Very helpful so thanks for posting. I think it would’ve been better to explain the benefits and use of a capacitor in the beginning versus the end, but I finally understood.
I bought this same Cap. Charged it per the instructions. The volt meter on the cap turned off. Then it came back on. Now it’s off again. Everything works. System sounds great. Headlights in my 2019 Tundra don’t dim. So what’s wrong with the cap?? Did I do something wrong? Or is it just an expensive distribution block now?
That was an okay video guys thank you for the information, but my question remains, can I use a battery trickle charger to charge my 10 farad capacitor
+Just Trickky I was curious about that myself. Seems the microprocessor in this cap turns off when LED activity stops rather than a particular voltage is reached. If they had actually connected the cap to the battery, the LED readout would have stabilized to battery voltage and turned off.
I don't know but sometimes a cap works because I had a mono amp that was going in protective mode , even after big three and audio battery upgrade ! so I got a cap and the amp don't even get warm anymore
I did the big three... I upgraded my alternator... i have a second battery... I drop the bass in the mix, my voltage meter on my truck says around 12-13v and my lights dim... I ordered a 3 farad cap and im hoping it will solve the issue... is there anything else i should revisit. Like Grounding or something...
+Bully ThaKidd If you did all those upgrades and you're still getting dimming then yes, absolutely go through and check all your grounds. Sounds like you could be losing some voltage to a bad connection somewhere.
Specifically the ground cable from your battery to the chassis, it should be two wires of greater or equal gauge to the ones coming off the positive terminal. Also make sure the battery terminals and connectors are clean for both positive and negative. The grounding to your amp is probably fine. Since you upgraded your alternator, you may also want to replace the cable going from the alt to the battery with a thicker gauge, but that wire isn't a fix for your problem, it's just recommended as a matter of cause. Unless of course they dim over time, not just when the beats drop. In that case you should definitely suspect the alternator wire.
First thank you for the info. It was a great way to show how to hook a capacitor up to a sound system with the car board example, it mainly help because you can see everything on one area and I was able to transfer that example into my car and it work perfectly,thanks again.
I watch this channel for comedy purposes. First they say put the Cap anywhere you want,... then they say put as close to the amp as possible. The second is the CORRECT way as a Cap discharges instantly and you dont want to lose any of the basically useless charge. Put in a second battery and an isolater instead of a cap. And do the BIG THREE, your car will thank you
I have a 4 farad cap, I am charging it but it was a over night charge and still it has not hit the full charge. I use a DMM on a 20 v and test it and still it is only at about 7.56 v. I’m using the resistor that it was supplied with. Am I doing something wrong???
Need help. i have a 12v battery and a 3.0f cap. I'm running a 1200 sundown amp which needs around 14.5v to function properly. my alt puts out around 15v. Here's my question, my cap came with a test light rather than a resistor, so when i pre-charge my cap it's only at 12v. So should i attempt to charge my cap with the test light and the engine running so it's at a higher voltage??? Basically how do i pre-charge my cap into the 14s to properly supply my power hungry sundown amp? Or should a pre-charge of 12v be sufficient to prime the cap? With no cap amp is cutting out at high volume due to voltage drops.
I totally dig the table car, I wouldn't recommend driving it at high speeds. My question is, I don't exactly have a voltage issue. I do know that I'm running 1000 w rms on a stock alternator and a single battery in a 2019 Kia. I'm hoping this will reduce the risk of killing my alternator and battery, but if nothing else I'd like to Know if it would potentially draw any more power than I'm already taking
Allen, I am building a 02 Chevy Tahoe. I just put the stereo system in it. Now it has a pioneer AVIC 5200 nex double din head unit, each door has a 6.5” speaker and a 1” tweeter with a crossover that has 3 settings +3db,0db,-3db.i have no idea what sounds better yet. Haven’t messed with them. They are Polk audio component sets DXI6501. I have a new Rockford Fosgate prime 300.4 4channel amp running the component sets. It has 2 sets of rca’s front and rear hooked up to it off the deck. For the bass I have a 18” custom built sub that I had running off my old ass db1000.1 Punch amp. I had stupid ass alternator noise! It made me loose my mind trying to find it. I changed out the deck, new RCA’S new grounds straight to the clean frame. I even built a complete new wiring harness from the fuse box to the deck and didn’t use any factory wire. Got it all done and turned it on and it was gone. Next morning I hopped in to head to work, fired up the truck and there it was loud as ever!! I almost blew a gasket! My db1000 was makin a ton of noise also ,so I gave it about 4 hammer fist hits and that quit that but now it has the power of a 100 watt amp so I fucked it up somehow. So I bought a new amp a massive audio N4 claims 2000rms. I seriously doubt that.... but brah,,,,,,, The hum is still there as soon as you turn the key on but only for a few seconds then gone. What the fuck it it!!!! I just picked up the 10 fared hybrid capacitor , same brand as in this video. Got it off a friend for 40 bucks. Fosgate sells the same exsact one but says there logo and it’s like 500! So I have that to put in and I’m going to switch from 4 gauge wire to 0awg wire. My friend also has a huge kinetic battery he’s going to hook me up with. For like 125 bucks so I’m hoping the cap will get rid of it. I have been messing with audio for like 20 years so I know better then to run the rcas next to the power and all that. I think part of the hum is coming off the alternator and thru the firewall so I might Change it also. If you or anyone has any ideas throw them my way. I have not ground the rca to the radio basket. I think that’s ghetto so not doing that . That’s part of the reason I said f it and bought a new deck in the first place.
