Sonya your style of dress is on another level, I love that the fact that your attire is bespoke says a lot about who you are, because when you are out in public u don’t see anyone with the same attire as yours , U ARE A TRENDSETTER DAM THATS WHAT I,M TALKING ABOUT 👍👍👍👞
That last point is a good one. Up until that point in the video I was pondering whether my first waistcoat should be navy or brown, but grey would go with literally everything in my closet.
I can't believe I never thought of using a waistcoat to hide shirts that are a little larger or smaller. I have SO many dress shirts that I love that either are too large from losing weight, or simply out of style. This gave me hope and I'm so exciting to wear those shirts again now. You're a genius! 😂
This is why I wear a waistcoat. When elegantly wearing a suit. My shirt sticks out like a muffin top and I have to tuck the shirt again. Now because of my lean skinny physique this happens. When I wear a waistcoat, the coat does two things: covers the muffin top and builds some body mass to my physique. This is why I wear a waistcoat.
I hadn't thought of using a waistcoat to manage my dress shirts after losing a lot of weight. I thought I'd have to spend $hundreds on new shirts. Thanks for the great tip.
Another great advise and vid Sonya and you look very elegant especially with the neck scarf. I've 4 waistcoat tweed,houndstooth etc and loved wearing them with jeans,trousers and chinos. They are such a versatile clothing. I prefer lapels with mine because it gives the impression of a jacket without sleeves and you've actually brought the waistcoats rather than taken it from your suit.
Excellent point about the lapels giving a "suit coat or jacket impression". I should have mentioned the potential for casual combos as well (I imagine we think a lot alike). Thank you for your reply. ~Sonya
Hello Hugo and Sonya! Thanks to you guys I just bought my first double breasted suit, I'm very excited to wear it. Thanks for all the sartorial wisdom and inspiration!
Congratulations on your DB suit! Please feel at ease share your thoughts on the subject, in the comments section anytime, as we adore the "forum flavor" ! ~Sonya
One point you omitted, Sonya. The waistcoat when worn with morning coat or dinner jacket is the only item of modern formal men’s clothing that can safely be flamboyant - similar to those wonderful hand embroidered examples worn by Dandies in the eighteenth century. One of the great pleasures of Royal Ascot is seeing the gorgeous silk waistcoats accompanying black tailcoats, some of which look as if they have been handed down from father to son. There are some fabulous (and very fairly priced) examples in gold, blue, pink and so on, sold by Favourbrook in London’s Jermyn Street area, which can become heirlooms if looked after.
This session just made me chuckle... how many times I have been saved by a waistcoat! Being raised by grandparents who viewed a shirt as almost underclothing, I almost feel naked without a waistcoat, so they are an essential item in my wardrobe. It is with this in mind, I must admit, I have long admired (the closest thing to actually coveting something) both of your waistcoats. Indeed, invariably it is the first thing my eyes are drawn towards. So, thank you for your advice Sonya, very much appreciated.
I have adopted your philosophy on the subject, and have acquired several more waistcoats recently...When we recorded an episode a few days ago and I forgot my waistcoat, it was surprising how much I missed the extra layer, the extra comfort, the extra flair. Fascinating that you have been raised by Grandparents who retained the view of the shirt as "underwear". Thank you for the support and for your reply. ~Sonya
That's absolutely correct. Now waistcoat always be My essential element when I wear My suit, and I do really appreciate its benefits. It's also gave Me a great body silhouette and compliments from the people around Me....
Excellent timing, I have been considering a “vest” under my jacket. Hoping it may be another layer adding warmth with the chill of winter arriving now. I’m thinking double breasted, larger arm holes, 2X6 buttons, no lapels, in gray and or light tan. As I wear a lot of brown, blue and black. Blessings to Hugo and yourself, Sonya “Cheers”
Great, knowing which details you prefer for your waistcoat is going to move things along quickly--so you will enjoy the experience much sooner. Drop a note here if you remember to let everyone know your thoughts after you purchase/commission. Cheers! ~Sonya
another excellent guide for all the sartorialist inclined, very informative and entertaining, greetings from peru. Also need to add up that since the temperature here varies during the day, my routine is such as I start the chilly morning with both waistcoat and jacket, at noon I only use waistcoat and at evening at use both again. While elegant, and tasteful, a waistcoat is also useful, you are never too warm or too cold.
