thanks for the video i realised i was putting the connector in the wrong way round. your video explains it clearly and i was able to do the crimps on my SN28b crimp tool
I'm super thankful for all the tutorials on how to crimp but modern cameras just make it so hard to focus that I feel cross-eyed after two videos haha thanks again. I've been doing it close to correct but off by a tiny bit which means I keep failing haha
Wow! Nice Video to show how to do this, I have been trying to get mine done. But I jack em up a lot. I think after watching your video I might get a better crimp. I never knew about that shelf in there, running up stairs to my work space to check mine out.
Thanx! Something to try when I get home. I have a crimper like that, but have still been using my needlenose pliers as I don't have the hang of my crimper yet. ;-)
Great success !!! These little bastards are a pain in my bottom. I see people doing these 10 a minute. Like... whaaaaa ? I found success with a 2-3mm exposed wire.
A trick I use to not have to insert the wire blind is to crimp the empty connector in one of the bigger dies first, which should let you shove the wire in with enough friction to hold on, then crimp it again in the proper sized one
If you have 28 AWG wire you NEED a 28 AWG rated pin. Same goes for all sizes of wire. There is no range built into these type of pins. The jaw width matters also when you match your tool to your pin length to make it easer to crimp the pin correctly. Most cheap crimp tools are too skinny and do a bad crimp job. A good tool will make a heart shaped crimp on the wire connection and a circle around the wire insulation creating a wire strain for the pin. Your tool seems to be making a heart shaped crimp on both, I don't know if that is good or bad though. I wish that there were clear and informative RU-vid videos from the companys that sell these products. I have found very few. And the tools they sell fetch $1,600.00 US dollars. Really ! I feel your pain. Good video though !
Finally! Thank you! I have the exact same crimper and no one, until now, has ever exposed the presence of that inner edge. I gave up mostly on using these connectors because I could never get the darn thing to crimp well. Too many times I would damage the female interface section. I used your method and hit it spot on with an extremely good crimp on the first try.
got the same tool today but from a different brand. the "w" in the tool which folds over the connector was so bad from production that it didn't crimp at all but made the connector stick to the tool.. weird thing haha need a different one then. thank you for the video!
Thank you! I've been trying on and off again to get these "easy" little custom Dupont cable ends to crimp how they should, but very few people show the process of doing so up close, and nobody else (that I've seen so far) shows the entire process up close. Cleary, I've misunderstood how far the wire should stick into the connector. Not by a lot, but probably enough to make it mess up. Hopefully, I'll now be able to get it to work!
Dang that's a really good question. I received it for free from Digikey and then I could never find it again. I guess Digikey has to love you. That ruler remained in the lab of my old office and I really want a new one. If you find it for sale post a link!
@David Malawey Yay! I couldn't have done it without you, thanks. The jaws on my plier were backwards, so they got unscrewed and flipped 180 degrees. Next, I found that a 3mm bare wire end is the best. Measure the thickness of the insulation and use that as a guide, or mark the insulation alongside a metric ruler with a Sharpie pen. Also, mark at 2mm beyond that to tell when that mark is flush with the end of the metal insert. And, I stick a pair of scissors in an induction coil for a count of 8 and use them to strip the wire. Very neat results!
Thanks a lot for the clear video! It's not easy filming something so close-up and the effort is appreciated. I purchased a new and very expensive PC case with a broken front panel wire. I had already exchanged the case once before for a scratch on the inside of the RGB panel, so instead of making another long trip, I decided to repair the break myself. Thankfully, Amazon had a USB header kit and crimper/stripper. All that was needed was a video showing how to insert the pin into the crimper. Asus really needs to work on the quality control especially since both of these problems occurred inside the factory. Thanks again!
