Just a note for anyone with similar troubles. The jtec PCMs with the two T-15 torx screws in the front have an issue where one of the screws will eventually begin to ground out a component on the main circuit board and cause random stalling issues. If you have one of these vehicles from Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram etc, then all you need to do is remove the left torx screw on the front of the PCM, add two washers and then replace the screw (or shorten the screw by about an 8th of an inch). Just don't over tighten it with the washers on and it will run perfect. The screw is just too long and causes the vehicle to stall when it occasionally touches something on the inside and the hotter it is the worse it'll get. Once its fixed the engine should run like new. I never believed it myself but once I got the chance to check it and the vehicle was acting up, all I had to do to stall out the engine was lightly press in on the screw. Backing the screw out cured the issue. The two washers worked great so if you have a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram etc from around 1996 to 2003(?) with one of those PCMs with the two screws in the front, try this before sinking more money into parts.
Huh. You don’t say. I’ve been having the very same issues. Replaced sensors, CAM, IAC, checked the MAP, checked the input/output speed sensor, replaced the alt & batt, heck, I even replaced the dang fuel pump. Ran like a dream for all of about 15 minutes, brought it home and it stalled out again. Tomorrow, I’ll have to check the Torx screw.
@@dathenwapoose9697 why in the world would you replace so many parts without knowing if they're bad? EVERY single one of the electrical components on a vehicle can be tested with a simple volt/ohm meter.. very, very few of them need an o scope, but 98% of the time a volt ohm meter will work. There is NO excuse, other than laziness, to throw random parts at a car to try to fix it.. just for future reference look up testing procedures before wasting all your money on parts that aren't broke.. there are tons of better things you could waste money on lol.
Jearmey Morgan I don’t have an ohm/volt reader. After all that “laziness” and wasted money I finally figured out the real problem. Due to the engine replacement I’ve found that the sensors on the replaced engine also needed replacing but, the main SOB that caused such a headache was the damn Crankshaft Position Sensor, which broke off. Now, it’s the dead of winter in Northern Alberta, Santa Clause never came around so, I had to buy every single gift myself. Now, I can’t afford a towing to the nearest automotive shop which is roughly 156km away from my location.
Have a question I'm having trouble with the fuel pump randomly shutting off and I wiggle the connectors and it kicks back on and the truck will start right back up. I'm on my third PCM. The aftermarket company I went through the first one lasted two years and the second one didn't work right of the box. If I bypass and turn the fuel pump on the truck will run than stall do to no gas. Which tell me everything else is working just not what make the pump work. Could this screw be causing this problem? Thanks for any help
The problem with those PCM's is the cold solder joints on the board. If you are handy with a solder iron and patient, you can take it apart and clean out all the gel.Then reflow the chips, mosfets & transformer with leaded solder.
having a similar problems with my 04 dakota 4.7 but it doesnt seem to be really temperature related. it will rarely stall on me it has only twice and started again after stalling but sometimes ill go out to start it and i get no bus, no crank, and no fuel pump. if i leave it alone again for another day or so it will start right up and drive without problems for a week or two then i get no bus for a day or two. has a code for catalyst performance, think it might be a shorting o2 sensor causing it but havent had much time to diagnose. any help would be appreciated.
Hi sir. I'm having trouble with my Nissan vannete car. I replace fuel nozzles monthly because it is getting damaged. Its not working completely causing misfiring. Please help
Bud i dont know if you still ative but you might could help me with a question would a high amperage draw from a cigarette lighter plug from a CB radio about 400 watts mess up ECM or PCM the reason I ask faulty codes coming back from oil pressure sensor and O2 sensors in random bus codes I would greatly appreciate your feedback thank you
Hey watched this video and helped me a lot so after all the time parts blood sweat and beers working on my truck "1999 dodge ram 1500" looked on eBay and found SIA Electronics, Inc was like 125 bucks and had it back in a week. DONT go to a parts place to get this done was going to cost me almost 400 buck that rout so thanks man saved me some money and sia are kickass quick and quality like brand new. truck runs great thanks again....
