I'm in the process of doing this job, and I have to say, out of all the how-to videos I've watched, this has to be the best and most thorough one I've seen. Very good ! And thanks for all the info !
Just got done with dropping my tank. The steps are perfect. Since I’m doing on the ground without a whole car lift, I found that dropping the spare tire is well worth the time and effect, gives you a ton more room. Thanks for the video!!!
This video is awesome! You covered pretty much every step, a lot of people skip the hard parts (like how to disconnect the vent lines which can be a pain). You're awesome man keep it up!
thanks for your video, because of you i could (well my stepson help also) but because of that reason I don't know what happened that after that he install the pump, why is not reading how much gas i got in the thank, what did "we" did wrong? please help....
Well done video Brian! I just did mine and for some reason my 2011 LT 4WD is a little different of a set up. But really appreciated the video and taking the time to put it out there for every one. 🙏
Best most detailed description I've seen yet, thank you, I noticed on another video the raised filled in circle by your metal bar 07:22 had another white round evap connection like the bigger one to the left.
TIP! If you are a schmuck (like me) and need to drop your gas tank while lying on your back underneath your vehicle. I used 3 ratchet straps, 2 across the tank (in the factory, steel band locations and 1 pulled around the back of the tank. That third strap allows you to keep the tank from sliding rearward as you lower it. I used a jack to do the lowering and the straps as a limiter, to lift it back up, the straps did most of the work. (the straps also make it easier because you can move the jack out of your way if necessary. As you will see it is necessary to lower the tank to access the connections but you can't lower the tank until you disconnect them... Yeah, exactly! Be very careful and lower it slowly! The fuel pump output has almost zero slack and the rollover (?) valve (large conn. on top at the back end of tank) passes over a cross member and therefore can easily be damaged (disconnect it before lowering more than an inch or so) . I used the bottom of a plastic water bottle and the factory hose clamp to keep fuel from pouring out of the filler tube after removing the hose. The 3rd strap is the key, without it the tank will continually slide rearward and get hung up on the rear end and will try to slide off the jack. It's tedious since you have to, many times, release the straps and re-adjust but is better than breaking the connectors or dropping the tank. Good Luck!
Not to nitpick but it's actually 2007-2014... 2006 was the last year of the GMT-800 generation. Appreciate the video of course, nicely detailed and instructional, easy to follow! Well done.
Dude are freaking awesome....This was I on the most informative video I've seen..Save me and my family from having to go to the "Stealership".$364.00 savings..Thank you so much brother..
My 07 Burb leaks fuel only when I fill up. Which line in the video could be the culprit? By the time I pull away from the pump and park, it's stopped leaking.
Thank you Brian Eslick for making an awesome how to video. I was able to change the fuel pump myself and saved nearly $200. What's your favorite beer and where do I send the 6 pack to?!
I have several codes referring to the fuel pump control modual. 8 to be accurate. It started with system voltage high low voltage codes on the circuit. Then control mod internal performance code and long term memory performance code. I replaced battery and alternator and same codes. Not sure where the ground is but I cleaned up the block ground, firewall and one more under driver side frame. Still happening. This cleared the codes for transfer case codes I was having. Just dont know what to check now or to just take it in to have the pump replaced. Looks expencive and not something I'm able to do in my home shop
My 2008 Tahoe is acting up, stalled on me a couple times and wouldn’t turn back on after a couple tries it turned back on if I accelerated it would wanna die. Also starting throwing misfire code and says fuel Rail Pressure Sensor needs to be replaced. Is this a bad fuel pump??
You think i could use a floor jack without a block of wood if i emptied my gas tank? In other words, will the weight of an empty gas tank be light enough to where i could only use a floor jack?
You didn't use a piece of steel to remove that pump retainer ring? Brass or aluminum only. Steel on steel, spark fly, tank go boom just as Ralf says below.
And the name or part number for the second evap line you disconnected mine broke at the charcoal canister connecter part. If you could help me out that would be so awesome
You have to take the filler neck apart from underneath. And he used a transfer pump. Once you get the neck apart you should be able to slide the pump Lines down the neck and then transferred to a gas can. It’s a pain in the butt. I wish you luck.
Jose Maldonado on that year maybe inside the fuel tank and you would not change it and less you're changing the fuel pump. If not it's going to be on the left side of the vehicle on the frame rail. So you can follow the fuel lines from the motor back to the gas tank and if you don't see it in the line then it's in the tank.
Comarade Lee crank no start..no fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge,banging on fuel tank and it starts...lots of things you can go to verify the fuel pump is at fault