thanks. I hate long winded youtube videos... just get to the &*^%$ point. So I made this one to be the "anti-youtube video"... complete with the icon missing that my face making a dumb expression and pointing at something that didn't happen in the video...
For the longest time I couldn't wrap my head around how the 50A 3 prong inlets could possibly pass the 2 hot, neutral and ground through until I learned there was a 4th contact on the side of the connector. Thank you for explicitly making this fact known as everyone seemed to gloss over it as if everyone should just know the 78 different "standard" connector types and how to adapt them.
We have used the ru-vid.comUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I’m up here in Fort Worth, I have the little predator to just do the bedrooms. Before watching your video, had the electrician wire up the 50 amp plug to the house. Also installed a sub panel with all the bedrooms. Figured it would get me through the winter if needed (like you we lived through the stupid ice storm last year). I got a kerosene heater for heat if needed, and have 3 bottles of emergency propane to cook in an emergency. You hit the nail on the head do not get a 30 amp plug outside, go 50. For my setup (because I had the 3600 watt generator already and didn’t want to drop $4200 at once, I am ready to do exactly what you did when the time comes. I paid the electrician $800 for the breakers, sub panel, outside plug, and to have him hook it up. He wasn’t happy when I rolled the little 30 amp genny out there when he was done, but he did agree to build me a 20 foot 30 to 50 amp cord for it (included in the price). Smart move he said, I don’t need to come back when I get your setup running, even though I will to get him to move the A/C, dryer, and water heater breakers into the subpanel. Also, if you go my route, buy a large sub panel so you have room to add all those to the new panel. Excellent video man, no one knows what the heck is going on, and I did pick up quite a few things. No power for a day or 2….no problem. No power for 2 weeks is sub 20 degree temps…..yeah you’ll be watching this video, bet 3/4ths of the views are Texans on here, lol.
That sir was extremely well done video. I setup our predator 9500 generator about a year ago and I did it exactly the same way you did yours. Kudos to you and this video. 👏
Awesome video! Very good information here folks. Let's recognize the amount of time this man spent gathering part numbers and how simple the information was conveyed! I am A NEW SUSCRIBER
Thanks! I just went for give the info, minimal fluff. Basically I went for the most "anti-youtube style video" I could manage. No long professional intro followed by a VHS quality looking production... no begging for likes and "smashing that bell", I don't tell you what I had for lunch, my cat's name, and/or waste 75% of the video with useless fluff... and most importantly... no thumbnails with the most absurd expression I could manage on my cut out face with a cartoon explosion in the background.
Thank for the detailed explanation of how you choose to do yours. Funny how winter is coming and this was suggested, us Texas people remember how ERCOT essentially has done nothing since snowmageddon. I’m running my backup off a welding machine and prepared for this coming winter!
A welding machine would certainly work. It's gonna use more fuel and be old school windings, but it will get the job done for a temp solution for sure. And it serves a purpose when not needed for the house.
Step 1: install a Generlink transfer switch Step 2: attach generator to the Generlink Problem solved. I love the generator shed you've built. Very cool.
I like those, so much more simple. But there are some drawbacks. Pros: Super easy to hook up (even has surge protection) Automatic and safe switchover, no thought or process required If it's raining, you don't have to mess with your breakers in the wet raining weather (scary) Cons: Proprietary and expensive cable to connect to it. Can't use that cable for other purposes (Such as to hook up an RV, etc) Requires electric company to pull your meter so you can put this thing behind it Max 40A (unless there is a larger model I'm not seeing) Expensive at ~$800 - $1000 vs. around $100 to $200 total for the conventional way
Really good description and video. I have two notes for you to consider: 1. The generators should really be further away from the house. Many folks have died from this as follows: The hot gas comes out of the generator and rises into the vents under the eve of the house. The hot gas goes up into the attic, cools and falls down into the house. It is odorless. I would at lease add several carbon monoxide detectors in the house. 2. Lockouts are the cheap and easy way to go if all your ever going to do is a gas generator. If you ever end up adding a solar generator or battery backed solar then the multi switch transfer switches are much better. That's because you can run the solar and the utility at the same time on individual circuits. You would never do that with a gas generator because it would make no sense. With solar, you can run it year round to save money and the TX switch allows you do run just a few circuits off the solar at the same time the utility is holding up the house. Its future proofing the house. Thanks!
Generally, yeah, you're quite right. For this setup, my enclosure is on wheels so if I need to I can easily scoot it such that it's exhausting out from under the eve. Additionally, the cooling fan for the generator and the exhaust are right next to each other, so it's being propelled quite a bit forward, and, I have a significant sized shop fan on the porch that I can run that further blows the exhaust away and creates quite a bit of airflow. Also the roof there doesn't penetrate into the wall nor goes as high as the attic, so there isn't an easy ingress for the gas into the home. So I'm not too bothered by it in that location. But... before I had this setup, I tried running a small portable generator on my front porch, where up to the second floor it's enclosed on top and on 3 sides, and you're absolutely right, even that small unit, outside but still close to the house, we could absolutely tell was clearly seeping into the house on the second floor and I had to move it. One does have to be careful.
Crazy the number of these videos I've seen and you're the first to explain the wiring of the breaker box with the alternating X/Y, the first to explain a number of things. Great job! My inlet box was done with 30A back when I had a 5kw genny, and now with the same Predator 9500 I'm thinking it's a little light, although the Predator has a 32A continuous output. I'm assuming a startup peak or surges are not going to cause a dangerous overload of the cable? Oddly, my 25-30ft cable from genny was custom made by an electrician years like twenty years ago, with 8g and L1430 on each end.
Based on what I'm seeing with online calculators, they seem to imply you're ok with that length and wire gauge setup. Breakers aren't usually "instant off" when you hit the max. There are a lot of factors that go into when it eventually trips (temp being a big one). Similarly, unless something is wired badly a 30amp inlet isn't going to instantly blow up if 32amps pass through. If 30amps is sufficient for your needs, it sounds like your setup should be pretty solid. If you have central AC or AC compressors that need to be run, you might look at the softstart video I made. Those things have some kind of hoo doo voodoo black magic, that makes all the difference in the world with being able to run them off generators.
