Identifying how to determine if a wall is bearing or non-bearing, and what to look for before removing it. For more helpful video's or information about our company, please visit our website at www.idecharlotte.com
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Great video for the novice. I read some of the comments you received and had to chuckle about. Everything about the attic being dirty, the insulation is bad, the AC is trash. Of course it is, It's a 50 or 60 year old house. It can be fixed, cleaned, and re-insulated to R-38 (or whatever). You were identifying bearing walls and gave some good information.
Well I have the same scenario, it's an old house and the structures on the ceiling joist are about the same. The problem with it that you don't show how to resolve it. If you have a video like that on this house. Send me the link. It would be very helpful
Would there ever be (ceiling) drywall between a top plate and a ceiling joist? I have a truss roof. Wall is running perpendicular to the ceiling joist (middle of house). Seems like it is non load bearing?
Does anyone know what that truss design is called? I have a 1946 house that has a similar design but it also has some little 1x4s coming off the braces about 1/2 way down and going back (the opposite direction the brace is going, but also at an angle) and also ties in somewhere. I have not been motivated enough to dig through the blown in cellulose to see where it ties in. Just curious what my truss design is called.
I agree with Joe, given the age of the house and the description you have given, it sounds like you have a stick built roof, therefore the roof and ceiling members are likely relying on interior walls.
Wow! Just what I was looking for and you answered my questions so well! Other videos are not as easy and well demonstrated as yours, I truly appreciate your work. It's been a while since you posted this video but I can honestly say yours is one of the best! Thanks Again! 👍👏👏🤗
To put it more simply... All walls that are Perpendicular to the rafters/trusses are load bearing, whether they were designed to be or not. After 5yrs or more of the structure settling, there is now enough weight on those walls for the ceiling to drop noticeably if removed. Sometimes it's only enough to crack the ceiling sheetrock, but I have seen it drop enough to break ceiling joists. YMMV. If only moving the wall laterally a few feet (expanding one room), you're usually ok. If removing the wall entirely, a header is needed.
You are wrong with your assumption. Just because walls run Perpendicular to the rafters and trusses doesn't mean they are automatically designated load bearing wall. I have work on many homes. All you have to do is look in your attic. Or if you have a garage that is unfinished ceiling you look and see if it is manufactured trusses. Matter of fact in my home the only load bearing walls are exterior walls. It also has manufactured trusses. There are no trusses sistered together. This video is good for people wanting to know.
I said they BECOME load bearing due to settling, regardless of design. I've had numerous ceilings drop after wall removal, even though the trusses were engineered to support the total span. It's common enough to support my original statement.
Well explained, but it really only takes a little common sense to figure it out. Having to explain it just goes to show that common sense isn't so common
Go to a construction site get the most experienced Mexican framer , pay him $100 bucks and save $400 why hire an engineer for a simple expansion. These guys want money $$$$$$ . Trust me these framers know everything about load bearing walls.
I'm interested in what the negative replies would be, something like: you cheated-you went in to the attic... or: it doesn't matter if you remove one wall because the other will do the work of both. Good Video!
Yeah this was pretty good. Pretty much exactly how I would assess it so hearing it from you was a real confidence booster. Well articulated too. Thanks!
Would you please give me a bit of advice on my 1950s house? The west side of my Hip roof is sagging, like those old rafters are warped. Can i go in the attic and simply erect support beams between the rafters and the ceiling joists, in a inexpensive attempt to just prevent it from sagging any further? thank you
I have a wall running along a joist and in attic there are 2x4s running from the roof rafters to this same floor joist where roof has different lines - like side of house put up against the rest with same pitch but at a different level. load bearing? Would bracing against other joist take load if so?
Here's my problem, the space above has a half the span size set of stairs from side to side upstairs and it's open. It's just sheeted in, I have the chimney tore down to the floor level. I want to open it up to the ceiling on the second floor or top of the stairs. How do I determine if I can do this or not?!?!
I watched the other vid where you show how a flush beam was weakened by cutting it to fit to the roof pitch. Luckily my beam is perpendicular to the joists and goes to the end of the house where the gable end finishes. That is; it is a flush end. But the other wall which does sit under a ceiling joist and on top of a double floor joist runs parallel to these members. At the centre of the house and top roof line the ceiling joists do rest on the centre hall bearing wall, so am unsure at this stage if the parallel wall bears the weight of the ceiling joists. Question is.. how would you do a beam over where the bearing wall is parallel to the ceiling joists? Thanks
If all of the joists have the same span and bear on the same center bearing wall, and there is no special roof bracing down to the ceiling joist/wall in question, then it is safe to assume that the wall directly below the ceiling joist is non-bearing. In this video, the ceiling joist spaced at 16" on center did not fall over the parallel wall, so a flat plate was added to fasten the sheetrock. In your case, it sounds like the joists were spaced in such a way that one ceiling joist ended up being located directly over the wall. I think we are on the same page, and I hope this helps?
what about a wall that goes the same way as the 2 load bearing walls that are under ceiling joists but no braces down to it nor ceiling joists are spliced over it?
This is the best "how to determine load bearing walls" video that I've found on RU-vid. The explanations are often the same information, but the staging of the video, delivery of message, in coordination with each other is exactly what I needed. Great job!
Robert Rinehuls if there are roof/joist combined to make trusses it is still enough,they will still be attached to or sitting on a wall.inside or outside load bearing means just that. Old school carpenter
I wouldn't say more modern because it depends on the shape of the house and the builder. Most custom builders still use stick framed (rafters and ceiling joists) because it allows for more attic storage..it's just more labor intensive. A typical track builder that is building simpler "square shaped" houses will use trusses to speed up production time and reduce costs. The only downside of using trusses I'm my opinion is limited attic storage. If you do have roof trusses, there's a good chance that they are not bearing on your interior walls, but make sure you consult a structural engineer first.
I'm a general contractor and I stick frame everything. Depending on the design of the home, trusses can support the roof entirely from the exterior walls making all the walls in the home non load bearing. it really just depends on the design.
Marcel Papineau Good advice, because as you guys know there are many house designs that use three point trusses, which are a little trickier to determine.
Where's the next video showing you install the beam? The home I just bought is identical to that layout.....but it's 20', not 18. Wanted to know what size beam you ended up installing? I wanna use LVL.
The other giveaway that these are load bearing is that both walls have let-in braces, those are the ones that run diagnoly across the walls. Used mostly for sheer support
Thanks for the tip, I am trying to install an in wall speaker, The problem i ran into was exactly where the cut out is going to be is a pipe to the left "steam heating pipe. Then a beam to right of it, So the only direction i can go is to cute the beam side. I need to cut about 1 1/2 inches into the beam which is basically the beam side. it's only one beam, I am pretty sure its a load bearing wall. Will cutting that beam by 2 inches be a bad idea? I am not looking to take down a whole wall, just one beam. Another route i can go is to move the speaker over another 20 inches "Kinda Far off" but again i am running into tow beams and at the 20 inch mark, I would have to cute about 3/4 into the beam and 17 inches long way "Top to Bottom. Would cutting 3/4 of an inch off the beam be a bad idea or would i have to support it before i make the 3/4 inch cut, then support it afterwards with two 2x4 's Horizontally then a king stud and a stud?
My safe answer is yes. It really depends how much weight the beam is carrying, the size of the beam, and exact location you want to cut it. This would require a site visit to answer accurately.
