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Thanks , i was looking for something like this . I am new to this kind of stuff and was looking for the possibilities and dangers of building a small ( test ) system . Now i have to convert it to the standards in my country and the available equipment that i can get .
I'm glad you liked it. You can read my quick start guide on my website. These are the most important articles that I have written to get you started: cleversolarpower.com/diy-off-grid-solar-system-components/
As a solar enthusiast and a beginner in solar technology, this lesson of yours became so helpful to me. I watched it several times to learn your methods and your calculations. I subscribed to your channel. Thank you for teaching us a good lesson. Thank you for being so simple in your teachings. Appreciate it so much.
I'm just a beginner. How will I connect six solar panels of 130 Watts, 19.1Mpv, and 23.4 Voc with a 100/50A Mppt and a six lead acid batteries.Then I have a 12V/ 1500Watts inverter. Your assistance is much appreciated.
I would wire 3 of your panels in series, and the other 3 in series to create 2 strings of 3 panels. Then wire the 2 strings in parallel. This combination would have 70.2Voc, 57.3Vmp, 13.6Imp which should be quite comfortable for your 100V/50A MPPT charge controller.
I just saw your videos 2 days ago. Your simple approach at teaching is great and I subscribed immediately. Your videos are educative and very practical. Thanks a lot
It sounds like you are saying that a 1000W/12V inverter draws 83A from the battery. What you mean is that the inverter can handle a max load of 83A, correct?
I don't quite understand the 30A fuse calculation: if the controller max current is 25A, how can a 30A fuse protect against overloading, 30A is well *over* the max allowable current?
A fuse doesn't protect against overloading, it protects the wire from catching fire. That's the main purpose of fuses and breakers. So we have to select a fuse that is lower than the max current the wire can carry.
Cool! Maybe you can help me. I have dual batteries in my rv, I hooked up a battery monitor which required a shunt between the two. I bought a 100w panel and a renogy solar controller. Do I just hook up my controller positive to positive BEFORE the shunt and negative AFTER the shunt like my battery monitor is wired?
I appreciate no obnoxious music and your efforts to repeat the important information. Nice ! I have the 60amp mppt controller. Can I unite in series two panels that aren't exactly alike? I have one panel that's 110 watt @ 19volt. I'm considering purchasing from Amazon the ZOUPW 100watt @ 20 volt panel. Do you highly advise a circuit breaker switch for me? Which is the best please?? I disconnect my mc4 panel every night. All this is for my little travel trailer RV camper. Thank you
Hello sir and thank you for this video but I need your help. I have on my boat two 400 watt panels with (38v VOC) and (15A ISC) each connected in series and I'm going to connect them to a victron 150/70 TR charge controller with a victron 3000 watt inverter. My batteries are two 12 volt 250Ah Lead acid in parallel. The distance from the panels to the charge controller is 15m and the distance from the charge controller to the battery is 5m . Can you please help me on which cables to use from the panels to the charge controller and the charge controller to the battery and also what fuses I will need. your help will be much appreciated. thank you
Great video, easy explanations. Now I wish you did the same thing only with a solar generator too. Two 100w solars to a Bluetti ac180 and a battery. Maybe you have a video out there like that ? Thanks
Add a 25% safety margin! If a 200W solar panel has a Voc of 22V and the system voltage is 12V, the maximum charge current is 16.67A. Adding a 25% safety margin, the minimum required charge controller rating is 20.83A, so a 20A or 30A charge controller would work.
Again clear explanation. I'm gonna replace my 24v system 230ah lead acid with lifep04. I can choose option 1 ( 2x12 100ah) or option 2(1 x 24v 100ah) Are there pro’s and cons? There is a small price difference and option one has the benefit of risk reduction; when one battery fails you have one left. Are there more pro’s and cons?
With one 24V battery you need less wires. The risk reduction doesn't help you because you will be left with a 12V battery on a 24V system. If you want risk reduction, then you can use 24V 50Ah.
You can use whatever breaker size you want. 16A-63A, because the main reason for this breaker is to disconnect the solar panels. The wires don't need to be protected because the solar panels cannot generate more power than the wire can handle.
You do a fantastic tutorial for solar newbies like me. Many thanks! Can you recommend a high quality 30 amp fuse? I don't want to buy something on Amazon that may be a cheap build. Thank you!
A hybrid inverter has a minimum input voltage and a maximum input voltage. Check the manual of the inverter to find the range. It's individual for every model.