What a great video this is. You put my foot in the door using my new Pred 9500. I knew this could be done without running a bunch of extension cords. Now at least I have some understanding of what this is about. I bought a whole house back-up generator and before installation I learned what a glutton it is for propane. And they wanted around $7,500 to install it. I’m going this route instead of burning 3 - 4 gallons of propane an hour. So thanks, your efforts are appreciated.
Glad it helped. In my case, natural gas isn't in my neighborhood, the whole place (my home included) is all electric. So bringing propane into the mix (making a pad, renting a tank, plumbing the line, etc) would have been a huge and expensive hassle. If you need a multi-fuel generator, take a look at the GENMAX GM9000iED on Amazon, it fixes all the shortcomings of the Predator and the Duromax. And is made by the same factory/people, and makes the same clean power.
Glad you found it helpful. Lots of people have "reviews" of the generators and such, but nothing seemed to explain the common questions and concerns. I basically explained what I learned, and the mistakes I made to save others the hassle. :-)
Since you hooked the generator to your house, how did you manage the grounding?Did u unhook the generator chassis ground or use a grounding rod or you did nothing but use the ground from the plugs on the generator. Thanks. Super video
Excellent video: Clear, concise and complete information presented in easy to understand and easy to follow manner and without any annoying babble. Thank you! Bernhard
First I want to say you did a hell of a job explaining everything! My only question is how much would this cost to call out an electrician to hook this up? I just purchased a Predator 9500 a couple weeks ago for my sister and brother who constantly lose power.
Depends on the electrician and all that. I'd GUESS, maybe $300. maybe more maybe less. By the time you factor in you buying the cable, conduit, socket, breaker, etc. etc. It might even be more attractive to have an electrician do it if they have the parts on hand.
I enjoyed your video thanks ! Before seeing your video I had been bought the Predator 9000 and then to Lows this morning and purchased the 30RK Transfer switch kit 20amp /30 amp wish me luck I’m calling in a A professional electrician 😂
Glad it helped. I'd look closely at the interlock solution if you can make that work. If you're going transfer switch, I'd use an electrician too, it's a lot more complex than adding a breaker and a "slidey metal plate thing".
Thanks. I try to make it content based, and not about what I had for lunch, my cat's name, and 25 minutes of various other fluff filler... all for 10 seconds of actual useful content.... oh... and no click-bait thumbnails featuring my face with the most ridiculous expression I can manage... :-)
Glad it was helpful. I can't stand click-bait headlines and ridiculous video icons of the person's face pulling the most stupid expression they can manage... You don't find out my cat's name, what I had for breakfast, or any other filler BS. Just the info, go go go, pause if you need to and back up. I won't ever have a million subscribers (don't beg for "smashing that bell" and subscriptions), but my videos (when I make them) try very hard to be useful and more about the subject matter than my ego. :-)
Hello Jason, I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your videos! Great recommendation for the magnetic dipstick! I have a Predator 9500 being delivered next week. Thanks to your tutorials, I feel ready to go! Your videos are the best I have seen. Well done and Thanks for your time and efforts! Jim
Much appreciated! I tried to make 'em helpful, and with very little fluff. Bonus points for cut out thumbnails of my face featuring a stupid or confused expression that has little to do with the video. :-)
I just did mine and it was pretty simple and easy. I had help from the guy next door. But it wasn't too bad and after we got everything done we both smiled and shook hands lol.
Check the temps on the inclosure. Those fans may be too small. You could also add a temp switch to turn off the gens in case of overheating like I did in mine.
I like the idea of at least being notified if things get too hot. A temp switch would be good, but I think perhaps a basic wireless meat thermometer mounted in a way that is intended to stay in there. Set the heat notification low, and it will alarm in the house if any of the temps climb too high. This is what I used for my testing (but it's also for my smoker so it's not permanently mounted in the box. The machines themselves each have fairly powerful cooling fans that are mechanically linked to the engine. They draw cool air in through the intakes, and exhausts the hot air out of a vent located just above the engine exhaust. Since the box is otherwise sealed, by making a seal with that foam around the exhaust area, it forces the cooling fans in the generators to act as circulation fans, pulling incoming through the box. The idea being that even if the electric fans were to fail, the mechanical fans are always running, proportional to the engine speed, to draw in fresh outside air and actively blow heat out of the box. Hopefully this would avoid a major overheating (fire / meltdown) type of event In your enclosure, if your design allows for it, you might try making a seal around the exhaust / air exhaust to the outside on yours. So far with mine, the total guess work seems to have been close enough, and the temps have always remained roughly 2-3 degrees of ambient.
My requirement for a home backup generator: 240 volts, dual fuel, inverter, floating neutral, electric start. I did a ton of research and found only one generator that met all of my needs, the WEN DF875iX. It was only $1050 and has free shipping. The Predator isn't dual fuel and Duromax equivalent cost around $2000 and both have the neutral bonded to the frame.
Check out the GENMAX GM9000iED on Amazon. It is made by the same factory responsible for the Harbor Freight and the Duromax. They sell on Amazon. It combines the best features of all of them. Dual Fuel, Rear Exhaust, 240V Parallel capable, wireless remote start, good meters on the panel, Oil Filter screen, same engine as the Duromax and the Harbor Freight. Also has a 50amp dryer plug on the panel. Basically it fixes the shortcomings of each of the other models.
Yes, the Honda units are absolutely excellent, and really are the "gold standard" for these types of generators, but they are more than 2x the cost. If you're using it every day, maybe seriously consider the Honda. But I didn't want to spend that kind of money.
Very well said strught forward My genie don’t have an 50amp Plug in So im use the 30amp plug in my question is ? Can I still use a 50 amp breaker and 8 gage wire to connect my 30amp outlet to my breaker box and a 50 amp breaker ? Luke I said my genie don’t have a 50amp plug in . Any and all information is greatly appreciated
yes absolutely. You can overspec the plug and wiring. But the breaker is up to you how you want to handle it. If you are setting your inlet up to be CAPABLE of taking 50 amps, then yeah, you'd need a 50amp breaker... and if you just happen to feed a max of 30 amps into it, no problem. The breaker needs to match the wiring and socket. If you did a 30 amp breaker, it wouldn't hurt anything, but, if you tried to feed 50amps through the socket later on, the breaker would be prone to tripping.
One of the most comprehensive videos I've seen on this topic. However, I must be missing something, but how do you get 50 amp out of the 30 amp Predator? Seems like the key to the whole thing and I didn't see it mentioned.
