As a Boot guy, cuffing directs attention to the boots. I like the feel of a heavy and thick denim and sometimes I think the tailored Selvedge edge go against the rugged “informal” denim.
Yes you are correct which is why you shouldn’t do it. It’s the same way as those guys who wear only tank tops because they want to show off their muscles just spend $10 and get your jeans hemmed.
I'm a little confused. If I want a straight foldback cuff, I need to wash and dry the jeans a couple times (usually warm setting) before getting it hemmed to the right length before cuffing to take care of any shrinkage. And selvedge denim jeans are supposed to be soaked and hang dried before wearing to get rid of impurities and enhance the strength of the fibers. So how do I get strong fades after doing this? If I was to temporarily cuff and wear them for a few months before washing, shrinking, tailoring, and cuffing, those original cuff marks would leave a permanent mark.
Thoughts on setting your cuff with an iron? Every new pair I get I find the right cuff style for the cut of denim and what style of footwear I plan on wearing with them, then set the cuff with an iron. It instantly sets the cuff and you don't have to worry about it coming unrolled and it is clean looking.
Haha, I am not sure I have the commitment for that ;) But it is a good method of you are dead set on the length and the shoes you will be wearing for the foreseeable.
I've done the same thing for years now, and for me it's the only acceptable way to cuff denim. I got in the habit of ironing and using starch while serving in the Army 20 years ago. Since then, I must say that ironing has become somewhat an obsession of mine and I've become a self confessed expert. Actually, when it comes to my raw denim, after the initial wash and partial air drying (my method is half machine dried and half air hang dried), I turn the jeans inside out and lay the seams flat. After that, I carefully apply aerosol starch (one that preserves color) and use an old pillow case to iron so as not to impact the denim directly. After doing both legs and essentially the whole jeans, I turn the jeans right side out and repeat the process, albeit much easier to iron once the inside has been ironed. I line up the seams and go for it. The end result are jeans that are now fitted but that retain that brand new look and raw stiffness. When I get to the cuffs, I usually go about an inch or slightly over and test the length before hand. I start with the back of the jeans; gently apply the aerosol starch and go over with iron (on steam setting of course) a few times. This usually gets the other side pretty flattened and flush, so I just go over the front side a few times and done.
Cuffer and retired puffer! One thing, on cuff repairs... I have them put the patch piece on the outside of the leg, so that when I cuff again the patch sits on the non visible side....I give it a little help with the iron so the patch folds on the "right" place...I enjoy the repair stitching visible on the outside, can play with colors, etc.....love being obsessed by small stuff like this...great vids man!!!
YOu said that when you hem your jeans you can't show your selvedge edge. How so? You can still leave some length on purpose to cuff it the way you like and show the selvegde. am I right?
I just got the new nettle selvedge jeans from Banana Republic, which are a relaxed straight fit. They fit pretty nice but the length is a decent bit long. I cuffed them 3 times and they sit just above my ankle but still feels a little long. Should I try and shrink them first and see where they sit after? I'm 5'5 by the way.
Sf2explus nailed it pretty much. I wouldn't go for the fabric softener myself but then I never use the stuff. I have a video on just how to do your first soak. Check it out and go from there.
Great video, Matt. Just working my way through your back catalogue. I was lucky enough to go to Kojima a while ago and picked up a pair of Big John 23oz which are my main pair ATM. I absolutely love them to pieces BUT... I have definitely learned my lesson with cuffing with this weight of denim. The cuff has left the prominent deep set line and resulting damage. Maybe they'll look great after the first wash though. Haha. You live and learn!
Hey Oliver. I would LOVE to go to Kohima! In fact I just found a map a friend gave me of the best spots. Never heard of a 23oz Big John! Love the Rare line tho. Sure they will look ace after the wash
@@CeeAreDee @Cee Are Dee It was definitely worth the trek from Osaka first thing in the morning! Didn't manage to get in everywhere I wanted (PBJ was closed and Momotaro was rammed) but it was still great. I think my girlfriend finally understood what the fuss was about!
@@dantes.4845 Dude...This is awesome! This fixed my excess length issue with he single cuff look without going to the tailors. Thank you for sharing this. This cuffing method shall be called "In and Out" or "Out and In" rather. lol
I had no idea you had just posted this video! Subbed lol. I wear levi 511 and 512 in 31-30. Trying first raw denim ever in 501 stf. Any suggestions on the sizing I went with 33-32 because I hear if you put them in the washer they shrink 2 inches in waist and inseam? I want them to be nice and thick that's why I want them too shrink a lot but I don't want them to fade without getting whiskers and honeycombs and stacking. They fit a little loose around the waist so far without a wash but not the the point where they are falling off. Sorry for the long comment /,\
brownbandito7 no worries, that's what we're here for. Hmmm. My experience with Levi stf Red tab is limited but I'm guessing the denim is around the 13oz mark. There is a chance you'll lose 2 inches in leg length but I'd guess only 1 inch in the waist which will. More than likely stretch out again. You should certainly do a soak to get the shrink out ASAP. I have a video explaining the reasoning and the way to do it. Check it out on the channel. If you don't soak, the denim won't last so long and when you do wash, your fades will be all distorted. Best to do it before they set in too much. Let us know how you get on.