Fantastic tips on waistcoats. I never knew there was so much to know about them. I am a woman who loves masculine styles..I will be puRchasing a few for myself!
Brilliant ! I believe you will find the waistcoat to be gratifying in terms of complementing the female form, and making you feel at ease. Cheers to you! ~Sonya Glyn
Please do a video on men’s shirts. Long sleeve, short sleeve, various collars and their styles and applications, cuff styles and cuff buttons ( my custom shirts NEVER have two buttons on a cuff) and when to use French cuffs with what type of collars. Thanks in advance!
Nice video Sonya! I wear a lot of waistcoats, to stand out a little bit from the jacket wearing crowd. Also the price is mild for vests because you can avoid the difficult shoulder part of a nice jacket. And to stay in the shoulder realm, vests allow for showing off some nicely pleated shirt shoulders! Ode to vests!
Waistcoats are something I've always admired as a style statement but I'd never considered all the ways a waistcoat can save other parts of your wardrobe! I am going to struggle to get shirts to fit me unless I get them made for me because I'm a lady with very big arms now I'm boxing regularly. Getting a few waistcoats will mean I can get some shirts that fit my arms and not necessarily my torso, and always look dapper and stylish without necessarily breaking my bank account! I also get hot in the office and usually have to take off my suit jacket, so a proper same-fabric waistcoat will keep me looking dressy even without the jacket, and save me from being uncomfortable (I'm also looking into better quality fabrics as a way to help with this, because I have a suspicion it's the polyester in my current only jacket that's contributing!)
I most agree on the point about getting waistcoats with my suits. So now whenever I get a new single breasted suit I always get a waistcoat because I could use the waistcoat separate from the suit and I love that. As always a brilliant video and I so love your topics. Best wishes for the new year Oscar
I have the same practice now---and so many more outfits with less investment. Nice to hear that you are seeing the same result. Thank you for your reply! ~Sonya
As a police liutenant I always carry a hand gun. The waistcoat allows me to carry without thinking about my gun printing to other people. So beeing armed and well dressed are possible. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Greetings from Germany
I like the feeling of waistcoat on my torso because it adds a feeling of security and hugs my body while keeping the hands free. Plus, I really love the look of it. I've tried to put on some off the rack, but I could never find one that would fit me. In the front upper chest area, near the shoulder front the vests I've tried always stood off. I guess I gotta go bespoke.
🤔 I’m amazed at how much information you covered with the Waist Coat Vest in the time allotted. I’ve never considered a person can have that many variety of outfits with 1 Suit and 3 Vests, let alone having more of both in variety. I just never thought about it that way. I think the on,y thing in clear understanding not covered maybe in clarity is the act of wearing a versatility of colored Vests with with a suit, outfit, trousers. Exactly what’s the rule on that.
Please episode on knitwear and cardigans . And how to incorporate them in the sartorial wardrobe.. thanks a lot for you changing the way how my eyes see
Hello Sonja, Hugo! Beside of having stains on your wringled shirt, that became to tight and hiding your trousers that became to loose ( is this possible at all, at the same time??) of course you may wear waistcoats just simply as a separate layer during the colder seasons that keeps you warm specialy if they are made of tweed. And by the way, it looks much more stylish wearing a vest than knittwear under the jacket. But dont forget to take of the "to short tie" (you dont want to let go?!?) first. Because without the vest you will look like a clown for sure with your little tie, to wide waistband and suspenders. Thank you, Sonja for your amusing contribution!
My Dear Sonya, regardless the excellent ideas and information you give us about the the Waistcoat , i enjoyed your way of presentation and the way you look with your Elegant scarf around your neck ))), Happy new year to you and Hugo, Love to you as always from Cairo,
Hello, Hugo is a huge fan of collar stays---I would like to try them as well, yet women aren't given the option usually. You now have inspired me to correct that point. Thank you and I will make sure Hugo sees your request. This scenario is why I like the comment section on RU-vid so much...because things come to light which may have remained silent otherwise. Thanks. ~Sonya
Hi Sonya, about a year ago I got my first 2 waist coats , one of the rack in a medium grey and a made to measure in a burgundy with peak lapels. Both from were from Men's Warehouse. I learned 2 things from your video that stood out to me. Fist the length should cover the pant belt line. I am going to have to check mine! Next was the vey light Buff colored one. Once you showed it, I was surprised how stylish it looked. I will get one of those. I want to say how much I have enjoyed all of your videos, keep them coming! Finally, I am looking forward to the Shoe book, I signed on for the pre order. It will find a place next to the first 2 books!
