Cheers Devin! I'm sure you could throw a message over to glowforge and they might be interested in seeing what you could do with one of there machines... 😉
If you didn’t worry about the kerf when you cut all of those sides you simply flip one over and it should have the opposite kurf angle on it as well and should fit perfectly together?
It's going to be a good one. Will probably be a little while still as I want to make a few more videos showcasing the fundamentals because i'm sure they will answer many questions that would come up if I just posted the more complicated box. Plus it will make the final video 1/3 the length and I can be focused on designing that style of puzzle box. so keep in the loop I'm sure it will be out before the spring. Along with a how bunch of testing and other project videos.
Hello; great video ... and clear to understand But I am wondering ... 1 - how do you then design stuffs for others so they can laser cut it ? without the kerf consideration ? 2 - how to tackle the kerf with a design of someone else without redoing the design ?
Hey Logo, As soon as I've finished the blender intro to precision modeling I'll be updating and adding much more to this puzzle box series. I'm so glad you have enjoyed the video 😀
Technically yes.... BUT! keep in mind that acrylic does not have as much give as wood. Plus keep in mind that laser kerf is not a straight up and down.
This sounds to me that you might have a double kerf doing on. So a kerf for your x and a kerf for you y. You need to find the number that works best in the middle or have your laser realigned / focused so that the cutting point is more of a circle. I hope that helps
I don't consider kerf at all... Other than if it's different on the X and Y of course. But that tiiiiny gap between fingers, makes them slide nicely together, while not actually having any noticeable gaps. With that said, I always use glue. I haven't made anything yet that is meant to come back apart.
The kerf is strongly dependant on the laser technology you are using and its focus, along with the type of material you are cutting. You can expect some costly CO2 lasers to be finer than cheaper IR laser and therefore less noticeable... I believe..
what i have done for our lab is a grasshopper script. you choose you kerf from a menu (of measured tests) and then you can fine tune it with a slider if needed. it takes the value and offsets out all the outer curves and offsets in all inner curves. one click solution that can correct any drawing (which is drawn without kerf correction) with a single click. this simplifies drawing management and gives one click correction when matetials or cut parametres change :)
This sound awesome constantinos! I'm shifting my 3D modeling into blender currently and there have a great addon API I'm thinking I might make somthing close to your grasshopper code into a blender addon. If you know python and feel like learning an API you might want to make your code open for others using blender?
Thank you for a very imformative video, and especially for the example file. I had one question about the file. I see nominally all fingers and slots were designed at 10x3 mm. The fingers when accounting for kerf grew on the 3 sides by 0.08, making the fingers 10.16 x 3.08. What was confusing to me was the slots that the base would snap in to. With kerf adjustment they changed to 9.84 x 3.0 mm. I would have expected the kerf adjustment to be both in width and height, giving 9.84 x 2.84 mm. Why did the height of the slots stay at 3.0 mm? Thank you.
Hey Ray, I have a feeling that one of two things are happening here. Me and human error or that as it's not a kerf and a kerf it's half the kerf... or put frankly I'm a little lost in the answer of the question. I'm more than happy to talk it thought and see where I have gone wrong by having a chat on my discord if you want to ask the question there?
@@Keep-Making thank you. It’s not all that important. I am not sure what you mean by chatting on you “discord “? What is that? Thank you again for an interesting video.
@@rdavis0521 Still just to let you know i'm here to help =) Discord is like a forum room / chat board for communities this here is the maker tales one: discord.gg/Ezx9hUD
If you'd like it to be flat, you could put the plywood on some perfectly flat piece of metal and clamp it or weigh it down so it is forced flat against it. Then put the ensemble in a oven to warm up the glue inside the plywood then let it cool while still clamped to the metal plate. Dismantle when cold to the touch and it should remain flat. You could use a heat gun on not too high a setting instead of a oven.
great video! If I wanted to cover this with leather (to make a tiered jewellery box) do you think a finger joint is appropriate for the base? or is simply glueing the sides with no special joints sturdy enough (as it won't go undone due to the cover material)?
A butt joint isn't the strongest but it's common. If your adding support with a second layer then it's fine enough. You could add some pin nails to add some support.
Hi Ian, Do you mean how to make tabs for laser but bits? This way you can get the wood but it still "stuck" together and then then you push them a little bit to free the bit?