If not connected, I saw the voltage slowly going down. Does it go all the way to 0 and have to charge with the charging tool again ? Or once installed it holds voltage
You guy's did so well... Very clean and esay to understand. To watcher... Take note to plug de capacitor closer than possible to the amp... Then else the cap will only used as a filter.....
Well guys, thank you so much for truly clearing up any misconceptions about why a cap should be used, my only question would be then if a half farad cap cleared up the alt noise then why are there such large caps and cap banks on the market if they're mainly for filtering alternator noise? And the nvx looks identical to the pyle 5 farad except it has the terminal block (very nice) and the smoked plexi.
1st rule I learned is never hook up ground untiil your finished conecting positive, the reason for this is you accidentally touch a hot wire to any metal (ground) you get arc!! Connect all grounds last. Same as when installing a battery in your car!!
Table car looks siick!! but it looks like its mad out of wood, so a metal bar where the drill bits are to close the loop and actually show us how the devices look like in use would be better and a more realistic setup, perhaps ending the vid with a preformance of the decice, other than that, keep doing what you guys are doing, I learned a lot!!
Great presentation learned a lot. I have a question I am building a buggy and will be installing lights with delays. I like to use a capacitor or two to power my lights and possibly other electronic. Can this be done,? I would like to have the power when needed to power like head lights running lights, fog lights. Is a capacitor just for boosting amplifiers or they can be used like for my project??? TY in advance.
Bernie Jimenez caps are not battery's. They only store a minimal about it power they are designed to let out that power in a split second when the stereos bass drops a hard note. If you charged a cap and hooked a light up to it it would shine full brightness for less than a second before you could see it quickly getting dimmer until dead about 5-10 seconds total depending on size of cap.
Hey guys - thanks for the video. In the process of upgrading the sound system in my truck DYI style and basically have no experience or knowledge. So I am learning as I go. Next subject is how to tune the system and set filters to the different speakers so they get a clean freq signal... anyway...I just bought a T-Spec V8 3.0 cap and it didnt come with the resistor bulb. So I have 2 questions for you; 1. What kind of charging tool is that and do you know where I can buy it? 2. Can I use my automotive battery charger as a power source for the initial charge vs hooking up to my truck battery? Thanks for your help and for posting the video. And the table car IS SWEET! I am going to scour CL and the web and see if I can find a good deal on one!
Thanks for uploading this video. I just received my Stinger 5-Farad Capacitor and was searching high and low for the charging bulb that used to come with caps. Even the directions didn’t mention what the little circuit board was for! Do you have Stinger’s ear to mention updating their instruction booklet?
Thanks for the video I’m having a lot of feedback noise or whining noise every time I install a capacitor this is the second one I have installed brand new same noise if I bypass the capacitor no noise at all can you help.? By the way I am running to separate ground wires
Capacitors are Device of Semi-conductors that is non polorized Electrolysis. The is filter also a Power Saver. It main is Amperage. The amplifier lacks Ampere in high Sound like Bass on loud volume
How did you guys make the grounding table? I have been trying to figure it out for the longest time. I ended up buying a 30v 10amp variable power supply. But a car table would be AMAZING and would make an awesome conversation piece
Hey guys I watch a lot of your videos. I need with hooking up a Loc to my 2016 ford fusion se. I can't find a 12volt wire for the Loc turn on and off. Can you help me ?
that is not correct you take the negative off 1st and you put the negative in last so actually if all you need to do is disconnect the power you simply remove the negative and leave the positive on and you simply connect the negative when done...remember the positive is a hot wire and you are trying to prevent arcks....
