Thank you both! I'm so pleased that a lot of people from the US watch, and also it's really helpful to have comments from all over the world as it reminds me that what works in one place may not work in another (or it may work too well and get out of control).
I picked up a sedum from a lady on Freecycle last year but annoyingly managed to snap most of the stems in transit bringing it back to mine. I chucked it in my awkward shady corner and forgot about it. I almost recoiled when I was clearing that corner out in the spring and saw how huge it had become! It’s now doing its glorious autumnal thing, and granted the one in front (full sunlight) has far surpassed it but let it be known it’s also very happy in the shade!
I too had a "forgotten" Sedum spectabile 'Herbstfreude' put somewhere in almost total (dry) shade, and I couldn't find it again so thought it had died, only to find it again many years later! Not doing very well, but alive! And as soon as I took it out and put it in a more sunny spot, it got quite big and beautiful again within a year.
I have a bunch of dry shade under a conifer and weeping willow and I planted some divided hostas there before I "knew better". Well it was beginner's luck because they are so happy and remain untouched by slugs (whom I assume are avoiding the dry). I also have lupins, cyclamen, hardy geranium, japanese tassel fern, heuchera, bleeding heart, Spanish bluebells, and autumn crocus all growing in this area.
Terrific, once again. Just want to add something I didn't hear you explicit say about why established trees and shrubs made shade dry as it took me an embarrassing number of years to get this: The large established trees and shrubs drink up most of the water before the smaller plants can get much. Even now it sounds so obvious to me, but it wasn't for years.
In zone 5 Michigan, epimedium are my favorite plant for dry shade. Make sure to water on a regular bases the first year. Hellebore are also a good choice.
I garden in US zone 4b, and have an Aruncus Dioicus (goat's beard) that continues to look great after 30 years of neglect. It's a 3 foot tall dwarf variety, planted in front of a rock wall surrounded by tall evergreens. The astilbe-like foliage and creamy white plumes brighten up that part of the garden.
Oh, goat's beard, and a dwarf variety, yes! Have to keep this in mind. Also, sounds like, though they look like astilbe, they don't need to serious amount of water astilbe really does require.
I'm embarrassed to say that during our unusually hot and dry summer (atypical for Minnesota), I never watered that border. There are bergenia, hosta and pulminaria In the same border, and all are thriving despite being untended.
I' m doing a kind of volunteer gardening in my neighborhood. I tried to underplant trees to encourage bees, insects and little birds. What I need to mention. Vinca minor ( there are purple, white, burgundy coloured and eventueel varigated varieties ...they do quite well in dry shady conditions. I ve seen that violets love to grow in shady areas. But when its too dry ..they suffer. Senecio maritimum lights up dark spots with his silver foliage ...its a shadow drought tolerant plant. They do well under the trees in my neighborhood. Adding some compost and mulching helps to avoid terrible drought. Goed luck. Thank you Alexandra for your outstanding work. Kind regards, Marcus
What I wanted to add ... I ve planted in every shady dark spot white lillies and gladiolus. Their bulbs wont rot in dry shade and they flowered very well .
Vinca is invasive where I live (US mid-Atlantic region). It's good in an area that can keep it contained, like an area that is completely surrounded by concrete.
Thank you so much, Alexandra. You gave me ample of ideas for my shady border. Just wanted to add that perhaps some grasses would be happy in these conditions. My hakonechloa seems to be fine and adds a bit of sunshine to the dark corner. You are absolutely right that gardening is all about the experience by trowel and error. Why not to try something else. After all the labels truly can be very misleading.
Hello Alexandra, Thank you for another beautiful, helpful video - I look forward to them from ‘across the pond’ in Maine each week. I so enjoy also looking at your pictures of your garden and may I suggest that you leave those images up a few seconds longer? It’s always so interesting to let the details of the image be noticed and soak in, or to observe in the photo what you go on to say about the plant. So look forward to your uploads each week! Thank you.
Always look forward to your very helpful videos. This is perfect topic for the space between two large crape Myrtle trees and one Medium sized Japanese maple. Thank you
@@TheMiddlesizedGarden Yes, I couldn't do it! I'm in one of the rainiest states, and we average around 26", so I had a chuckle at what you considered a dry climate 😁
Exactly what I needed as I plan for my planting next year. I have a fair amount of dry shade in US heat zone 7b. I need a variety of plants in my very small city garden that I share with 3 large dogs. I love this channel. I have learned so much from you! Edit: some of the plants reviewed are highly toxic to dogs & cats. Check the ASPCA web site (US) before you plant anything you don't know for sure is nontoxic if you have pets that might chew on plants.
