Thanks! Very cool. The temperature/time trials are super helpful. It is gooey because you immersion coated it. Best way to soak deep but you need to pull the parts and wipe a couple times during the hour. The scotch brite/steel wool is also an awesome way to seal old weathered wood with cracks: brush it with linseed (boiled) and rub with scotch Brite (or paper) pushing the paste into the cracks. Makes the best filler ever.
Thanks for doing a video on this, there really isn't much info I've been able to find online for this. I too had a similar thought, that if you can season an oil finish on cast iron it should work on wood too. I'm currently assembling a roasted swamp ash guitar body that I finished in Odie's oil last night. I went to apply copper sheilding tape to the control cavities and the oil was still too wet. I got the body sitting in the oven with the door propped at the lowest setting . It's already heat treated wood so I'm not worried about discoloration, but I still don't wanna stress it out. These benchmarks are useful for figuring out my own process.
I would think you would want to do like pressure-treated wood where time, pressure, and temperature are your variables. Process the wood in the vessel to vacuum (45 min) to filling the vessel to 150PSI of the chosen oil and holding for about 3 hours, then remove the oil and return to vacuum (30 min). temperatures of 95 °C (203 °F) (lower than kiln drying at 180 °C (356 °F) to 230 °C (446 °F) depending on timber species). The original pressure treatment process for wood used creosote Or maybe a better choice would be the open-tank treatment aka boiling-and- cooling method aka Thermal treatment process (TTP). A dip an dunk style treatment from hot near-boiling solutions then quickly dunked in a cold solution. This would lend itself easier to a DIY process. Think of this as a process of cycle times. hot near-boiling oil for as long as it takes to get the wood to temperature of the oil, then immersed in the "cold" oil for as long as it takes to bring the wood to the "cold" oil; then repeat for 5 cycles. Times, temperatures, and cycles is what you control for each wood.
Good to see you publishing a video again. I'm glad one of us is 😄 I am reminded of "Fahrenheit 451". If that temperature is correct and it is the temperature that paper burns then one would assume that as you went to 400F you were getting close to the charring temp of the wood. What about the control pieces. Didn't you mention at the beginning of the video how baking wood changes it? Did you notice anything in the unoiled pieces?
Hah! Good to hear from you! Yeah I kinda wonder how long I could put one in there at 450 degrees. The unoiled pieces changed just a little, they got a bit darker, but not nearly as dark as the oiled ones. I don't remember if there was anything else different about them. I shot this so long ago it's ridiculous. I have at least 2 other videos on the hard drive that just need editing and I can post them too. Just haven't been in the RU-vid mood I guess, watching OR posting. Feeling like that might change soon, we'll see.
@@WhatDennisDoes Feeling like that might change?? Give it time, that feeling will pass :-D Actually I'd love to see you publishing more often. I always enjoy your content.
Dennis, I was really pleased to see a new video from you. Got a bit worried that the virus had got you. Have you researched how the oil changes chemically when subjected to high temperatures?....because you said the oil is to create a 'patina' on cooking & eating utensils. I saw a programme on TV (in UK) a while back that said that certain oils - I am thinking vegatable & olive oils - break down when used for frying, creating some less than healthy compounds....basically don't use extra virgin olive oil for frying food. How about speeding up the oil aging/patination process by subjecting the spoons to a lower temperature for long periods of time (days)?
Hi Sean! That's a good question, I kind of assumed heating just speeded up what the oil would do naturally at room temp, but at some temperature it must change. What temp and what does it change into? No idea but you got me thinking. Funny enough right after I posted this of course someone sent me a link to a carver that puts flaxseed coated pieces in a warming oven for days at a time. Low temp, much longer time. I might try a piece at 250 degrees for a day. Another thing I want to try is UV radiation. The UV apparently speeds up polymerization as well.