Hello Mr. Jamescord, Thank you for being a supporter of our work. If you check on your waistcoat length and find the length lacking, perhaps the MTM vest has an inch or two of extra fabric allowance in order for the length to be extended. Feel free to chronicle your findings here so others may benefit. Happy 2020 ! ~Sonya
Love, Love, Love this video!!! And very timely. I’ve been considering adding waistcoats to my wardrobe and very happy with all the information! Great video as always and very happy to be supporting your channel.
All the best in the new year of 2020. I hoppe this channel will grow and reach the succes it deserves. One question, will Greg maybe host an episode of Sartorial talks in the future?
Hi K, Nice to hear from you again. As you know if you have read PG, Greg is an expert on fragrances and very well could do an episode on the topic, if only he would agree! Glad you asked. ~Sonya
Dear Alexandros I have a bespoke tattersall vest from A.Caraceni in Milano and I love it. So specific and so versatile at the same time. Best regards, Sonya
Awesome video, as I am a huge fan of waistcoat's with my suits. I couldn't help but laugh at 10:10 on this video the two waistcoat's you show I just purchased from a store in London and had them shipped to Canada were I live. Thank you Sonya, look forward to the next installment.
Can you please give some more details on the store you pyrchased them from please.Also can someone spell the two staples(are they dove grey and bove(?) or sand)
@@sokratischrysomallos3246 I purchased the vest's through Dobell formal wear London. I purchased both the Dove grey & Buff gold. Both are the double breasted shawl lapel.
I would disagree with the statement that if you gained weight, a waistcoat will pull in your silhouette. I find it quite the opposite. Most men gain girth at the midsection so a properly fitted waistcoat will only highlight your rotundness. I do agree about the length reaching over the trouser. However, being one with a long torso, I find my waistcoat seem oddly disproportionate. To add to the pain, many trousers now go for the low-waist style which add to the length of the waistcoat further exacerbating my problem. All that said, I still love my waistcoats.
Have recommendations already been made on where to shop for waistcoats? In the USA, whenever I look around, I'm seeing only cheap ones that you'd find at places like Macy's.
Dear Sonya, I seek your advice, your help. My tailor insisted that my vest be the short kind, one that just touches your belt line. I learnt from this sartorial talk video that it should be longer. There are four vests already stitched and delivered with considerable investment, could I wear them or would it be a major faux pas and it is better to give them away. Please do share your comment.
Hi Asif, Sometimes double-breasted waistcoats are crafted shorter to make them more formal. Is this the case for you? Single-breasted waistcoats are less formal and can cover the belt area to preserve the body line, for a nicer silhouette. Also, if you don't like the length, most any bespoke tailor will put in an allowance of fabric to lengthen the waistcoat later, if needed. Cheers! Sonya
I can listen to her all day and learn more. .. Can you pls. tell me is it ok to put pocket Square on my double breasted peak lapel waist coat...i usually wear odd vest without coat?
how come if i sit down , the fabric of my waistcoat around the chest area comes up.very annoying and not elegant. maybe my waistcoat is a bit too large on the top .i do not know. for the rest its fits very well.
Having a silk back waistcoat makes it more comfortable when wearing a jacket with it. Plus the jacket falls smoother without wrinkles. Would like to ask for bulky tall men, what is more suitable. A single 5 button or a double 6 button?
Thank you Sonja. Under what circumstances would you do up the lowest button on your waistcoat. I seem to remember you saying there were exceptions to the last button undone rule. By the way great content as usual. Do you ever do live events in London?
