That was awesome! You actually showed the technical, tiny parts up close so us dummies can I actually see what you are talkin about! Thanks a lot brother
I wouldn't make this a common practice viewers. Like the person said spend 4-5 bucks for maf sensor cleaner....A conservative amount of electrical contact cleaner can be used in an emergency. You have some very good videos posted, keep it up.
You're right this isn't something that needs to be done to a relatively new / clean sensor. If your MAF has years of accumulated burned on dirt like mine though, this may be the only way to get it clean.
***** I have seen MAF sensors with such a dirt build up that the dirt made the two terminal connect because of the dirt. which is nothing that CRC MAF cleaner cant touch you are leading people in the wrong direction
This vid shows many things of what NOT to do. Always use the correct Torx type driver on the bolts (unless your sensor uses the Phillips type). Never use paint thinner. It us much stronger than most people believe. Your auto parts store should have MAF sensor cleaning spray - not to be confused with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Never touch the wires with anything. The spray is all you'll need and it will evaporate completely. Please, take my advice against what this guys shows you.
Everyone here who is still experiencing issues with idling, surging etc. Try cleaning the Throttle Body and the IAC ( Idle air control valve) in ADDITION to cleaning the MAF. Doing the IAC clean tmrw morning before work :)
I know this is old , but it would help to demonstrate the problem before the repair . Then once you complete the repair , demonstrate that also .... This way it gives the viewer a clear understanding of what was wrong and how this fixed it ..........
Thanks for the video, it was helpful to see how to remove and clean the MAF. However, I would recommend using the proper cleaner, such as CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, which can be found at most automotive stores for around $7 or $8. It dries almost instantly, and does a great job. I just cleaned the MAF on my 1994 Ford Ranger (4.0L V6), and it's like I have a new engine! It was pinging badly when accelerating, especially uphill. At times I was having trouble maintaining 70km/h (40 mph) up a moderate hill. The MAF didn't look that dirty to me, but what a difference! Now I can put my foot to the floor and it accelerates like crazy without pinging. Worth every penny of that can of cleaner.
I am almost sure if you read. contents on can of Map it is equal to paint thinner. I mean they use the same chemical to dry clean your clothes that goes in Zippo lighters to make a flame. it's called MVP. Give the man a break. I think he is doing a good job. his bottom line is I think, to show us how simple, with very few supplies it can be to clean this sensor, therefore helping people that don't have time or xtra$ to do this project. I live 20-30 miles in any direction u go from any Auto parts store. I appreciate all his help. I'm about to go home if I can get my car there & clean mine. I'm a widow who appreciates saving every $1.00 I can. thank you all for Ur advice. little running dear.👧
I am almost sure if you read. contents on can of Map it is equal to paint thinner. I mean they use the same chemical to dry clean your clothes that goes in Zippo lighters to make a flame. it's called MVP. Give the man a break. I think he is doing a good job. his bottom line is I think, to show us how simple, with very few supplies it can be to clean this sensor, therefore helping people that don't have time or xtra$ to do this project. I live 20-30 miles in any direction u go from any Auto parts store. I appreciate all his help. I'm about to go home if I can get my car there & clean mine. I'm a widow who appreciates saving every $1.00 I can. thank you all for Ur advice. little running dear.👧
I used my cutoff tool to make flat head screws out of those little bastards, worked good, then I used some MAF cleaner on the MAF and used the same stuff on the IAC , cleaned them both and the truck idled perfect after that.
I was be bopping down the wal mart parking, found one of those not knowing years later i wood hav needed it, needed one sahsam! Pulled it from my torx bit box the very one i found bam perfect fit to my MAF bolts! Blessings r ever were!
It’s possible to do this... don’t know what’s with the haters. It’s just two platinum wires. You can clean them this way. You just have to be careful. Don’t bend them. Don’t scratch them. It’s just a set of heating elements. It works by detecting the resistance increase or decrease because of heat of the wire. As long as you don’t destroy the surface or bend the wires (because that will effect resistance) you’re golden.
I have a similar elderly pickup, a 1994 Mazda B4000. Same as a Ranger, really. In that era, Ford was building them for Mazda so the parts are mostly identical. The little wires were well-coated in soot on mine.. One thing extra I did was swab out the area where the little wires live. It's some sort of venturi or director, probably to "de-turbulantize" the air to get a good representative flow sample. If that's dirty too, it would affect the accuracy, no doubt.
The wires are actually resistors, The electrical resistance changes with the amount of air flow . A cotton swab with electrical contact cleaner will work . A new mass flow sensor will cost you about $80 at an auto store ,and is easy to change.
This are all the things you DON'T want to do, especially poking at the wires with a Q-Tip. The Platinum wires are very delicate and any abrasions will damage the wires. It well cost you in excess of $250.00 to replace the MAF sensor. The screws are TORX T-20 and you want to use (CRC) QD Electronic Cleaner, it's designed for purpose of cleaning electrical wires.
