For more information on Delphi Technologies MaxStart Batteries, visit our website! www.delphiautoparts.com/usa/e... How do you charge and test absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries? The Delphi Training Series breaks it down for you.
This video is a model of how to disseminate the needed information clearly and succinctly. Thank you. As a bonus, I learned a lot from reading the informed comments.
i am getting my options together for a small battery bank for home to be used with a solar array, does anyone know if can i add automotive agms to my list of options? seems like posts may be a bit different but i can get around that.
I have a new V-Max agm SLR 125 battery which I am going to use in my camper van for House power. The van has a 300 amp inverter from the van battery. Which would be better to charge the SLR battery? Connect the power from the alternator/battery via a 25 amp fuse and relay into the SLR 125 while driving or use a Smart Charger from the inverter?
for my application i have 2 6 volt agm deep cycle batteries hooked up in series. i have been using an older 6-12 volt battery charger when i m home and i just realized that i need to get one for AGM specifically, can you recommend something that its going to be more than 1.6 amp and on the affordable side? can i get something rated 20 amps or should i get 10 amps or 30 amps. thank you .
Mam jeszcze jedno pytanie. Posiadam aku AGM 12V/8Ah , ładowałem go Kulonem i władowałem w niego 8,02Ah prostownik nie zakończył ładowanie czy dalej go ładować ,gdy przekroczyłem nominalną pojemność aku czyli 8Ah?
Great video and information, I wasn't aware that AGM batteries have a higher voltage. What is your opinion on Battery Chargers with desulfation mode built in such as CTEK, Noco Genius, and Pulse Tech charger's have?
The conductance/ capacitance battery capacity testers do a good job when comparing batteries of the same manufacturer's model and can point to weaknesses even on new batteries, and different tester mfg's can give different capacity numbers for the same battery, and they can give very consistent results. The CCA capacity calculated is just that, it is not directly measured. Tests are non-destructive so the current draw is minimal. Narrowed your selection for a new battery to a specific model? Use the tester to check several of those same models on the shelf and select the one giving the highest test results. Some brands vary as much as +/- 15% even within the same lot/ same day code, so why not take the best? Other brands may vary less than 2%. Btw, the tester used in this video looks like a variant of a Midtronics EXP800, one that wil give consistent results. Another reliable tester that gives slightly higher CCA results than the EXP800 is the Snap-On YA2636, and its results are about 10% that carbon pile results, which are the most definitive. Performing a couple of back to back carbon pile tests, (with a several minute break between tests to allow internal cooling), gives the most definitive results. And testing at the high current will sometimes cause even a new battery to fail open. (Out of a lot of 3000 one year old charged but unused AGM batteries from a well-know AGM brand mfg, fully one third failed my carbon pile test, which in this case, tested an 800 CCA rated AGM battery at 600 A for 15 seconds at 60 F. Interestingly, it was the internal bus of the cell at the same location in each battery that was responsible for the majority of the failures.) Besides the venerable Sun VAT40 carbon pile tester mentioned in this video, other good ones are the Sun VAT28 and later versions, and Snap-On MT1560 and MT1590. (A not so-good CC pile tester is from Harbor Freight, whose flimsy construction is borderline dangerous and steel terminal clamps will melt grooves into the battery's terminals at high current testing.) (If the carbon pile tester has not been used recently at high current, perform some low level current tests to drive off the absorb moisture from the carbon disks to reduce spalling.)
I've got 5 of these AGM batteries. They show to be completely dead with my meter...but when I hook up the AGM charger, the charger says full. I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?
It's cool every once in a while to bump into a video where someone actually knows what he's talking about, when you realise you haven't lost precious time once you wached it...
good explaining there. Unless I'm dead wrong, when you measured 960 CCA on the battery I assume the battery was near room temperature. That's normal. Put the battery in a deep freezer for a day, yank it out and do test again. I bet it will be closer to the rating. Thanks.
