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How to Diagnose & Fix a Short Circuit in Brass Locomotives (Tips and Tricks!) 

Trainman440
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Hey guys! Today I'll be showing some tips and tricks in locating and eliminating short circuits from brass steam locomotives. I point out various locations where shorts might occur from my many years of working with brass. Hope this helps!
A far rarer but still possible problem is the failing insulation on the wheel itself. I just completed the repair process and documented it here: cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/2922...

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25 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 13   
@EScott2U
@EScott2U Месяц назад
Great vid, helped me sort out a newly acquired old Balboa narrow gauge 2-8-0 in short order! THANK YOU!
@trainman440
@trainman440 Месяц назад
Glad I was able to help!
@officialpennsyjoe
@officialpennsyjoe 2 года назад
Definitely will use this guide to diagnose the problem of my Q1.
@trainman440
@trainman440 2 года назад
yea, hopefully that engine runs once again!
@gabrielperez8864
@gabrielperez8864 2 года назад
Are all steam locos the same as far as the "pick-up" side? My two are Sunsets.
@trainman440
@trainman440 2 года назад
nope! Check to see the red insulation on the wheels to find out which side is insulated. Or see which side of the tender is insulated and the engine drivers should be the opposite side of that. Good luck!
@rickyl7231
@rickyl7231 10 месяцев назад
Completely unrelated to the video but what is your opinion on the Bowser PRR steam locomotive kits, specifically the post 1990s ones with the die cast boiler and super detail kits? They seem to be able to be close to brass in terms of detail if one is willing to put the time and work in.
@trainman440
@trainman440 10 месяцев назад
The brass details were fantastic and would bring the model detail wise to brass levels. Most kits where the tooling was made by bowser, and john english were great. (PRR A5, B6, M1). However the much older penn line tooling (later bought by bowser) looks crude even with the updated brass details. Things like the wider driver spacing, the thick running boards, and other proportional problems makes them stand out. Like the I1sa, E6, H10, and K4 kits. Those I would avoid.
@trainman440
@trainman440 10 месяцев назад
But my personal opinion is, (without sounding like a brass snob), for most of thoese models there are better, cheaper options. The H10 or E6, the gem brass variants can be had for like $100 - $125, and is well worth that money. The PFM united brass K4 is also around the same price. Only some of those kits imo are worth the money and time, and also dont have better alternatives. Certain kits like the A5 or B6 are highly recommended by me, not only cause there are not many alternatives (gem and sunset prestige made sorta cheap brass but still pricy), but also those things are HEFTY, and being diecast, I think theyre a highly desirable weighty model, which brass/RTR cannot provide.
@johnuthus
@johnuthus 7 месяцев назад
so my shorts arent suppose to spark violently
@trainman440
@trainman440 7 месяцев назад
yes lol, sparking is bad D:
@oldmanflyer1
@oldmanflyer1 Год назад
your camara went out of focus, and you talk to fast and not clearly.
@trainman440
@trainman440 Год назад
Youre right I tend to talk fast. Sorry about that, I just get excited. And haha yea the phone camera I used to record the video has a tendency of doing that :/
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