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How to Create an Authentic Tiffany Verdi Gris Patina with JAX products

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There is very little information available as to how to best achieve an authentic Tiffany Verdi Gris (blue/green) patina……even in the directions of the very products made to complete this process! Through much trial and error, I have developed a technique that delivers predictable results. I hope that this video will help those of you in the stained glass community that work with the copper foil technique and are looking to take their patina skills to the next level!

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26 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 21

@speedmom1702 7 месяцев назад

You used such gorgeous glass!! It turned out so gorgeous! Interesting base. I loved the music you used as well!

@BlooStorm1 3 месяца назад

WOW! Love the filigree!

@charleyf.3758 7 месяцев назад

loved your video and am doing my very first lamp!

@DavidJohnson-en4jt 7 месяцев назад

Good luck!

@scubaguy5455 7 месяцев назад

Thank you so much!

@neloleon 10 месяцев назад

Thank you very much. I'm going to try this on my next lamp shade. Beautiful work btw. Cheers.

@DavidJohnson-en4jt 8 месяцев назад

Thanks, Nelo!

@christopherlyons7613 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for the vid. A couple of questions. First, do you pre-patina the inside of the Filigree before tacking it in place? If you don't it's hard to believe it will get a consistent patina look on the inside. That may not be necessary but would like to keep it from looking blotchy. What have you seen? How do you minimize puddling of the patina chemicals under the filigree? As you apply your multiple chemicals seems like it would tend to puddle under the filigree and not give a consist look. Also seems like this may lead to puddling of patina under the filigree and be hard to clean up. Have seen any of this? If so, how would you clean that up? Thanks.

@user-tr5mo7em5c 9 месяцев назад

Dave ... great video ... as a dermatologist I enjoy the hobby as well. Do you clean the tacky wax off the inside of your lamp with acetone or isopropyl alcohol. I have quite. bit of Linns glass and was near his place near Gainesville years ago.

@DavidJohnson-en4jt 8 месяцев назад

Hi William, sorry for the slow reply……I don’t check this page often and I don’t get notifications on comments. After I have done the soldering of the inside of the shade, I will either put my shade in an oven at about 225 degrees (this works well for shades up to 18” diameter) or I use a heat gun to liquify the wax and then wipe it off with microfiber towels. You may need to do areas two or three times but it does a great job getting the waxy residue off of the glass. Going over everything with a very fine steel wool will get any remaining wax film.

@emilyblau-es5di Год назад

Do you have a video of how you did the beautiful "fin work" on the fish?

@DavidJohnson-en4jt Год назад

The filagree that lays over the glass can be purchased many places that sell supplies for the Odyssey lamp system. I get mine from The Stained Glass Workshop. SGW.net

@christopherlyons7613 11 месяцев назад

Hi. How do you cut out your Odyssey patterns? Do you use patterns shears? I seem to get better results (closer fit between pieces) using normal scissors and cutting in the middle of the lines between the pieces. I may have to grind to fit for a few pieces but overall I feel I get a better overall fit with narrower solder lines. Interested what you and others are doing. Thanks.

@speedmom1702 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for this. I love verdigris finishes and had been wondering how I could get this patina. Not many people use it, usually copper or black. My question is, do you need to use the brown between the copper and verdigris?

@DavidJohnson-en4jt 7 месяцев назад

No…..it is not necessary to use the JAX brown darkener prior to the JAX green. You will still get a nice Verdi Gris finish…..just a bit lighter in the “background color. I’ve done it both ways and I slightly prefer it with the brown prior to the green

@speedmom1702 7 месяцев назад

@@DavidJohnson-en4jt Thank you for answering and your opinion!

@Jslav-jj2xq Год назад

Well done, sir...for a non-Buckeye dentist! This is the same technique I learned from Joe porcelli except the Brown shoe polish, which we are using now. We will incorporate the final carnuba wax for next project. Glad you added to final lit lamp, very nice indeed. The logo??? How did you manage that? Trash can seems wise as well. I tried small scale electroplating with limited success so I went back to your technique. Still struggling unfortunately. Finished the laburnum recently and just used black patina for simplicity. How did you learn not to give them away? Gave away 4 already. Any videos on soldering? Never looks good close up but yours look really nice. Thank for your time sharing this technique

@DavidJohnson-en4jt Год назад

Dr. Jeff, Yes……..I spent eight years at TSUN and have been cheering for TTUN for as long as I can remember. I am, however, very open minded and have several good friends of the Buckeye persuasion. My son even married one! As we share a profession and a love for glass, I don’t mind divulging some of my tricks and secrets. I have given away seven lamps so far. Four of them were some of my “early” lamps….they were pretty good considering I was new to the craft. The last three were bonafide art quality lamps. Fortunately, two of those three are with my kids and will stay in the family. The other one……oh well…..I hope that it is well cared for! In regards to my logo/signature, I’m pretty proud of that. It was an idea that came to me in the middle of the night……just like the garbage can😅. Because of all of the inquiries that I received in my Facebook groups, I did post it to RU-vid as well and perhaps you’ve already discovered that. If not, go back to the video that you have already watched and click on my “channel” to get to the signature video. As for your soldering dilemma, have you tried buying a new tip? That would be where I would start. I probably replace my tip after two shades. If they are big shades, I may use a new one for each shade. You CAN solder with an old tip but you CANNOT solder efficiently. I hope this helps you, Jeff……Go Blue!!🏈😎

@Jslav-jj2xq Год назад

@@DavidJohnson-en4jt I'll check it out, thx. I've been buying supplies from Jerry at stained glass workshop on long island, always helpful. Just got a Weller 100 soldering iron with 2 different temp. Tips. Can't wait to try it. Recently finished 3 12" sculptural chestnut lamps, Paul Christ design. Rewarding but challenging. Was fortunate to have some Schlitz, original 1980s uroborus, and Lins glass left over from prior projects. I was never a fan of the goldfish lamp but yours may change my.mind. nice choice of glass. Thanks again, Jeff

@DavidJohnson-en4jt Год назад

@@Jslav-jj2xq Hopefully, that new Weller will do the trick. I’m all about “hotter is better”. Jerry is great…..I’ve done a lot of business with him. Don’t rule out the Fish shade…..it’s a lot of fun! This was my second Fish. The other one was the one shade that I really loved that is no longer in the family. Fortunately, I prefer my new one🙂

@Jslav-jj2xq 2 месяца назад

Hey David, I can't find the goldfish mold anywhere, Jerry is out as well. Any chance you'd consider selling, or renting yours? I think Jerry has the filigree and pattern in stock on his website. Just finished 2nd 22 inch dragonfly, found some brass wool and used to fill spaces. Worked pretty well. Thanks in advance...Jeff