Hi, I agree with LTH below, that 'all buttoned up' seems to signify an air of formality -- but really this is just a guess on my part. I think you should do whatever you want, i.e, express yourself how ever you like, using your intuition. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS that's indeed a great serendipity. Like I said to your spouse, Mr Jacomet, I thank you for all the hard work to help us, beginners or more experienced people, to dress well. Cheers, Alexander
happy new year to sonya & hugo thanks for 2019 now lets go to the next level in 2020. THis is a much needed topic & glad it was addressed. Can you do a video on what goes with a brown suit ie ties, shirts pocket square combos. thanks
It is rare to wear a square with a waistcoat/vest, but you should feel free to create your own rules after you perceive yourself to be (to some degree) well-studied on the the subject of style. ~Sonya
A very Happy New Year! Very interesting point about the sand waistcoat, it definitely is an elegant choice! I wanted to know if I wear high waisted trousers would it work out if I wore shorter and slightly tighter waistcoats, to get the more British waistcoat silhouette from the 20's.
I think your idea sounds brilliant if your silhouette can handle the effect of "lengthening the legs". The shorter waistcoat yields a "specific look" which some carry off very well---Two days ago, I recorded a talk on "proportions' for future release which I hope you are able to watch, which addresses your question further. ~Sonya
i love the real world reasons Sonya listed (loss/gaining weight, stains on your fave/nice shirts (me!) so I will definitely look into vests ('Murica!)! Thanks Sonya!
Sonya, Hugo, ST team. I came across to your content a week ago and I think I’ve already watched 90% of your videos. I absolutely love it. Well done! I have a question and I do hope you guys read this. To make very short, I work in the office, I’d love to wear suits and ties, but is not required... and if you do... it’ll be the reason for ‘jokes’, which honestly I don’t care but when it comes to workplaces, it can cost your job... The responsible for the department often (daily) has no clue at all, matching crazy colour socks with... omg better stop here! People often comment (good comments) on how I dress outside of work, but I feel that I can’t be myself, wearing what I want to wear, because comparing to his taste, I WILL stand out of the crown... (even if I go basic). 10 years ago, the fact I used to dress very well caused me serious issues! Isn’t crazy, because jealousy.... So that’s my question/proposal for a discussion, what to do? I can’t no longer be dressing basic (blue, white....) because of someone who doesn’t care about style but I can’t be on the spotlight because I’m not the leader of the team... it’s such a dilemma! I hope you guys can read this and thanks a lot for your time!
Dear Diego, We made a preliminary try at a podcast and hope to continue...(search Sartorial Talks podcast), addressing some of your pertinent points here. I hope you check it out and its nice to hear a personal story. Thank you! ~Sonya Glyn
SARTORIAL TALKS Thank you so much for taking the time to address my comment, I really appreciated it. The podcasts were incredibly interesting, I hope you guys keep the channel active there. I’d like to comment on the final advise, which was “dressing out on the weekends”. Since my traumatic experience at work for dressing well (10 years ago, costing my job), I unconsciously created a habit of dressing down, to a point where I stopped wearing watches because I’d not like to be seen as an attention seeker, things really went bad for me as I was not LIVING, but (barely) surviving. I remember one day I went to work with a nice black leather shoes (loafers) with no socks on (nobody had the same style in the office) - I spent all day on my desk hiding it... I only got up (when really necessary) when I wasn’t seen. Looking back, I think how stupid I was! For 3 reasons I’m not a huge fan of “dressing up on weekends”. 1. I have been there (for years) and I quite still doing that (less, but certainly holding myself to not dress better than “the manager”), and I must say I didn’t like what I saw, at all. 2. For most people (including me), it isn’t every weekend that something very exciting happens, sometimes housework, study at home, basic weekly shopping etc... therefore, it’s challenging to put your (stylish) wardrobe out there only on the weekends. For me, dressing UP is life, how then to only LIVE on Saturdays and Sundays? 3. Why not to imagine that the art of dressing UP can elevate your spirit, show your true self and therefore force yourself to face who you really are. If you feel like you want to wear a pocket square, why not? People will comment, but the clock is ticking, who knows what will happen to you in 5min. If it causes you problem, well, prepare yourself to change the job, area, to change LIFE!! Isn’t it liberating? How the simple fact of dressing better can absolutely impact and change the curse of your life? When I watch you guys I always think to myself: “how “free” and powerful they look”, just based on simple assumption that you (and Hugo) wake up and simply put on what suits your imagination... with no one to please or give explanation to, it should be priceless! Again, thank so much for your time and this is only my opinion after having privilege of listening you guys on my way to work. Have a nice day.
Is it frowned upon to wear different vests that didn’t come with your suit? For example if I had a two piece suit and wanted to put on a waistcoat, would that be wrong or looked upon as tacky? Same with combinations? Great video as always, you really learn a lot with them!
