Sofya teaches the crew how to do coordination dynos, and Eric jumps in to show his skills as well. Instagram: abrahamssonen cordiclimbs sofya_yokoyama teodorwik eric.karlsson89 Music from Musicbed.com
Emil's last go on the boulder after succeeding the 360 move -> total rush of happiness 😇. Glad to see Eric spinning around like a dervish plus Cordi and Teo managing the dyno so fast.
Watching this actually helped me nail a dyno to a toe hook catch I've been working on!! Thank you for the amazing content and thank you to Sofya for being such a great coach 😊
I've been practicing dynos a lot at my local gym. Love the relaxed vibe of the video and the ending was so fun to watch. Great explanation of the process. Thank you!
Nice video! 👍 What I think Cordelia did which could helped her is that before successful try she checked how her body should be positioned at the end of the whole coordination move (9:20) and also she did half of the move from the ground (9:24) which gave her some muscle memory 😊 I’m doing it often when I learn now moves and it is really helpful 👌
One thing that I think a lot of people make the mistake of doing especially on overhung moves like this is they try to get close to the wall too early and end up falling away too soon. If you adjust your angle of attack on the wall you can give yourself a bit more time before falling off. That's why Cordelia's bent knees helped in her last go.
Cordelia got the speed/timing right on her successful attempt, and also her body was much further around the arete. This meant her foot stopped the swing momentum at almost the same time as she grabbed the handhold (which allowed her hands to stay solid on the hold) - rather than trying to catch the hold first and the foot being an afterthought once the move was already out of control.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think Cordi was putting her feet lower and further out as she progressed. Even the last shot before she got it looked like the right foot landed about the top of the chalk smear on the volume, which is where her left went when she got it. That meant her weight was further over her feet, and she wasn't pushing out so much on that last leap. I guess it also means she was almost running into the wall. Anyway, well done to crushers Cordi and Teo, coach Sofya, and comic relief Eric and Emil. Note Eric comes first, because he wins the comic relief trophy ahead of Emil!
From the perspective of the camera, it looks like once they latch the hold they're pushing too much with the left foot which is forcing the hand to let go