Why the charging green light dont go off ? Have it connected 20 mins or more. Its a stinger 10 farad capacitor.. does it take longer to full charge ???
He actually hook the roll wire up and the thing never got a charge from the battery after the charging tool. That was the negative cable and that is why it was discharging smh he was about to blow something up lol
There is alot of negative misinformation in this thread. If your intention is to use a 3F cap to run more than 3KW RMS then you will definitely want to upgrade your power source, i.e. a battery and your alternator as your additional battery will require a larger generator, i.e. alternator, to charge. The point of a cap here is the same as that in an ac/dc converter. It is meant to compensate during low periods nut will experience diminishing returns. Most of the time a 1F cap on a
So that means besides supplying power to the amps I can also set up a relay for the remote turn from the + of the capacitor! I watced vid this to get an idea of the power distribution from it. Thanks!
It s cold here where I live and my battery 🔋 completely died so I got a new battery so now every time I turn on my system but the capacitor is still off in my music is playing but when I turn off my vehicle these numbers start to popp up so am I doing something wrong or is it working properly
Since the nvx capacitor has a built in distribution block can I wire the neg from the body of the car to the cap and cap to the amp? Or is it best just to wire 2 separate negs frame to amp and frame to cap
Running a 1000rms amp in a 04 chevy diesel so it already has two batteries in the engine bay. Would you guys recommend another battery for the amp or just a capacitor and or bigger alternator? Thank you
I have a Question my batteries 🔋 completely died in my truck so I got a new battery but before I get my new battery my capacitor completely died with no power so by me having a new battery do I I have to recharge of the capacitor or does the battery do it because every time I turn my car over the compressor is still off and the numbers that show up is L. Hi then it’s shows up hi with are other numbers so is that good or bad
I have a 2000 watt inverter will this work for when I have a high current pull to help buffer the surge from the battery? If so should it be in parallel or series with the battery?
hay! can you address any issues with over using or under using capacitors? ie. too big of a cap hindering amps being released to the amp. is this a myth? any input?
Anyone has the link for the charging tool these guys used? I tried asking them but like they just did this video and left. My capacitor only came with the resistor. I know how to use it but this device seems cooler!
I am using a 4.5 farad VM as a filter for the cathode heater on a single ended triode amplifier that uses the 833-A vacuum tube, a monstrous tube that takes 10 volts at 10 Amperes just to heat the cathode. This is the only way I know how to get rid of the 120 Hz power supply ripple from the rectifier through a 0.1 Ohm dropping resistor.
So i have a soundstream AR1.8000D just for bass and i don't know what size fuse should i be using because the manual doesn't say. and i have a 1 fared stiffening capacitor and a other boss 16000 for my mids do i need a bigger alternator for this setup
I recently installed a fosgate rfc 1 single farard cap and this cap has no lcd display included , how dose one go about obtaining a lcd voltage readout and installing it??
Great video, i have same problem. Mine is strange though. I just moved from Los Angeles to Chicago and have a 1500 watt amp on the internal speakers and a 2k watt pushing 2 12"'s. all was good in LA but after 1 month of being here my sound started dropping out. I thought it was my battery but after swapping out 8 batteries in 12 months i started watching you tube videos and realized it's my Alternator. I bought a 250 volt alternator and the first day i was out Banging and all was good then on my way to work 2 days later back to the same, sound dropping out with that fuzzy tone like a battery power3ed boom box dying on you. This weekend i am upgrading to a big 3 - if that doesn't fix it where else do i look for a fix. I cant believe switching cities would cause the issue. I get that i don't drive as fast here because this place is CROWDED and traffic is a B!
Thank you sooo much for this video! I had my battery die and so did the capacitor. So after replacing my battery with a optima battery. After 9 years of the capacitor being installed it had never died completely until now. I had total brain fart of how to charge it. Thanks again!
Put the cap in series with anything that runs off of 12v. when the thing turns off, your cap is charged (make sure its in series... not parallel. google if your not sure)
Any car 12 volt light will work. Hook up one wire from the light to the batter positive and the other wire from the light into the cap positive. The charging pc that they come with is nothing more than a resistor not letting the full 12 volts thru at one time. When the light goes completely out the cap is charged.
I'm trying to charge a 24v capacitor, I cannot just hook 2 12v's to it, add it will make a closed circuit and the 12s won't be able to handle a 24 load, correct? How can I charge it??