Dear Nardo, I mix odd vests/waistcoats with different suits on a regular basis. Please feel free to do the same and use your own eye and interpretation...with a little time you will instantly know which combinations work and which do not. A full length mirror is a good idea to use to make your final yes or no assessment. Cheers! ~Sonya
I plan to get a 3pc suit with a double breasted waistcoat, would you recommend a shawl lapel on my waist coat if the pattern of my fabric is chalk stripes? Thanks for the video! Just what I needed. 😁
A shawl lapel can be charming, even if I've only bought/commission the style with solid colors (you can mix an odd waistcoat with a chalk stripe, of course). However,- use your own eye to decide, and try to match the waistcoat with your personality. Cheers ! ~Sonya Glyn
Hi Osman, I wish I could help. I know a Turkish tailor, but he lives in Washington D.C. ! Let us know if you discover a great tailor in your country. Cheers! ~Sonya
Hello, I’d like to know must the waistcoat be accounted for during the measurement of a jacket especially if I want to commission a 2 pc suit and not a 3 since I already have one waistcoat? Thanks!
Dear Sonya and Hugo, first of all thank you very much for all the great videos you are sharing with us. I'm a big fan of waistcoats and I agree with all the reasons explained in this videos and I would like to know your opinion about the last lower button. I know that nowadays let it unbuttoned is a "must" but I feel very uncomfortable in that way. Do you think that a single breast waistcoat with the lower button buttoned is wrong? Would be great to hear your thoughts about it. Thank you in advance and cheers from an italian man in Japan :)
Hi BB, Your question is the most asked question here, so far. Hugo and I agree that there is no hard and fast rule regarding leaving the final-button unbuttoned on the waistcoat (you may know the story of the portly king who unbuttoned the lower button on his suit coat so he could breathe better---and everyone else just copied him, until this day...). People make up these rules, some times for good reasons and some times for no reason at all. So do what pleases you...the 'final button decision' is a pretty mild sartorial issue, after all ! Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you very much for your reply! I really hoped to hear that, is very coherent with all the wise words you two share with us. Love from Japan ^__^
This video is genius! Now I know what to do with those "mistake" shirts... btw, you show a pic of Cifonelli at 10:07 wearing a shiny fabric suit with matte vest. I have never seen this pulled off in the wild.
You noticed Lorenzo Cifonelli can do some unorthodox moves and still make them work. I suppose he has the knack and experience and courage to pull off a few sartorial feats. Cheers! ~Sonya
We are experimenting with mock neck sweaters with suits and adore them (no experience with v-necks). Check out Hugo's instagram @parisian_gentleman and mine @sonyaglyn for some examples of different looks. Thank you for the question! Sonya
All the best for 2020, Sonya and Hugo!!! Love the video. Are there any rules regarding how many buttons to button on a waistcoat? I have noticed many people leave the bottom one undone. Looking forward to a video on pocket squares. Cheers from Honduras!
Hello Honduras! Cheers from either Atlanta or Bourgogne, depending on the day! I usually leave the bottom button (and sometimes the top button) unbuttoned...but no one should complain if you alter the formula. Just use your own eyes, preferences, and intuition. Cheers! ~Sonya
I do feel compelled to shed a tear at times because of this unfortunate departure from the Parisian landscape...yet should have a peek at some of the Arny's archives on waistcoats...~Sonya
wish this vid came out last year :( had a waistcoat made last year cos i love how they look. At first when i had the first fitting it looked too short for my liking because i knew i was going to wear it more "casually" per se and wanted it a little longer than convention. But recently i found that having the longer waistcoat made my proportions slightly off so now i'm hesitant to wear it and feel like its such a waste cos i do love the look of a waistcoat but as we all know fit is the most important, and this one i have slight regrets on...
