I come from Brazil and just moved to Poland. I love doing hiking and climbing, but you know there is no ice in mountains in Brazil. Your advices have been great! Thank you!!
I am very happy that my video helps you, Antoine! 😄 And welcome to Europe! There are plenty of areas to go ice climbing around Europe! I have made a few videos about ice climbing in Europe - like Austria and Italy. You could check them out for inspiration 😄
Another variable to consider: weight! Petz Lynx Vs. Petzl Dart -> lightweight Vs. Modularity I believe the hybrids deserve a mention, like Petzl Sarken or Cassin Blade Runner
You are absolutely right! Personally, I actually shifted to the Black Diamond Stinger. One of my friends climb with the Cassin Blade Runner and he seems really happy. I haven't tried them myself, though ;)
Pure ice climbing dual points are amazing but mono points work just as well, but may feel less secure, practice makes perfect. For mixed, mono points, you wont twist your foot and have the load transfer from one point to the other.
I agree. I actually completely switched to mono points. Climb with the Black Diamond Stinger and I absolutely love it! Great precision and I don’t feel any less insecure either 😄
That is definitely a valid topic! Personally, I climb with the Scarpa Phantom for steep ice and the La Sportiva Trango Cube for alpine climbing. What about you?
Subscribed! Thanks for this video!!. Just a question. Should I replace my strapon crampons with semi-automatics? I have upgraded my boots actually after I moved. Before it was significantly long trekking/walking approaches to the mountains so robust trekking boots where ok although compromising later in more technical terrain/glaciers but the long trekking worth them. But where I live now, semi-rigid boots are the way to go. So the question is if my crampons should be replaced with semiautomatics too. (I have the Black diamond Serac strap-on version which are already 12 points). Thanks in advance!!
Hi Mikkel. Yes, you are absolutely right. The Black Diamond Snaggletooth is a horisontal "mono-point" - in quotation though as it has a secondary, supporting front point. I read that the Black Diamond Snaggletooth is designed for north faces with steep and icy snow slopes. I am considering getting a pair to try it out on some of the routes in the Alps. Have you any experience with the Black Diamond Snaggletooth you would like to pass on?
Congrats on the crampons! 😁 The Grivel G10 is definitely a good choice. It has received a lot of positive words through the years and it is a really solid design. You will be happy with them 😄
Very good question, udmbfck x, and thank you for your feedback 😄 These terms relate to the binding of the crampon - so how you attach them to your mountaineering boots. There are several different types and the major brands like Black Diamond, Petzl and Grivel all have different names. If you look in the video description below, then I have mapped out the different types and their respective names.
Across the brands of Grivel, Black Diamond and Petzl, which models would be recommended for the next ‘step up’ from say, general mountaineering like say the Grivel G12? If one was going to move from basic mountaineering towards slightly more technical, or first beginnings of ice climbing (not so steep yet)?
For ice climbing you should get something like the Grivel G14, Petzl Lynx or Black Diamond Cyborg - I recently tried the Black Diamond Cyborg for a couple of days and they are good value. Last season I switched to the Black Diamond Stinger, which is a mono-point crampon with vertical front-points.
Hi, just finished my first ice climbing ever this week. We were near Cogne, with guides from Chamonix. Beginners course. I used the Grivel G12, because I already had it and guides said it would be fine for our level. Some sections were vertical, and due to my poor beginner technique, I found it very difficult to get a good grip. However, people on the internet say that with good technique, man can climb WI4 with this crampon. I will soon be going again-I loved ice climbing! But am considering renting technical crampons...or maybe just try and improve technique with what I have? I already tried many ice tools, and purchased a set that I like, which makes it tough to buy new crampons 😉. However, it is hard to practice mastering good foot technique when you are just trying to not fall off the vertical sections! Thanks for your videos
Nice! I hope you found steep ice climbing fun anyway 😄 I would definitely recommend vertical front points for steep ice climbing. You will feel a significant difference in getting better grip. Get some with two front points as your first pair. It will get even better grip even though you loose some precision, but as a beginner crampon dual point crampons will make you feel safer 😄
@@Cragcloud I'm trying to work up to summiting mount Olympus here in Washington next summer. What would you suggest for use on a couple miles of glacier?
Good question! I keep both my crampons and ice climbing boots dry, out of direct sun light and at a temperature around 20-22 degrees Celsius - which is in the closet in my bedroom 😄
Awesome video as always! Thought I would add another tip as well that applies to Petzl crampons. The Irvis, Dart, Vasak and Sarken all use the same linking bar. So you can get a pair of say Irvis for general mountaineering and Dart front points for vertical ice and swap the fronts out depending on what you're doing. It ends up saving you around $90-$100 from buying the crampons separately. I'm not sure if it is the same case for BD crampons, would be good to know! As a suggestion have you looked into doing a video on different ice climbing grades? There doesn't seem to be any on youtube, and I am sure you would produce a top notch video! Cheers!
Thank you PatsyTy! That is an excellent tip! Actually, I am considering the Dart as my next crampon for steep ice! :) That is a great suggestion! There is definitely a huge different between the grades - especially when also comparing across disciplines such as steep ice, mixed climbing, alpine climbing and Scottish winter climbing. I am going on several ice climbing trips this winter - I am actually leaving for Aosta Vally in Northern Italy on Wednesday, and then a few trips to Rjukan in Norway. I will keep a grading video in mind - at least there will be new ice climbing videos on routes :)
Does anyone know if mammut Teton GTX boots are able to take crampons? They're the boots I have kicking around and are fairly sturdy, but was wondering if they would be worthy. I've never done much mountaineering
It doesn't look like it can take semi-automatic or full-automatic crampons as it misses the "edge" at the back for the boot. You can always strap on one of the "strap-on" crampons also shown in the video, but you need to be aware that the boot sole is not too soft since the crampon would then easily pop off. Strap-on crampons are fine for glacier hiking or very light mountaineering, but if you want to do more technical climbing, then I would suggest getting a stiffer mountaineering boot that is crampon compatible like the La Sportiva Trango Cube or maybe the Mammut Kento.
2020? and the video was uploaded on November 2018, LOL, editing the title trying to get more views is not the way to go, putting that aside, great video
@@Cragcloud I agree, but I think that it could be misleading people, expecting a "brand new video" from this year when it's not even though the information mentioned in this video is timeless and very well explained, as I said, great video, also thanks for taking your time to respond, I appreciate it :)