Thanks for explaining charging batteries, charge %, etc! How does the load tester calculate battery health (roughly)? How reliable is the battery health calculation (will it be different based on temperature, charge level, internal resistance)? What is internal resistance?
@@hjer731i think it was the rough terrain I have where I live, all 4 batteries I had in my life failed that way, flooded and suddenly failed without advice, after that battery I checked at autozone before failure, I started using AGM batteries and man they ate holding like champs, 4 years now (I normally should be in my 2nd)
hi i have a gm battery reading 13v off load charged it up at 2 a x48 hrs but on load test it fails on crank test meter only 1/4 on meter but voltage is there is battery duff open circuit 12.9 v can you advise
Yes, it's probably sulphated. @@somaday2595 The open circuit voltage of a battery proves very little as to how good it is. An easy way is to fully charge the battery, then put a load such as 2 car headlights on and see how long it lasts down to 11.1 volts (no lower). Buy a cheap multimeter if necessary. If the battery is say, 70 amp hours and a draw of about 10 amps only lasts for an hour or not much longer, you're battery is poor. It should last quite a few hours, especially being AGM. (NB about 6 hours down to 10.5 v at 10 amps when new). Strictly speaking, the battery capacity would often be tested down to 10.5 volts at the C/20 rate, or 3.5 amp draw for a 70 amp hour battery, but a pair of headlamps will probably be about 2 x 60 watt bulbs, so be probably near a 10 amp draw. I wouldn't discharge a car battery down to 10.5 volts on load, as the test itself could shorten its life. You could take your battery in to a garage offering free tests, but most batteries a few years old are down in capacity, it just depends how much, and whether you want a new one or to try & get a bit longer out of your existing battery. (Human nature is sometimes for a battery supplier to want to sell you a new one).
Make sure your battery connections & the earth strap are tight & not corroded. Undo them if necessary & sand them off, but remember your radio code can get lost if you don't keep 12 volts present, even by a small 12 v battery fed into the cigarette lighter socket. I hope this helps somebody, though no doubt you've sorted things by now yourself.
Is it possible to charge a agm battery that’s reading 8v just by hooking it up to a working battery in a car threw jumper cables and let it charge for a while ?
I have read that is one way around chargers that refuse to charge AGM batteries. Just don't let the voltage of your car battery get too low in the process.
I have had multiple AGM batteries in campers I was always quoted a life expectancy of five years 😢 but living in Australia in a hot 🥵 state I am lucky to get two years
on my agm battery it says cycle voltage 14.5 to 14.9 volts. im running solar and my inverter kicks out at 15 volts for over load protection. so will i get a full charge at 13,8 volts?
My AGM battery has a charging requirement that states it should not exceed 14.4V, but the Schumacher battery charger I was using would ramp up to almost 17V, which caused my battery to overheat and fail. Not all AGM batteries are the same and have different charging requirements. Following completion of the charging process and after I allowed it to rest in order to remove the surface charge, it was found to have lower CCAs and voltage. The fact that I didn't have much success with that battery charger is not surprising.
im thinking that any battery that says non spillable is an AGM battery....all of my jump start internal batteries say non spillable on them but do not say AGM on the battery label....but like i said i would assume they have to be AGM since the product can be moved around etc..and wouldnt want acid to spill out..hence the AGM technology...thanks
Non-spillable refers to what would happened if the battery casing were breached, not the battery technology. So if non-spillable and the battery was smashed, the electrolyte would not flow. AGM batteries are non-spillable because the electrolyte is in the form of a paste. Gel batteries, also non-spillable, have electrolyte in gel form, often made by adding fumed silica to the sulfuric acid/ lead sulfate solution.
In the mornings when I check the voltage on my car battery(AGM) it shows between 12.2/12.3 volts. Its been this way since I bought the car brand new. I had the car not even two years. Is this normal? I also noticed that if I am driving it was show 12.4 volts and when I take my foot off the gas it goes to 14.5 volts.