Is this belt thing strict? I usually wear a belt with a vest and I still think it is ok, especially because its not seen. I need even more experience? :)
Hi Maxim, If the belt is hidden and doesn't disrupt your silhouette with bumps or bulges, then why not wear it if it makes you feel better in your clothes. Cheers! ~Sonya
Share thoughts on if a Double breasted waist coat should be worn with a single breasted suit or Double breasted suit and vice versa. Thanks nice into video
Hello. I wear both double breasted and single breasted waistcoats with a "single breasted" suit coat or jacket. I have never worn any sort of waistcoat/vest under a double breasted suit, although I've seen it done...I just don't understand the point, since the waistcoat (practically) disappears under the suit coat---if I were forced to wear a vest under a DB, I would choose a SB to avoid bulkiness. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS I sometimes wear a DB waistcoat under a DB jacket. Yes it does disappear, but in the office I use to take off the DB jacket and sit at my desk with just the DB waistcoat on. So for me it makes sense to combine these two, as I prefer both my jackets and my waistcoats in DB style.
I personally wouldn't wear a DB waistcoat under a DB jacket, unless i'd find myself in a situation Marc describes, where I'd take the jacket off. Usually DB waistcoats are lower cut, and won't be seen, as Sonya said. But I did manage to find a SB waistcoat that's cut way higher than usual, that way you still get to show some of the waistcoat. Though I do think it's a rather formal look, so I doubt this would work with more casual outfits/colours.
Thank you, Sonya and Hugo for another very informative broadcast! I‘m pretty new to this channel and suck in the enormous amount of information like a sponge....thanks for sharing! I am very impressed of your humble, nice and elegant way to describe the sartorial world and all aspects of being ´gentlemanishˋ without any taste of being snobbish..... it‘s like you created league of your own! Congratulations to you, you lovely couple! All the best for you and all the followers of this channel, happy new year to you all! Warm regards from Dresden/Germany, Daniel
I am humbled by heartfelt responses such as yours and I have gratitude for the time you took to write such a careful and kind note, which does make a difference. Thank you! ~Sonya
nice video! I don't like to get offtopic too much but i've got a question that is completely different than the videos topic: I have been doing some research in the last couple of weeks to find a good bespoke tailor in the area of Frankfurt am Main in Germany. Unfortunately i haven't been able to find anyone. Is there anyone you or the community can recommend? :)
In Germany, one or our top recommendations is Detlev Diehm (Munich/Bavaria) instagram.com/diehmbespoke/?hl=de. Recently, Detlev was part of our best tailors in the world Master Tailors Dinner, comprising around 20+ tailors. For you, the visit require a four hour drive, but if you do try Detlev, I hope you will contact me or Hugo here or on instagram @sonyaglyn , and let us know about your experience. Thank you for asking and cheers! ~Sonya Glyn
The only thing I can't agree with is not wearing a west with a belt. How then are you going to wear a west with jeans, for example (also a viable option)? I never had the belt showing from under my west or sticking out. I can't imagine what a giant buckle you must have on your belt for it to do that. Besides, suspenders are also not always an option (for jeans, as mentioned before, or sometimes simply you don't want to wear suspenders even with trousers, coz they can be a bit restrictive)
Hi! If you are able to wear a belt with a vest and preserve your silhouette, and you feel comfortable, it makes sense. My perception is that most people can't wear a belt with a vest as well as you are able to do it. Cheers and Happy 2020! ~Sonya Glyn
Hello, can I ask a question about the look of the jacket and vest with db lapel when buttoned up. If it doesn’t close up nicely and show the shirt, it is fail piece?
Hello VY, A vest can have numerous designs and coverage levels---back when shirts were considered underwear, waistcoats/vests buttoned near the neck! As long as nothing looks like the fit is wrong, I would say go with your personal preference in terms of appearance. I hope I addressed your question. Cheers! ~Sonya Glyn
SARTORIAL TALKS thanks for your response. I want it close nicely, even my db suit only close up nicely ( doesnt show inside from the side) when i stand straight and hold my hands together in front. Can I expect for a nice close up db suit jacket or vest? Or it will always show the hole when you look from the side?
I love my waistcoat collection and today I wear my black calvin klein suit and calvin klein white dress shirt paired with grey pattern brook Tarvener waistcoat and a silk blue tie with black Derby Dress shoes and top it of with my black Bowler and the pocket square is red silk
Thank you very much for this great tutorial. Recently I needed to dress very formally and had planned a tuxedo. The evening turned out to be outrageously hot and even hotter in the old un-insulated theatre to which I was going. At the last minute I ditched the tux in favor of cream linen /wool single pleat trousers, a white shirt and a black waistcoat. I received a lot of compliments but it was the waistcoat that saved me. Cheers :)