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Same here. Rather than paying hundreds of dollars for a mass production rod I'd rather have a custom built rod with an actual person standing behind the work...if I had hundreds of dollars to spend on a rod that is! That would be grounds for divorce in my house.
Me too... its not strictly a matter of economics, while that's definitely a consideration, but mainly I've seen too many $200+ rods break for no apparent reason. Would only consider paying more for a custom built rod where I know the guy who made it.
Pull the spool off the reel. With the reel on the rod line up the main shaft of the reel along the straight edge of a table or counter. The first guide (stripping guide) should line up with the edge of the table. The rod should cross over the table edge near the choke point (the first of the small guides that run all the way to the tip of the rod). That will give you best casting performance.
Great overview concise and comprehensive. I consider myself as an avid offshore sports fisherman for many years and learned quite a bit from this video. Thx.
Hi chaps, just like to add that rods which are intended to be used with multiplier reels, typically have smaller rings than those intended for fixed-spool reels, the first ring (from the reel end) will also tend to be stood off from the rod by a lesser amount (the ring will be closer to the blank) and this is to give the multiplier reel a nice straight route from where the line leaves the reel, all the way through the rod. In the same vein, a fixed spool reel type of rod, tends to have a larger first ring (again, looking from the reel end) and be stood off from the rod blank, the thinking being that the reel discharges the line from a fixed spool reel, in a rather messy way (in comparison) as the front face of the spool is a large cylindrical affair and is a lot further from the rod, than the point of line discharge of a multiplier reel. Sorry, I don't mean to sound pedantic but I'm sure there are people out there who aren't aware of this fact. I apologise for my rather verbose explanation, I'm sure my British English with have many of you scratching your heads! Really enjoy your approach with the chanel and subscribed. :)
Just when I thought I had it figured out I learn about a smaller guide! Wouldn’t the “control” of the smaller guide restrict the line and therefore not allow say distance? I guess less fluctuations due to the control allows line be more manageable and the energy to carry the line is focused. Great tips as always👍
I'm no expert at all but I would think that there would have to be some balance there, on both the size and location of the guide. There has to be too close and too small.
Balance is key. Ask any bass fisherman... the folks who truly have a different rod for every situation and they will tell you the REAL truth. Two identical rods given the same grade of guides... the only difference being one rod has STANDARD(normal) sized guides and the other having MICRO or SEMI-MICRO guides... THE ROD WITH THE STANDARD GUIDES WILL CASTS WAAAAAAAY FURTHER! How do I know I have a few rods setup this way. The rods with micro guides only shine in sensitivity and accuracy.
Good info that I think most fisherman just don't know, unless someone has taught them these things. Thank you for teaching some basic things that everyone really needs to know.
Aren’t the rods with he guides closer to the rod usually reserved for conventional reels and the ones further from the rod,and the ones with the larger holes used for spinning reels to get that alignment you were indicating?
Thanks for your question! Make sure to ask this over on the actual blog or in the Community where the coaches spend their time. The blog can be found here: bit.ly/35g121u
Tony lovesick lake home cottage Canada , looking for a walleye spinning rod. Using Hurricane CAJ 458 and just love it . Tried to buy another one but all out of stock Mid/heavy works all around due huge muskey always on the bight when fishing bass and walleye
I’d like to see what your opinion is on spinning rods with the microwave guides. I love these rods that were handmade locally by one person who sold them out of his home. Got to see his operation and the products have been very good. I switched to these type of rods with these guides. After 3 years of owning a couple, I now own 10. Can’t go back to the old guides because I feel the line rubbing through the guides. Opinion on microwave guides please.
My question is When I go out fishing I've noticed and heard a lot of the anglers fishing rods make a Whipping sound when casting. Is that because their road is a light gear P1. Or Is it got something to do with how sensitive the road is and how long it is? thank you 😊
Well I have a Berkley medium-heavy 8-foot rod with a Quantum Optix 60 reel with Berkley trilene 60lb mono line and with a 5-ounce sinker and a chunk of cut bait I can cast all of the full spool of line off my reel in one cast...bet that!
