Best video I've ever watched on this joint - the fact that you explain the reasons for the shadows and the high points was exactly what is missing for me when learning from other videos. Amazing, gonna go ahead and watch more of your videos 👏
Worth repeating what a lot of the other comments say, brilliant instructional video! Lots of detail that is usually overlooked but that makes the difference. Thanks Matt. Looking forward to seeing the next video.
Another great tutorial, thank you! I’m retired, love wood working, and determined to master hand-cut dovetails/joints. You have given so many great pieces of advice. I feel ready to try it now. Also, I need that router plane!
Hi Matt, Loving how you are structuring the videos; talking through the best tools to do the job, how to get them to achieve their maximum potential, and finally putting them to work doing joinery. Also, the detail in this video was fantastic. I picked up a lot of great tips! You are inspiring me to up my hand tool game!
Thank you so much! Your videos are so well structured and detailed. I really appreciate you walking us through and explaining the whys of what you're doing.
Amazing clear explanation of why each technique is used and the advantages of using it. In looking forward to watching the rest of the jointing series. Learned so much already. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Just wanted to say matt that I'm going to school for fine woodworking. This video, and mainly the information in your chiseling is great inspiration, and provides many examples of what to look out for in this sort of process.
I am using this joint to make window frames and doing it all with hand tools . I find there is something very satisfying about using a chisel! It is my first attempt so thank you for your video, it is very useful.
Matt Estlea - Furniture wow, that's so nice of you to say. I do need to learn a lot. What really makes me sit and watch your videos is the care you take on the details. The patience to achieve the finnese. Nice getting to see your channel. Where do I post any questions?. Here or on your website?
Well structured channel, probably one of the best from youtube so far. I have a different technique for cleaning the half lap joints. Instead of using the shoulder plane or the router plane, I clamp the piece in the vice along with a sacrificial piece and then I use a skew rabbet plane (Veritas) to clean the joint.
Oh yes, It's better than a Stanley 78 or Record 778. The skewed bevel down iron works great on end grain and it allows you clean the whole lap, without skewing the body.
Well, nothing to disagree about! May I suggest Starrett NIST certified squares and layout tools, pricey yep, but well worth it because EVERYTHING depends on the accuracy of the measuring and marking tools just as you rightly pointed out. Great job!
Thanks for another great vid. I do like when people show you warts and all, by that I mean you've shown the shadow gaps you had, and more importantly what you did to get the joint perfect. Cheers David
While this is a brilliant tutorial, and certainly the only tutorial one would ever need to watch for cutting a half lap joint by hand, I’d love to see a video where you make one half lap joint by hand (working at full speed - without the hindrance of explaining in detail everything you’re doing) vs making the same joint on a table saw with a jig (again, at full speed). Kind of a “John Henry vs The Machine” video. I would think the latter would be faster and more accurate while the former would be more satisfying. If the table saw proves to be less accurate (or detrimental in any way) you could do a hybrid method where the table saw cuts to within a millimeter (or half millimeter?) of the line, then finish it up with a shoulder or router plane. Of course, this presupposes that you’re doing this professionally - and “time is money”. If you’re making an heirloom piece for yourself or a loved one, doing everything by hand obviously makes it more special and shows off your craftsmanship.
That's great to hear, cheers Joshua! The next few halving joint videos will be a tad shorter at 15 minutes, but you will still learn some helpful tips.
I actually cut my first halving joint in my first video that I recently posted (though not by hand). Not as precise as yours, but for my needs, it worked perfectly and I'm pretty happy with how it came out. This video does make me want to try to do it all by hand though, still need to get a good cross-cut saw and rip saw.
You should seriously teach a wedged mortise and tenon joint and a tusked mortise and tenon joint and all the joints that you can think of because even though there are many who teach such stuff, your viewers enjoy your teaching style.
Thank you so much for your hard work! 😊 Need some advice: 🙏 I have a set of words 🤷♂️. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). Can someone explain what this is? 😅
I tend to prefer using the shoulder plane first to get down close to the line against the shoulder. Once I get that flat and to the depth it needs to be, I use that surface as reference face for the router plane to plow out and flatten the rest of that lap.
