I strongly recommend you watch this video right to the end ! Many engineers mistakenly replace the wrong parts thinking this is stuck in a boot loop , when in fact it isn't . Don't make a costly mistake and replace the wrong item !!
Hi Michael. My goodness you are truly a golden find on YouYube. I live in a small rural town doing tech repair work. I'm sick of throwing out modern TV's because there's no service manuals...I've already fixed two based on the advice you've given in your videos. Many thanks. Your technical knowledge and old skool fault-finding methodology is gold! Terry, New Zealand.
@@michaeldranfield7140 my Samsung 2021 "crystal" tv lasts around 7 to 10 minutes before restarting over and over and only showing the initial logo screen with orange patterns/lines. It needs several hours unplugged from the wall so it can stay on 7 to 10 minutes before the eternal reboot. What could be the problem?
Hi James. What chip are you wanting to replace? If it's a surface mount component then you'll need a hot air type solder station etc and probably a microscope as well...
Thanks for posting. Helped me diagnose. Ultimately found that the issue was a short with one of the connectors. Used the scotch tape method and now it’s fixed!
Great find to add to this I have a Samsung LN46 that has been through all the bad cap problems on the power board but one day go stuck in the boot loop like this but would eventually stay on after about 20 tries. Turned out it was a few of those yellow tantalum caps on the voltage regulators that power the main board on the 3 volt side. It was a tricky find but after replacing the tv is still working. I know samsung also has a "fault" circuit on the old ccfl back lit models as if a voltage is present it will shut down. Keep up the good work.
I did a video covering this exact problem on another make of set a few weeks ago, if the decoupling capacitors on the input and output of the 3 terminal regulators dry up the regulator bursts into oscillation, so making a simple voltage measurement is no good as the output voltage will be correct but high frequency oscillations are present on the output which can upset the operation of microcontrollers .
@@likenew6851 Its quite a while ago now so I cant remember exactly which set it was but it was an older set , poss a Grundig if you have a look through my videos .
Blimey Michael still repairing then, I used to occasionally pop into your old shop in Buxton town centre. I gave up on TV repairs when LED came out. I remember video recorders first coming out and also witnessed their demise, we are the only generation to see this. Even the “Television” magazine went years ago. Wonder where my stock of PL509 and PY500A valves went 😀
Yep, still repairing , I was born to repair TV sets , been doing it now for over 40 years , I got rid of the town centre shop after 17 years and moved to a 1700 sq feet industrial unit on the outskirts of town ,people don't go in shops anymore . Still got all my TV valves , I use them mainly now for building valve amplifiers and guess what , I still repair video recorders !!!
@@michaeldranfield7140 Michael, it would be great if you could also teach us repairs and tricks for video recorders. VHS and Beta are still alive! Thanks for sharing your great knowledge to younger generations: it's unvaluable.
Michael thank you very much for your video, I managed to solve the bootloop of my Samsung Q80R TV. I was hopeless and was counting on losing the TV. The repair cost is very high due to the need to replace the display, as informed by the manufacturer.
Here in England we have access to new display panels but they are very expensive and no one ever has one fitted , I was quoted over £1500 last week for just a 58 inch panel but the customer could buy a brand new TV for less that that .
Thank you for posting this video, your info was exactly what I needed to diagnose a faulty panned on my 70" samsung tv that failed with the same symptoms. You rock!
Since this video was posted quite a while ago I have had quite a few samsung sets in all with the same problem so it looks to be a lot more common than I thought.
I've just come across this exact same problem on a Samsung 55" TV. I went through the typical tests including taping off some of the lines on those ribbon cables and the TV would do as you have shown in this video. But, further testing (many hours of testing) showed that on the circuit board at the bottom of the screen (the one attached to the screen that runs the width of the screen) has some diode packs. One of these diode packs was getting hot. I removed the device from the circuit board and now the TV works fine. I found two shorts within the diode pack itself. Pins 1 and 10 were shorted and pins 5 and 6 were shorted. Without the schematics (and since I didn't want to try to reverse engineer it) I can only make assumptions on what these diode packs did. Since the TV works without it, I assume it's some sort of back EMF prevention as it also appears to be installed with reverse polarity. But I could be wrong about this. The part number on it is 4268H but I could not find any datasheet for it. It measures about 0.5mm x 2mm. So far, the TV is working without any apparent problems but only time will tell if missing this part will impact something else in the future. At the moment, I'm keeping an eye out for a similar TV for salvage to replace the part with. I hope to put out a video regarding this repair soon. But it's on a very long To-Do list.