Its normal to get a higher voltage when you left off the gas, and lower voltage when accelerating Agm batteries gives you less CCA (when cold) perfectly normal This with modern vehicles
@@Eli-kr5bm In what world does accelerating a gasoline engine cause the battery voltage to drop? EV or hybrid, maybe, but that only applies to the traction battery and not the 12v. Something is seriously wrong there.
Float means the charger backs off the voltage to just over the fully charged level (i.e. another 0.5 volts over the full charge of 12.7 volts) to prevent overcharging. Deltran battery tenders are sometimes referred to as "float chargers" that automatically do this. Most battery chargers do not allow you to adjust the voltage. They either automatically "float" back or they will ruin the battery (even if left on "trickle") if you leaven them connected for many days / weeks.
I got a Napa legend AGM that's 8 years old had it tested 3 months ago guy did the testing didn't believe how old it is still going strong I always charge mine at 0.1 c. . See it goes another 8 years be something
Will an alternator on an early model car charge an AGM battery to full charge in say a 1 hour drive? Or do some modifications need to be made to the alternator?
Anthony Amalfitano As I've recently learned, typically the alternator on an older car will charge the battery with constant Voltage (~14V), and the battery will drop the absorbed current (Amps) from (a typical limit of) 10 or 5A, depending on the car, up to 0A, when the internal resistance of the battery reaches its minimum. This will lead to an incomplete charge of the battery each time, decreasing the battery capacity over time, due to the fact, that sulfates forming on the battery plates are not completely moved back into electrolyte. A smart charger, on the other hand, will charge the battery at variable Voltage (V), while keeping a more or less constant current (A), and will drop both voltage and current as the internal resistance of the battery decreases, but will still try to keep current above ~0.5A, so that the battery gets charged to its maximum capacity, meaning more sulfates will be removed from the plates, and the aging process will be slower. That being said, many people will still find it easier to buy a new ~$100 battery an year (two, three) earlier, and skip all the fuzz with carrying around the heavy battery, charging it, etc.
Short answer: No and don't. Long answer, read on. Old car = Simple, right, but all lead acid batteries are basically the same: bulk to 80% then they need easing up. Regulator electronics have always had to work with that. AGMs in particular Optima's spiral/cylindrically formed ones need a higher finalising voltage of 14.7v but now some charger manufacturers are pulling back from that and just selling ones that go to 14.4 to avoid user error. Some people argue AGMs can take bulk to 90% some people say LA bulk to 60%. There are almost as many opinions as there are batteries. However, what the electronics finalise at, doesn't affect how fast the battery can be charged at. Most advice suggests 10-40% of a batteries 20hour capacity rate. Eg a 100aH at between 10-40 amps up to 80% (10 amps from 50% to 80% neglecting inefficiency 3 hours) then 4 hours or max amps linearly down to trickle ((10 down to 2 is ave 6a 98% means 18aH/6a and thus 3 hours of absorption until the charger says that's it). So 6-7 hours. A faulty regulator will let its alternator burn out a battery. A battery (LA or AGM or Gel) takes a long time to get to full charge. Forcing charge in reduces battery life. I hope his helps you and anyone who alights on this looking for enlightenment.
I watched the video, read some other articles.. but still am a bit overwhelmed with various specs and terminology with batteries. This is the info on my new AGM battery: •Charge/Absorbtion/Equalize between 13.8- 14.6 Volts at 77° F •Float/Standby between 13.4- 13.6 Volts at 77° F •Temperature corrected charging required This battery was just purchased and has not been installed. The voltage reads 12.75 with my very basic multimeter, set on DCV (20). Also, when tested the battery was in my cool garage, about 46-48°F. I've always understood that if a battery reads 12.7, that it is fully charged.. but looks like I may need to charge this one to 13.8 before installing? And charge at the right temperature? Does float mean 'when the key is off', and does charge/absorbtion/equalize mean when the car is on and the alternator is cranking juice to the battery? Thank you to anyone who can help me gain some clarity.. I experience add on the higher end of the scale, and i have to go over things about a million times before i get a picture in my head.