My 2000 Durango ran perfect the bearing locked up in the alternator and put new one on the amp hand will rise when I start it but when I start going it goes back down but I can continue to drive as long as I want also it seems to be turning more rpms when driving than the tach reads this did not start till alternator lock up now it is shifting all gears but I almost have to do it with the gas pedal really strange please help
I need extreme help diagnosing a major issue with my 2001 4x4 4.7 automatic Dodge Dakota this thing is driving everyone crazy we cannot find or figure out what exactly the issue is with it and we are trying not to spend everything possible just trying to get it running right
I. Have a dodge dakota. When i take out the fuse of pcm. The transmission Relay clicks. And when it tvwarms up the truck the transmission fails. What sould i check
I wish I could shake your hand and buy you a beer! I had no fuel at rail, fuel gauge not working,NO BUS CODE,, it would crank all day long and no fire..((([have had some kind of short in steering column or ignition in the past that caused dash lights and radio to turn on and off randomly, jiggle the key or mess with tilt on the steering column and everything start working again]))). I was ready to replace whole steering column and wiring harness; or drop tank and check fuel pump,,or crankshaft position sensor... and found your video, turned key on,,jiggle wiring harness to PCM and fuel relay clicked, heard fuel pressurize to rail, fuel gauge working and FINALLY, it starts! Thank you very much! Hope this helps someone else. Ours is a 2001 Durango SLT 5.9 MAGNUM. 250,000 MILES and going STRONG.
So I have a 2003 Dakota 5.9 360 automatic, I’m getting no bus on the mileage display, if I mess with the first connector toward the head light I can hear the relays come on and fuel pressure and the no bus leaves and all my gauges work, and the truck will start right up, I had it checked out at a dealership and they said bad pcm, I also put brand new connectors and Flagship One in new york repaired it twice and still won’t run, need help asap thanks
My 99 dodge Durango v8 5.2l slt magnum will start but when put in gear it'll rev up but won't move. The driveshaft barely twitches. Wait a lil bit and then start it again and you'll be able to drive for like 100 ft and then it loses it again. You can turn the car off and then restart it and go another 100 ft like that every time you restart it. It's not throwing any codes but it's like it's not getting out of first and then slipping.
My 2000 Durango had the same "nobus" PCM issue. Dealer replaced PCM three times before trying new harness, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, throttle position sensor, and map sensor. The engine would still stall after 10-20 minutes of driving, and after 10 minutes it would start up and run again. I finally noticed that one of the CEL codes stated that there was a leak in the evaporation control but no leak could be found. turns out the leak detection pump was bad and pulls 12v directly from the pcm. the high load caused the pcm to overheat and shut down. after changing the pump the issue went away.
CEL is the Check Engine Light which comes on when the onboard diagnostics (OBD) detects a problem reported by a code which can be read with a test unit. Some parts stores and independent shops could read your codes for free. Dealers normally charge a fee. The code I received was P0442. The leak detection pump was a small vacuum pump located beneath the battery, not sure if the location is the same for all models. The leak detection pump runs every few minutes by pulling a vacuum in the evaporation control line. If there is no load (full vacuum) the pump shuts off and reports to the OBD that it is okay. If there is a load (no or partial vacuum) for a certain amount of time the system will report it as a leak. If the pump motor is faulty there will be a high load causing it to report a leak and also causing the pcm to trip like a circuit breaker to protect it self from the high electrical draw.
Unfortunately you will not be able to read the OBD when the odometer reads "nobus" when the engine stalls during pcm shutdown. In my case the pcm reset after a few minutes and the odometer returned to normal and I was able to read the codes. If you have a constant "nobus" on the odometer try unplugging the vacuum pump connector. You can also try unplugging one by one various sensors to see if the pcm resets.