Could you somehow send or post a pic of what your diode looks like? I have a 50 inch Samsung that I think had the same problem. But don’t see any diodes.
@@karentaveren8865 I'm not sure how to post a picture via comments, but I will tell you exactly where to look. At the bottom of the screen, there is a circuit board strip, usually split in two. It is permanently attached to the screen. At the end of each strip (not in the center of the screen) you will see two or three very small IC chips grouped together. These are smaller than a grain of rice. They will have 8 or 10 terminals depending on the model. If you don't have any equipment to tell how hot they are getting, just gently touch each one with your finger tip. But be careful because if it is bad, it will get very hot. Carefully remove the bad chip. The TV will work without this chip, but it was put there for a reason so I can't say if removing it will cause other damage later on. You're doing this at your own risk. Remember, they don't look like a typical diode. They are a diode pack of 4 or 5 depending on the model. And smaller than a grain of rice. I hope this helps you.
Thanks i was able to fix a Samsung 55" TV by doing this exact thing! I already changed the PSU thinking it was power related but after stumbling across this video all is well now! 2 lines were broken and now the TV stays on!
I first came across this a few years ago , I had some brand new Samsung sets with cracked screens that were boot looping and at the time I thought it was strange but then I realised they were boot looping because the screen was cracked and not because there was a fault on the main board .
Once you've got an image, you should go into the service menu, to svc, to info and then to error counter. On newer sets there is an item " TCON PMIC COUNT". This shows if the bootloop is/was due to a fault in the pmic, which is the power management IC.
@@thor_ If you don't have a service remote control just use an ordinary infrared Samsung remote control. Connect your TV to the mains, switch it off (standby mode). Then press: info settings mute power The TV will turn on and and it may take a few seconds and the start page of the service menu will pop up.
You have done well this is a clock signal which is tells to the tele to not turn on, if you mask it with kapton tape you can bypass it The line is appeared as maybe you need to cover less legs on the connector, I personally would play with the pin masking to see if it can be better
Aw man, thanks for the video. I did found the pin at fault and fixed the boot loop, but.. i think i damaged the led panel while opening the tv up, cos it doesnt show anything anymore, but it does turn on now normally. Lol. Time for a new tv, i guess. Cheers!
You might not have damaged the LCD panel at all, I did a set last week using this method and what happened was I used too thicker plastic which damaged the connector socket , after this it only worked when you pushed down on the connector, so if you use too thick plastic it distorts the socket . .
I don't know why screens are so expensive, I know they contain very rare chemicals but these are recoverable from the old panel, we didn't have any problem in the Earley days regunning CRT s at sensible cost.
I have fully fixed that fault before. I did order a new tuner board which fixed it . And later on found out there was nothing wrong with the existing tuner. It's been a few years now. I like the blocking of some connections on t -con and it proved the TV detects a fault and hence shut down
Awesome video! Saved me a lot of debugging time :) I have the same issue and trying to figure whether to scrap it or not. Do you think checking for capacitors shorts on the back of the LCD board should find damaged caps that might explain this? It's gonna be a shame to chuck the whole TV :(
Theres only 2 things on that board to go faulty, either a shorted MLCC cap of the chip on film which is no replaceable without highly specialized equipment so definatley worth a look before scrapping .
pin 18 from the top of the ribbon cable is the one at least on my tv that was causing it, was able to cover just pin 18 with some scotch tape and it seemed to do the trick, there are a small amount of lines at the top left corner, but they're not that noticeable, you could probably even lift that pin off of the ribbon cable connecter if you really wanted, how I found it was, I did his trick with some scotch tape and kept moving down pin by pin until the tv wouldn’t turn on again, then I moved one pin up and then it would work, so it had to be that pin, which was pin 18, it may be a different pin on yours, but give it a try before you give up on your tv
Nice job John and Michael. I have a un65nu6900fxza Samsung. There are two ribbon cables. I tried the inferior cable. I tried your tape method, first starting with 5 pin width piece, creating a boundry, then a 3 width piece, and then a 1 to wean down and isolate the pin. For me it was the bottom ribbon cable, 19th pin from the bottom. Since isolating one pin rather than a group there is less screen lacing. I still have two small lines horizontally across the screen. 20th pin covered= no power, 18th pin covered= boot then turns off. Tips are to place scotch tape, cut as small as you can width and tear. For counting, use paper and cover gradually pulling down to count because it is hard to eyeball it without losing count.
