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Great videos dude. You keep it simple for folks like me to understand. Let me ask you a question. I own a 2010 Acura RL with a 3.7 AWD SH engine. I had valve service on my vehicle and after the work, im experiencing vibrations while I'm in D and S whenever I come to a red light. Its a rough idle which I can feel in my seat and steering wheel. Could that be an engine mount issue? It only vibrates in those two gears. Acura is guessing whats going on. It all started after I did the engine mount service. Can you give me any ideas on what that is? Any info is highly appreciated
I'm getting a clunk every now and then when pulling out from a stop so maybe the motor mount? I changed sway bar links and bushings and struts 2018 Acura RDX car was in lite accident on the right front.
Very informative! Gave this a thumbs 👍🏽!! I do have a question, I have a manual prelude and the mounts are slightly different but more/less in the same locations. Recently redone entire suspension/brakes and bearings, but maybe I may overlooked something (like play in a bushing) but when I hit the brakes low speed i hear a knock.. could that be a culprit? (car has 180k so I've been doing bushings bearings gaskets and hoses)
+Unaiz Meraj if the mount knocks when you rev it with your foot on the brake means the mounts broken yes but the mount being broken the vacuum system wont work right because the vacuum that hardens the mount wont work ca use the mounts head would be ripped off letting out the vacuum
Mine does this too. My front mount was completed cracked, replaced and it still has a slight vibration at 2k. It has since the day I bought it 3 years ago. Meh, I give up trying to fix it.
Thank you. Been looking for a "How to test" video for Hondas. Believe it or not it is a little different for each make. Many GM vehicles have a bracket on top of the engine and you can pry against it to test the mounts.
Have on 09 Acura MDX, replaced everything up front on both sides. Both control arm assemblies, outer tie rod ends, CV joints, inner tie rods, sway bar bushings, so everything that would make a knock was replaced except for the engine mounts. would this cause a slight vibration when torque is put to the engine and a knock when gas or braking if the mounts are bad?
Yes it would the engine is moving so its knocking the bracket the torque from the motor and the motor floating when you drive cause mounts aren't holding it in place.
Would my (05 base auto ) tl have the mounts with the vacuum lines or no vacuum lines? I think my rear mount is out. Makes a clunk when I set it on reverse. Oem or rockauto for the mounts? Thanks!
Hey I just brought a 2005 Acura MDX. When I shift into reverse it’s takes a few seconds and it shifts with a loud clunk even if I don’t press the gas. Is that still the motor mounts or could I have a transmission problem?
could be slop in the rear driveshaft. my Ridgeline does the same thing. same drivetrain in the MDX and PILOT if u shift from reverse to drive it clunks bad. if you go from neutral to drive it make way less noise. i think its a little slop in the u-joint in the rear propeller shaft and with all those small amounts of play add up to a good amount of play like 1/8 of total play will make loud noise when shifting from drive to reverse or vise versa. you could unbolt the rear propeller shaft and remove it, drive the same way and see if noise is gone.
Hey MODS FOREVER, I 03MDX makes a knocking sound and will not accelerate. The only time it doesn shake or make noise is when i put it in neutral or park , what does that mean ?
What’s good fab, how do you feel about the innovative solid motor mounts? I saw an earlier video on your buddies type s. Is he still running them? How bad is the vibration?
Hey man my 06' base TL 5AT makes a click when i hear the transmission engage reverse, doesn't make any noise when i rev it in neutral. Think my rear engine mount is bad and hitting the metal? I don't have any vibrations or noise in reverse or drive though.
Since the mounts go bad, do they tend to squeak at all ? I changed my lower control arms, ball joint thinking that was the problem. Changed my passenger side engine mount n the squeak went away for a day n came back ?
So when I cold start my TL it sounds like rattling noise that I can only hear from the inside of the car, when I look in the engine bay it doesn’t sound nowhere near as bad. As it warms up it kind of goes away, if I put it in reverse it’s still there, if I put it in drive it really goes away I don’t know if it’s the o ring, motor mount, or if I’m just dead wrong about both
sound like a loose heat shield metal expands when warm why it kind of rattles less as the car warms up but go under the car or tug on the heat shields on the car and look for movement.
A shop just told me I need new engine mounts. And said even if only one is bad I should replace all of them anyway. What do u think? Or am I fine just doing the 1 bad one
I have a 09 acura changed all my mounts yesterday still clunking when I put it in gear still vibrating when I hit highway speeds feel like it’s like shurrdering at 100
I need some help man. I got an 08 tl base 5spd auto with 48k original miles. I changed all 5 mounts last year with original mounts. But I still have a problem. When putting the car into drive and reverse there is a clunk and the engine tilts. It doesnt do it all the time. But the more I put into drive and reverse the harder it does it.
