power all the time and those would work with the memory saver hooked into the lighter. The lighters that only have power when key is turned on won't have the connection to the power system in order to keep power to the system.
I have used that 9 volt battery device there is no diode it worked ok for me they sell them at auto shops they wouldn't sell them if they were dangerous
The diode has nothing to do with AC. If correctly wired, a diode would prevent the 12V battery from trying to back-feed & charge the lower, 9V battery. That being said, most 9V batteries have enough internal impedance to prevent any substantial current flow to charge, thus little danger exists. I wouldn't leaves it connected this way for hours, but several minutes should not be any problem.
Great idea but I can't find one of these memory minders for sale anywhere. There are some that plug into the cigarette lighter instead of going onto the battery leads but I don't see how that works.
@@gregmatthies8128 - Thanks. I've now bought a jump starter which has an auxilliary outlet to provide a cigarette lighter-type connection. However, now the weather is warmer the old battery is coping OK so I can wait another year :-)
How does this not blow up your 9 volt battery by shorting 12 Volts 13 Amps through it in a dramatic dangerous explosion? I guess you are relying on the battery being Dead? however I dont think that's a good idea unless you check first with a meter.
i mean... if the vehicles are touching it's not really a problem as far as jump starting a vehicle is concerned. if you have no other choice and must jump a car but one of your jumper cables is damaged or you don't have any but can find so single heavy wire that's long enough I don't see why you couldn't park them together and use what you have to connect the hot side. when you hook up it should even be able to arc through paint and fuse on its own but if not you could jump on the hood of one of the cars it would be like if you were connecting a clamp to a crusty old battery terminal.