Get the best performance possible without having to order fancy bulbs, batteries, or other parts. I will show you how to take it apart, clean all the necessary terminals and connections, and put it back together at home.
Wow a 9 year old video kept me from throwing away my favorite traveling light 🔦 I have a 20year old 6D cell that rides under the passengers seat for road side emergencies. It started turning off while in use, it never occurred to me to take it apart and clean it 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️…🙏 Thank you for saving my trusted traveling companion 👍😁👍
Thank You for this in depth tutorial on the disassembly and reassembly of the Maglite switch. Had one that the batteries swelled up in and got stuck and corroded. Had to beat the batteries out of it then clean up the inside. Put it all back together with your help and now it is working fine again. I will never put regular batteries in my Maglite ever again.
I've found that lubricating the threads at both ends with vaseline makes the entire light work more smoothly, possibly helps to seal the o-rings as well. Also, when installing the battery, many people drop the cells vertically into the tube, hitting the switch assembly with a bang. I think it's probably better to place the tube nearly horizontally when installing the cells. This eliminates the bang of battery installation.
I load it horizontally and being a fanatic of Resident Evil, it feels like I'm loading some shells to go after the Toxic spiders or that Brainiac creature😗
It's entirely possible that Vaseline, being petroleum, will damage the O rings. O rings are made with dozens of different materials. Each has different qualities. Use silicone grease from the plumbing department.
Great video. I appreciate all of the work you did to make this happen, and I have no doubt that you've helped a lot of people. But there are issues with this video, issues that if fixed, could help more people with this subject. Here are some suggestions: 1. You should look the video over before you publish it. Many times your camera position was too low, and many times you have intricate details which are blurry because you didn't take time to let the camera focus. 2. You skipped a lot of steps. For instance, that metal tail looking piece that goes in and connects to the bottom of the bulb housing, you just quickly mentioned it, put it in with the camera being too low for us to see it, and just moved on. That part has been the biggest headache I've had with the rebuild so far, and I had to go elsewhere to figure it out. 3. Your camera is way too low. Many of the operations you were doing, as I said in the previous point, were below the camera, so the person viewing couldn't see all of it. 4. Overall, thank you for this video, it got me 80% of the way, which is not something I'm ungrateful for. Thanks.
Thank you very much for this detailed video. I had a couple Mag Lights with very corroded stuck batteries. I finally got the batteries out and cleaned them up best I could, but one still didn't work.This video showed me how to totally take it apart and clean it. Both are working now and I've switched to Lithium Batteries that aren't supposed to leak. Thanks again. Much appreciated!
@2:08 You guessed 9/64 for the tool size. I believe it was 5/64, as I used a 2mm and it worked beautifully. That's the part I needed, to understand where and how to remove the core of the light. For mine, there was a bit of dust covering the contact from the positive end of the battery to the switch. I cleaned that up and I had to bend the center part of the v-shaped clips next to the switch so that they would make better contact with the round part of the switch. Now the light stays on steady and no more flickering or unexpectedly turning off. Great video, except for the focus issues that others have mentioned. I believe the auto focus was focused on the table in the background. It happens. There are some settings you may be able to make to have more depth in the field of focus, or you can have the work closer to the background so that they focus together. Still, for the purposes of the video, it met my expectations in giving me the information that I was looking for. The information given is direct and to the point.
Great video. Some of us who have the necessary tools can learn from this video. Of course, it is best to just work on Maglites you can get from a yard sale. Something you forgot to cover in the video, though, is that it is best to lube the threads with a little bit of lubricant before re-assembling the flashlight---it can save the threads.