Hey dude. Although I'm not a newbie in fishing but I'm used to using 11ft I'm looking for a smaller rod and reel what's the best thing you could please help with looking to travel light There is that much on the market it's quite over whelming Cheers Excellent videos mate been watching a few of your videos
Another awesome video Sir Tony. 😎👍 I was always told that the smaller eyes were for spinning rods and the larger eyes were for bait casters. Any truth to that logic ? Or is that just an old Mermaid tale ? Thanks for all you do. Salt Strong rocks !!! So glad to be a new member. 😎👍✌🖖🐟💥🛎
It is the other way around. The stripping guide, (closest to reel) is larger on spinning rods. Line comes off if the spool of a spinning rod wildly. It has to get control of it in a larger diameter coil coming off of the spool. With a baitcaster, it comes out of the reel more controlled in a horizontal plane, closer to the rod blank. So, if you are at the shop, looking for rods, you can spot the spinning rods. Their eyelets will stand away from the rod further, because a spinning rod spool is further away from the rod blank itself. Hope that helps a little.
@Tim Hansen Thank you for the correction, I did get that backwards. What you said is exactly what I was told growing up, but no one explained why until now. Makes perfect sense, thank you for the explanation brother, that is very helpful. Tight lines my friend, peace. 😎👍🐟💥🛎
Great information. I've been studying rod building and I know it's important to find the spine before setting the reel seat and guides, but is there any way to tell if the seat and guides have been properly placed in relation to the spine on a store bought rod?
Same way you would find the spine on a blank: load it and turn. When you see how even higher tier/priced rods are not always built along the spine, it encourages you to build your own.
Great video! I have a question. I was gifted a 6000 Shimano Saragosa. I need a rod that can cast far to reach bull reds in a calm lake but I'd also like to use it at the surf for lures. What would you recommend? I was thinking maybe a 10 MMF St. Croix.
My friend, they just gave me a rod for the sea from 10 feet to 65 pounds, the brand is Marathon Fortress 2 - 8000, 4.1.1, those here in Cuba we did not know them, please, what can you tell me about this team.
Learn how to replace broken guides! Before I started wrapping my own rods from blanks, I learned how to strip and re-tie the guides. Then you hit garage sales! A G-Loomis with a cracked guide for $10! Once you start placing the guides and wrapping your own eyes, it is tough to use store-bought rods.
Check out the full blog on our website and post your question there. That way, Tony can respond back directly with his input. You can find that here: bit.ly/35g121u
i got a new 5'6" light graphite multy modulus rod from berkly but when looking down the barrel i see it is curving a bit to the left ,is this sometimes normal or a defect? and would it offset my cast accuracy? is it worth the hassle of trying to get another one specially when the store i got it from does not have more than one of each rods on display?
@@pissywilly well i did get another and it appears to be more straight but its not exactly a stiff piece of glass from butt to tip and there is still a slight bend now towards the bottom ,kinda like a slight curve that is happening from the rods own weight,,that is how wobbly these graphite are i suppose but i went to so many stores just to find the right pieces,,if its not one thing its something else and i am very fussy about my stuff being perfect even down to the stenciling ,its like there is no more quality control or consistency in craftsmanship with these mass produced products but hell even the expensive or custom built ones are not perfect either,it was a pain in the ass and money spent going around just to find something i am more happy with then when i started but i will still keep looking ,,another thing that made no sense to me in what this guy said about how the line coming off the spool needs to go straight through the center of the first guide ,well the whole point of these guides is to support your line otherwise how will you feel any bites or even be able to cast unless the line is hugging the inserts? later on he talked about how it is necessary for that first guide to choke the line coming off the spool ??so he is contradicting himself or i have some misunderstanding in what he said
Justin Woodham I’m not a fan of the full metal guides. I had a rod with them a while back and the guides got a bit of corrosion on them, which led to the line fraying and breaking.
@@tonyacevedo3149 Thanks I got a couple old Garcia Mitchell reels that I am gonna have reworked an pretty much overhauled an was just thinking about pairing them with some of the bass pro offshore angler rods with the metal eyes just cause I am not planning on using them on the kayak just mainly for pompano fishing on the pier an cobia fishing an so they wouldn't be exposed to too much saltwater
made no sense to me in what you said about how the line coming off the spool needs to go straight through the center of the first guide ,well the whole point of these guides is to support your line otherwise how will you feel any bites or even be able to cast unless the line is hugging the inserts? later on you talked about how it is necessary for that first guide to choke the line coming off the spool ??so are you not contradicting yourself or did i misunderstood something? is it possible you are wrong about the line going straight through the first guide being something necessary or crucial or maybe you are talking about salt water rods instead of freshwater?
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