How to Clean, Repair and Rebuild Motorcycle Brake Calipers 

Meh, I just washed them out inside with rubbing alcohol until all the rusty mud fluid was out, then put some fresh brake fluid in there and sloshed it around as well and let it dribble out and called it good. Grease is a double edged sword... on the one hand while clean it makes things slide better, up until the point it's stuck full of dirt, and then it creates more friction and abrasion.

@Ulises David if you hacked another person's account, you're no friend.

It's a high temperature grease it will not melt/run, read the tin "high temperature anti seize grease for mating surfaces". It was always used on brake backing plates and wheel hubs to prevent seizing, just so it's easier to remove when next needed. Squealing is caused by dust on the friction surface rubbing against the disc (less likely on open motorcycle brakes), so you are right there, it will not prevent that. It is fine to use but for the most part not needed on modern pads, especially when the backing plate is copper itself as many now are. So many people are misinformed by channels run by pretend 'experts'.

​@@HalfdeadRider The Workshop on RU-vid has done several videos regarding people putting grease on the back of pads. Long story short, don't; there is no good reason to do it. You're comment actually kind of reinforces this, as you say, it does nothing but make it easier to remove the pads next time. Seems completely pointless, pads are not exactly hard to remove, if anything the are likely to fall out of place as soon as the caliper is removed. Seems like it's more of a habit than anything else. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UzJeToiY4Ik.html BTW, he is an Engineer with plenty of experience

@@UnCivilEngineerIRL It's one of those things that gets handed down through generations of workers, and from teacher to students. That is why people still use these methods that once were needed. Due to material changes (brake pads generally have copper backing plates now) they no longer actually are needed, either way as said, it will do as much harm as good, zero. So actually anyone who say's it's bad/dangerous are more misinformed than people who say you should use copper grease. Same goes with O-rings and the use of WD40 or brake cleaner on or near them. O-rings are much better than they once were, but also WD40 and brake cleaner don't have certain ingredients that once could/would cause issues.

​@@HalfdeadRider I know why people do it, because they saw someone else do it, and that is not an excuse; particularly when the workshop manuals and brake suppliers explicitly state that it should not be done. I was helping a friend do some work on his bike and he was going to put copper grease on the threads of the spark plugs before installing them ... because he saw his father (a mechanic) do it. This is not a good idea as it changes the friction characteristics of the thread and can cause over tightening of the spark plugs (or any fastener) and lead to damage such as stripped threads. Also it has absolutely no benefits. Yes, it is no longer needed, we can agree on that much for sure but the latter part regarding it being more misinformed to not do something unnecessary or detrimental is absolutely asinine ! As for whether or not is is dangerous or not ... Brembo, EBC and the likes say that it is; end of discussion. I don't know enough about polymers/elastomers or solvents and chemistry to comment one way or the other. I just follow the manufacturers instruction since they have done the testing for me.

@@UnCivilEngineerIRL I've told you why and it's fact, us mechanics used to use it all the time, no doubt many still do and that's ok. Years back it could be a right pain getting wheels and brake pads off/out on cars. As for on threads, it's also what it is for, it's a contact anti seize, you'll only over tighten nut's and bolts enough to cause issues if you actually over tighten them, a little copper grease or thread locker will not cause any issues, it prevents future issues. it's also high temperature grease, just never use for moving parts as it's obviously abrasive. It's only dangerous if it gets on the friction surface, and that only happens if you are silly enough to put it there. If you like to listen to the real experts, read the labels, do some research and stay away from youtubers who clearly don't know fully what they are talking about. Brake manufacturers will tell you the same as I did above, second end of discussion 😂😂

No shade but how does brake cleaner swell the seals? Doesn't it just evaporate?

do you still need help?

@kenny how can i help you?

Lol did you poop

Yor a bad content bro not funny

I agree, they haven't shown how to remove and replace seals.

Looks like you don't need them or they don't exist. :/

IgWannA2 is that the same as copper slip?

Donovan Lawrence Copper slip/grease it's just the same thing basically.

So it won’t squeak

@@CBCycles That's what the anti squeal shims are for.

+TheGeordieBiker Sorry, I forgot to put a message on the video that's it's coming soon - should go up next week.

TheRideAdvice you could just pump the brake leaver to push the piston out if you don't have tools

hydraulic pressure

James James void

carburettor or parts cleaner...or just dishwashing detergent

You don't have to. It only helps the removal of the piston.

How the fuck are we supposed to know?

Amen to that, I learned the hard way, Ouch!

sktr28 my uncle too. Thankfully i learned at my apprenticeship how to handle that

Haha thanks for mentioning this was just about to do it using pressurised air now hopefully I wont hurt my hand.

you can even use air pressure with 4 piston calipers, though you need to jam some cloth or paper towels into the piston cylinders otherwise all the air will just go out those holes lol

Arved Ludwig how to show how to remove and rebuild and replace rear caliber on 2012 electric glide Harley Davidson

Minibonde is that the same as copper slip?

I imagine its sorta similar, dont really know what copperslip consists of to be honest. The oldschool mechanics, like i said, have been using this stuff and advising to do so, which is just .. well, its bad! :D Its just an invitation for rust really. However i feel like i gotta say this - there are maaaaany different manufacturers, and so the many products vary. Some focus de-magnetizing the product, thereby eliminating the risk of the chemical reaction between metals. Last.. If you must use something on it, use a kind of plasti-lube and then use spray-grease on bolts etc... if you must

I didn't even notice they skipped over that

This is a poor video.

So you're the type of person that would replace brake pads ( when brand new have 20mm's) when they have around 8mm's left? That's dumb unless the bike you're replacing them on is a track bike and you literally compete in races too. For the every day rider who doesn't put more than 10k miles per year on his or her bike, that's a waste of money replacing them too early.