These newer panels are utter crap, as you say, a brand new set is cheaper than a replacement screen. My 74 year old Pye set is still producing a great picture on it's original Mullard tube! So much for progress.......
Yes, these things are hard pushed to get 74 months of decent service out of. Imagine if your telly could talk.. "No Ally Pally signal found, check your H band 1 aerial connection please"
My Samsung TV is the first led back-lit 40 inch from 2013. Still working as good as the day I got it. No software updates, no Internet connection, just freeview, just as I like it.
pin 18 from the top of the ribbon cable is the one at least on my tv that was causing it, was able to cover just pin 18 with some scotch tape and it seemed to do the trick, there are a small amount of lines at the top left corner, but they're not that noticeable, you could probably even lift that pin off of the ribbon cable connecter if you really wanted, how I found it was, I did his trick with some scotch tape and kept moving down pin by pin until the tv wouldn’t turn on again, then I moved one pin up and then it would work, so it had to be that pin, which was pin 18, it may be a different pin on yours, but give it a try before you give up on your tv
My 58 inch is one with only one ribbon so u would think easier to find and isolate the pin. Found it tho and it lasted for like 3 days then went out again. Haven't been able to isolate the correct pin or pins again. Inget close and it comes on w sound and picture but after like 1 or 2 mins max screen goes then shuts off. My question is do I need to actually isolate it down to only covering one pin? I might have too many covered. I was covering 3 at a time like another person recommended
A not so smart TV. Last thing I want is a TV whinging on about no HDMI connections. Give me a thick TV (monitor). tiny computer, keyboard and mouse and I'm happy. Thanks for the video.
Not smart at all as you say, and it's a curved set which is just a flat piece of glass sitting in a curved metal back which are prone to cracking down the middle for no reason.
Sometimes, electronics have their ways of messing with our head, I have the same 55-inch series with yours. Mine will work for 12minutes before going into boot loop, I checked the 2 ribbon connectors one after the other, until I finally replaced the mainboard. I still hope to fix the faulty mainboard because it has Bluetooth but the new board does not.
My samsung tv is about 4 years old and today it started having this problem would it be better to just buy a new one? im quite handy with electronics but if i see a dead pixel on a screen im going insane lol Anyway thanks for this video you teached me some new stuff :)
Hi Michael. Great video, without it I was goin crazy to solve, just ordered a new mb...to try... Following this procedure finally I can see tv on and watch all programs ok. there're some vertical lines on the right side (left watching to TV). At this point, is it possible to repair the chip (s) inside the connectors to panel? Mb Bn41 02568b Kant Model. ✌🏻
It is possible to repair the LCD panel but I dont know of anyone in England who has the equipment to do this , take a look on youtube for a video on COF replacement .
Hello! Can you advise me on the type of mount you are using to service the TV? I have a small shop and this would be a great addition. You do great work, my friend. Liked + subscribed.
Hi Mr. Michael, thank you for your very descriptive instructional video. I managed to find the set of faulty pins and applied scotch tape over them and the boot loop stopped. But I'm afraid to tell you that although the backlight is on, there's no picture to be seen. When I press the buttons, the sounds seem to be in place without any issue. Any way to troubleshoot this problem? Thanks
Not really without a circuit diagram , only thing I can suggest is check all the LCD bias voltages , if one is missing it could be a leaky MLCC capacitor on the LCD panel or at worst the LCD panel itself .
Great video - thank you! I just managed to turn my Samsung tv on purely based on this video. The question would be, should I keep the paper patch in? I am assuming it won’t ignite? Also, I have no lines on the tv screen.
@michaeldranfield7140 Yes this is great trick, very much helpful. same question to me as well, can we keep the plastic paper in? It will not burn out right?
