How to Design Mechanical Keyboard Plates and Cases 

Yup, that’s what I do now and updated all my boards to use the same. Makes it sturdy while still allowing them to clip in

Glad you liked it :)

Hell yeah! Which controller are you going with?

@@joe_scotto I had a teensy2 laying around for another project that I have been using to test out all of this handwired stuff since I saw your reddit post/youtube video-- I had success wiring up the 3x3 so I feel really inspired like I can keep going! I bought a couple "0xcb pluto" boards that look really pretty and are usb-c that I want to try something like the corne or your ScottoSplit, but a 60% O:-)

i had the same question, i you found any solution to this please share

Yes, 14x14mm is the standard size hole cutout for all MX switches, including cherry red.

@@joe_scotto thank you sir, really appreciate it

Glad you like it! Could you explain more what you mean by “concavity”?

@@joe_scottoAngling each row

You just align them based on the dimensions of the pcb screw holes.

If you’re referring to the plate, I would still say to use 3mm thick. You can add a recessed section of 1.5mm thickness inside the switch cutouts to allow them to click in.

@@joe_scotto I'm planning on gasket mounting my pcb and plate sandwich. this would be a brass material on top of the plate. Your switch size diagram helps a lot but I was wondering if there was already a size you used.

Have the same question and want to know which software too!

Shapr3D

Shapr3D

It’s a pain in the ass simply put. You have to use anchor points and rotation to get everything set right. I do believe though that it has a preset for the Alice that you could then modify. That might make it a bit easier.

@@joe_scotto I was on the mechkeys discord and got some formats that I've been able to use. I'm currently about to add the screw holes to the plate if I can figure it out, its my first time using fusion 360 so I'm having a bit of trouble. What software were you using?

I use Shapr3D on iPad :)

@@joe_scotto how do you get it from the ipad to the printer or computer?

@@joe_scotto another question I had was, if the stabilizers are plate mounted and there is no pcb, what is preventing them from just falling out of the bottom? are they close enough to hit the bottom of the case?

It’s a browser extension called “Dark Reader”

You’re correct, they won’t click in but the friction alone is enough to hold them.

Depends on the controller. For most boards I just measure the dimensions and hot glue it into a cutout with them. More recently though I’ve been using socket headers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qkx9M-AzznE.html

MX and Choc use the same 14x14mm cutout. The only difference is that MX clips in to a 1.5mm thick plate but Choc needs 1.2mm.

@@joe_scotto nice, thank you!

Not really much to say about it. Really you just need to place it countersunk in the case and position a hole to match where the port is. The only thing I change build to build really is the dimensions depending on the controller.

You could possibly glue it into the plate but the issue then would most likely be binding of the wire. The only other possible option I could see is maybe cutting out a rectangle from the 3mm plate and then trying to fit a 1.5mm thick portion in there with glue. The real best option IMO is just printing the plate if at all possible because then both of those issues won't exist anymore since it's basically a "hybrid" thickness plate.

Free tier is the same as the full version except you can only have 2 projects and less export options.

Shapr3D on iPad

Shapr3D

Nope. It doesn’t matter for the plate, there is enough clearance and it’s measured so the screw has enough length without the countersinks.

I don't remember what I said in the video but there shouldn't be an issue laser cutting MX/Alps. However, there is an issue 3D printing MX/Alps cutouts and that is that if you do the standard 1.5mm thick plate, it will be really flexible on a 3D print. To negate that issue, I print my plates at 3mm and use either 1.5mm thick recessed areas to help clip them in or just rely on friction.

@@joe_scotto Thanks. It makes sense. I'm looking at options for creating a custom keyboard. Currently, I am considering SLA or FDM for the case, but I'm concerned it might be too large or too expensive to print using an online service. I'm going for a 60 to 65% form factor. Btw, if 1.5mm is too flexible for a 3D printed tape, you might be able to epoxy small ridged metal bars horizontally across the plate in rows. It can also serve as ground bus bars to reduce the wiring. It's unclear, however, if there's enough clearance where you'll need them. Copper tape is another option and can be soldered onto, however, it won't add much rigidity to the plate.

I think it’s very worth it, I’ve tried fusion 360 and the performance is terrible on my Mac. Shapr3D is very intuitive to use which is what I love about it. If you happen to be a student, they have a discount that will give it to you free.

@@joe_scotto that's why I liked SketchUp when I first started using it all those years ago. I would prefer something with constraints and sketches over SketchUp. It's getting old now. My van build 3d model is way too complex now for SketchUp to be fun.. Thanks for the reply. I love the fast paced tutorial that assumed I'm smart enough to figure the rest out.

www.shapr3d.com

Hi ​@@joe_scotto nice video, do you use the pro version or the free one is sufficient?

Haha, true DIY!

“How to design mechanical keyboard PLATES AND CASES”

@@joe_scotto yeah thats the title which was too long for being entirely readable on my device before clicking on it. the thumbnail simply states "designing keyboards is easy". but dw i dont blame you for clickbait or anything you did talk about what you state in the title, i simply had wrong expectations

Could you just send the plate design to get cnc'd?

Yeah, I'm not too active during the week but there is a large community that can likely help you out: discord.gg/vN6X3z8eyv