Some batteries do have numbers to say what they should be charged at when it is 77F, but then you need your battery to be at 77F and a charger you can set voltage and rates. Not many car owners have one of them. If you have an Optima battery chances are you're in the US and I suggest you get an optima battery charger. Because Optima make their batteries slightly differently - spiral/cylindrical. If you have another make of AGM buy a CTEK charger with temperature sensor and AGM mode. They keep updating model numbers. Then you don't have to worry as so long as you select AGM mode the charger takes care of the rest. Charge means charge. Bulk refers to the stage a battery can take a fast charge the bulk of the charging. Absorption refers to the point when the battery starts to say enough is enough you're working me to hard I need a cup of tea and please take it more easy on me. The battery slows its absorption rate. (Actually this is true of simple lead acid, Calcium types and AGM.) A modern charger measures the battery voltage and decides what charging voltage to apply and how much current to release on the battery depending upon the mode you select and the temperature it senses. (Put the sensor close to the battery.) If you measure the cars voltage say through cigarette lighter you will see some like the following: Car locked and has been overnight 12.6v (say, and there is debate about this, 75%) Open doors 12.3v (This does not mean you have a 1000 amp short circuit. It means battery voltage drops under load.) Key to position 2 (Hifi works and other stuff powered.) 12.1v you start the car it fires. The alternator kicks in and voltage increases soom getting to 13.8 and then topping out at 14.4 to 14.7v depending on car brand what their charging philosophy is and of course your battery - read on.... You may have a 160, 180 or 200 amp alternator but that is so it always has spare capacity and isn't balls out all the time. The car electronics tell the regulator what voltage to provide and what current to release to charge the battery. This is why you car often needs to know when it has been fitted with a new battery and exactly what battery it is. Often a car has space for a big battery but for a base model the manufacturer only fits a smaller one. Sometimes the manufacturer releases a technical advisory to dealer workshops saying: We have changed our minds. Car X should only be fitted with battery type Y and size ###.. (purchased from us of course). Car these days, 2000 on, are basically computers with wheels. If you think that this is overly complex. Believe me I am only scratching the surface. People think it is a battery how complicated can it be. They go to the auto parts store and wet behind the years looks up on an old chart and say you need one of these and whacks it in. No, no and no! What else? Don't trust their plug in testers a new battery is just as likely to fail. Get a Foxconn or a CTEK if you really want to splash out. Always read what your car manual has to say about charging. Probably only through the terminals in the engine bay - so the computers know what is going on. In general don't connect a charger to a running car. Best to wait until all car electronics have switched off - look if the car is still drawing power the charger thinks the battery state is different from what it really is. Even better to wait overnight. Of course that is not convenient, but it is what is best for the battery. If you drive every day the battery should get flat anyway. If you only drive every three weeks then of course the car alarm and stuff will drain power. I have had AGM batteries last 13 years and still be at SoH of 75% - again another debate is 75% enough. Well it starts it, but the car draws 20-30 amps and 75% of 90aH times, say, a 0.5 factor for fast discharge means 30mins to one hour of watching movies before it has had enough. This is why modern cars in showrooms have a power supply feeding cars 8am to 8pm and perhaps why you should ask for a new battery on a demonstrator. Sorry for long post, but I hope this helps you and anyone else looking for enlightenment.
@@Fleepage Not very helpful. "many years" means nothing. Googling the question showed up 6-10 years. Considering the extra cost, i've had conventional lead acid batteries last that same range.
@@KStewart-th4sk try to use a lead acid battery for things other than just starting your car & it's life will go down the shitter pretty quickly. Agm will last much longer. Esp for deep cycle applications
@@Fleepage You are not very helpful. "many years" means nothing. Googling the question came up with 6-10 years. Considering the extra cost of AGM batteries, i've had conventional lead acid batteries last that long.
I just bought a new battery at orielys. Agm 12v for 94 suburban. Rated 775 ccA I tested it. Got 750cca. 12.18v. Sticker says date 6/19. It's a super start label platinum agm.