This is definitely a challenging place to garden but epimediums I find do well for me and dont show any wear and tear through the summer heat. I’m in US zone 7b and love your videos.
Thank you once again Alexandra for another well informed video. I've put white geraniums almost in the dark in my garden and red ones in full sun and both have done equally well. You are right about not relying on the label, use it as a vague guide. I have some large pots handy and have had to rescue one or two plants not suited to their area. They are put in the pots to try different locations to find their permanent home. Always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Hi Alexandra, came across this lovely channel called fierceblooms, I really think her videos worth looking at, I have learnt such a lot. Could be the sort of person for an interview perhaps.
I did do one a few years ago, but would like to do another with more detail at some point. But here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sFOGipSXeqk.html
@@TheMiddlesizedGarden thank you, I saw it! I had seen it before of course (since I have seen most of your videos) but it was useful that I saw it again.
Thank you Alexandra! Another very informative video. I love astrantia but mine have struggled. I'm about to move them more into the shade. I like how you present your videos - packing in the information so efficiently 👏👏👏
My astrantia struggled for over a year. It took off in its third season. In part shade with a little afternoon sun. Average moisture. Zone 5b, Massachusetts USA
I have a varigated fatsia (zone usa7b) that is trellised in a large pot on my North facing covered porch that is sheltered on both sides. I bag it each winter before a hard freeze with 2 large clear bags (tied together with one bottom up and the other top down). It is now about 7 feet tall and is a lovely statement against my sage/mint house. I will probably have to prune it next spring.
Thank you. So helpful as usual, particularly for a beginner as myself trying to purposefully plan and create a thought out garden. It's great to have these tips but also to learn from my own and your earlier mistakes such as the rhubarb you mentioned at the beginning. ☺
One plant I have found thrives in the driest of shade is Roast-beef plant (Iris foetidissima). It’s evergreen so never leaves bare soil and although the flowers are far from flashy they produce bright red berries that last all winter. Almost zero maintenance: just removing a few dead leaves once or twice a year.
You just gave me an idea with the pale geraniums and ferns together, so thank you! I'm working on a shady area where the rabbits absolutely mowed down several trial plants ( sweet woodruff, Ladys Mantle and Jack Frost Brunnera). We seem to need Zone 4 plants, even though we are in Zone 6 (Southern Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦). The Ajuga, my most recent trial, seems to be ignored by the rabbits, thank goodness!
I posted this and for some reason it attached itself to another video, so here it is again. I have Brunnera Jack Frost growing in dry shade. It has been particularly dry in my part of Scotland this year but the Brunnera has never looked better. It has silver leaves which lighten up the shade. The silveryness of the leaves varies from plant to plant so don't buy it online. See the plant in the flesh before buying. It clumps up quickly and divides well so one plant can soon become many.
Oh wow, really? I just yesterday made a sort of tiny retaining wall for my Brunnera 'Jack Frost' hoping that will help let water sink in better rather than roll down the incline it's on, and hoping that maybe insufficient water is why these (not inexpensive!) plants have not really taken off. But then I'm in Connecticut, US and our summers are much hotter than yours. This season most days from mid-June through August (and even some now in Sept) have been in the upper 80s f, with plenty over 90 f (32.2 c). So that kind of heat could certainly counteract their ability to take more dryness, plus the myriad of unknown factors! Interesting to read your comment, however.
I have a small bed that has no direct sun at all (shaded by buildings on two sides with a dense, mostly privet, mixed hedge on the South). I'm planning on planting it and found this video helpful, thanks. One thing I noticed is that my shaded bed has a small rogue fuchsia (the 'wild' one with red/blue bells) that has grown under the hedge for several years. It doesn't thrive but the few flowers it makes look fantastic and really bright against the hedge, as does the relatively pale, if sparse, foliage. When I cleared the area I pulled it out but it grew back and I have learnt to treasure it. It will remain when I finally plant the area, having earned my admiration. I wanted to share this as a fuchsia is the last thing I would expect to grow in a dark corner proving that it's worth experimenting.