It's their typical fault, and yes, most of those models. I've got several of them like that and there's one more to know. They have COFs yes, but they have as well chips on the glass. The COF you can bond, but you won't fix the chip in the glass. This technique what you've shown works, but not all the time. In some of the cases, you end up with completely no picture no matter what you're trying. And, that's it ;).
at the end of the day though this is just a way of diagnosing the fault , not a cure , a cure would be a new screen but its a way of diagnosing without buying a new main board only to find you have the same problem .
@@michaeldranfield7140 iF there's a COF or driver board fault, you don't need to buy a new screen :). All you have to do is to check all the shorts and voltages which are going to the display like VCC, VDD, AVDD(buck and boost converters), VGH, VGL. At least those. If you can understand than, you can bring back to life many TVs :). On my YT channel/here, I don't show a lot of fixes, but I do show some. My customers most of the time if there's a bigger fault, they just donate, or sell me cheap their TVs. That's why, many faults here end up for spare parts, or, I fix it off the recording in my spare time, and resell them. But, even if you can fix them, some will end up with some 1-pixel lines. It's OK to watch it, but they are and not all customers when see it want them back. So, worth mentioning to them before the fix ;).
Mr. MD: i would like to upload the pin-outs/wiring diagram for the UN65MU800DFXZA family, 49/55/65". i hope you would be able to decipher some of the signals that cause these wacky symptoms, thanks in advance for your expertise.
Im from the uk and my tv is UE55TU8500UXXU and the fix worked My av board only as one ribbon to the one in the video and also where you put the tape mine was on the right side about 15 or so pins from the end and i only used about 2 to 3 mm of tape also with no lines picture is fine :-)
@@michaeldranfield7140 ye we need to find a tv service manual for one of these models because it seems tho most of the latest samsungs have the same problem
@@mrgittings8355 unfortunately there is no circuit diagrams any longer as your not suppose to do any component level fault finding, the correct procedure is just to replace the whole board that is faulty.
Bit of a longshot / wishful thinking on my part, but could something like a series diode allow the screen to work and prevent the 'feedback' which is causing the reboot issue
Loving this TV workshop.... subscribed to your channel 👍 Could you try to diagnose = 2 year old TCL 75C815K 75 Inch QLED 4K Ultra HD Android TV " just out of warranty... This week the TV set automatically updated itself and it installed software update rebooting itself all automatically Perfectly faultless before automatically updating itself but now when scanning digital TV channels via the plugged in antenna port and finding 500 + digital tv & radio channels it won't save them and returns error message signal unavailable 🤦♂️ Other TV perfect on same antenna 🤔 Tried 7-8 times rebooting and software update but error message= signal unavailable.... TV was faultless before the software updating 😱
If the set worked until you received a software update it sounds like software corruption , I dont know the brand TCL so your best bet may be ringing the manufactures first .
@@michaeldranfield7140 TCL tech dept sent me software link , downloaded it on to usb stick ( boot stick) TV reboot itself from USB stick... ALL GOOD now 🤞 Cheers 👍
You can also do it by sellotape or scotch tape at the actual controller on tape points. I was able to isolate the actual singular pin that was at fault but without replacing them theres no way to sort it. It is such a simple fault I dont know why Samsung dont make the parts repairable. $1200 for a new panel because of a 50 cent part.
I had a most puzzling experience with a samsung qe65q60tau. I was experiencing the same boot loop problem and opened it up and tried diagnosing the issue. PSU was fine, all voltages correct. Disconnected the signal cable to the main board, boots up properly like in your video. Reconnecting lead to the bootloop again. I then disconnect one third of the display and it booted properly. However later i disconnected the signal cable again and the boot loop happens now without the display even being attached! I wish i watched this video before i ordered a replacement mainboard...
Kann ich nur jeden empfehlen der das Problem hat mit dem bootloop beim Samsung TV egal ob Q LED oder LED funktioniert zu 100%. Mein Fernseher läuft wieder so.. thank you have a nice day i love it.
Checking in with a UN50TU8000... same problem with a cycling screen that stops when you disconnect the ribbon cable. (Or leave it unplugged overnight). Seems like it might be a heat related issue, if it works after being unplugged a few hours.
Hi Michael, I have a Samsung UN46D6003 tv and can only switch the tv on and off by plugging in and unplugging the power cord. The tv is stuck on one channel, at one volume, can't access any of the menus on the tv, etc. None of the settings can be accessed either with a remote (even with changing the batteries on the remote - I tried using 3 different Samsung remotes, including the remote that came with the tv) or by pressing the 'buttons' on the tv. When the remote buttons are pressed the remote sensor light on the tv flashes rapidly like it's supposed to. I also did the cell phone camera check on the remotes and the 'signal' lights on them work as well. Does anyone know what the problem is an any advice on what part needs to be changed? Thanks.