The ECU in a computer/ on line is for 1999, yours is year 2000?? Will work??=)I have an issue with my 1998 Plymouth Voyager, 2.4 litre, cooling fans don't go on?? Already changed cooling fan relay, cooling temp. sensor, and even new fans, nothing!!?? Seems to me, there is no signal from PCM/ECU coming to turn fans on, power and grounds are fine?? Could it be bad PCM/ECU?? Otherwise van works fine, AC even works fine??? Need some help here, how do I test PCM/ECU??? Thanks=)
My dash brake light stays on. My gauges jump dramatically. Would you think or recommend I change out the ignition rear axel sensor as well as the dash board cluster and the computer board?
How old is the battery? I have a bunch of different Dodges ranging from 95 Intrepid to 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan. Some friends had a 2000 Durango and my lil sis had an 02. All the Dodges I've owned or been near start doing weird electronic shit when the battery is done or almost done (or if they have really corroded positive or ground connections). I recently got my 07 Caravan. It's gauges would jump all over the place and lights would flicker and do weird crap. The battery was not good and I had to keep jumping it. New battery fixed all the weird electronic issues. Friend's 00 Durango had all kinds of weird electronic issues. AC would click on and off and the radio only worked when it wanted to. New battery fixed it! Lights, turn signals, and gauges worked sporadically on my wife's 95 Intrepid. Cleaning up the ground connection on the battery fixed all the electronic issues!
Do you still have the 2000 Durango? I'm currently looking for another 1. I have a 1998, but would like a 1999 or 2000. The 1 you have here is a great color with those rims. Well just reply back. I'm getting ready to replace my ECM in my 1998 Durango. Just disconnected the battery cables & waiting 30 minutes before I remove & install.
all those wire connectors need to have silicone / gasket sealer sqweezed into each end ...helps keep moisture from corroding the wires ana causing a break.. .
I have a 02 dodge Dakota sport and just replaced our ECM. Now the truck just completely shut down on me. It would not start for nothing. So of course we checked it ourselves and had to take it to the mechanic. $300 for the ecm off eBay and $50 to put it in not bad!
so my 1999 v8 5.9 dodge durango has recently started this random stalling issue. Car will start and drive them it'll stall and, odometer will blink 4 times and display no bus,followed by check engine light then secuirty then gauges will drop and gas light comes on. I've tried running the car waiting for it to stall listening for noises and nothing has stood out, I've tried wiggling wires to see if there loose or triggering it no luck. I've replaced tps,map sensor,crankshaft sensor. I've tried moving around the auto shutdown relay and fuel pump relay. I even bought a brand new ecm with no luck. the car turns on and runs fine but after x amount of mins of running/driving it will stall and repeat this. I'm guessing when it gets to a certain temp . Any ideas or opinions I would appreciate.
the ecm was one of the first things I replaced with no luck but ... Update think i found issue!: so after a month 1/2 of diagnosing this issue I found the problem. After stalling and no bus being diaplayed with other lights. I wiggled The pigtail conector coming out of the ecm closest to firewall (black). When I did this I heard a relay click, I checked the Dash and lights were gone,cranked it fired up. Repeated this 10x and corrected it everytime. the black ecm pigtail connector has a bad connection as I can not only make the car start wiggling it but make it shut off.
I also have a 99 Durango. 5.9 and have been having trouble for the pass 6 months with it stalling. I've replaced the speed sensor. crankshaft. ripped out my alarm system because someone said they might have put it in wrong. replaced relays. everything and it still shuts off after about 20 minutes. I let it cool off for 10-20 minutes starts right back up. did you ever get yours fixed?
I also have a 99 Durango. 5.9 and have been having trouble for the pass 6 months with it stalling. I've replaced the speed sensor. crankshaft. ripped out my alarm system because someone said they might have put it in wrong. replaced relays. everything and it still shuts off after about 20 minutes. I let it cool off for 10-20 minutes starts right back up. did you ever get yours fixed?