Watched this video the other day. I soaked my MAF sensor for 2 days in alcohol. The electrodes were shiny when I took the sensor out of the alcohol. The alcohol disolved the crud that coated them. Then I used a small electric razor cleaning brush and very carefully, lightly brushed the electrodes. I disagree with using a Q-Tip. The little cotton threads will stick to the electrodes or "wires". The "wires" are sturdy because they are not "wires," they are electrodes. Wires are bendable, electrodes are not. The resistors that are attached to them are the more delicate parts. Alcohol is fine to clean the electrodes, but I wouldn't use paint thinner. It does leave a residue. Alcohol is an excellent solvent and evaporates. You can use it on any dirty or corroded electrical components from 8 Track and cassette tape recording heads to PC boards with excellent results. My Mercury Grand Marquis with 200,000+ miles idles great after cleaning. And, buy the security screw screwdriver tips; don't use a pair of visegrips. Walmart has them. Going to do the one on my truck next.
Aaron F Thanks! A lot of people have said they would be hesitant to use the thinner, but I did this video about 2 years ago and the MAF still works great.
***** I went to the auto store yesterday and bought maf sensor cleaner and throttle body cleaner for $15, when I probably could have used the carb cleaner that I already had in the garage. Was just being cautious about damaging some sensitive system that I don't fully understand. Should have watched this first, I guess.
I'm bout to just try using a bowl of MAF cleaner instead since I already had it, but I'll still use the same process. Honestly, older vehicles were made much tougher, so its a great video to follow on older vehicles. Newer vehicles r probably more sensitive, so maybe not so much for them, lol.
Hello, jenniesgarage. Thanks for the info! By the way, I have a set of bits for those particular screws and they are officially called Security Torx screws. Just FYI. Thanks again.
I have to agree with some of your views in that, we are left puzzled. What was the effect before and after. Thank you for demonstrating this either way.
"Security" Torx hex attachments can be purchased from many places, including Harbor Freight. Also. MAF spray cleaners (NOT CARB cleaner) spray can be purchased at your local auro store
The reason they tell you not to touch the sensor wires is because they will break easily or if you leave oil or fiber contaminants behind they could cause the sensor wire(s) to fry as they cook off. As he noted in the video the wires heat up. That's also why youn should leave it to dry before reinstalling. I don't see any harm in using pain thinner as it is non-corrosive. Carb and brake cleaner gases become corrosive when heated.
Take a mini flat head screwdriver and break off that little pin that's in the middle of the security screws. Than you can use a regular torx screw driver or even a flat head to unscrew.
or just stop messing around with defeating these security torx since they're now in lots of products and instead buy a set of small security torx bits for about $4 and Do. It. Right. For. Life.
Stinky Cheese how bout they stop making thousands of different screws and just use philips and flathead.... fucking retarded people in the manufacturing business
Jayce Grimm There aren't thousands of different screw heads (bit shapes) commonly used, including security torx there's only about 8 depending on your definition of "commonly". Absolutely not flathead, they're terrible and only exist because over 100 years ago they were easier to machine. Philips are fine but still inferior to other alternatives for mechanical reasons. Mufti-faceted types like hex or star with straight walled holes allow much greater torque without stripping the head or the tool, and make for much more precise assembly line use by robots. Granted a lot of the time, actually almost every time the screw is not recessed I would prefer a standard hex bolt head instead of a rounded rim, but think about something. A set of bits costs about $5 and will last decades. That's less than the cost of lunch so it's about the last gripe I could have about automotive maintenance or vehicle design. How about stainless hardware instead so it doesn't rust so much? Hardened stainless is weaker but they could simply use the next size up fastener and we'd be able to get the damn things off without them being seized in due to rust, but it might add $10 to the cost of a $35,000 vehicle and maybe 3lbs weight.
***** it would be easier to just go buy a set of security bits to remove it then that, you could damage the head and not be able to remove it... Besides, most guys love to have more tools, even if we barely use them, LOL You can buy a set of security bits at Harbor Freight tool supply or find them on ebay...
For the record, I had my 94 F150 since 94 and used Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, alky, bleach, pinesol and some sort of HD house cleaning stuff WD40, Fuel cleaner, STp and Lucus Fuel stabilzer and rinsed with carb or WD40.... it's 2014 and have yet to replace a sensor and truck runs just like day one. You dont have to use all of the ASE certified BS that these folks are saying you are federally required to use. Hell WD40 does wonders and again ... 94-2014 .. Never had a faulty sensor and still runs. Whether some of these high tech mechanics believes its wrong... it still works! and shit, I've used that electrical cleaner to clean my brakes when I ran out of carb cleaner so hell it does the same damn thing!.