Got a 70" Samsung TV doing the same thing. Found that if I cover pin 12 on the top ribbon cable the TV will turn on, but 3/4 of the screen has very dull color. If I leave the TV on, disconnect the ribbon to remove the tape, and reconnect the ribbon, the tv reboots and the picture is perfect. If I turn it off and back on, it returns to the same loop and I have to start the process all over.
Same here. While the tv is plugged in I can pull the bottom left ribbon wait for the light to turn on, the sound to become active and then place the ribbon back on and its a perfect picture. My guess is at start up it does a diagnostic and doesn't pass so it reboots again. Taking the ribbon out allows it to not identify a fault and continues to boot open. Once the diagnostic is done I plug in the ribbon and it's game time.
i hope you can help me i found out that when i pull one of the ribbons out (no matter whether the upper or lower one), the tv starts and there is sound but NO PICTURE. when both ribbons are pluggeg at the same time, the tv turns off/on again. when i cover the upper pins of one of the ribbons, no matter which one, i can plugg in both ribbons, but there is still no picture. what can i do?
Thanks for the video, great info, I can't isolate 1 pin only, it's too small, i was able to isolate pins 15,16 and 17, tv stays on now, but no picture, back light and sound working, any idea how to fix this, thank you
Remove the ribbons from the bottom of the tv while rebooting loop is repeating. This got the audio on but still no picture but when I reconnected the ribbon at the bottom left and tv powered on the full crisp picture came back. I was able to go through and reset everything. But as soon as I turned off tv and turned back on it went back to reboot loop. I'm going to try the paper trick next but otherwise I think it's a main board.
Thanks to your video the booting stopped. I even have sound but no picture. I only covered a few PINs but don't have a picture at all. But that probably means I have to get rid of the TV. Correct?
great vido, im having the same problem, quick question though, I disconnected the ribbon cables and sure enough the tv came on but obviously with no picture. so I unplugged the ribbon cable one at a time, and in each instance the tv came on again with no picture. if we have a problem with the lower portion can it not typically be repaired?
in short , yes it is possible to repair the LCD panel but you need highly specialised and no doubt mega expensive equipment , have a look on youtube , do a search for COF Bonding to see how the COF chips are replaced .
Unfortunately the company I bought this from 10 years ago has now closed down, they were called Charles Hyde and Son, maybe if I can get some space and time one day I will make one myself.
I have taped a couple of pins and it has stopped the reboot loop. The TV now has picture and sound but the picture is faint and white (lacking any colour) do you reckon making the tape smaller will resolve this?
That's exactly what happened with my TV exactly right now, I noticed some dead horizontal lines but actually I didn't care, since I almost never saw them while watching something or playing videogames, that's sucks, a lot of TVs that I had aways ended up having some stupid kind of problem like this
So what you do here when you've grasped a general area of where on the ribbon cable the fault lies, you trim down the plastic bit (use kaptop tape instead) and go pin for pin. You end up with vertical lines because you are blocking more data lines than necessary. You only need to remove the short-circuited pin from the equation nothing else.
@@JesusChrist-sx1lf yes of course but in fact I wonder if there is a real solution ? because having lines on the screen or a dull image is not really a solution for me
@@Furoprior971 The solution is the tape trick on the ribbon cable.. You will loose some of the color palette on either right or left side screen but lines will be removed as long as the short circuited pins are the datalines. And in order to minimize the damage, after you've found out where the shorts are you trim the tape so you don't cover unnecessary many pins only those that are needed.
@@JesusChrist-sx1lf Okay, I'll try that first and see. Anyway, we don't find any spare parts in Qled (QE75Q60R) Thank you very much for your quick response 🙂
Yes it is a crying same but I think it’s the way that the makers of this sort of TV would like it to be hence no service components and manuals and think this put a lot of tv engineers out of a job as I was one of them very sad
Absolutely right, all done just to sell you a new TV, back in the 80s I use to fit regunned tubes and prices were sensible, now a new LCD panel cost more than the whole TV cost to buy.