Great analysis, thank you! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
Great vid. Just thought of something. If you dont like cutting on the 'actual' shoulder line, is there anything stopping you from using your marking guage to cut a second 'temporary' shoulder line close to the 'actual' shoulder line. You could then create a V-groove in that one and use that to saw? This would leave a couple of mm of wood to the actual shoulder line that you could clean up with a chisel?
at the start, marking the shoulder - how about standing one piece vertically next to the other so as to assure they're level - instead of tapping them together ? ...well, that's what I do, anyway. Thanks for the fast-paced tutorial.
That chisel technique at 12:40 - it is prone to errors. Why not to perforn the exact saw cut unstead? Similar question about chisel at 14:50 - is it not easier to make a flat surface with a saw, especially if there are knots in the wood and grain is not streight?
You could just make two knife lines. Your primary knife line and then one a millimeter in. V groove the one millimeter in one for sawing, then you have your primary for when you’re chiseling.
He uses the marking gauge to reference off the face side of each piece. But the marking gauge wheel has a bevel on one side of the blade. So you end up with one board being nice and clean, and the other board with a big beveled dent where the cut line should be?
Really good video for a newb carpenter like me, enough to get me by without these specialised lovely tools like "shoulder planes" and marking guages" ... I hope
Hi mate. Brilliant content as ever. Quick question - I don't have a Jesus pen yet (I'm only really starting out) - can I mark my high points with any other type of pen? ;-)
My brother snuck up on me while I was doing the finishing touches on a wooden carving I was making for my mom I got blood on it and I took a cut to far dow how can I fix that
Why don't you start your saw cut on the end grain for a millimetre or so to establish the line and then drop your cut to the line facing you? Reduces the lines you have to watch at a time to one.
Very helpful stuff in here but please, slow down! You're like a magician hiding the marble - "...it's under this cup, that cup, move that one, this one..!". Maybe try decaff on filming day?
Great video, skills and description. But Matt- you speak to fast and on top of that sink deep into your English accent. Very hard for me to understand.
Matt Estlea - Furniture Try experimenting with a different distance between the camera and the bench. Essentially it is caused by the frequency of the grain matching up with the frequency of the pixels on the sensor. Look up fashion moire or fabric moire. Fashion photography has to deal with this all the time and it is often solved by moving closer or further away thereby offsetting the two frequencies.
Mate, as soon as you make a religious reference like “Jesus”, you automatically make your videos unusable for school or educational purposes because schools must be areligious and apolitical! Now I am very reluctant to use what would have been a very useful industrial arts video for my students!
What a faff, way too much time spent on that, if you can't accurately cut to the line with the saw just make a series of cuts to the required depth and then use a chisel to remove the waste, simple when you know how!
Dude you need to take a big breath and slow down please. You refer to things, but you do not show or tell how to find them. What Wednesday video on a "Shooting Board"? You are putting out a lot of information very fast without any graphical reference tools. Put a logical white board behind you to refer to (not a physical one). You keep apologizing for the Woodworking noise in the background, but you can hardly hear it. The noise actually proves that you are working in a wood shop and not a staged studio for Hollywood productions. Get a tool wall up quickly of your favorite hand tools that you use so we can relate to you as a actual woodworker and not a student with million dollar tools that no one has please. Your audience lives and works in wood caves of many forms around the world. I enjoy all of your videos very much, but you need to make some changes so you can continue to grow your channel. Presenting tool challenges can be done enthusiastically in a staged environment , but your Woodworking content needs to change to a slower output speed so we can adsorb your knowledge while you use tools we can relate to duplicating in a environment we can relate to. I really want you to be successful so we have the opportunity to learn from your technology knowledge in wood craft and film producer. Be C👀L. 🤠
I know what you're saying about million dollar tools, re Norm Abram?, but he doesn't often show those tools. He's developing his own style of presentation and it pretty good.
I agree. I'm new to the channel and new to woodworking with hand tools. Sometimes explaining too much takes away from the point. I got a little lost when he kept saying the face side facing this side but not the face side on this side. Like what??? 🤯 He needs to slow down and maybe think about what he's trying to say without sounding confusing. Nothing wrong with reshooting 5 seconds over a few times to get it right. Otherwise, excellent videos and I really appreciate it.