There are more videos in the series. ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN Because these generators are Inverter based, the power is made electronically, and the frequency is consistent regardless of engine speed. Normal generators AC frequency is tied directly the speed of the engine shaft turning the generator coils. Because it's electronic, you can join more than one together, and they'll sync and 'team up' to increase the total power output. I combined two together and made a parallel kit to act as a power tap, thus what I can get is closer to 60Amps continuous.
@@markkempton4579 Yeah, it's really strange. It clearly works, and it seems like it would just help them sell that many more generators. I don't know why HFreight isn't offering them... especially after this much time has passed.
One thing that I’d like to know: If it’s a 50A generator does that mean it’s supplying 25A to X leg and 25A to Y leg? Or 30A generator supplying 30A to X leg OR 30A to Y leg?
In your example, if it's a 240v generator, yes that's the case. 240v loads pull equal from each side. So a 10a 240v load, would leave 15A on X, and 15A on Y available for 110v loads. The difference in an unbalanced load, returns on the neutral circuit to complete the loop. It's best to try to keep them balanced, but since the location of the breaker determines what leg is being pulled from, it's usually a best effort kind of thing. Whereas 240 consists of two hot wires with no neutral, but that said, it's worth noting that most 240v plugs also include a neutral because lots of appliances need the neutral in order to draw from one of the legs to neutral for smaller 110v loads (lights, electronics, etc).
It seems one must move breakers around so the interlock kit matches properly with the main breaker; is this correct? Are there different shapes of interlock plates?
They do have different Interlock kits for different breaker boxes. But you must put the generator breaker in the correct position for the interlock plate to be able to block it. (this may involve moving a breaker, which is super easy, they just pop out and pop in, but be careful, high voltage in there)
Well laid out video. Very helpful, except you don't speak to houses that have an outside shutoff between the meter and the power company feed. That's what I have, and I'm assuming as long as that shutoff is in the off position when running my generator, I have no need for other safety devices to prevent incoming current from the power company. in. Is that correct?
The safety device isn't just for you and your equipment, it's for people (linemen) that may be working on a system that is expected to be off. Would what you describe work technically? I would think so, provided the cut off switch truly disconnects all the hot wires. However it wouldn't be safe, nor to code / legal. The logic behind an interlock or a transfer switch is that one can't make a mistake, and accidentally do it wrong. In the case of the interlock, there is a metal plate that physically blocks the breaker from turning on unless the other breaker is in the correct position. So short of taking it apart, one can't inadvertently screw it up and send power where it's not supposed to go. With the cut off switch you described, you could easily have the generators on and connected, and, have the cut off switch in a closed (connected) position as well. So the safety of the system relies on the operator performing the action exactly right on the start and the finish... and someone not trained in it's operation could easily flip a breaker and cause potentially disastrous results. So I would still STRONGLY suggest an interlock plate. (The cutoff switch is nice however, so you can work in the breaker box knowing all the power in there is actually off)
Jay , love your video, setting my predator 9500 up very similar, Have had conversations on should I also ground the generator to the same grounding rod as the house for safety, would like to know your opinion, thanks
So many possibilities here… is the generator a floating neutral or a bonded neutral. Does your transfer switch maintain the main service panel neutral bond to the generator when switched in. If the generator is bonded and is supplying power to the bonded main panel in the house, this could create a circuit within a circuit that may be against code. There are other bond/no bond considerations. When in doubt give an electrician a shout.
Some people will disconnect the ground from the back of the panel on the generators. If it's a permanent install, it's accepted that this should be done. However for temp installs (easily disconnectable ones with portable generators) the consensus seems to be "do it if you want, but no biggie". I've not bothered and have no issues.
I wish generators would advertise max AMPS and running AMPS as well as watts since the starting AMPS on your AC (LRA) will be the real determining factor in sizing your generator for whole home use
Agreed. But alas, "9500" looks a lot better to a marketing person than "7400". :-) At least they publish the actual numbers, in some cases they don't bother and it's hard to tell. And to make things even more messy with that high "peak" number... there's no standard as to how long that number can be sustained for. So a better generator may operate a peak for say 10 seconds, while a lesser one may overload in less than 1 second... (I just made up those times and have no idea what is 'normal') and there is not way to tell, and none of it is advertised. So the lower sustained number is the real one to watch for.
Good video. I have a 30A generator, and was planning on installing at 30A output to connect it to the load center. I can see the advantage of making that 50A, so it's as you said, "future-proof". However for the circuit breaker that goes in the load center, am I okay with installing a 50A breaker? With a 30A generator, that should never trip; whereas if there was a 30A breaker, and there was an overload situation, I'd think it would trip, providing some extra protection. Swapping out a 30A for 50A breaker is $20, and the effort to change a breaker (minimal) That at least saves trying to repull and install 6G vs 10G wire and receptacle.
It's up to you. If it were me, I'd rate the breaker for the amperage the inlet plug can handle. The generator will still cut off on it's own if you exceed it's capabilities. Breakers are more to protect the wiring from becoming too hot and causing a fire in a wall or cable, when the available power would exceed what the wiring could handle. (the power company isn't limited to 30-40amps). But I'm not an electrician, and don't even play one on TV, so consult a professional, not a dude on the internet... :-)
Double the power output. (when using inverter generators, they sync with each other) I have several other videos covering some of these aspects. ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
Hi JayTX, if I don't need a 50A plug can I simply use the Powerhorse Parallel Cable Kit witout all the additional DIY steps you've shown in this video?