@@Keep-Making hi so sorry for the late reply, Yupp I wonder how to make the wood will still contact to the base wood after the cutting process (doesn't split ),thank you so much
Thank you tomorrow going to try to make my first box. Thanks for the help and PDF file. Are not all the lines on the file suppose to be red are they not all cuts?
Hi Norman, thanks sounds great! How did it go? Long and the short there different colors to create a cutting order. Inner shapes first and then the outter shapes this is why there are 2 different colors.
@@Keep-Making The box came out good I just used your Kerf because mine was almost exactly the same as yours thanks for helping me get started. I just need some easy software to make my own boxes now.
@@ratdog420 Great to hear. As for a program to use I've almost finished creating a whole course on how to use blender ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZI49VIcISaw.html
@@Keep-Making thanks I will definitely watch and subscribe to your channel. I have tried to use Blender once to combine 2 projects fpr a 3d print job but was totally lost. Maybe you can open my eyes looks like awrsome software. I made another box with inkscape working on a 2 x 4 wood box for a 3d plastic lithophane to mahe a nightlight that hangs from a wall.
100% Niklas, The fundamentals of the way you would achieve this result is the same tho. With a little bit of time, I'm planning to show how to do this both in Inkscape and Blender. Plus I'm planning on making a course showing step by step fundamentals of laser design in a free program.
@@Keep-Making dont forget Flex(for flexing the Wood) and extender joints, to hold linear pull (like a jigsawpuzzel Pieces) to make boxes bigger than the laser can cut by extending pieces together. Lookin forward to your guide in Inkscape
@@n1k7a53 I'm glad you're looking forward to it. Do you have an example image of this Flex. I think I know what you're talking about but not 100% sure.
No, it's correct. It's like a circular saw. The laser removes exactly 0.15mm on the line on both sides of the piece. He removes half of it from the workpiece and the other half from the cut-out. 0.075 mm on the left side + 19.85 mm piece of wood + 0.075 mm on the right side.
Hey Cornel, I use a glowforge basic. It's quite a nice laser and very easy to just get into laser cutting without thinking to much about the setting up. If you are thinking about getting a glowforge you can use this like to save up to $500 glowforge.us/r/ZZQUPTED
The program at this point is Rhino 3D, I no longer use this program but I used blender where you can do the same. Here is a full course for it that i've made: ru-vid.com/group/PL6Fiih6ItYsXzUbBNz7-IvV7UJYHZzCdF
Frankly, that's the only video I was able to find about kerfing explanation... Thanks! What I miss... is howto video about Rhinoceros e2e process of designing a laser cut model... I have some experience in SketchUp, but it seems the process is slightly different. And exporting faces there requires an extra plugin and some amount of manual work.
Hi Nikolay, I'm so happy I was able to help! I really do try to provide as much refined information for the task at hand that I can confidently provide. When you say e2e do you mean engineer 2 engineer? Are those the type of videos you miss? As for sketch up I really do not have much experience there. However, Keep an eye on this space "shhhhh" ( I could be in the middle of developing a free addon for Blender to export laser cut files in one click 😉 ) As for exporting rhino faces I just used DupFaceBorder most of the time when i'm working with 3d geometry to get a curve.
@@Keep-Making hmm... never thought about "engineer 2 engineer" :), but this is cool acronym explanation! E2E usually stands for End to End "in my world". What I see in your videos is a simplicity to build something, however if I want to reproduce, I understand I miss something important. Thant's why I actually vote for end to end story of your process of model building, like how do you setup your environment to save time for the digital work. I haven't watched all your videos yet, probably you reveal those secrets somewhere else. But keep going, your videos are high quality, self-explanatory and... fulfilling (I had to come to this particular video multiple times to get details memorized better).
@@nhrust ah ok. I would love to know your thoughts on things you would like to know, in relation to how I set up my environment to save time for the digital work. Would this be things like my general digital file management or prototyping components separately before adding them into more complicated builds? I ask as I would be interested to create a video on topics you and i'm sure others are interested in. ( Ya the design process memorisation can take a while. I've made countless amounts of laser files now both personally and professionally that I've somehow rewired my brain when I'm designing for laser to think in terms of laser interactions with the material. It took me a good 6 months of designing almost every day to start to have this kerf compensation mindset developed)