Yes I replaced c.r.t’s in t.v’s data terminals computer monitors- but then It stopped dead because a guarantee given on new monitors Same with tv’s Now the general feeling is it is bad for the environment to scrap items and not repair!! But that was the death nail for the tv repair industry 🥲
Same here 30 year career trashed because the things are now so cheap to replace even though ultra unreliable, something needs to be done as the waste now is unsustainable
What do you think about my Samsung UE70TU7175U please ? I have startup sound, backlight ok, no bootloop, light stays on but I have no image or menu. I think it can not be ckv problem because my TV is not rebooting can you confirm that ? Eeprom issue maybe ? Thanks for your help 👍
i hope you can help me i found out that when i pull one of the ribbons out (no matter whether the upper or lower one), the tv starts and there is sound but NO PICTURE. when both ribbons are pluggeg at the same time, the tv turns off/on again. when i cover the upper pins of one of the ribbons, no matter which one, i can plugg in both ribbons, but there is still no picture. what can i do??
Good old days when a fist 👊 fixed the telly. God times, dont think that works on flat screens. And yea, it did often fix a TV acting up, beating the shit out of it 😄
I just got a similar problem on my 18 month old Samsung Q60A 50 inch TV. A week ago some intermittent horizontal lines appeared at the base of the screen and they just went away after one hour. Today the TV got stuck in a boot loop while watching. I have 30 more months of extended warranty and I will use it, but this is very disappointing. It was on for about ten hours daily on "3 - brightness" and "26 - contrast" so pretty low settings. Do you know any other brand that is more reliable than this? I mean this set didn't even make it past its 2 year standard warranty...
I dont know of any brand of set that is reliable these days , everything is made as cheap as possible and more often or not fails just out of warranty and then parts are so expensive no one has them repaired or parts are no longer available, of course no one will tell you this when you go to buy a new set .
The most common and well known stuck in boot loop problem in samsung tv's are the 5500 series smart tv's that the nand flash chip is corrupted and needs replacement with new one having preloaded the firmware.Newer models have huge differences between them even if have the same problem the diagnosis is totally different and chances to repair 'em are very limited.Finally a work without success is pain.
I have had good success with cooling the nand then re loading software with USB stick, I do have the nand software somewhere but my programmer broke down and I never replaced it.
Hi. I have a 55” 8000 series 4k qled tv. Power supply is working but when i connect the mainboard it starts to get stuck in a loop. Even when the display cables are disconnected. Is it a nand fault in my case?
Of course yes, I have had a few of the earlier sets with bad nand, just removing the ribbons to the LCD panel will soon confirm if it's main board problem or LCD panel.
I need help with my tv Boot loop issue. A friend showed me the engineer menu. As he was backing out mDe a change we dint know and now looping logo..goes blank logo blank...10 second loop
My TV only shows 2 LEDs and boot loops again and again.. nothing on the screen, no sound and no backlights. Do you have any idea what I could try? I cant find this problem on the internet.
unplug the main board and switch on again , if the backlights now stay on its on the main board , if they still flash its either a psu problem or Highley likely the backlights themselves are faulty .
I managed to fix the tv by tapng off one of the pins on the flex cable that connects to the two left LCD driver boards. However now there is a horizontal line across the screen. Is this something that can be fixed by covering more pin or there is not much can be done? Thanks
If its a faulty COF than yes it can be fixed but you would have to find someone with the specialist equipment to do this job, if its a fault within the LCD glass itself then replacement of the panel is the only cure .
I have the same issue in samsung ue55nu6035k stuck in boot loop. When I remove one of two flat cable I hear the sound of start and when I remove another flat cable I hear the sound of start 🤔. I need to know which flat cable and which pins must I covered?? Thanks
I have a frame 3.0 samsung, does the same thing, when i cool off the heat sink, the tv starts up and works fine for a few minutes, so the main cpu chip overheats and does the endless reboot.... in this video, is there a way to remove the heat sink? can the heat sink be reset, or is it stuck to the chip?? pls do a video, would be fun to see.
i got a new mb, with the new one boots up into a black screen, put old one in, and it works till it heats up, so i got a new bad mb....what a headache...