At 9:10 engine whining from the distributor can be eliminated with some systems by simply taking a piece of wire stripping the shielding and wrapping it around the RCA on the back of the stereo and let it hang there twisted at the bottom. There's videos here on RU-vid that show how that works.
i just sold my car and kept my audio system.. quick question, do i need to re-use a resistor to install the capacitor in my NEW vehicle? or skip that step?
hey guys really like all the videos you guys put out the cap that you are using is it one of the top of the line or one of the 30.00 dollar ones, also im intrested in putting a cap on my motorcycle i am limited in space, i do have bags wondering how or if anything will it benefit me in installing one,going back the cap shown in vid is it 10.5 in tall.hmm!!!
Besides the fact that you were both in each other's way tell me how to do it and show me how to do it are two different things you showed me how to do the install with the distribution block built in talking about the post maybe you should actually show multiple types at the same time and maybe even talk about Buzz bars and or manually wiring multiple groups together
Can I install a JL Audio 300 watt r.m.s. mono amp. To a single JL 12" sub, in a Lexus hybrid? Will it destroy my electric battery? Breden and Allen, I love your cable car ground! ;)
Pretty sure they used that because it came with that particular capacitor. Also yes, a 12v light bulb works, they could also use a car battery charger without issues so long as it's not a piece of crap charger that can't set its own current limit without the resistance of a battery. You can also buy a large ohm value resistor on ebay for less than a dollar that would work.
I heard you guys say not to hook grounds together because it could cause a noise ground loop. I was under the impression you should always keep all grounds connected together. What up? OH yeah cool table car display!
Which capacitor rating is suitable for an SUV sound with: -2 8k subs watts each on 6k mono block, and -2 pairs of 6 by 9” speakers and 6” speakers on 8k watts 4 Chanel amp
Do you have to run a separate power cable for the capacitor coming off the battery? Or can you just run 1 into the capacitor and then split it into the amplifier?
what happens if you install the capacitor without charging it? In my case, when I installed my capacitor I didn't know any better and did not charge it. This was 10 YEARS ago wow. How can I know if I need to replace it? I had to disconnect it because I was moving my system from one car to another. Before I go and install it again: How do I know this capacitor still good? Do they wear out?
Screw all this. I have my amps powered their own dedicated deep cycle battery that's hooked to a battery charger that's hooked to a 1,000 watt power inverter that's plugged into my car's cigarette lighter.
I don't think your lighter port was designed to accommodate a 80 amp draw to power that inverter. Also why in the world would you invert it just to convert it back to DC for your second battery? So much energy wasted for no reason. If you're really trying to isolate the battery then connect them with a sufficiently rated diode or just put a resistor in series.
I have a 900w amplifier and I'm having unwanted noise from the speakers. I'm thinking of buying a capacitor but wouldn't know which one to pick. Is a 2 farad a good choice?
Unwanted noise is usually hum from the power cables being too close to the signal cables. It has nothing to do with a capacitor and generally a 900w amplifier alone isn't enough to warrant a cap unless you have a failing battery, in which case you should get that taken care of first. If you have power cables traveling on the same side of the car as your signal leads you should change that right away, you'll see a noticeable improvement. If not that then you may have a bad quality junction, splitter, or crappy RCA plugs/wires causing that problem. Test the resistance of the signal cables and see if any terminal is reading high relative to the others.
When running at a significantly high volume eventually causes the amp/head unit to go into power protect mode. This means that your battery is draining and your alternator isn't able to give it enough power to maintain equilibrium. Before you do that though, first check that your main grounding cable from your negative battery terminal is good and beefy, and that it's making good contact with the chassis. Also consider replacing your battery first, as this could solve your problems as well.
i have 2 kicker crv's in a ported box that i am pushing with a massive n4.. i have a massive 4 cap.. my problem is when i turn my stereo off i get this huge rumbling sound from my woofers.. im wondering if i should take the cap off.. what do y'all think?
Sounds like more of an amplifier/headunit problem than a capacitor problem to me. I don't know the details though, i guess it might be the low pass filter in the thing? They have coils to shape the sound characteristics and when power is cut off the coil's magnetic field collapses, causing a jolt of voltage... I don't think that'd be audible as a rumble though, so who knows.. Maybe a combination of caps and coils for a steeper drop off, but that's literally a shot in the dark as to what's causing that. I will stick with my original guess though, that it's not anything to do with your capacitor.