Im telling the truth I don't have to go around lying and 1uping every leg humper on here. It's pure experience and yea I been spraying everything I can but paint and why? Because it works and doesen't destroy anything like everyone else is saying. Stop believing every little thing you see or hear from others and see and believe for yourself. If they are destroying sensors they need to stop spraying it so close and trying to use the whole damn can to clean it.
So.. you have 15 different things you can spray on your MAF, but not MAF cleaner? LOL Also... WD-40? Lysol?? What's wrong with you? Don't take this guys advice people, I will agree that you don't need all of the ASE crap all of the time but anyone who has ever sprayed WD-40 on anything knows that it leaves a greasy residue that can be very difficult to remove. He says he speaks from experience, all I am saying is don't believe every troll on the internet who has been lucky. Use your brain. Oily substance on a heated wire = hotter wire. Besides, why would there be WATER getting on your MAF? You do know WD-40 = Water Displacement formula 40 right? And lysol? What are you afraid your MAF has influenza? Sorry bud but engines aren't affected by biological factors unless you count mold/bacteria growing on your condesnor. Sounds like you're either a troll and want people to screw their cars up or you're just a rampant idiot who sprays random chemicals on electronic devices hoping it will "do something." Just get some $6 MAF cleaner and be done with it. Maybe this guy has been lucky, but why take a chance on a $100+ part just because it is what you have on hand.
Nothing wrong with me, the world thinks there's one thing for every part made in the universe and if you dont use that exact one, it's wrong. Carb cleaner uses the same substance as electrical cleaner but a bit stronger. Hell i've dropped my MAF in pure water and we know water dont like itself if it could rust. WD40 hurts nothing! does exactly what it says and if anything it is safer that carb cleaner so whats wrong with YOU!? lol Hey man, I've cleared water out of my gas with a little dollar general alcohol!!!! (not the whole bottle) and truck runs just fine still. Opps i guess I should've purchased the $10.99 bottle of the same stuff from autozone right ;-/ I guess im not allowed to use industrial dish cleaner because I'm using it in the house not in the restaraunt right? Wasnt being a smart a#@ I promise, just my humor. Point being is just because the label says elec cleaner dont mean you are federally required to ONLY use that ONLY for electricals, shoot I cleared rust off an unpainted area with that stuff but I guess I should have purchased a 29.99 bottle of anti rust and cover up the issue instead huh? :-) lol wow this world man
and PS.... CLEAN YOUR AREA AND YOU WONT HAVE HOTTER AREAS!. Secondly again, just because its something you have not done does not mean it's nationally wrong! You can troll me all you like, step out of your pink and blue box a bit and understand what you use! and stop trying to make the world beleieve one is wrong while you believe you are 100% right! Lysol is a cleaning substance that has chemicals to remove grease not JUST bacteria! WD40, you should have already known whats in that. Carb cleaner and Elec cleaner same thing! There's no "taking a chance" and being luckly, i've my stuff has been running this long since 94!!!! and been using NOTHING BUT CARB cleaner, then I believe we are a wee bit past luckly dont you think? Also I didn't glob the whole damn motor with wd40 and I believe heat tends to dry stuff up so where are you trying to manipulate heat and grease? WD is an oil and you spray THIN not use the whole bottle I guess lighting my cig on the stove was a 50 state illegal rule and more illegal in my city when I should have run in the room 1000sq the other way for my lighter huh? Damn thundercats I tell ya
They are called Secure Torx. Camcar Textron in Rockford, IL made them. I used to work for them. Funny thing is, you will find them holding most bathroom stall walls together because a lot of people dont have that bit. Every hardware still will carry them.
Thanks for sharing! My fords got way over 250000.0 miles on her too! Fords are tough! At least the rear wheel drives! The way its going, my first ford will b the only one i will ever need! She a 02 Mustang GT 5speed, only motor oil i use is mobil 1 full syn. 10w-30! that 5w-stuff is to thin at temp!
02 escape and a can of maf cleaner. About ten short sprays with time to dry each spray...bam..way better throttle response. I do this every oil change.and I love the jewlers bar. Use it to polish stuff alot
Good job brother!.. but I would also recommend NOT to touch the MAF wires at any time what so ever. And as much as I thank carb cleaner/paint thinner ECT. Would be fine and safe to use!.. I stubbornly agreed with my stepdad to go ahead and USE the CRC MAF CLEANER just to be safe! Great video brother! But Yes, listen to these kata pilla killa's ! 😊😊
Thanks - learned everything I now know about MAF from you in the last 6 minutes and 40 seconds. My 2005 Ford Explorer died on the side of the road today with the same symptoms it had 6 weeks ago, which turned out to be the MAF. When I go back to the garage tomorrow I will have a better perspective of what they tell me. Only thing, the ODBII codes the engine put out were indecipherable - when I googled the codes there doesn't seem to be an accurate table for what I am seeing.