Thanks for providing this video & information. I have an LED version that had stopped working after excessive rain and dropped into shallow stream. After watching this video, though I'd accidently ordered the incandescent switch kit, it came with the correct tool; I was able to disassemble confidently. Everything was dry, but contacts in the switch had corroded. A little cleanup and confident reassembly, everything was right as (NO) rain, back in service. TVM
Wow I just followed this guide with great success. I could tell something was'nt right with my old 3dcell, it would cut out when I would focus and when working the light strength would fluctuate between dim/brighter or if I switched on/off the brightness would vary. First I partly disassembled and found the spring that pushes the bulb housing was weak so I stretched that a bit, it cured my cutouts but I still had the weak beam issues. Took it ALL apart and polished all the contacts with fine auto sandpaper I even polished the bulb. When I put it all back together and turned it on I was shocked at how bright and solid my beam was. Like I got a new flashlight! Thanks dude.
I had a 3 D mag suffer battery leakage as well. I tried to get it apart, but couldn't figure out how to get the button assembly out. Thanks for showing the allen wrench trick. I never would have found this on my own. Long story short, I used my hydraulic shop press to gently push out the electrical assembly and corroded battery. Works great once it was cleaned. Thanks.
Though it was not the best focus at times, this is the best, most detailed video on the subject I found. Other videos lacked attention to detail and supplied information that was just plain wrong. I was getting ready to throw out a 4D cell Mag Light; it wouldn't work at all. This video changed my luck. The flashlight I was going to trash is now the brightest light I have. Thanks, "Nate Sand"! "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy. 👍 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Five Star video!
Yeah this was in my earlier days of RU-vid and unfortunately once I cleaned it I couldn't unclean it. I didn't realize the focus was bad until it was too late.
Hola amigo, te escribo desde Buenos Aires, Argentina, muchisimas gracias por mostrar como desarmar la Maglite, recientemente un amigo tenia una que no encendia, y gracias a tu video pude desarmarla y limpiarla y volver a armarla y ahora funciona, se ve que tenia algo sucio, muchisimas gracias por compartir tu tiempo y conocimiento con nosotros saludos!!
Nate, Thanks for the careful video. When you said watch you don't lose the screw, and explained it was the negative connection- I re-assembled but didn't take care to fasten the screw tight, and then the lightbulb went on. Works now- I hate chucking perfectly good gear if it's repairable at only my labour cost. There is one thing I'd add: if the batteries are corroded, you can't drop the awitch out the bottom. But the switch is stopped from going forward by a circlip, which is easy to remove and replace. With the switch out the top, stuck batteries can be driven out and the barrel cleaned up. Thanks again. Alasdair
man, thanks, just thanks :) I've held onto my old 4D cell mag for 8 years now while it's acting up and barely ever working, and figured I'd give this a shot, it's like new again! :D hellz yeah. I'll confess, it took me about an hour, but it was worth it.
Never would have thought of that hexkey screw to remove switch assembly. My 4-cell model also had a steel ring to unscrew on top of the switch, removed through the top with narrow snap ring pliers (I used my long needle nose pliers). Switch did not easily slide out--had to use a 15-inch piece of 1" PVC pipe to push/tap out from bottom. It had some sort of sandy, gritty corrosion all about the outside. Bad positive contact was the problem: more gritty black stuff than battery acid corrosion: cleaned up with Oven cleaner (pure lye), then fine wire brush, then all lubed with fine coat of Liquid Wrench to reassemble & reinstall. works great. Thanks!
Very informative video. You show some things on the flashlight that other videos don't explain. I like that. My only problem was the picture was a little blurry but that didn't take anything away from your information of the procedure. Thank You sir, I appreciate it!!!
sctodd22 Yup, I planned on making a new video with a clear picture but the bag with this light got stolen so I no longer had the light. Still want to make a new video with another light though.
Great video! I have the older 4 D model with the allan key. Switch fell out the back into a number of pieces while removing to clean the contacts. It would have been difficult to get back together without your video or impossible. Also good explanation on how the switch actually works, especially how the pos. and neg. current travels. I just got an x-cape cap and executive style bezel, as well as the 325 lumen upgrade, and a glass lens from Malkoff. Puts out a very nice white light and still focuses well. Good run time as a stock mag, but a little expensive for the upgrade. I did not want more lumens than that as I don't need a search light for everyday use or for emergencies in the vehicle. A stock incandescent mag still would work just fine as intended for those purposes. Thanks again, Frank
Brilliant vid very user friendly. Mine has not worked for over a year. Found in garage watched your vid and works like new. Did not even realise there was a spare bulb in the base , Once again Thanks...
