mate best vid, all the other posts iv seen are to drawn out with crap, you were simple straight to the point and well demonstrated, cheers mate mate from OZ
+Luke T Hey Luke,Thanks for the kind words. We're glad that you find our videos helpful. If there is something specific that you want us to cover, feel free to reach out, and we'll see if we can sneak your request into the schedule. Thanks again for watching our videos. You're a subscriber to our channel, right?
+BikeBandit Heck Yes i am. i have a 2003 yz250 that is showing some age on the pipe and cylander cover. What do you guysdo to keep your bikes shinning like they're brand new?
+Luke T LT,Thanks for subscribing. We appreciate the support. As far as keeping your bike looking tops, there are a couple of easy things that can be done. For the pipe itself, we use a green Scotch-Brite pad to keep it shiny. Use the pad to scrub off the tarnish, and then use a light coating of WD-40 to slow down the tarnish from coming back. Use the WD-40 after each time you wash it. Not much to do on the cylinder cover really. As far as keeping your plastics looking great, we're big fans of both Maxima SC1 and Motorex Silicone Spray. Both add a nice shine to your plastics. Don't use it on your seat though. BB.com
I pump the breaks hold it down and have a buddy open the bleeder valve to release pressure for a sec then tighten. U bleed the systen that way and also dont lose stopping power and end up with a mushy weak break pedal or lever. This seems more of a break system flush then anything else.
I think there's a lot of little things that should be said in this video that this guy doesn't say because he knows this process very well. I would also give instructions as if I don't have a hose with a one way check valve.
I installed a new brake line today and followed the exact steps in this video , but my brakes aren't working at all , the lever is so soft and there's no dampens to the action ?
same problem man I had a seized bolt on my caliber and had to torch it I removed the brake line and no matter how much bleeding I do I can't get the pressure fully back in it whats the trick can someone please help
Great bid buddy, I've done all the steps and have no pressure at all now, how do I fix this? Sorry for the ridiculous question I'm new to bikes. Thanks mate hope to hear from you soon
+Kevin Oneill Hey Kevin,It's almost impossible for us to diagnose your bike with us over here, and you over there, but we'll try to walk you through this as best we can. So, a couple questions...what's the bike, what year, are we talking about the front or the rear brake, are you doing this solo or with a buddy, and are you doing this with or without a brake bleeding tool like a Mighty-Vac? Let's start with that and then we'll keep this dialogue going until your machine is dialed in.
I have a 1986 honda 350x it of course has all around hydrolic brakes, I let it sit over winter and now the front brake does nothing, you can pull the lever to the hand grip with no effort and it does nothing
You can do this without a one way valve just pull the brake in release the nipple on caliper do up the nipple realise the brake and keep doing that untill all air has gone simple
and now my front brake works fine when my bike stops (runs 0 km/h) but if i push it a bit for like 3km/h speed i press it and it wont work, so would that help?
1-i washed my bike and the front brakes became weak and wont stop 2-if i change the brake fluid will it fix 3-can i use any brake fluid or do i have to buy some for a dirt bike
birdylover100 1. Washing the bike won't compromise your brakes. There is some other issue.2. Can't hurt to keep fresh fluid in there. No telling if that will fix your problem though.3. Look in your manual, or on top of the brake fluid cover. It should say there.Perhaps there is a bit of rust on your rotor after the washing, and thus the pads are not getting a solid bite. Brakes are crucial for safety and performance, and fixing this problem is paramount. Go about testing your brakes in a slow and controlled environment.
great video, I've got an issue with my front brake. I'll be riding for 5-10 minutes and all of a sudden the front brake will seize up. I can normally release the bleed the brakes and they'll be fine but then will seize up again. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the comment +Andy Doyle. Our goal is to make simple to follow how-to videos so that our customers/viewers know how to perform some of the most basic tasks themselves. since you took the time to watch our video and leave a comment, please enjoy 5% off your next purchase at BikeBandit.com by entering code RU-vid5 at checkout (std. exclusions apply). Also be sure to subscribe to our channel for even more how-to videos and product reviews being released daily.
+Xx † xX If you mean specific by brand, no. If you mean using the specific fluid that your bike's manual calls for, yes. Sometimes we go up to a higher rating, just to get that higher boiling point, as some of us here are trackday attendees, but for the most part, we stick to what is written in the manual.Thanks for the question, and for watching our videos. You remembered to subscribe, right? BB.com!