Just a heads up car can have bad 02s and it run rough enough to make it feel like a mount is bad. Learned the hard way. I've owned two accord now for 10 yrs one 4cyl and one 6cyl
I replaced my rear active control mount and when it idles it taps like someone is hitting it softly with a wrench and when i touch it. It stops . Everything is tightened correctly
Could I have bad motor mounts because. When I put it in drive I feel a bump not a cluck same goes for reverse. Also when I accelerate I feel a vibration but don’t know what it could be. I checked the vacuum hose and it hold pressure. Checked the mounts not cracked or anything like that and also not hitting anything
Some aftermarket mounts suck I know I have changed hundreds some are just to hard and don't absorb the vibrations enough and the knock sound is usually the sound of a broken engine mount idk I am not there to see the work but I hope the oem mounts will get things sorted for you.
My 2012 accord clunks when I shift to R, not to D, and start shaking sometimes when driving and is between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Not at high speed . Will that be rear mount or front, or maybe the 2.
@@fabolousg4ever I replaced my rear engine mounts w/ oem ones but didnt solve the issue. I checked the front and side engine mounts and has no cracks or visible wear. I checked the transmission mount too and found no cracks too. What do you think is the closest mount to have the problem? I tried replaced the cv axles and didnt worked as well.
@@coolchange3291 , yes, it got fix, all I did was replace trans fluid, drain, twice in 3 months, now every 6 to 8 months, only takes 3 quarts, I het from honda dealer for like $7 each quart. Honda will charge around $150 for 1 time.
I went to Acura dealer to see what was the noise that I hear from the inside of car on front right side when started. On cold days the noise was louder when started and put in reverse and on drive but goes away after few minutes. I had one mechanic shop since Acura dealer wants $150 further diagnose after we sat in it and went for test as well when it was on the lift. Acura says they don't know where its coming from. Went to another shop, went through the examples you showed on here. It did raise just like your example and he said replace ALL mounts. Visually, I see side ones are cracked. There are no vibration when I start and stop. I recorded the noise when it was a cold day. Can I send my video so you can hear? Should I replace just the side ones?
ok send me a video and the noise could be from the mounts being broken especially thr side mount makes alot of nouse when broken and put in grar in reverse and drive and why you dont feel no vibration cause thr motor isnt being held thats why.
Can I get your email or contact info? I have other questions. My car has been leaking oil. Took it to dealer and they told me it was coming from oil pump. It was also time to replace timimg belt 118k. So the service told me since I have to replace timing belt they will do also water pump tensioner, serpentine, reseal oil pump, replace oil pan. Tune up, valve gaskets. They charged me $2900. Car still leaking oil. I took back to acura dealer. They saying its cam seals and possibly rear main seal. They want to charge me to change cam seals. They saying the work they did was not causing the oil to leak. Yet this was the reason I initially took the car to acura. I feel they have screwed me over. I need help with finding out why the car is still leaving oil. The leaking oil is engine oil not any other oil.
I have a 13 accord v6. Every time I shift into d or r especially in the morning I get a strong vibration. Could that be a symptom of motor mount or transmission mount?
+Josh killz if you hear a knock when you press on the gas pedal in the engine bay i am pretty sure its the mount what you do is follow the video and you can tell by the knock
Can you do a video about the passenger side motor mount. I hear a cracking noise on the passenger when I hit the gas really hard.. I think its the motor mount because I've had the front and back replaced but not 100% sure
@@fabolousg4ever I can't find the way to check the this side mount in your videos. Please post a link. Mine has a crack in it not sure if it's bad ... Yet or I need to do it asap
Good job bro.... Very common problem on this generation TL. Very noticeable inside the car when power braking in forward or reverse depending on which one is broken.
I was able to take off the entire plastic cover thing off the passenger side motor mount because it was cracked down the whole side. Does this mean that mount is bad? Also I get a very loud clunk when I hit bumps on the passenger side, could this be from the motor mount?
+Colin Irwin get your suspension checked or jack up your can and get a rubber hammer and hit the lower control arm to see if it moves and make sure tha t balljoints is good too cause very common part to go wrong on older acuras
I replaced all my mounts except the rear one and still get rough engagement in Reverse. Im thinking it could be something inside the transmission. It was rebuilt I don’t know by who. I bought it preowned
I have the same problem in my 2013 accord, at the very beginning I thought some valve train issue but I then noticed the its only when on D and and brake And that’s why I’m here doing research. Did u find anything?
Clunk sound not that bad in reverse but it drive it’s bad but it looks and sound like motor mounts still are bad but they are not just got them replaced what could it be
Should you put it in gear or leave it in Park when you hold the brake pedal to the floor and give it gas? Leaving it in Park puts no load on it, so the test will be inadequate.