Thanks, you saved me from getting a made in (somewhere other than USA) flashlight, because I heard that when you send one in for repair you will probably get a new one back and mine is a older one that was still "made in USA"
rv42travel Fixing the quality stuff is well worth the effort. Plus you can learn a few things in the process.Glad to hear you would rather make the effort than just buy something cheap.
I've had good luck getting Mags working after removing stuck batteries. After doing whatever you have to do to get the batteries out, keep working on getting as much stuck stuff out it as you can. Use a drill (start w/ small bit and work up), scraper of some kind, wire brush, small wire wheel, etc. When you get as much junk out as you can, and removed as many of the parts as you can, fill the barrel with vinegar. Coke works, too. Let soak for awhile, and occasionally run a brush or wire wheel up through it, then add some fresh vinegar/coke and soak it more if needed. When it looks clear, rinse it good with hot water, dry it off, then let it air dry completely. Before you start reinstalling parts, shoot a quick shot of silicon lube or WD-40 through the barrel, and lightly wipe it out. Re-assemble, and good as new.
Instead of using 220 grit sandpaper to clean the metal parts, use a "3M non-scratch Scotch-Brite" scouring pad to polish the metal. The scouring pad won't leave little pieces of grit on the parts like sandpaper and the pad won't scratch metal parts like sandpaper does.
Great video. My problem is that I cannot get the battery end cap off. It is fused on. I’ve tried putting it in a vise and using channel lock pliers and it will not budge. Just order a new one (old one). They’re pretty cheap these days.
only suggestion I have would be to apply a little di-electric grease on contacts after cleaning them. this will slow future corrosion and prolong the life of your cleaning efforts. I haven't torn mine down yet, but plan to grease it when I do.
Just FYI, i have 2 newer Maglite D-Cell flashlights (within the last 6 months) and both of them have STAR WRENCH FITTINGS, NOT ALLEN WRENCH FITTINGS. I'm not 100% sure of the size yet, but i had to break 1 to find out. Kept wondering why no allen key i had would fit and loosen the set screw, now i know. Hope this helps save you some grief.
Can't tell if the one I bought [Maglite 2D Xenon] from Home Depot, 2/25/15, has star wrench fittings but it does have a compression ring on the bulb side of the housing for the switch that I have been unable to remove yet.
Alric Wilhelm You two gentlemen saved me from killing myself... This flashlight is a bitch to dissemble. Did you end up hammering the danged thing out?
the narrative was great but the up close was bad i know u tried but in the future concentrate more or on the quality i would have enjoyed it so much more good luck
If you have some burst batteries that are really stuck then just releasing the screw won't be enough. The front stop for the switch is an internal c clip. You can pry it out of its groove with a small screw driver. This allows you to pull the switch out the front. Once you have an empty tube with just the batteries in it, you can get really aggressive with a drift or press.
i dont know how you were able to remove the c-clip. i can just barely see it under the switch housing and i tried using a miniature flat blade screwdriver but doesnt seem to be a way to access it. I wish this was one of the older models that allowed removal of the switch housing using a spanner wrench. The geniuses at maglite had to install that damn c-clip. So now i still have batteries jambed inside the tube.
Thanks for the informative disassembly and assembly of the switch. There was no info on the updated bulb and the assembly. Would you, therefore please let’s have detail on that?
Not only should you not lose the pointed setscrew in the nut, but be VERY careful not to break the nut free from the think metal strip which conducts the current from the negative side of the housing / battery, to the bulb. I barely touched mine, and the nut, which was apparently spot welded to the strip, broke free. Once it is loose, forget ever having any reliable current flow.
All I wanted to know is if you remove the bulb socket /switch assembly, do you gain access to the top of the batteries so you could drive them out with a dowel and hammer.
i know i am late to this, but . . . NEVER sand any terminal ends. you will remove the conductive coating . to clean use white vinegar and baking soda . . just a little bit of both. other than that . .. good job. i have a internal battery spring i have to re-seat .