The Powerhorse cable just gives you the plugs to hook into the parallel ports on the generators. You've still got to get the power out of them. And the outlets on the front face of these units tap out at 30a, so you'd not have a means of getting two generator's worth of power, from an outlet that has a breaker that trips at one generator's worth of power. That's what the parallel kit did, taking the connection/power from both, and providing a single 50a outlet with the combined power. Some generators like these ARE equipped with a 50a plug on the front face, so when you use a cable like the Powerhorse one, you don't need a parallel kit, because the front panel does it for you. Unfortunately, the harbor freight ones are not like that, and the voltage / amperage has to be combined externally. The videos where I cover the parallel kit are on this playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
@@Texas_DIY Thanks for the reply, in my situation I do not need a 50A plug. I am powering a rather large audio system and a 30A plug will work for me but I need more power than just one of the 9,500 gen will produce which is why I am paralleling them. As I understand it, the L5-30 plug is 30A but for the L14-30 is 2 x 30A, so 60A. The L14-30 has 2 hot legs, a neutral and a ground. Each hot leg has access to 30A on opposite poles of the phase swing. The L5-30 has one hot and one neutral, so only one 30A circuit is accessed through that socket. So I should be able to use the Powerhorse kit and plug directly into the Predatopr 30A L14-30 plug - I am a neophyte and just learning and appreciate your help if I a missing something
I'm not an electrician, and don't even play one on TV... and it may be wrong, particularly with regard to the very unbalanced loads on 120, that said, this is my understanding and what I've observed on mine: The L530 is 120V. 3 pins. Hot Neutral Ground So there isn't a pin for the other leg to make it 240. it's going to get all of it's 120V from either X or Y, so you are limited to 30a of 120V, full stop. The L14-30 is 240V. 4 Pins Hot, Hot, Neutral, Ground. So you can get 240 and/or 2 legs of 120 from it. You could get 30a of 240v (which is using X and Y) or you could get 30a from X, and another separate 30a from Y (assuming there were no 240v loads). The breaker on the front panel "watches" each leg, of the L14 socket, preventing no more than 30amps from passing through any one leg at any given time. If you were running only 120V devices, you could pull 30a from X, and another 30a from Y... so yeah, 60a TOTAL of 120V, but no more than 30 from each side. So if your amplifier were 120V, and was super crazy and somehow needed MORE than 30a, your out of luck, cause 120 has to come from either x or y, and it can't be more than 30 on either single one. But, if your amp needed say 17amps, and you had lights needing 10amps, and a fog machine needing 15amps, you could split them up, and put the lights and fog machine (25a total) on X, and the Amp (17a) on Y. But you couldn't put the Amp and the fog machine together on one leg/circuit, because that would be 32a which is too much for the breaker to allow. If you had a 240V AMP, and it used 20a, (out of 30 available) that would mean you still had 10a of available 120v power on X and on Y, so yes, 20a of 120v is available in TOTAL... But you could not plug in a 120v 20a fog machine because you only had 10a left on any one leg. So wherever you plugged in the fog machine, it would be trying to pull a total of 40amps (20 + 20) from that leg, and it would trip the breaker. So merging two Predator generators directly together won't help you in this case you are describing. Because you are still limited by the max output of the breaker on that front panel. If you just used the powerhorse cable, and hooked the two together, then yes they'd sync, and your combined generators would be CAPABLE of making more than 30a, but, the breaker still won't allow more than 30a to pass through any one leg without shutting off... so you are still no better off than you were with one generator that was capable of making 30a all by itself. When you use a parallel kit on these with a 50a plug, the parallel ports on the generators are bypassing the breakers and the outlets on the front. The parallel kit still works even if you turn off all the breakers on the front panel. So it's taking the full power from each machine, and since they sync with each other, it's double the output of one machine, and since you are supplying a new plug that is not protected by a 30a breaker, and so you now have roughly 60a available (and thus you need that more substantial plug, in my case, the 50a dryer plug to handle that). (NOTE: If you are not feeding this into a food truck, or house, via an inlet and a breaker, and just running AV stuff directly from it, you REALLY need to have a breaker in the parallel kit. There should always be a breaker involved, in the videos I made on this, there is a box I called out that can do breakers, use that one if you make a kit)
You mention getting a 50 amp plug even if your generator is 30 amp. Is the adapter you mention a plug of some sort and if so is on the generator side or the home side?
You can adapt it on either side depending on what you need. If it makes more sense for you to have a 30amp cable for an RV or something, you can get that, and adapt it on the house side. If it makes more sense to run a 50amp cable for future proofing or a larger RV hook up, you can adapt it on the generator side.
Thank you for the explanation, i have a champion generator 11500 running 9,200, would it power my home , i have my inlet box 50 amp , just need my extension to hook to the generator, my electric guy say to buy 25 feet , but what wattage i buy?
9500 is the surge rating. Running normally it's pushing around 30A of 240VAC. I have several videos in this series, that go into the parallel kit I used, and how it connects to the house. It should answer all your questions and more. ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
Excellent information. One question I have is, on the 9500 the outlet is 4 prong 30 amp (x, y, neutral, ground) but the 50 amp inlet is 3 prong (X, Y, neutral/ground?) Why is that? Thanks.
It's just the way they designed the standard plugs. On the larger 50amp plug, the ground is on the outside of the barrel, so it has all 4, it's just in a different place.
Curious about this generator and the 240 volt references as I have a Westinghouse 9500 which has a 50 amp outlet and supplies 240 volts. It will run one of my AC condensers and attic blower.
A 50amp outlet doesn't mean the generator can make 50amps. That's just what the outlet is rated for. that generator will push 9500 watts continuous with 12500 peak. So it might just have enough to kick off the compressor and run it. Depends on your system and the specs. Note that's not an inverter generator though.
I have a solar system that feeds back into the grid. That complicates things. What would be the best and safest way to connect a generator backup system?
That would be a question for an electrician and/or the manufacturer of your solar system. I'm not an electrician and don't even play one on TV... So what follows is my **GUESS** The power that these make is clean enough to pass as the electric company power to your solar system. (it's actually slightly better than the power I get from my electric company). My understanding of how those solar systems work, are that they function in much the same way as the generators do. There is an inverter that matches the frequency of the incoming power, and adds to it, offsetting what you need to consume from the electric company. (the same way adding a generator in the videos, offsets the amount of power the first one needs to make). If it does not see incoming power, it shuts down, so it's not back feeding power into dead lines, and because the inverter can easily be overloaded if you draw too much and there are not reserves to make up the difference (from a battery system, or from the electric company) So if the generators feed into the system, in front of your solar inverter setup (substituting generator power in place of electric company power) it would probably "trick" your solar system into thinking that the power was back on, and it would then use the panels to contribute to the power just as it would from the electric company. You would for certain need to make sure you have an interlock so you're not feeding your power into the grid, you probably do not have one now as the solar system will turn itself off when no line power is detected. The other risk I see with this, is that you would still need sufficient generator power to handle your worst case situations when there is no light. When the solar system is on, it would help, and ultimately save generator fuel (possibly a lot, by letting them really throttle down), but wouldn't necessarily mean you would need 'less' generator power. Again, this is all 100% speculation and guessing, and should not to be considered advice or suggestions. Consult an electrician and your solar system manufacturer before doing anything.
