This is great! I was saving each file individually . Then I’d bring them all in, open each and then I’d merge to HDR Pro from the script. This is a great way of doing it. What a time saver!!!
I've only ever used ACR. All of these features have been present but they have made them work better. The new aesthetic is great. You can do spot healing brush adjustments similar to linear and radial adjustments. It's really nice.
@@WanderFeetChronicles I have been on a round the world cycling adventure since August 2015. Crosse the Americas, Africa and now doing Europe into Asia if borders open up..
I've found the Crop tool doesn't work as good as it used to I go to crop it's very slow bracketing the crop and the straightening tool in there isn't level with the + it's a little bit below it
What in the world is that creature walking next to the child???? On another note, I notice that you're using a Canon EOS 5D. I'm currently using a Canon EOS Rebel T3i, and I'm getting noise at a low ISO of 400. I understand ISO, AV, Shutter Speed, lighting, etc.; but I'm still getting few professional quality images. I understand I need a lot more practice and I have a lot to learn; but I've also wondered if my photography would improve with a full frame camera. Do you feel the Canon EOS 5D is a good entry level professional camera?
@@colinsouthern Ahhh! I finally found this reply! Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply, Colin! This is the best answer I've gotten; and you hit the nail on the head. The images I've had problems with are under-exposed and I am trying to fix them in post production. These are primarily outdoor settings with moderate to fast action; and they're being shot at a distance in which a flash is ineffective. I have two lenses - a Canon EFS 18-55mm Macro 0.25m/0.8ft and a Canon EF 75-300mm 1:4-5:6. They're both kit lenses. I get the worst noise with the zoom lens. In some cases, I'm moving around a lot; and in others my subjects are. That's why I didn't use a tripod and shot at the slowest speed I dare for handheld (1/80). While I didn't feel good about it, I just chose to underexpose and fix the exposure in production. Obviously, that is not an option. In the future, I'll try some of your suggestions. In some cases, I'll compromise my variation in perspectives, finding one best spot to plant myself and use a tripod. Since these images are of outdoor events and dogs playing in parks, I'll still be limited on the speed I can use; but I'll experiment with bringing it down a little. While I can't do this for events, for my dog photography, I'll experiment with different times of day. I definitely feel my photography would benefit from faster lenses, too. I've got them on my wish list.
How do I do this if the images are in Lightroom not bridge? “Merge to HDR pro in photoshop” doesn’t give me smart object layers. Should I start to use bridge? Great teaching over the years thanks🧐
Hi and thanks for all you do. I create virtual 3-D Interior images , I would like to know how you can use photoshop to make them look even more realistic. Thanks
Hi! I have a question about something I just couldn't figure it out... With does my RAW image (in this latest Camera Raw update) look much sharper than in Photoshop, after I open it? I would really appreciate if someone could help me with this one. Thanks! :)
@@_Drab I've heard disputes about this with pro's who disagree with each other. The thing is - what difference does it make which working colour space you choose if your going to see the same gamut on your SRGB moniter anyway? I have a 72% NTSC which is 99% SRGB, and if i use prophoto working space i still see SRGB, if i choose SRGB working space i still see SRGB, so how does it make any difference?
Hi Aaron. I am a huge fan of your editing tutorials. I stay in India and I want to subscribe to phlearn pro from India and pay in Indian currency. Is it possible to do so.