Were your kids playin Gta5? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 i love that game too!!! Lol, me and my son play alot! ... nice video my man very useful information sorry just couldn't help but notice the children playing that LOL that's priceless, that game is awesome
I ordered an ECM from the website for a Dodge Durango 2003 and just as they said plug and play its a bit pricey $300 vs $1200 from a dealer. I purchased from another place and it was a waste of $60.
"turns out the leak detection pump was bad and pulls 12v directly from the pcm. the high load caused the pcm to overheat and shut down". WTF is a leak detection pump and where is is located ? I just replaced the crank sensor and it ran smoother and longer but stalled again.
I have a 2000 dodge durango 5.9l SLT but mines black and I have an issue where on a hot day it'll run maybe 30 mins then just due and take forever to start back up sometimes would it be a bad pcm? wanna know for sure before I drop 200 on one and it not fix the issue
More than likely your ecm I know Im 11 months late. I got same year and model with a 5.9. I had a hell of a time trouble shooting my truck would do the same thing shut off after about half hour of running when it got over 80 degrees outside. During the winter it would run fine no problems. I took it to a few shops trying to figure out what was wrong each one had there own theory. I replaced relays the distributor cap coil pack plugs and wires fuel pressure regulator and it kept shutting off i forgot to mention Everytime it did this I would wait about 10 15 minutes and it would start back up. After learning that my generation of Durango's have a pretty common problem with the circuit boards in the ecms getting hair line fractures I was pretty sure that that was my problem. Only deal now was a new ecm cost $476 an had to pay a shop $150 to program/flash it alot of money to spend and not be 100% sure it would fix it. So I went to my local junkyard and paid 20 for one I put it in and my truck ran great no more shutting off it idled alot smoother only problem was none of my gauges worked so I dl an app that's told me how fast I was going an rode like that for a few weeks until I had the money to buy a new one and get it programmed I haven't had any problems since I hope this helps
Don't like soldiering on vehicles ive noticed more issues with arcs of burnt wiring even with soldier. Crimping is better then heat shrinking after is a safe bet.
Loved your video, it help me immensely... But your hurting yourself everytime that you complain about that right side... So pray on it, and it will get better, your not the only one with injuries... I just dont complain about mines.. God Bless....
ok so my fuel pump and radio and a couple other things has a parasitic draw. i left the battery cables off and it was fixed for a short time then started draining the battery again. is that my ecm/pcm. 98 dakota 3.9l
Mine does the same thing dakota 4.7l 4x4. I ordered an ecm from that site he mentioned and it should be here in a few days. Reply to this comment so I can find it and let you know if it works.
I pull ECM from pick n pull , I look to match the numbers and it worked great, didn’t need to reprogram at all , it is over a year an still working fine!
by the power steering pump and by the ignition coil. the harness wraps around the motor and the heat melts the cheap insulation, causing the shit to arc, and ground, causing NO BUS or just tons of gremlins.
Im using the fancy plastic that comes with fancy ipa beer and the such to wedge the harness away from the heat of the engine, I havnt had an issue for months. Its a cheap and easy way to avoid having to rewire. Let me know, take pics, vids, share and long live good folk who want to help !!
Crimping is better for cars. Solder doesn't handle heat as well as it is a low-melting metal. The best connectors are the single-ended ones (the white ones).
I have a 98 Durango magnum motor ran fine 5/6 months ago when I parked it out back of my house , now when I finally went to start it up ,I charged the battery and put Fresh fuel in it and Checked all other fluids ,,,,everything ,but all it will do is turn over just fine but won’t start at all ?????
I got a TCM (Transmission Control Module) from these guys for my 02 Grand Caravan and it's working great! Aamco wanted $600 to put one in. Dodge wanted $1000. I got the TCM from them and put it in myself for $170. That was 3 months ago. So far so good!