Not sure. The main "competition" seems to be one from Duromax, and another, the GENMAX GM9000iED. All are ultimately made by the same factory, so the internals are pretty much the same with minor variations. But the factory seems to have taken and eliminated the shortcomings of both the Duromax and the Predator with the GenMax model. It's dual fuel, has a readily accessible air filter, has an oil filter, and does rear exhaust so the units can run side by side, and has the auto-start goodies.
I upgraded the wiring in mine because I started out setting everything up for 30A and had to switch it over to a 50A inlet. If you are wiring it for a 50A inlet (even if you only ever plan on connecting a 30A generator) you should absolutely make the wiring suitable for 50A as well. The whole idea behind using the 50A inlet is to future proof so you can add a generator (or upgrade) without having to rewire your house. The difference in cost between a 30A and a 50A isn't that much. We're probably talking about $30 or 40 total... In hindsight, I can't see any reason to go with only a 30A inlet, unless it's something like a small RV that literally can't handle any more.
So to add a generator to an existing electric panel and have the interlock work properly, the generator circuit breaker needs to be at the top of the panel. Did you have any issues moving the other breakers down to create a space? I have several more breakers than you do (120 and 240), I'd have to move a lot of breakers.
It depends on the design of the panel. Sometimes the main breaker is on the bottom for example. You shouldn't have to shuffle stuff too much, just trade places with something else in the box. In my case the top right slot was occupied, so I just moved that breaker to an empty spot and put the input breaker in it's place.
@@Texas_DIY thanks for the reply. I'll give that a shot. I'd hate to relabel all of them. I just hope it has enough slack to move down about 10 inches.
Jason, love your generator videos. Your predator has “Neutral bonded to frame”. Did you have to modify that to be able to hook up to your 50amp plug and feed your panel? I was told you cannot feed a “Neutral bonded to frame” generator directly to your panel. I have a new inverter generator coming and want to know before I supply power from it into my outside generator plug and into my panel. Thanks Jason
I'm not too worried about it. And word is that if it's a portable generator / temp hook up (which these are) it's ok to keep it bonded to frame. But if it's permanent (like a whole home auto-backup gen) then you're supposed to not have it bonded in there. But for people that really want to or are concerned about it, I've seen videos where the frame bonding can be fairly easily disconnected. On the main panel at the grounding post, on the rear there are two cables. One of which is the frame grounding cable that can be unscrewed.
I think typically people will either add a main breaker, or, add a side breaker like I did for the inlet, only that will be the incoming power. That's less than ideal though because depending on your service amperage that side breaker may not be enough. In all likelihood you'd probably need an electrician to come and add a proper breaker or additional box to act as the breaker.
There are some youtube videos. As I understand it, on the back of the electrical panel, where the ground peg/post is, there are two cables that attach to it. One of which is neutral. Disconnect that, and it will no longer connect neutral to ground. I didn't bother, as it's a temp hookup, and not really considered a critical thing unless it's permanently attached.
I recently added a switch to mine after disconnecting the neutral so I could use with and without a neutral bond. You could also disconnect and make a plug that went into a 120V outlet on the unit that bonds neutral and ground. Even if temporary, I highly recommend only having the neutral and ground bonded in your main breaker box.
@@Texas_DIY Jason I have a duromax 9000ih which sorta the same as the predator 9500. Duromax has put two white wires on one terminal so I don't know should I just take the two wire off the ground post or what.I wonder if I should connect to my house without doing anything?
1) 240 volt generators are fairly common. 2) You can bridge your 2 legs if you only have 120 available and the your entire house will be hot but your 240 Volt items will not work...
240V *inverter* generators are not-so-common, regular 240V generators are all over the place. One could feed 120 into both legs, but it might do very unpredictable things to 240v appliances, those breakers should be turned off if one goes this direction. I wanted to be able to live relatively normally on gen power, so that's why I went the direction I did.
@@Texas_DIY I switched my house to basically all gas (stove, clothes dryer and water heater). I did a lot of research and a little testing before I bridged my legs.. My concern is more about the amount of fuel I use in the generators. I would rather run the small one (120v only) unless I need the bigger one 240v so I made a pigtail with bridge in it for the small unit. No changes at the panel. Everything else is the same as yours except I made my own interlock slider plate. I also converted my generators to propane so I don't have to store gasoline and I plumbed them into the house propane line. I converted all of my lighting (inside and outside) to off-grid low-volt battery-solar. I am currently testing an auto-start, on-off timer for the generator so it will run for 30 minutes every 4 hours to keep the refrigerator cool so I can be away for days and not worry about my food going bad or wasting fuel when not needed
I know of only one transfer switch that doesn't accept 240v. It's designed for powering a furnace or single hardwired appliance. All homes in the USA are split face 240v. You are using an inappropriate sized breaker. Remember breakers are designed to protect the wire. Also the intake is way undersized for that generator shed. The fans should be at the top pulling the hot air out in a way the generators are designed to be cooled.
I designed the enclosure to augment the generator's existing cooling fans. Foam strips seal against the generator, such that each unit is exhausting out (both the engine exhaust, and the cooling heat exhaust) this makes the generators themselves pull air through the enclosure, while the DC automotive fans augment them. (this also prevents the exhaust from tripping the CO sensor in the generators). So the generators are pulling air through and cooling normally, so the only added heat is what might radiate out from the plastic generator enclosures... which are pretty well sealed and cooled by design. In my testing, airflow is quite sufficient, I ran them with the lid closed for 4+ hours in the peak TX summer heat with temp probes all over the inside, including the top of the enclosure. The temps were always within a few degrees of ambient.
I built a parallel kit for the generators. I covered it in some of the other videos. This is the link to the playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
How far can i install the inlet from the panel. My main panel is inside the garage and i would like to install the inlet in the backyard which is about 60ft.
Running it that distance won't be an issue, you just need the right wire for the load. Google "wire length calculator" (first result for me), there you can find a tool to help figure how what gauge of wire you'll need for the run.