Buen dia disculpen alguien save que medida es la llave que mete para desatonillar el boton que va dentro de la lampara lo que pasa es de que no se si es Torx o Hexagonal gracias por su atencion y el video esta al 100%
One more thing... Most of these parts are PLATED for maximum conductivity. If you take sandpaper to the metal strip, nut, etc., you will be down to bare steel, which DOES NOT conduct current well. Much better to use a LUBRICATING contact cleaner on the parts than sandpaper, or anything abrasive.. DO NOT USE a non lubricating contact cleaner. Once the lubricant is removed from the contacts, the plating will corrode fast. li Electronics engineering technician with 36 years experience.
Nice video Nick, thank you very much! I removed the button cover it’s a plastic assembly and I don’t see an Allen screw. Any ideas how to get the bulb assembly out? I’m trying to clean the positive contact it’s a bit corroded. It’s a 20 year old (it’s funny it looks like brand-new!) Maglite 3x 3 Cell batteries. In the meantime I scraped it a bit with a lawn screwdriver and got it working but would like to take it apart and clean properly. Can I convert the incandescent bulb assembly to LED with one of those little adapters?
Nate Sand I was using your video to disassemble my 3D Maglite so I can thoroughly clean the battery tube. To eliminate water damaging the switch I want to break the Maglite down to just the aluminum battery tube and then clean the entire battery tube. All was good until I got to the using the Allen wrench to remove the switch assembly. I was not able to break loose the switch assembly even with the Allen screw backed out. There is a white scale along the entire battery tube but with some coaxing I was able remove the batteries but I think there may be some scale that prevents me from sliding the switch assembly out the back of the battery. I have not tried even tapping on the switch assembly but I think I may have to do that next. Any thoughts? A second question; once I get the switch out I intend to clean the entire battery tube and I am looking for any thoughts as to a good cleaning solution. I tried water and baking soda on the lower end of the battery tube and after a lot of elbow grease it did begin to remove the white scale. Any ideas would be appreciated and I want to thank you for your efforts in making this video. Videos like yours make repair jobs for amateur DIYers like me much easier and more successful. Thank You!
Thanks for this video Dashcam! Even after I was all done it still would not work, so I got out my meter and it had ground all the way down the poop-shoot to the bulb holder and SO did the positive. Grrr, so I took out the new led bulb and put in the spare down in the sponge. Voila! Cheap chinese LEDs Grrrr. Now I know how to service the thing backwards and forward though! LOL thank you very much.
Thanks for zapping me eyes, twice early on, should focus and think about what the viewer is seeing. It is not an action scene. Haha. Start from the beginning. Can't get the end cap off.
You sure it is a 9/64 setscrew? I've inserted the allen wrench and it appears it is unscrewing, does it have to come completely out? After doing so I push the assembly from both ends and it switch assembly doesn't move, any suggestions.
The screw doesn't come out, just back it off a couple of turns. If the housing does not move it probably has some corrosion, or dirt, holding it back. Take the bulb out, and gently tap the housing backward using something to spread the load across where the bulb projects from.
Very informative and interesting video but can't figure out why the lamp goes out when I screw on the end cap. How is it loosing the ground contact by screwing it more than 3 threads tight. Making me crazy.
My maglight 2d is from the 80s and there is a screw down plastic washer on the front end of the switch assembly, I have undone it and the Allen screw in the switch but nothings moving even if I bang it with a hammer and screwdriver, any ideas?
9/64 won't even fit in the first hole on my 5 D cell Maglite. 5/64 goes through but then falls all the way through to bottom out. No happy medium in between. Wanted to get ti loose so I could push against it to help push out the corroded batteries but looks like it's a lost cause.
there are several videos on removing stuck corroded batteries. in the past I have used a 1/4" steel rod (one end ground to a slope o 1" to sharp end), also a 3/8" long drill to help remove the pieces. can be a very tough job, set up a schedule or dates to remove, replace, check batteries. regards