Thanks for sharing this, I've been working on my samsung tv for a while(UA55NU7100). It rebooted itself randomly after I watched a few seconds. I'd disconnected DC power from tv's mainboard and the TV backlight is turning on very fine. So I think the reboot problem of my tv may be related to mainboard. Could you figure out, which part of the mainboard I would furthermore check?. Thank You in advance.
My Samsung (non-smart) tv randomly turns off and just keeps going into a boot loop. I heard the sound that its turning on and then right off. I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that did not do anything. I tried different outlets and tried holding down the power button but that did not do anything. Last night I left it unplugged for about an hour which yielded some great results. The tv turned on and stayed on for over an hour without any HDMI,USB's plugged into it. I left the TV unplugged overnight and this morning it turned back on without any issues. After about 20 minutes it went back into a boot loop. I also confirmed there are no sleep settings or power saver settings. Anything else I could try before tossing it in the trash.
@@michaeldranfield7140 Im having his problem but with a newer tv, my tv is from 2021 and it happened a few months after the 2022 update. It alowed me to update to the latest software and the same keeps happening: a few minutes on, then the eternal reboot and then unplugged for several hours so it can stay on for a few more minutes.
Hello from Gibraltar Michael . I have a Samsung TV model UE43RU7105. When I power on with remote the power light flashes a couple of times and remains solid but with no picture appearing. At the same time I'm hearing a squeacking noise from middle of the main board ( which i replaced with same result) After randomly disconnecting and reconnecting various connections basically not knowing what the hell I'm doing, I'd press the remote and the screen suddenly powers on perfectly, and will stay on indefinitely till i power off. When i go back later to power on, the problem starts all over again. Any ideas out there to help me out.
THIS I might say is a psu issue. I had my father's 55?inch samsung tv and before it had fully died, he had reported having to press the power button a bunch of times to make it come on, and that was indeed the case, but eventually it would no longer come on, which I REALLY suspect to be a power supply issue, as I've literally seen the display produce a whole-ass functioning image. Try a new power supply for shits n giggles. the one for mine was like $20. get one with a return option tho lol
the schematics that i have are the pin-outs with the signal descriptions for the 49/55/65/75, UN_ _MU..., need to 'share' with the community, all Main brd./SMPS connections, along with the One Connect.
The biggest fault, in my humble opinion, is that monotonous 'robovoice'. I couldn't live with a telly like that, even if it were otherwise working perfectly! So, is that terminal then? Or can it be fixed?
It could be fixed by fitting a new LCD panel but as a very general guide a new panel would cost about £10 per inch so a 60 inch set would be looking at £600 for the screen plus fitting and no one ever pays this kind of money for a repair .
The UN65MU800DFXZA that was doing the 'turn signal' blink, i resolved by taping pins 4-15 on the far left on the address bar/strip, the left hand side of the ribbon/flex cable, these turned out to be the clock signals & couple others, no lines, perfect picture, it's ready to go.
QN65Q60 .. TV boots (without ftc cable or 1/2 ftc cable) and when isolate pins on the left ftc cable image shows … so new board ordered and hope its not panel😭
Have a QE50Q60TAU and have tried replacing the two boards with no success. Removed the single ribbon cable (doesn't have 2 like the one in this video) the TV turns on but still no screen. Have tried isolating the pins as shown, but no success as of yet.
My screen doesnt have any lines. Sometimes it worka fine for like 45mins and then it reboots again will stay on for some more time and then eventually the reboots get more frequent till its stuck in a loop again. Is there anything to be done? Its been 3 days
my Samsung 2021 "crystal" tv lasts around 7 to 10 minutes before restarting over and over and only showing the initial logo screen with orange patterns/lines. It needs several hours unplugged from the wall so it can stay on 7 to 10 minutes before the eternal reboot. What could be the problem?
I have a Samsung NeoQled 8K A800 that has the boot loop issue. After a long time off, it will turn on for +-10 min it starts flickering, the at 15 minutes it goes into boot loop as if it has heated up. It will turn back on with just the backlights but blank screen
Hi Team, My Samsung is clicking and won’t turn on. I’ve replaced both the power source and the motherboard and it still is clicking. The clicking only stops when the wifi module is disconnected. Could this module cause my tv to be shorting causing the clicking? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes , there was a Samsung model of set where the WI FI pcb suffered from an internal short but I cant remember which model it was , the chances is you have a short on the supply rail , I would have a look for short circuit SMD decoupling cap before ordering a new module .