When battery is stored it should be periodically charged, at least once a year. If your new battery voltage is 12.18 most probably it has not been charged for years and is already having some sulfation. To recover it needs to be charged at 14.6V till the current stops lowering (should be lower then 0.2% of capacity, like
It always was, because chemistry, physics, and other real-world things are complicated. Incredibly complicated, in fact. As I've grown older I realize that it only seemed like things were simpler in the past because I was young and other people were taking care of complicated things for me, until I could handle them on my own. There is an aspect of things being more complicated because tech has progressed, and people want things to do ever-more-refined things for them. For example, a car used to have a simple AM radio in it. It was easy to operate, but very limited... you had to listen to whatever was on the air. Now people want to listen to exactly what they want, requiring bluetooth links to their smartphone, apps, GPS and maps, backup cameras, and so on. Maybe someday things will get simpler again when we can just tell our car to do what we want in plain language and it will do it. But that will be long after I'm gone. lol
The key points you need to remember and use are simple. Just know that AGM batteries are a thing, they are different than regular batteries, they need a special charger, and they will last longer if you charge them rather than relying on your alternator to charge them. That's all you really need to know... the rest is just explaining why... once you get the battery and charger, all you need to know is charge it when it drops below 12.4v... that's it... it's really that simple in practice... in theory ... well in theory all things are complicated. They always have been, always will be. But if your not engineering batteries, then all you really need to know is how to use & maintain them.
I think I have the same one. It is testing to see if the cells need to be desulfated, and if so will keep voltage up to "blast" the cells. If not, voltage will drop down and even taper off to 12.7 closer to 100%. Hope this helps.
Anthony Amalfitano asked Can I charge an AGM battery to full charge in say a 1 hour drive? Short answer: No and don't even try. Long answer, read on. All lead acid batteries are basically the same: bulk to 80% then they need easing up. Regulator electronics have always had to work with that. AGMs in particular Optima's spiral/cylindrically formed ones need a higher finalising voltage of 14.7v but now some charger manufacturers are pulling back from that and just selling ones that go to 14.4 to avoid user error. Some people argue AGMs can take bulk to 90% some people say LA bulk to 60%. There are almost as many opinions as there are batteries and noses. However, what the electronics finalise at, doesn't affect how fast the battery can be charged at. Most advice suggests 10-40% of a batteries 20hour capacity rate. Eg a 100aH at between 10-40 amps up to 80% (10 amps from 50% to 80% neglecting inefficiency, 3 hours) then 4 hours or max amps linearly down to trickle ((10 down to 2 is ave 6a 98% means 18aH/6a)) and thus 3 hours of absorption until the charger says that's it. So 6-7 hours allowing for inefficiency, testing routing but any regeneration programme time on top. A faulty regulator will let its alternator burn out a battery. A battery (LA or AGM or Gel) takes a long time to get to full charge. Forcing charge in reduces battery life. Why salesmen are right to say get a clever charger. I hope his helps you and anyone who alights on this looking for enlightenment.
You forgot to tell us "How to Charge and Test Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries". All I saw was you TESTING a FLOODED battery. But I can tell you know what you're talking about.
And some batteries like the batteries they make today are crap because they use alimony in another materials other foreign materials that do not accept a good charge when it comes to charging a battery I also want to know and they also keep that in mind to all of yours out there and professional car mechanics a lot of car mechanics don't know that and they should?
That is stupid that's a stupid way to assume that unless you can somehow test your electronics in your car how would you really know what battery to get for that car?
That's why you should never let an auto parts store or mechanic shop install a new battery. The batteries are sitting on their shelves. Although new they're losing voltage. I've bought batteries at Walmart the Everstart Value ($50) for my 2001 Subaru Outback and an Everstart Maxx ($90) for both of my 2008 Subaru Forester's. I put all three on a charger and they needed to be topped off anywhere from three to five hours. All three batteries are reaching close to five years and even at -11 degrees fahrenheit they have started my cars on the first try.
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