Great tips! I have a dry border along the road under established trees. It was a dusty weed pit but I’ve found that a thick mulch layer does an amazing job of enriching the soil and conserving moisture. Also one thing I tried this year which seems to work is to use bare root perennials if possible. I planted a couple of sacks of astilbe roots and they have been managing well in the area, I’m guessing because they “woke up” there. I watered regularly after planting and they’ve handled the worst of the summer. I know if they had been potted before planting they would not have been so forgiving. We will see what next year brings. Also about the ivy, I’ve heard that it only flowers once it grows vertical. The previous owners of my home planted some and I’ll never get it out, but it is an amazing ground over so I’ll just make sure it stays that way and doesn’t get too eager.
Thank you. Sarcococca hookeriana humilis, geranium macrorhizum, euphorbias, libertia grandiflora work well for me. I had to move my fatsia japonica to moist shade because is was turning yellow, I also planted Hedera algeriensis Gloire de Marengo (a beautiful variegated big leaf Ivy)as a ground cover to lighten up the space.
I always say that there's a bit of trial and error. There's some mysterious alchemy that means plants work in one place, then not in another, however similar. But I hope it works for you.
Great list Alexandra, thank you! I've had luck with trillium(this is its second season) in my dry shade area. I'm in a zone 6. It's under three large hornbeams in the corner of my north facing garden. Unfortunately, I don't remember the variety, but it blooms late winter/early spring. I think the secret to its flowering success may be the melted snow keeping the ground moist and the increased sunlight from the lack of leaves during that time? During late Spring, Summer and Fall, that area is full shade, the foliage has done pretty well considering it gets rather dry.
I just made the shaded/dappled sun section a wildflower meadow,because its almost pure sand and rocks.More biological functions and less maintaining from me! I planted some daffodils in the more dappled spots and called it a day. Beautiful results 😍
Thank you Alexandra. I would really appreciate it if you could also discuss issues of cutting things back for the winter. I buy a lot of plants that I just don't know what to do with before the winter starts. Do I cut them back or just leave them alone? Thank you again, DA
General rule is to leave them alone and cut back end of winter/early spring. Dead leaves/stems somewhat protect the roots from the cold and often (especially if the garden has been carefully designed) add interest to the winter garden with their dried shapes. (Look up images of Piet Oudolf winter gardens to see what I mean). If you are a very tidy gardener you can cut the plants back before winter and cover them with mulch for protection/aesthetic. Both solutions are valid then it’s up to your style of gardening: more naturalistic and laid back or more controlled and labor intensive.
DA, I've seen video where you should leave stems for the bees. And also leave a little bare soil for them. This is a wonderful suggestion! Yes, please, Alexandra.
I agree with Panse Pot - generally better to leave plants over winter. It varies hugely from plant to plant, but the safest thing is to leave the plant not cut back as that's unlikely to harm it. And will think about doing a video on it, thank you.
Thank you for your wonderfully informative vids. They always brighten up my ironing! A few thoughts. I have heuchera and astrantia growing together which give the bees a treat all summer. Also persicaria amplexicaulis and red dragon are thriving in my Kent garden (but not too much!). And fuchsias and spirea also work once they have settled down. Japanese anemones too, which I had growing too enthusiastically in the sun, but now are more restrained.
I am not a tidy gardener either and this is why I love your channel. You gave me some great ideas for some shady dry spots for blooming plants. I have yet to try hardy geranium and Astrantia is a new one I have not heard here in Texas, but will now be looking for it at my local garden centers.
That was so thorough and informative and really helpful. One of the shade loving ground cover plants I really love is Saxifraga stolonifera. It’s very compact and it produces such pretty white flowers on mass that contrast so well with the leaves which on their own are very beautiful. Mine line a narrow path and I wouldn’t be without it in my garden.
Excellent video! Thank you so much. I am facing a very large area of dry shade under deciduous trees. So far, ostrich ferns and miniature comfrey are doing well, sweet woodruff is so-so but spreading. I've found that the highly bred "fancy leaved" ivies (small leaves, variegated leaves, very "cut" leaves) don't seem nearly as vigorous as the standard English ivy and I can use them successfully wherever I put them without worrying about them overtaking other plants. Thank you again.,
Thank you for another so helpful episode! Always like most of the plants you recommend and show in various of your videos. Where to get hardy cyclamen? Only saw them in shops.