@@Texas_DIY Thanks. In case anyone is interested, I will be running four 6 gauge 45 ft wires in conduit. from the main panel to the 50 amp gen inlet box(Reliance PBN50). 50 amp breaker. I have installed Easy Start Micro Air 368 on my 4 ton ac which brought the amps down from 90-95 to 30. I have predator 9500 Inv gen. Will update once i am done with inlet setup and run the whole house with gen. Thanks
If you're looking for a hybrid (natural gas / gasoline) unit, check out the GENMAX GM9000iED. It's the same manufacturer as the Duromax and the Predator, but with all the shortcomings of each fixed. Rear exhaust, has an oilfilter, the air filter is actually accessible, nice displays, natural gas option built-in, etc. These can probably be converted, but it would be a hassle and a lot of time to do so.
great video but those 2 generators cost 5200 after tax and a 22kw generac with transfer switch is 5800. buy the time you built your enclosure and everything you have more in it than a whole house generac setup with an automatic transfer switch and more power. why did you go this route?
That ~$5200 buys you the actual unit. It still has to be installed, and some sort of pad made (or poured) for it to sit on, and, it needs propane / natural gas, which means plumbing for that. Now you're getting into the $10k ballpark. Then, to make things worse, in my case, the whole neighborhood is electric only, so that means I'd have to lease a large propane tank (The grill sized ones only last a short time and will freeze up). And then trench / plumb from where ever that ended up going, over to the generator. It just wasn't in the cards for my home. And there is also the old school coil generator vs. the inverter generator argument. Though with a really large coil generator, it's not as bad because the power fluctuations don't slow it down as much. But you still will have a significant difference in power quality. It would be really really nice to just have it auto-start, and engage.. and self exercise from time to time. Mine is fully manual. (I address a few of those cost questions, power quality, and reasoning for the decision in a few of the other videos in the series.) ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
Yea 5800 for 20kw generator and transfer switch. I already had a 500 gallon propane tank buried in the yard and it going right next to it. My electrician is gonna charge me 500 bucks and the sacrete for the pad is 65 bucks. Leaving only the copper line to run the unit which I can do myself. All in I'm have 6500 in it. But im not saying all this to argue im just literally about to order the generator for the house and came across your video. Honestly questioning what's best. What do you think is the power difference between the standard generator and an inverter ?
Looked it up, and I'm liking that one a lot. They seem to be taking the approach of the "powerhorse" generators that I got the cable from to make my parallel kit. But instead of a parallel kit, they just have outlets on the front face that are capable of handling more wattage than the generator can make. So when you link another one to it, you can just plug into the front face of either one to get the additional power. It has the 50A dryer plug, the 30A plug, a nice control display panel, dual fuel, pushbutton start as well as remote start... for the same price that HF has recently raised the cost of the 9500 up to. And it exhausts out of the rear, so you can have them side by side if desired. Nice. They rate it for a shorter run time, but that just may be marketing. The gas tank is the same size, and the engine is almost exactly the same size (458cc vs 459cc). The surge is lower, but the running amps are about the same as well. So apart from an extended warranty you can get from HF to do a return... Just from the Amazon page and the specs, I see nothing but good from this Genmax model. Nice find.
@@Texas_DIY apparently the warranty is 1 year but you can get an extended warranty at Amazon of 3 or 4 years. I head that the manufacturer of the Genmax is the same one of HF Predator and Duromax. Also. The Genmax has a forced air exhaust, easy access to air filter and a oil filter. And like you said the exhaust is on the back. Seems a good buy is just an unknown brand to me.
@@JavierRivera It wouldn't surprise me if it was the exact same engine. It looks like they identified pretty much all the shortcomings of the HF and the Duromax, and made their own solution. It's more expensive than the HF unit was... but since HF raised the price, it's all that for about the same cost. Pretty impressive, if it has an oil filter and easy access to the air filter as you say, I think currently, that just might be the "ultimate" portable generator.
Genmax apparently manufacturers predator and Duromax. They seem very similar except 50 amp. I have a 50 amp inlet wired 4 wire 6 gauge by my electrician to a panel that runs certain breakers with interlock. My question is if I plug in the 50 amp from generator to inlet would I expect to get 240 volts 7200 watts 30 amps running power? I ask because Genmax says I would only get 3500 watts, but not sure they actually understand my question/language.
@@wileypinkerton2300 you will get 7200watt 50amp. 4 wires to a 50amp breaker means L1 and L2 with ground a neutral. L1&2 are 120v 30amp each one. 120 X 30 = 3600 x 2 = 7200w
Your generator location seems too close to the house and may lead to Carbon Monoxide in your living space. My breaker box is on the side of my garage and is as far from the living structure as possible, so that's where the generator sits. Exhaust has to be considered with any generator use to prevent asphyxiating whoever is home. It should never be close to windows , in a garage, or basement. I'm currently looking into changing my generator from gasoline to natural gas or a hybrid. Our natural gas service has never been interrupted in my memory so I would like to use that as the primary fuel with gasoline as the secondary one.
If you're looking for a hybrid (natural gas / gasoline) unit, check out the GENMAX GM9000iED. It's the same manufacturer as the Duromax and the Predator, but with all the shortcomings of each fixed. Rear exhaust, has an oilfilter, the air filter is actually accessible, nice displays, natural gas option built-in, etc. Regarding the airflow, you're not wrong to have concern. In the past a I ran a small generator on my front porch, (open air on one side) and could actually feel/tell the CO basically directly entering the house, and had to shut it down. On the back porch, the awning is open on 3 sides, and the exhaust blows away from the house combined with the generator's heat exhaust blows with it. And the awning attaches well above the windows. In addition, I also have a industrial style fan, and blower style fan, and a ceiling fan out there that can circulate the air to help blow things away if the ambient wind is really low. And if I'm in a situation where they need to run long term, the whole box is on wheels, and I can move it forward to the edge of the awning if I really need to. (but it hasn't ever come to that). Lastly, the units themselves each have CO sensors that will shut down the generators if levels get too high, and I have pretty good airflow moving through the box. So the setup so far has worked really well. My neighborhood is 100% electric, no natural gas. And I didn't want to deal with leasing and installing large propane tanks. But if you're looking for a hybrid model, check out the GM9000iED I mentioned, it's looking pretty good.
