What I have found to work well to get the snap style EEV's off is to let a little squirt of Kroil soak down through the gap while I finish getting panels off for inspection. What I've found is that if you can get that driver to twist free at all, it will eventually come off with a little persuasion. After the cleaning is done I'll wipe everything down with a rag and then coat the driver's surface with a fingertip-full of 100% silicone plumbers grease. Units I have done this too have looked pretty much untouched when I check them out on the next years inspection. Thanks for the informative content!
If no 21 mode is used the bolt on ones must have the pin retracted into the body before reinstalling. (Factory new replacement parts are already.) You do this by temporarily switching the blue and yellow wires and turning the unit on for no more than 15 seconds x 3 times on and off. This reverse polarization winds the pin In. If you do no do this you run the risk of the extended motorized pin slipping off the valve seat and jamming down the side possibly puncturing the metal bellows. Make sure to put wires back in proper place when completing job
@@MechanicalPros can you guys do a video on service checker data analysis please. What to look for, maybe scenarios like over charge, under charged, poor oil return. That would be great if it is possible. Thank you for your efforts
I have questions on eev. I took out the eev bolt type. I found dirty and i tried to clean it out the black greese or oily stuff at the head. But it cant be screwed it back the EEV due to the head is came out. How can i make the pin or head go inside so that i can screw it back?
Thanks for the fantastic videos! For an VRV indoor unit, you mention looking at the evaporator thermistor readings to diagnose a failing EEV. Would a normal liquid side temp reading and an almost room temp gas side reading (plus lack of cooling) hint at a failing EEV that's refusing to open (assuming airflow is all fine)? EEV coil resistance is OK, so is there any additional test that can isolate the EEV as the culprit over other issues?
@@MechanicalPros Thanks for the reply! You guys are awesome! Sadly the "Indoor unit status" on the wired remote doesn't show anything for this unit (it's an older VRV III indoor unit, not sure that's the reason), so I can't see the EEV pulse count. Hadn't seen EEV Mate - looks neat. I tested again with another unit running and the liquid-side temp drops quickly to 0-5 deg (Celsius). Where it''s get wonky is after that - gas side drops slowly but then shows odd values like 5 liquid / 5 gas before jumping instantly to 18 deg. Sometimes I lower on gas side than liquid side. I am now suspecting the gas-side thermistor. Every time a new detective story!
@@MechanicalPros The gas-side sensor was certainly dreaming values up and the EEV looked and measured resistance alright but seems to have worn out (it's a bolt-on, which I believe has gears inside). Much better now with new thermistor (can those be any harder to reach?) and EEV. EEV opens to 800-900 clicks to maintain ~ 6*C superheat. According to the Daikin folks, EEV motors and thermistors fail to the point where on any fan coil unit > 6 years old they just replace them all before spending extra time diagnosing... thanks again for the advice!
@@MechanicalPros my service checker can’t connect it don’t know why. But is a heat pump I put on cooling is fine, but when I put on heating it become a vacuum