I think that mail order plant companies would have them under 'bulbs.' They're not bulbs, but they sort of seem to come into that category. Look for 'hardy cyclamen' and they should come up.
Ivy is my worst garden nightmare, really invasive as our garden in South East UK was over run with it 3 years ago, strong weed killers and weeding still haven't got rid of the issues I have with the bloody stuff
Thanx for this lovely and very useful episode! The city where I live in the Netherlands started a project to stimulate to adopt the ground space around a tree on the street in front of your house. They prepare the soil and offer you some plants if you participate. So I did this spring! But the Carpinus trees in our street are old and huge and there’s not much soil above the roots to plant any other plant, so I struggled a lot: very dry, very shady and a thin layer of soil. I planted Vinca major var. and minor for ground cover and Geranium Spessart and they are so-so, but all the other plants are suffering.. I have to make new choices, so thanx for this video. Greetings from the Netherlands!
That is a very different sort of gardening, indeed. I used to live in Lima, Peru, which I think is one of the driest places on earth and the garden was flooded once a week rather than actually watered.
Informative as usual. I also like to leave self seeded foxgloves, etc. Lucky that ferns just appear under tress and shrubs but maybe because I live in a forest region. I also have dry area under trees and shrubs because they are south facing and get lots of sun but the rain rolls of leaves leaving a dry patch. So I have planted sempervivum, sedums , alpine plants , periwinkle and grasses .Have you ideas for this condition?
I think it's probably just trial and error, trying out plants for dry areas and seeing which ones flourish. Also if you prune your trees, then maybe aim to have a less dense canopy so a little more rain (and light) will get through. I have a blog post which may help with this, although it depends on how you want your trees to look and the type of tree: www.themiddlesizedgarden.co.uk/how-to-prune-garden-trees-for-privacy-and-light/
@@TheMiddlesizedGarden Thank you for the tip . I have actually pruned trees and shrubs else where in the garden for this purpose and found more growth round the base.Unfortunately a birds nest prevents me doing further thinning. I am currently interested in good quality soil in borders and under lawn would you be able to do an episode on sustainable composting , mulching etc using mainly organic matter in the garden. The ultimate aim is to have a self contained eco system.
Just noticed you choose your edible plants (rhubarb) just based on how their leaves look 😂 I've found rhubarb very difficult to grow well even in moist sun areas, not an easy plant, of course my potatoes are usually rather rubbish too so guess I'm just lacking the veg growers skillset
You mentioned bergenia as a shade plant. I have a ferocious clump of it in a west facing rockery right up against a concrete foundation and driveway. Indestructible! Are your recommendations for dry shade under conifers as well?
I think it's harder when roots are competing - a bit of trial and error will probably be necessary. With any planting under trees, the nearer you are to the outer edge of the leaf canopy, the more likely you are for plants to survive. Nothing much grows directly under my conifers, near the trunk, but ferns, fatsia, ivy and cotoneaster do quite well when planted under the edge of the leaf canopy.
Everyone always says how easy hardy geraniums are. But I am having a hard time getting mine to flourish. They really only get some morning sun and are on slope.
If that's the Fatsia, yes, many people treat them as house plants. House plants in winter need to be near windows for the light, but away from draughts, and only water when the soil feels dry.
with the ferns and hardy geraniums, you'll find one to suit your soil type as there are so many varieties. Astrantia, cyclamen, bergenia, ivy, euphorbia robbiae and aucuba japonica will grow in acid, alkaline or neutral. Foxgloves prefer acidic or neutral and Fatsia japonica isn't too fussed but prefers mildy acidic or neutral. But they all grow in my soil which is neutral/ a little alkaline
Lmfao..i got.about 100.types native and.invasive.plants.for this area..and they all.are.weeds and.horrible things with stickers.and.nothing kills.them.ams.they choke out all the nice ones. Things like hackberry trees, several.shrubs like privet..reallt.drive me.nuts
This.reminds me .our.record breaking ice.storms.that KILLED at least.26.LOCAL people before the local.news was told not to.report the deaths and govt offficals made it ILLEGAL TO GIVE OUT DEATH CAUSES... ALSO KILLED ALL MY NATIVE BULBS...AND I MUST.FIND A.SOURCE.