Short and long answer National Electrical Code wise. Short answer is yes, the frame ground and the neutral should be floating back to the service panel since that is the first point of disconnect and that is usually where the utility neutral and grounding electrode is bonded at. However if the neutral is floating at the generator, the 120 volt GFCI receptacles will not work since there is no ground for it to reference to. If this was a permanent installation, then frame ground and neutral needs to be floating. I own a Predator 9500 and thought about unbonding it, but decided against it since I will be using it for other than powering my house when the grid goes down. Plus, tracking the wiring diagram is a pain and if done wrong will cause a potential shock hazard with serious injury or death. Do I need to install a ground rod and bond it to the generator is another confusion. If your generator is the only source of power feeding to (i.e. towable camper, RV, off-grid cabin, etc), short answer is YES. NO, when using a properly installed generator inlet to a home; the grounding/bonding is established by the electrical service panel via the inlet cable. Article 250 of the National Electrical Code is a big rabbit hole that can go on forever depending on the application that it applies to and the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ).
Yeah, rabbit hole is right. I did see another video (don't remember who it was now to credit them) where they removed the front panel, and found that there was two cables attaching to the rear of the ground screw that protrudes through. One of those two, was the frame ground. So there is a "relatively" not too crazy way of unbonding it. I guess I need someone to explain to me how / why it's a big deal. Everything is grounded, even the generators are when they're connected to the home with the cables... so I'm having difficulty understanding why it would matter.
@@Texas_DIY I just searched for: Mike Holt Grounding - Safety Fundamentals (1hr:13min:19sec) explains it a little better on the subject. He also has dives deep into Grounding and Bonding, but that is 6+ hours on the subject. Paraphrasing it a bit. Electricity originates from the source and returns back to its source. Neutral wire carries the unbalanced load from (X) and (Y). The ground wire carries the full fault current back to its source thus tripping the upstream breaker to shut down the show. Floating neutral at the generator ensures that the unbalanced current between (X) and (Y) goes back to the source. Electricity does some strange things under certain conditions; if it was permanent installation then I would consider floating the neutral and frame ground at the generator to bring it up to code. Temporary hookup for a few hours until the utility gets restored is perfectly fine.
@@felaxchow207 Great answers! I've read many articles and still wasn't sure. I've converted my 9500 to floating, but it raises concern for non home hookup use. Primary use will be hooking to a power inlet box with interlock kit, however is it a safer option to convert back to bonded at the generator for extension cord use and like mentioned short power out hook ups?
Meh... I'm not big on begging to "ring that bell" or "Smashing that like button"... or even worse, coming up with the dumbest expression I can manage for an over-the-top thumbnail. I figure if people like the content and find it useful, that's my "pay it forward" for all the stuff I've learned here.
@@Texas_DIY you have a nice voice and cadence. I’m sure there are better ways to make money than try YT. But if you ever develop the passion - may be worth a shot!
Transfer switches or interlocks are things, but they're not required for temporary powering the home if you're too broke, or need power NOW know this exception exists in the National Electric Code: 702.5 Transfer Equipment A: _Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply conductors._ Qualified doesn't mean certifications or degrees, it means you know what the heck you're doing "has been trained on the safety risks involved" - keep the kids away. Lock your panel so nobody can turn the street back on and abide by the exception's requirements.
Just be careful. Lots of people don't have a firm understanding of what's happening and why, and thus will have a greater likelihood of doing something wrong, or out of order and hurting someone or something. If you're not sure, play it safe.
This is hands down the most intelligent, thought out, well produced instructional video on this subject I have found! It took me a week of internet searching and video browsing to learn what this one video provided. Congratulations and you have a well-earned sub. P.S. Would you think about a video of the blueprint and construction of your generator cabinet? It is top notch!
Thank You! It was kind of the same for me when I was trying to figure out the best way to go about all of this. I decided I'd make a few videos and save people some of the pain and mistakes I made, along the way.
Your video was the only helpful that I have found. Thank you. I have realized my limits and that I must be humble to hire professional help. Thank you.
If you've ever changed a light switch, or added an electrical outlet to your home, it's not much worse than that. But know your limits. Particularly as there is 200+ AMPS of 240VAC power in that box that can't be turned off.
FINALLY. A VIDEO EXPLAINING THE TYPE OF CONNECTORS!! As a DIYer, there are so many listing on Amazon and ebay for generator cords and inlet boxes, that i really had no idea which one works for my generator. Also, there are so many videos out there explainig how to install the inlet box, interlock, but they NEVER go over which types of cables will work or which type of inlet box you need. THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!!!!
You’ve made an excellent video here with lots of good advice. One step that is missing here is the requirement for a tie down on the generator breaker at the interlock location. Electric code requires that any breaker which is supplying power to the panel bus must be tied down in place such that removing the panel cover alone does not allow the breaker to be removed. There must be something else holding the breaker in place other than the panel cover. Luckily for you the Eaton CH type breakers have a part specifically for this purpose. It’s a single white piece of plastic and one screw. I think this is the part: Eaton Cutler Hammer CH125RB Breaker Retaining Hold Down Kit
@@Texas_DIY Your video was so careful to try and stay true to electrical code, including things such as using a fancy plate (interconnect lock out), that I would not be suggesting a zip tie. Electrical code (NEC) covers itself by saying, "As intended by the manufacturer." Whether it's using a drywall screw to hold your electrical duplex in place, or the height of a ceiling fan outside under a patio cover, this covers it because the manufacturer of the drywall screw meant it for drywall, and the fan instructions will say, "Minimum 7' from leading edge of blade to the ground," Hence, a zip tie instructions will not spell out a use as an electrical tie down. Just pony up the extra $$ for the Eaton kit, and the off chance code compliance ever takes an interest, you're more likely to come out ok. IDK, just my take on it. If I'm spending a couple grand on enclosure for generator, generator(s), conduit, etc.... I'm not going to suddenly get cheap over a few bucks. I used to work at Home Depot in the electrical department and it never ceased to amaze me, "I only need 3 conduit connectors, but this bag comes with 5". I'm thinking, "If you're quibbling over chump change or having 2 extra connectors at the end of the job, maybe you shouldn't be doing your electrical work." My favorite was those who said, "I don't want to run 10 gauge for my 30 amp. It's too expensive. Can I run 14?" Sure if you want your house to make the news."