TAMPER PROOF TORX SCREWS require the proper bits if you get some that are in a precarious position. I do believe that a simple can of MAF sensor cleaner would be best if there is a parts store within reasonable distance. Good luck.
They are called Secure Torx. Camcar Textron in Rockford, IL made them. I used to work for them. Funny thing is, you will find them holding most bathroom stall walls together because a lot of people dont have that bit. Every hardware still will carry them.
I made kind of an impulse purchase of a set of about 12 different kinds of bits in a set, stuff i'd never even seen before was included. Guess what just came in handy today.
I had a bad spark knock in my 2000 Ranger 5 speed . Tried a lot od different things to get rid of it . Changing the thermastat from 197 Degree to 180 degree stopped the spark knock and the truck is running great.
Getting your nose so close to the paint thinner and breathing the fumes in will do wonders for your sinuses. On the up side, if you ever accidentally snort paint it is unlikely to stick.
Those are Torx "tamper-resistant", or "security" screws--- designed to discourage DIY'ers from messing up the delicate filaments. Another way is to buy a spray can of mass air flow sensor cleaner and squirt it in from inside the housing for the sensor. Safer.
May I make a suggestion? When I run acrost these type of screws that are accesable I punch and drill out the centr stud and a Torx will work! Now I have a set of Torx that has a center hole for this type! none the Less replace the screws for future applications in this case!
I see this video has gotten over a million views. That's too bad because this video is how NOT to take off and clean the sensor. I wish people like you would leave instructional videos to actual mechanics.
bring it to a garage, sometimes maf sensors will be bad and not throw a code, Maf sensors are frequency generating sensors,(wires are heated to 392degrees f as air goes across they cool down and it needs more current to maintain the temp, there for creating different frequency.)so sometimes you will get signal drop outs, you will not get proper frequency ranges,etc. The only way to properly diagnose these are with a lab oscilloscope. Also if its running lean you can find out alot of information
It's a good caution to not touch the thermodynamic resistors if it can be avoided, but they are stronger that what is generally assumed. They are not like filaments in a light bulb. They are hundreds of times stronger. If a resistor is badly coated with hydrocarbon varnish, direct gentle contact might be needed. If not, us the spray only.
Haha takes long enough to get to 60 never mind trying to push over it ha, cool ill give that a try one of the days and ill let u know how I get on, thanks for the reply and video is very helpful
Some MAFs need a a cleaner that is formulated to NOT destroy a coating over the small wires. Make sure whether yours is one that needs that type cleaner before you spray it ...
I have a ford f250 and the check engine light has been coming on a lot latly and getting on my nerves...you think that is the problem what you just cleaned?
Buy the right tool tool man! It's called a Tamper-Proof Torque bit. Guarantee this was not the problem but may very well be after cleaning it with paint thinner.
In the time he spent doing this method, I could've taken 5 minutes to used a MAF sensor spray and had time left over to have a beer and bang my girlfriend.
Be extremely careful touching those two wires with a q-tip or anything else. . I just barely touched one with a q-tip and one of the wires broke. Video is great and helpful, just be careful with the little wires.
Have you had your ford ranger stall on you yet? With 200K miles on it what problems have you had with this car? Awesome video enough to understand what the heck is in the sensor :P. DIY
Sure you're not trying to snort the thinner? Lol. I was wondering what the difference between maf cleaner and electrical/ brake cleaner is? Maf cleaner is more pricey.
That is a security screw, if you have a harbor freight tool supply near by you can buy a set of bits that will have the correct one you need. Also you can find them on ebay they are not that bad on price...
What is the name of that plug you took off first. Cause when I was changing my alternator I took that off and when I was done I forgot to plug it back in. Drove it engine started knocking while I was driving ................. I checked it after whatching this video and realised what I have done a piece of the plug melted it still fits inside and it drives like when it was given to me but I would rather be safe and replace that plug than be sorry and mess up my car.
You aren't supposed to remove the MAF housing. Hence the "goo" that's on the other screw. If you remove the entire cast piece the maf is screwed on to. You can clean it that way.
Harbor freight sell a security bit set for litterly 3 bucks, it will have the hollowed out torque bit you need to remove the screws! I know this is an old video, but figured I'd share! Plus, buy the right cleaner and be done with it! Ha
Does this sensor cause the idle to rev up perhaps better stated for no reason at all my rpms will go up. Then they will slowly go back down to about 1 a little under. I have a 1994 Ford Explorer 4.0 so your sensor it's placed differently than mine
+1 Just buy the security Torx to begin with because they work on regular Torx as well. Or if you already have regular Torx and you are cheap like me drill some holes in the end of your Torx bits and be happy. (Easier said than done)
Good think you don't have a Chevy. They put star and torx head bolts in everything. They put big ones in the front brake calipers for the slide bolts so you need a set to do your brakes