I can't get all the pressure back in my lever I can squeeze it into the bar with a firm squeeze it never use to be that soft yea the bike still stops but I lost an inch of pull forsake how can I restore this
Likely you've still got some residual air in the brake line. my recommendation is to use a vaccum bleeder and run a good amount of fluid through it, or continue this method until your brake feel comes back.
what you also could do is get a tube thats the same sice at the nipple on the caliper then get a ketchupbottle which has a nipple too, not these heinz bottles but i hope you know what i mean. and then you put the tube on the nipple on the ketchup bottle and just tape it and there you have a cheap way too. this can also be re used ;)
I am installing a new brake line, as I pump my lever the fluid isnt visibly going down in my reservoir (i am opening and closing the nipple on the brake caliper) my brake lever is not getting any stiffer could it be that i have air in the system?
+Justin Gentry be sure to keep the rubber nipple on the bleeder valve. its handy to keep a few extra in your tool box if you notice one has fallen off.
i basically crashed on a jump, it was like that: i jumped, then i landed from about 3 feet high on the jump then i lost the control of the bike but i had the control of the throttle, so i almost saved myself from falling but i rode down the left side of the jump and the was rocks and stuff so i made it too through the big rocks and i was trying to get back on the jump the same way i came down from the jump but then when i turned around my front brake worked fine but if i tried to get up it didnt
Could have bent a pin on your caliper slightly so that pad or caliper itself is hanging up. I would just remove your caliper and replace pins and pads, check for function and go.
Motion Pro only sells the one bleeder used in this video. To answer your question though, the TTR 125 has drum brakes F & R so it's not necessary UNLESS you have an "L" model, which in that case the bleeder will work perfect for it.
Hi Mike, can you elaborate for us please? Is it the lever that's tight? Are the brakes themselves grabby? Is the rear tire locking up without much pressure? etc. etc. thank you!
BikeBandit hi thanks for a response. My front brake, I can pull it with one finger and I will go over the handlebars. To me that is to tight. I have bled again. Seems to be to Soft. I do have stopping power through.
You bled, they were too tight, then you bled again, and now they're too soft? Provided your machine is a late model machine, having what seems to be a sensitive front brake is typical and normal. Basically, any late model bike regardless of style, if you grab a handful, grab it hard and quick, you're gonna dive the front end and potentially lose control. Late model bikes have 70% of their braking force in the front end. You definitely don't want them soft. Dot 3 and 4, just refers to boiling point of the fluid. Depending on the year make and model of the bike, you can have a mild adjustment point to level throw, which will be located at the lever itself, but there won't be much adjustment to sensitivity. If the bike is older, check caliper function, pad type (consider an organic pad for less grab) brake lines, plugged bleeder valves etc. Bear in mind, a tight front brake is something you want, provided its not locked up. It may just be a personal preference for you to become comfortable with.
SwiftRoost Hey SR,Why not? Screw head stripped? Depending on what the problem is, will depend on what direction we tell you to go? Please advise. Thanks.
Nope, the screw head is not stripped... Its just extremely tight and dont really know what i can get them off with without stripping the heads of them.
SwiftRoost Gotcha. If the heads are not stripped, you should be able to add a couple drops of penetrating oil on top, and let it sit for a bit. A little goes a long way when it comes to penetrating oil, so no need to saturate them. Even go so far as to apply a little a couple days in a row, then try it. Sometimes what also helps break them free is to place the screwdriver in the threads and tap the top of the screwdriver, all while applying downward pressure and turning at the same time. Keep us posted please.
+glsnowdirtCO Because the worst thing that can happen to you when bleeding your brakes is getting air in the lines. The check valves makes it so brake fluid comes out, and no air gets back in.
+Abdel Moussaten Hey AM, Did you actually bleed the system of air? If not, that air can be compressed within the system, and that's why you're not getting any rear braking force. You must bleed the air out. Hope this helps. Keep us posted and we'll try to help you out as best we can. Thanks for watching our videos. You're a subscriber, right? Ride safe. BB.com
+Abdel Moussaten AM, Without personally seeing the bike, we won't be able to diagnose the problem. This sounds like you might need to get a mechanic involved. A hydraulic system has many components, but the process of how it works is quite easy. Curious though, what were you trying to do when all of this started? Change brake pads, replace lines, replace fluid, bleed the system?
+Amanda Williamson Hey AW,You know, living in San Diego is tough. It's November now, and today will be sunny and 72...another perfect day for flip-flops. Thanks for watching our videos, your keen eye, and great fashion sense.You're a subscriber to our channel, right?