I'm the exact measurement you are. There was a time when I would only wear 501 STF's, so I must say that if you buy a 33 waist, the waist will be too big. Go up one inch as the indications on the pocket tag state for a 31" waist. Whenever I've bought a 32" waist and shrunk accordingly. I'd end up with a perfectly fitting 31" waist jean.
The pinrolling could work suite nicely on a straighter cut. Must try... Though tbh I don't a lot of extra length. Depending on footwear I either require 1 turn or none at all... Japanese denim makers don't make them long enough in 36+ waist size imo...
Yeah, this is tricky... if you really want a tapered leg, then maybe take them to a tailor and have them tapered. I know a load of people who do this and they look great. Just make sure they do the inseam and not cut out a chunk of the selvedge... I saw this a few times on the forums... tragedy and no way back!
@@CeeAreDee I'm an old fart, I stick to the straight stuff. Thanks for all your vids btw. Thanks to you I finally got my 1st pair! Just getting comfy now.
I have to say your gunna think I’m crazy but here on the Bch many of denim heads will just cut our jeans. No cuff. Reason is. We’re into the Stringy vibe of threads hanging out. Ya our IH might not last as long but we still can get few years. When on the Beach in Hawaii and in SoCal. Cuffs will always keep sand in them. Most the time we have flip flops on so the cut look on the bottom of the jeans looks cool. Don’t flame me for it.
Hey Douglas... another very good question and it gave me some pause for thought again. Trouble is, (and this is just my personal opinion) I am not the biggest fan of trying to dress up denim in any way. It is essentially a blue-collar fabric for workwear and it never really made the crossover to the sartorial until relatively recently. I think there is a good reason for that. What we love about denim ie the fades and the garment narrative, doesn't lend itself to the notion of sartorial menswear. A beautifully faded pair of jeans with a tailored sportscoat and buttondown looks sloppy. But again, before the litany of hate starts rolling in, this is just my personal opinion. Having said that... I have seen a few rare street style shots when the guys totally nail this look... The secret seems to be a brand new pair of raws, no cuff and hemmed above the ankle. A beautiful pair of shoes, no socks or those little-hidden socks so your shoes don't get stinky. A belt that matches the shoes fitted shirt and a tailored blazer. These guys have that ‘sprezzatura’, a studied carelessness, especially as a characteristic quality or style... It works for them, but it's not clear why... I have seen others, with pretty much the same get up who look terrible. As with all these things, and the sprezzatura, the point is, there are no hard and fast rules. If you love it and you think it works, rock it. But to answer your specific question... nope, never cuff when dressing up.
What I do is get a proper hem so that I still get some light stacking when wearing boots or shoes, but leaves enough to do a small double roll with sandals or barefoot to avoid stepping on them.
Pin roll we used to call pegging your pants. Was popular in the late 80s. I kept doing it until 92... apparently I was very uncool for continuing to do it. Looks better on an adult than a tween.
In my actual raw project I don't cuff at all, because I like the fades of the stacking a lot more then the cuffed look. I don't need to show of the selvedge, because I buy this kind of jeans for me, not to show off at all. :-)
zumdidum it's a fair comment. I do like the fades you get from stacking but for me, it messes with the fit too much. Cuffing is the best of both worlds for me.
i need to cuff because they are actually not in my lengths but always do the simple cuff and with one simple cuff it dont change the fit of the jeans and i like to wear the jeans with large cuffs, that the end touch the shoe completely not like that you can see youre ankles, this looks shit in my mind.
Hmmm. Possibly. But given all the denim being manufactured each and every second. I'd say 99.999% of the projectile loomed denim will be significantly lower quality than the Selvedge denim being milled.
Unfortunately cuffing your jeans when you’re 5’ 3” makes you look incredibly short so I don’t do it. I exist in the world were you just step on your hem Or pay a fortune to have them shortened 🤷♂️
I’d be tempted to have them hemmed and go for the tapered fits. I mean, if you get a good pair of jeans and have them hemmed they can be your go to the year round. The Modest Man RU-vid Channel has some amazing content for getting the fit right for shorter guys.
Don’t be that guy who cuffs thier jeans. Just take $10 or $15 to a seamstress and have them hem your jeans to the proper length Unless you like looking like a tool