I have a 99 Durango an I had for 3 yrs an it started doin same shit wen hot replaced reman ECM ran great 2 weeks started same shit got another an now 2 yrs later now doin it again now gets super hot so I'm prob gonna make it good an then sell or trade in it's actually not an expensive at all for a repair like this every free yrs but I have left arm paralyzed an I have a broken my neck 3 times an my back once so it prob one easiest fix I could do on a truck I know how he feels doin shit with one arm I have been for last 10 yrs after I slowly got sum feeling in my upper body after 3rd an I hope to God last broken neck cuz it's a pain itln the ass so I have been waiting to get the reman ECU AGAIN! Lol an swap out an try again see how long it will last if I do keep it? If I do I will just use for hunting an camping truck not a daily driver or fix an giv to my daughter? She lost reverse in her truck an can't afford to buy new an her husband isnt.. well.. he's not a able! So sad I told her I'd helphin but I can't lift in an out of truck with my injuries I have done many repairs on my own. Shit but he's 28 an no physical problems I built houses for 12 yrs with my L-5 broke in half an after my first c-2 hangmans fracture an then 5 months later on oil rig hit in head an broke c-5-6 an fused n still built houses an everything else I did before but after shattered c-4 into 7 pieces an blew out disks from c-3-c-7 paralyzed for months an now I am as good as I will get actually I'm 44 now so I'm slowly getting worse so I know how it is to do shit with severe injuries I had a cabover camper fall an crush my shoulder an I was journeyman plumber for city Yakima an I still went to work not sure how a shoulder injury would prevent someone to crimp wires together I did huge plumbing jobs with crushed shoulder broken ribs an one of the dumbass operators hit me in hear with backhoe bucket knocked me out few mins got up cleaned blood off so I could see wrap my head with shop towels an still finished day so I'm wondering did u hav ur arm reatatched? Just wondering wat ur shoulder had to do with wire crimping? Sorry not trying b a dick just wondering is all?
Don't be fooled by that must be programmed riff Raff man. PURE BS. As long as you get a replacement ECM with the same options, it'll work just fine. It's a 2000 not a brand new vehicle. It's the BODY computer that must match your interior options and if you use the Dodge keyless entry if equipped than they must program the keyfobs to the BCM. I have a 2001 Dakota 3.9 sport and can use ANY engine computer from 1998-2003. Dakota, Durango as well as ram 1500 with a 3.9 although I have been told the v8 ECM will also work. The most important thing to remember is that they moved the TCM or PCM inside the ECM so you have to get an automatic vs automatic and so forth. But yeah a good matched junkyard unit will be just fine. A hell of alot cheaper as well.😁
All Computer Resource, huh? Yeah, I ordered an ECM for my 1998 Dakota from them. The first one they sent me was junk from the start-- the truck wouldn't even start after I installed it, so I reinstalled and used the original while they shipped me another one. The second one they sent me was great... for about three months. Then it started exhibiting the same behavior as the original, randomly stalling, usually in the worst possible situations. I went to O'Reilly and picked one up, even though it was $150 more than the one from All Computer Resource and I'd have to pay somebody about $75 more to flash it. A year and a half later, it still works great. There's a lot more to the story, in regards to their horrendous customer service and refusal to honor their warranty... suffice it to say: you get what you pay for. I don't even know how ACR is still in business, but I'll never do business with them again and I'd obviously never recommend them.
Five hundred 20s The ECM I got from O'Reilly wasn't flashed, so I brought it to a local company that flashed it to my truck for 75 bucks. I don't know if O'Reilly offers pre-flashed ECMs at any of their locations, but none of my local locations do. They can't flash it without your VIN and mileage, and they don't do it at the store, so if they don't ask you for those when you first order it, it won't be flashed. Your only options are either a local auto electronics repair shop or a dealer. I can't speak to the cost of having it flashed at the dealer, but I do know they want several hundred more for an ECM than any of the aftermarkets.
Adam Ricker glendora dodge will....but talk to mechanics..dont talk to manager goes into long story as to why.you want it flashed .mechanics will just do it after you tell them.it needs it and like 80$