Excellent video. Just a couple of additional things to consider. A 30amp unit may easily handle a whole house ac IF something similar to an EasyStart by micro-air is attached to the ac unit. On my 3 ton unit the EasyStart reduced the starting current down to ~ 25 amps (run current is 11 amps). Start current rating on my generator is ~37 amps. Another thing to consider is whether the generator has a bonded neutral or a floating neutral. For residential hook-ups, the NEC code requires a floating neutral where generators that are used as stand alone units or connected to an RV require a bonded neutral. Many of the bigger gens have a bonded neutral. So verify (by physical measurement, the manual may not be correct) which neutral set-up is used on the chosen generator and how easy it is to convert, if required. Again, excellent video.
Yup. I have a few videos in the series, and one that deals specifically with the softstart. It's such an amazing game changer for central AC (or AC in and RV) on generator power. I have the same running amps, but your numbers seem better than mine were for the start. (I have a heat pump and it's been said they don't benefit quite as much for reasons I don't fully understand) The neutral thing comes up in comments. The general consensus is that with portable generators, it's no biggie to have the neutral bonded. But for permanently connected backup generators you should. I've not bothered to make changes to mine, but word is that if you want to, there is a cable directly behind the ground post on the front panel that can be unscrewed from the back of that terminal, and that will do the trick. The other videos can be seen here: ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
As part of my research regarding connecting a portable generator to my home, I have viewed many, many, video tutorials, some of them good, and many of them not so good. I would have to rate your video presentation as the best that I have seen. Your explanation is clear, your instructions are accurate, and you include a video list of all the items needed. You present a good balance between text and visuals. You show the finished project FIRST. You should consider training RU-vidrs on the art of RU-vid presentations. Well Done, Sir!!
I kind of made them as the "anti-youtube" videos. Plus, no click-bait thumbnails with ridiculous facial expressions. :-) Glad you liked it, I appreciate the kind words.
Below I'll include the full playlist of the series. I'm using a home made parallel kit to tie two units together for the 50a outlet. But that same cable I'm using can plug into a single 30a connection with an adapter if needed. But it would have half the capacity vs. using two units. ru-vid.com/group/PLzoNthJzzMFQ877vyCfoc53oDQqGFAIKN
Working on doing this now after Ian, while it would be so nice to have 240v the Predator will use about 10 gallons of fuel a day, and in real disaster situations fuel can be scarce, and going out to get it is a major pain. So I decided to get two of the 4500w smaller generators with the parallel kit. I can run just one for basics like lights, fans, fridge etc (made it thru 5 days w/o power with a tiny 2000w doing this) but if say we want to watch TV, or I need to get on the computer I have the option to kick on the 2nd generator to get 50amp worth of power if needed. I also have the 2 is one, one is none backup in case of generator failure. I assume from all my research over the last several days, I just needed to ensure I do not have any MBEC's (I don't as far as I can tell) and it would be a good idea to turn off the breaker for all my 240v appliances as I will no longer be sending out of phase power while powering both sides of the box with 120v. The 4500w generator runs 14 hours off 2.3gallons of fuel vs the larger generators using about double that. So 1 5 gallon gas can will get me thru 24 hours no issues. I don't see myself using any of the 240v appliances during an emergency situation, propane stove/grill for cooking instead of the stove, fans instead of AC, suck it up for cold showers, and do laundry after the disaster is over (or if really needed the washer is 120v and line dry cloths). Since you seem to have done much of this research, does this sound like a good plan? Also HF has been increasing prices a lot the last couple of years that generator is now $2400, but they do have a VERY similar 8750w model for only $1300, runs kind of loud though at 75db, that is another slight advantage to the smaller generators only 61db vs the 9000w Predator at 67db.
You can do that. Turning off the 240/220 breakers would be best. I'm not sure what would happen with them if the same phase were fed into both legs. (better "off" than fried) When running in Eco mode, these things will throttle down quite a bit and use fuel proportional to the output. Unless the output is so low it's idle, in which case, just turn one off to save fuel. But yeah, larger engines will in general use large amounts of fuel. But if you're willing to make those compromises, it seems like a fair option. Also check out the GENMAX GM9000iED. It's the same manufacturer as the Duromax and the Predator, but with all the shortcomings of each fixed. Rear exhaust, has an oilfilter, the air filter is actually accessible, nice displays, natural gas option built-in, etc. Might be a good fit.
@@Texas_DIY Thanks for the quick reply, I might be in a bit of a bind actually. My indoor panel does not have a main breaker to use with a interlock, by the meter I have a single switch for the mains with nowhere to install a breaker to injest power from the generator. So that leaves me having to maybe use a transfer switch setup, harder to install, more cost. Still cheaper than using something like the generlink. Ideally with how hard fuel can be to come by in a real emergency I would prefer 2x 4500w generators to a single 9000w so I can have the extra power on demand if needed, but use less fuel when not needed, also having the extra generator if a failure happens, but it seems there are no 4500w 240v generators, and it's starting to look like the best way to hook them up for me requires 240v.
Awesome video! I wish I had the space for the predator and knew about it beforehand! I bought a Champion 7000 watt inverter generator but it doesn't have an parallel plug for me to hookup two together, so I can't get the 15k power that you got. I was reading the comments of your other video and I agree that trying to make a parallel cable from the L14-30 outlet could be dangerous, so I don't think I'll be buying a 2nd champion generator to hook together... On a small note, did you secure your backfeed breakers to the breaker box? There's a NEC code article that states you have to. I didn't know and I made a video talking about it and fixing it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hlq4DMMP-vQ.html. Keep up the good work!
Cool. You've got a very similar breaker box to mine. (You're not too far from me, we're both on PEC) You took the more very nice and classy route. I've seen others handle that requirement by simply using a ziptie as the "additional fastener". I personally did not do that, but might add the zip tie at some point. :-)
@@Texas_DIY Yeah, we both got Eaton's. I think I have the newer plug-on neutral one as my house was built in 2020. Calling the interlock kit an expensive metal plate thingie is very correct! Back to tying things down - yes, the code doesn't say how it needs to be secured, just that it needs to be secured, so I have heard that zip-ties count as fulfilling the code. One last thing I noticed - NM-B wires for the generator inlet box outdoors is also against code, even through conduit. I'm not an electrician though, but from all the internet research I've done, I believe it is required to either use UF-B or THHN/THWN individual wires through conduit. I went with UF-B myself - it was tough getting it through the conduit but it worked out in the end. diy.stackexchange.com/questions/191851/generator-power-inlet-box-location diy.stackexchange.com/questions/30436/can-i-use-indoor-romex-in-buried-outdoor-conduit
